AC for a Burro

[sharpstick]

I just got a '99 wide body Burro 14. It needs an AC. I think roof mounted is best if possible. Pricey, around $600 or so. I understand many FG campers have weak roofs. This one seems to have a mystery structure just inside the door to the left. Some kind of reinforcing ribs with a flat square area on the ceiling. It looks to me like it was engineered in as support for an optional AC. I'll take a pic and post in the morning.
Otherwise, I've heard of cheap window units mounted in holes in the wall fore or aft, up high, or under the bed(with a remote), or in storage closets somehow. Seems like the air flow would suffer cooped up like that.
So, why are cheap window shakers little more than a hundred bucks, while "RV" special models are $600?
I'm in Florida, so need maximum cooling. I heard someone say 8000btus is minumum for hot Florida weather. Most of the roof units I've seen so far are 13,500btus. Is that too much?

[Gerry]

My 79 Boler Voyager 13 footer, came with a Coleman AC unit on it when I baught it and the weight was too much for the roof and made a sag in it.
At the time there were loads of threads on here showing how to make supporting ribs on the inside, but lowering the ceiling was not an idea I wanted to entertain, but since the "Lady Bug" now is in Maine and not Florida, we've just went with a Fantastic Fan unit.
At the time I think it had a 1200 unit in it and was told by my local dealer that a 1000 would have been a better choice for a trailer so small with the weight of the unit being lower.
This was in the year 2000 so now they may even make lighter units.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by sharpstick

So, why are cheap window shakers little more than a hundred bucks, while "RV" special models are $600?
I'm in Florida, so need maximum cooling. I heard someone say 8000btus is minumum for hot Florida weather. Most of the roof units I've seen so far are 13,500btus. Is that too much?

Biggest reason for the price difference......one says RV same goes for marine equipment. The same $100 window unit at a big box store would be 3 times that at an RV store. The 13.5 btu units are pretty much the standard size in the RV market. IMHO, a 13.5 is way to big for your TT, something around 9k would work fine. I've got a 9.2 on my SD17 and it does fine in 120* dry desert heat which I power with a Honda 2000 that only runs at half throttle when the ACs cooling.

[Gerry]

The AC unit had a seperate #12 stranded wire extention cord and didn't use any trailer wireing to run it.
The reason I say this, is,from buying a microwave/convection oven for my larger RV that it was important to find one that was under 1100 watt because the aluminum wireing in the trailer was only rated to handle that.
It may or may not be an issue in your case but just so you know and be careful your not going to overload and over heat any wires in the walls of the trailer..

[Nelsonex]

I was considering a portable A/C because I wanted to keep my trailer in my garage (7' 10" clearance). The Portable A/Cs have a flexible duct that requires outside venting and they can get in the way. I could also use the portable in my workshop. In the end, I ordered a new 16' Casita with an A/C mounted on the front.

[sharpstick]

Model SENL-09CD, 9kbtu mini split. $600 on Amazon. I also considered Pioneer, Innova but Senville had highest ratings.
I plan to do the physical install myself but call an AC service pro to hook up the refrigerant plumbing.
I haven't figured out how to mount it yet. Battery and propane tank are on the tongue. Maybe I'll move the battery to the back bumper. Probably not a good place for the propane, though.
I considered the Climateright, easier to install, but it's only 5kbtu and not an inverter. It also has to be unplugged and stored in the tow vehicle.
Now if I can just find a flat spot on the wall that is 28x11.