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Old 05-07-2015, 07:21 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by frank_a View Post
Nice job Carol. Very professional looking.



Frank
Thanks I did the install but can't take credit for the cleaver idea as others here had done it before me.

A detailed explanation as to how to do it can be found on the Casita Forum.
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Old 05-13-2015, 06:50 PM   #42
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Here's what I did. Ordered a set of 4 stainless steel clasps through Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1), installed them tonight, one on each side, both ends. This will allow me to easily wash out the tube, should need be, or access it from either end.



Busy through the entire day till late tomorrow, but tomorrow morning before work I will see if there's space to fit underneath the battery box instead of on top of it. It might, but there's a solid gas line there that looks like it will nix that plan.

Soon as I figure that out and mount it, will share a pic.

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Old 05-14-2015, 12:08 PM   #43
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Well, no room at the inn for poor slinky. Gonna have to live on top of the battery box. If the battery box wasn't there, I might have been able to sling it underneath the chassis, but maybe not too. I think it will be fine her once it is bolted to the top of the battery cover (4 #8 stainless machine screws coming up into the slinky tube with lock nuts).



Now I have to figure out what I can store in the factory mounted slinky tube...

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Old 05-14-2015, 12:54 PM   #44
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Nice looking install Frank. Did you use two clips per end or just one? Do the end caps fit snug enough that one clip does the deed?

As to what to put in the old tube, we use tubes just like that on construction sites for plans, got any blueprints you need to store?
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Old 05-14-2015, 12:59 PM   #45
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Thanks Tim!

Two clips per end. One per end would not do it. It could also be hinged one side, clasped the other. I liked the idea of being able to remove both ends, and the package I got contained 4 clasps. Works great and a fairly easy install.

The only plans I have are in my pointy little head. I need to think of something to put in that old tube that would be of little value, but handy. Maybe gloves for the stinky slinky ops?

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Old 05-14-2015, 01:33 PM   #46
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I thought you were going to remove that old tube for appearance sake.
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Old 05-14-2015, 01:36 PM   #47
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I thought you were going to remove that old tube for appearance sake.
I wouldn't mind doing that Glenn if I could figure out a way to finish the 4 screw or rivet holes so it looked okay. Actually it is not a clean installation as it is, with silicone covering whatever the fasteners are.

I'm open to suggestion! Thanks,

Frank
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Old 05-14-2015, 01:56 PM   #48
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Snap-Caps over rivets or screws would work.
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Old 05-14-2015, 01:59 PM   #49
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Store your fishing poles or guns & ammo.... I can't think that many people would look for anything there but the stinky slinky😄


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Old 05-14-2015, 03:09 PM   #50
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Frank, you could do a patch, and gelcoat touchup. It would look like new.
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Old 05-14-2015, 05:04 PM   #51
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I used rivets and snap caps. looked good.

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Old 05-14-2015, 06:21 PM   #52
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Fill the holes with marine epoxy and then cover with bullet decals!
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Old 05-14-2015, 07:01 PM   #53
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Snap-Caps over rivets or screws would work.
Dave & Paula
Thats what I did when I took the one off my trailer.
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Old 05-15-2015, 02:19 PM   #54
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Got it done this afternoon (a break from doing lawn work). I did a lot of measuring before drilling these holes in the top of my battery box. My goal was to keep machine screw heads as far away from battery terminals as possible, and mount the slinky tube such that it did not touch either the trailer or the propane tank cover:



I used #8 stainless steel machine screws 1/2" long with star-washered nuts. I like using those kind of nuts with plastic stuff because you don't need a wrench to tighten them once started. I used the shortest screws I could get through the nuts.



You can sorta see clearances here. It's close to the trailer, but not touching.



And the final product, perfectly centered and mounted. I think it looks good, and is practical. Easy to access and both ends come off for washing.



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Old 05-15-2015, 02:39 PM   #55
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Looks good Frank. Nice job.

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Old 05-15-2015, 03:19 PM   #56
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Yeppers, looks great, Frank

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Old 05-15-2015, 05:08 PM   #57
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I use a wing nut. A through hole through the cap and a smaller hole to screw in to the post.

I also deform the bottom side of the cap, heating it over the stove and then bend it slightly inward. This provides a little pressure between the cap and post easily keeping the bottom in place.
I tried bolts with wing nuts solution, it doesn't work convenient for daily use. These caps fit perfect to 4" plastic posts and are great.

Camco No Insect RV Bumper Cap, 2 Count - Walmart.com
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Old 05-15-2015, 06:24 PM   #58
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So Frank as you know I am totally green at this trailering business so this may be a really stupid question. I have used the hose that was provided with my trailer and it seems to work OK, what am I missing???
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Old 05-15-2015, 06:29 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by Pat in Michigan View Post
So Frank as you know I am totally green at this trailering business so this may be a really stupid question. I have used the hose that was provided with my trailer and it seems to work OK, what am I missing???
Pat, if it works for you, that's fine. What works, works. I just wanted a more substantial system, no big deal. I also have an expanding leg thing that supports the hose while giving it slope (http://www.amazon.com/Camco-43041-Si...r+Hose+Support).

Frank
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Old 05-15-2015, 08:20 PM   #60
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Thanks Frank, I was just wondering if I should expect it to fall apart while I was using it.
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