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Old 11-30-2015, 04:44 PM   #21
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Name: Christopher
Trailer: U-Haul CT-13
Michigan
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POR 15 seems to be the consensus.

Looks like 1 gallon should cover the entire frame.

I'm going have the rust repair and sandblasting quoted by a few places. I'll also have them quote powercoating. I'm guessing the costs will be in the 500-1000 which is more than I want to spend. But we'll see...
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Old 12-02-2015, 10:26 AM   #22
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Can't wait to see the finished work, mild weather right now is in your favor
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Old 12-02-2015, 10:29 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4LDY View Post
Can't wait to see the finished work, mild weather right now is in your favor
The mild weather is awesome!

I just wish I had more time during the week to get a few quotes on the frame work! Likely I'll just get the frame welded at the rust points and prep+paint it myself.

Then I can get cranking on electrical!
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Old 12-10-2015, 07:38 PM   #24
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Glad to see a new U-hauler joining the club! Welcome Christopher. I am also in the FB club.
You have done a great job so far. We use stainless steel elevator bolts 1.5" long 1/4"thread and rubber washers on top in the frame to shell. Good luck, have fun.
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Old 01-06-2016, 06:42 PM   #25
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Looks like ur off to a great start cjwebber. I have a question for u check ur pm please.


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Old 01-15-2016, 07:57 AM   #26
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Well! I have the frame back!

I had it sandblased, welded, and primed.

I will still need to do a final coat on top the primer. I am not sure which paint to use. The primer on there now is "Self-Etching Primer"

Any suggestions?
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Old 01-15-2016, 08:34 AM   #27
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Christopher,
Nice to have a fresh foundation to build on, eh? Congratulations.

Lots of people like POR15... something very similar is Chassis Saver. Both available at auto parts stores or online. Chassis Saver is more reasonably priced.
I know Chassis Saver isn't particularly UV-protected, so any exposed to the sun need to be top-coated with something else. I think POR15 is similar. They're both tough, excellent products, and mostly aimed at frame work well under a vehicle.

So I think I'd change my earlier recommendation of Chassis Saver to plain, old-fashioned implement enamel from your local farm store. Usually this is Alkyd Enamel--nothing fancy, but inexpensive and fairly durable. For some extra durability, and slightly higher gloss, you can add "hardener" to it---that'll be available at the farm store, too. [Note: The hardener will likely contain isocyanates, so if you go that route, use a respirator and exhaust the room air for some time after you're done painting.......... NOT good to breathe that stuff.]
Even without the hardener, though, it's decent paint. You could put an extra coat on the tongue and front part of the frame, where the surface is more exposed to wear-n-tear.

My $.02-worth...... Best wishes on the project.
Gary
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Old 01-15-2016, 09:42 AM   #28
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IF you are going this far and removing the shell, sand blasting the frame painting with POR 15 or equivalent then why not powder coat the frame?

Yes a little "Mo Money" however you will have a very durable product AND the business that powder coats the frame will also do the sand blasting of the frame as a part of the powder coat expense.

I have always been concerned about on UHAUL trailers is the single rail from the frame to the coupler. I have seen several of these trailers with collapsed rails where the single rail from the coupler collapses at the front of the frame due to over loading at the front of the trailer.

Therefore my question:

Have you given any thought to adding triangulation (2 additional bars) from the front of the frame structure to the single coupler rail?
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Old 01-15-2016, 09:43 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintageracer View Post
IF you are going this far and removing the shell, sand blasting the frame then why not powder coat the frame?

Yes a little "Mo Money" however you will have a very durable product AND the business that powder coats the frame will also do the sand blasting of the frame as a part of the powder coat expense.
quote was near $1000 for the whole job with powder. I ended up at $600 with primer.

Decided to save the cash.
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Old 01-15-2016, 09:49 AM   #30
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WOW!

Powder coating is MUCH MORE expensive in Michigan than in Tennessee!!!!
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Old 01-15-2016, 09:57 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintageracer View Post
WOW!

Powder coating is MUCH MORE expensive in Michigan than in Tennessee!!!!
Probably should've gotten a few competing quotes - but thats alright.


I've got my frame and after a coat of frame paint, I can get to wiring!
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Old 04-17-2016, 06:23 PM   #32
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Now that winter is over, we are back at it again!

Unfortunately some surface rust appeared after the frame sat out over winter. It was fully wrapped in a tarp - but the elements had its way.

After a bit of cleaning, we decided to buy a can of Chassis Saver to give the frame a durable, rust-resistant coating. It wa$n't cheap but we are very happy with the results. Probably should've spring for powdercoating (AKA you were right, vintageracer)

We let the frame dry overnight and tackled remounting the shell today. It took a bit of effort to line everything up, but we finally got it lined up.

The elevator bolts & rubber spacers are installed, but I ran into trouble while tightening the nylon locking nuts. Most of the elevator bolts don't have a tight hole to keep them from spinning.

A few suggestions i've received:
  • Thread the nuts far enough so you can grab the threads with vice grips.
  • use a disc-cutter to create a slot on the top of the elevator bolt

I'll be tackling the bolts again later this week, so any wisdom is appreciated!
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Old 04-18-2016, 05:50 AM   #33
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Christopher,
I haven't done my own elevator-bolt replacement yet, so this advice is unproven, but here's a few thoughts:
[1] You could swap the current elevator bolts for ones with a pair of "barbs" at the perimeter of the head, designed to keep them from turning. That's the kind I purchased, which I HOPE will avoid the problem you currently face. But, of course, then you'd have to wait several more days for them to arrive, and spend some more bucks as well.
[2] There seems to be universal concern to seal every raw edge in the flooring you possibly can. I use 3M automotive seam-sealant for lots of things in my shop... it can be gotten in regular caulk-gun tubes. Messy like caulk straight from the tube, but air-cures overnight to a flexible, rubbery consistency that sticks well to almost anything. Could you glue the upper half of the bolt and head into the flooring, with the bolts well-seated in goo, and thereby hold them in place, while sealing up the edges of the holes in the floor at the same time? [and then install the nuts the next day, with the now-rubber sealant keeping them from turning]
[3] OR--double-nut the bolts on the underside. First with a generic-type nut that you could spin on easily and probably get to tighten right up without too much trouble..... followed by the nylock nut, to take care of the "locking" concerns.
My 2 cents' worth..........
Gary
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Old 04-18-2016, 06:44 AM   #34
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Gary -

This is all great information.

Can you tell me where you got the barbed bolts? I like that idea.

Also - I'll look into that sealant. Once I finish the bolts, I'll be cleaning and sealing!
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Old 04-18-2016, 04:00 PM   #35
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Christopher,
I couldn't find a record of what I paid, but did find the packing slip in the box with the bolts.
Ordered from Coastline, Inc... 1923 North Home St... Mishawaka, IN 46545... 574-204-2345
[July of 2015... boy, am I behind schedule!]
Item # BCCDB15SS... 1 package of 100 - 1.5" Stainless Deck Bolts.
Obviously, 100 was way more than needed... and now that I'm back in the house, I realize I didn't look in the bag to see if they came with nuts, locking or otherwise. Just looked online--the following link shows them with nylock nuts, and the package price approx $40.
Stainless Steel Pontoon Deck Bolts
'About all I know...........
Gary
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Old 04-18-2016, 10:07 PM   #36
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Just tossing this out for folks looking SS bolts and such. I've used "Lightning Stainless Bolt Supply" on Ebay. They have a huge inventory and the shipping is quick....good prices too .
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Old 04-19-2016, 06:24 AM   #37
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Thanks Gary and Dave!

My father was able to order some from a fastener supplier - not sure of the name currently.

I'll have and extra 80 or leftover like you, Gary!
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Old 04-19-2016, 07:47 AM   #38
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Everyone take note:

Gary and Dave are now in the "Elevator Replacement Bolt" business.

Please direct your needs & orders to these forum members!!!!!
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Old 04-20-2016, 01:01 PM   #39
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Name: Christopher
Trailer: U-Haul CT-13
Michigan
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Planning on ordering some parts for electrical.
Things I will be running:
- 3 way fridge
- Exhaust Fan
- Water Pump
- Lights
- Device Charging (iPhones, iPads, etc)
I will be replacing everything inside. New wiring, lights, outlets, power center, batteries, fan, solar panel/converter, etc.
Question:
I have not begun to look into solar much. My plan is a new smaller panel up top to replace the old one - and having two larger portable panels to move around our site. Will the PD4045KV be the best Power Center for whatever Solar Panels/controller I end up with? What bits of wisdom might I need as I get ready to spend some cash...?
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Old 04-25-2016, 02:19 PM   #40
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Virginia
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You did a great job Christopher, will you help me do mine? HA! And the pd4045 is great.
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