Burro Vinyl Roof Seam Cover Fell Down

[Muriel]

Hi, I'm new here.I've had my 1998 13' Burro for 4 years.I had cover on it last Winter.When I went inside this Spring, I found two pieces of the vinyl covered piece of wood that covers the interior roof seam lying on the ground! It's held up by small blocks that are glued to the fiberglass. Most of these had fallen too.I scored the blocks and used Plastic Welder.3500 psi strength (epoxy).I used an adjustable pole to hold it up and put pressure on the blocks, one at a time.I let them set up for 14 hrs.The last step was to put a screw through the viny and attach it to the wood block on the ceiling. It seemed to be holding up fine for 2 weeks until today when I noticed one of the wood blocks came loose again.So bummed.Has this ever happened to any of you Burro Brothers, or do any of you have a better idea on how to fix it again.Any insight is much appreciated.
Thanks, Muriel

[Donna D.]

HI Muriel, to FiberglassRV, we're glad you're here

Yep the center seam is one area where I've read folks "personalize" their trailers. No one says whatever was there originally needs to stay.

So, are you looking to just put whatever was there back up "permanently" or are you looking to change to something more "you"?

[Muriel]

Thanks for the welcome and your response Donna.My first thought was getting what was already up there to go back up and stay up, but I welcome all other ideas as well.
PS I thought about a nice gray duct tape center seam cover already! (Kidding)
Thanks, Muriel

[rabbit]

Muriel, the rectangular plywood blocks were adhered to the bare glass on the center seam with polyester body filler. Nothing wrong with that as bondo does adhere well to fiberglass. Unfortunately, sometimes it doesn't bond well to either wood or fiberglass if either is dirty or grease/oil contaminated. I had one backer block let go behind the hide of the rare Nauga. I put it back up with body filler. Here's a little hint: the drywall screw that held centerline trim to this block was 1" in length rather than the more usual 3/4 length found under the other screw covers. Looked like it penetrated the plywood and jacked the block off the ceiling. Fortunately it didn't self-tap it's way thru the very thick glass layup on the centerline. And it took 14 yrs. to show up as a small sag in the trim. Nothing is forever on things built to a price the market will bear.

jack

[Muriel]

Thanks for the help, Jack.I sanded the bondo area and then cleaned it off with acetone before aplying the epoxy and the wood block.Maybe acetone was the wrong thing to use? Do you think it would be better to use bondo to hold the wood block in place rather than epoxy?Would new bondo stick to the old
Thanks again, Muriel

[rabbit]

No problem with acetone. The very best cleaner/solvent for fg. If you were fiddling with acetone overhead, I'm going to guess you unsnapped the caps on the screw covers, backed out the screws and took at least the affected section of trim down. If you see pink or blue bondo on the ceiling and the negative impression of the blocks can be seen in the squeeze out, the bondo more than likely separated from the wood rather than the fg. I would suggest scoring the blocks with 60grt sandpaper to give some mechanical bite to whatever adhesive goo you use.

On the subject of taking the "dropped ceiling" as an occasion for a new departure in interior decorating, that's also a possibility and a search will yield several threads on possible materials (carpet, bamboo blinds) adhered in the centerline channel with various contact cements. I've seen comments that some of these fresh solutions have failed to stay in place so be aware that, should you choose that solution, you will likely need a fairly viscous and messy contractor grade carpet or contact cement on both surfaces to be adhered. A light dusting with something like aerosol 3M Spray-77 and similar craft store products isn't going to give good service for even a modest amount of time. I don't let the nesting instinct create more projects/problems than there are days in the week so fixed the old head bumper in my trailer.

jack

[Donna D.]

Muriel, here's one idea: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ior-46625.html

and another: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post310609

[Muriel]

Thanks for the help Jack and Donna.Yesterday we tried using Liquid Nails to stick the wood blocks back onto the existing Bondo forms, but they didn't hold.Roughed them up with a Dremel tool first.Maybe contact cement would hold them? Might have to go with the creative decorating plan.Thanks, Muriel

[stevebaz]

You might try this method since you already have the epoxy. Clean off all the stuff down to the base materials from the fiberglass and clean off the wood block. Mix up your epoxy and coat the ceiling where the block is going to go and coat the block but do not stick them together let that cure. Now rough up the 2 surfaces with the cured epoxy on them and coat them with epoxy again and stick them together. when you apply support it is important not to add so much pressure you squeeze all the epoxy out of the joint. I would use a pad of bubble pack between your block of wood and your support poll.
Gluing to wood can be tough if it contains any moisture. might want to dry the wood with a hair dryer untill its too hot to touch and then let it cool down before you try to glue it.
You may also want to try using Gorilla glue available at the hardware store.
it is a moisture curred ureathane adheasive. It likes gluing to wood and fiberglass.
Cleaning with Acetone is OK as long as you deal with the highly flamable fumes. Using Nail polish remover containing mostly acetone is not the same thing and wont work ( not saying you did just a note for others who will be reading this)

[Muriel]

Thanks Steve,I'll give this a try.I'll let you guys know how it goes.
Muriel

[Jared J]

Whatever you use, start with a clean surface on both sides, free of any previous glue. I would use something like ea9309, but it might be hard for you to get.

I can't imagine 3m super 77 not holding fabric up on the ceiling, it works on jets that cook on the ramp. It's holding the carpet down in my camper, good luck trying to remove it, and that's on top of the fuzz from the old carpet padding.