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Old 04-21-2014, 01:20 PM   #61
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Name: Jon
Trailer: Burro
Oregon
Posts: 127
Or triangulate the door support with both hinges on one side and a blind catch on the other for support. works well for mine and instead of a wood panel in the center, I have a light mesh screen that you can see through. Works even better when back lit with LED.
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Old 04-21-2014, 05:09 PM   #62
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
Don't have a link for them but they sell small adjustable expansion rods for use inside refrigerators that can make nice hold back rods for shelves.

Some really nice work there. I really like how you did your front dinette, and the shelves in the closet. By like mean I may borrow much from those two.

What did you use to attach your rails to support the shelves in the closet? I had been thinking of using epoxy on the inside and rivets into the wood from the outside to hold them while the epoxy set up.
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Old 04-21-2014, 05:27 PM   #63
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Name: kevin
Trailer: 13' Scamp
Colorado
Posts: 172
Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
Don't have a link for them but they sell small adjustable expansion rods for use inside refrigerators that can make nice hold back rods for shelves.

Some really nice work there. I really like how you did your front dinette, and the shelves in the closet. By like mean I may borrow much from those two.

What did you use to attach your rails to support the shelves in the closet? I had been thinking of using epoxy on the inside and rivets into the wood from the outside to hold them while the epoxy set up.

If you want to borrow the front dinette see what I said about tabing in supports rather than trying to use the existing supports for the existing bench which were really low. This would have saved me a lot of head aches.

I don't rivet and have nearly eliminated every single rivet from my camper. I dress up the bolts with finishing washers. I think they actually look really sharp. I used stainless steel bolts to attach pieces of wood on the inside of closet on each side. The shelves are just placed onto the supports. Technically there is nothing actually holding them down besides piles of food and crappolla. I suppose I could screw them down to the supports.
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Old 04-21-2014, 05:52 PM   #64
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
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Originally Posted by KevinScamps View Post
If you want to borrow the front dinette see what I said about tabing in supports rather than trying to use the existing supports for the existing bench which were really low. This would have saved me a lot of head aches.

I don't rivet and have nearly eliminated every single rivet from my camper. I dress up the bolts with finishing washers. I think they actually look really sharp. I used stainless steel bolts to attach pieces of wood on the inside of closet on each side. The shelves are just placed onto the supports. Technically there is nothing actually holding them down besides piles of food and crappolla. I suppose I could screw them down to the supports.
I noticed that about the original supports and tabbing in some where really needed.

I think SS bolts can look really nice but am 100% rivets right now so for consistency... but sounds like your saying the bolts alone handle the weight so I could skip the epoxy which is attractive in it's own right.

Why screw the shelves down? If it ain't broke then there's not much point in fixing it. Always enough stuff that needs to be done without looking for problems.
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Old 05-03-2014, 06:13 PM   #65
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Name: Paul
Trailer: Trillium Jubilee '79
Newfoundland
Posts: 78
Rattling glass jars.

Try putting a few wide-ish rubber bands around each bottle: one near the top and bottom and one near the middle. Not only will it buffer the sound it'll also improve your grip when trying to open the bottles. And of course its readily available and relatively inexpensive. :-)
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