Attractive & Strong Curtain Rod for Scamp - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 05-14-2018, 10:49 AM   #21
Senior Member
 
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,046
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilda View Post
Hi Everyone,
After many attempts I'm still on a quest for an attractive and strong curtain rod system for the Scamp. Remember, now, I am a "glamper". No reflectix or ugly makeshifting is allowed! I prefer to have "double rod holders" as I hang blackout (hand-rolled) shades behind my traditional curtains.

When I search "curtain rods" in our FGRV forum I get well over 250 hits. While I have not read them all, past postings on this topic generally, are not helpful to me. I am trying to work with the pre-installed curtain rods and holders that come with the Scamp. To my mind they are sub-standard being the cheapest rod and holders available. I have replaced the rods with ones that have a wider diameter which stay in the rod holders better than the skinny rods that came with the camper. The problem is that I "change out" my curtains frequently and in doing so the cheap rods tend to bend and weaken and the finials fall off. I have tried to insert a strong rod inside the regular rod.

I am looking for better quality, good-looking "cafe curtain rods" at Bed, Bath and Beyond as well as elsewhere. Unfortunately, I will not be able to replace the curtain rod holders because they are riveted into the trailer's frame. My trailer is 7 years old now and I've noticed some rivet buttons are popping off. Maybe it is time for me to consider replacing the curtain rod holders...16 rivets, yikes! And I have no idea how to do it. I need to find someone experienced who can do it for me.

The back curtain rod is the most problematic, at about 45" wide it sags badly. If there were a support hook in the middle of the cabinet above it would help. I'm very adverse to drilling in the interior fiberglass because one mistake could ruin it.

To further complicate matters, I would consider a "wrap-around" rod but want to have confidence that it will be attractive and strong.

Many thanks for reading my request. I would appreciate any ideas with photos, please.
Jilda, riveting work is actually very easy. The fear of learning, which equates to fear of failure, has you spending too much time searching for alternatives that are a lot more expensive. As to finding stronger rods that is easy to solve. You can buy much longer adjustable rods than your window length. The kind where the inner tube slides into the outer tube. By sliding those tubes together most of their length if not the full length you will have doubled the strength of the rod.

Be brave hearted, learn how to use a new tool, it won't bite you. Expanding you skills is important. Very much important since these won't be the only rivets you will ever need to replace over the years. Practice putting some rivets into scraps of material before you start in on the trailer. You will find it is not all that difficult to do. You have learned many mechanical task over the years that are far more complex than this.
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Old 05-14-2018, 10:58 AM   #22
Senior Member
 
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,156
Well I was going to do the side windows first and worry about the rear window later, but shippng is so expensive (maybe due to the length of the curtain tracks) that I am going to work out something for the rear window also and order everything at once.

Right now I am leaning toward one of the tracks shown on this page that use a snap receiver that slides in the track, and using the sew-in snap tape on the curtains. Instructions for the plastic version of the track is here.

I would not use snap slides for curtains that get moved back and forth a lot but for the rear window it should work well. I'm thinking that the snap sew-in tape scan be positioned so that the top of the curtain hides the track (sort of a poor man's valance). Snaps will also make it slightly easier to remove the curtains (for cleaning or a better view).

A few L brackets of some sort on top of the window frame should hold the track*. I am planning to attach the brackets with VHB tape so no permanent modifications to the Scamp are needed.

EDIT. I am might be overthinking this.. this track will probably go right on the top of the window frame in a Scamp with VHB tape and require no brackets. I'm checking the the vendor now.
----

* PS, I have no "fear of riveting" and have done some on my Scamp even though it is much newer. I agree all FBRV owners should do some practice on scrap and develop the skill (including removing rivets which can be more challenging). But I avoided the extra holes of the curtain rod holders and plan to continue to avoid them. If someone wants to use a track mounted inside the camper, they can avoid the problems with a least a few of the rivets and holes in the shell. The original holes could even be sealed up with 5200 so you would never have to think about them again.
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