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Old 09-23-2014, 03:30 AM   #41
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Thanks Dale, but I've already replaced the 7 pin connector and the plug that goes in the back of the controller with no change. Norm has suggested some tests via PM I need to get at when I can. It's always something!

Frank
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Old 04-17-2015, 06:08 PM   #42
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I'm looking over threads with my Escape problem to see if there's anything I missed. A few folks made specific comments last fall and darn if I can find them. Norm (of Norm & Ginny fame) suggested something, and someone else did too, and I can't find the threads.

Spring has sprung here in the NE. Tomorrow I hope to re-plumb the wastewater system that attaches to the tank. Once that is done, I'm hauling it 40 miles north to one of my best friends who owns a big repair shop and he is going to see if he can figure it out. I will keep you posted.

After reading through this old thread, I wonder about software in the car that might have been damages somehow in the car wash. But how do you figure that one out?

Thanks again for all the help, thoughts, encouragement and support. It IS appreciated!

Frank
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Old 04-18-2015, 06:05 AM   #43
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Frank,

I did not cut into the Ford wiring at all.

I used an adapter (Hopkins Multi-tow) to plug into the Ford 4 - pin flat and adapt it to 7-pin round (I think Curt might make a similar adapter?).
I then ran a 12v hot wire to the battery for charging and 12v fridge operation.

I had a couple of trailer shops look into mounting a controller on the ODB2 port door (left side), but they weren't keen on the idea. I eventually went with the Tekonsha Prodigy RF brake controller mounted on the trailer tongue and the little hand-held controller that plugs into the cigarette lighter.

This combo didn't require cutting into the Ford wiring or choosing a sub-optimal in-cabin controller mounting location.

Ray

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Old 04-18-2015, 12:08 PM   #44
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There's a good chassis ground behind the "D" pillar in the back of the car. That is where the ground is now. Will test it later today or tomorrow. Right now doing wastewater plumbing inside the trailer after repairing a leak in the tank last fall. Just about done!

By the way, our 2013 Escape with only 28,000 miles on it developed a leak where the right front axle goes into the front differential. Had it fixed last Wednesday. At least it was covered by warranty, but really?

Frank
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Old 04-18-2015, 10:14 PM   #45
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I have a 2014 Ford Escape 2.0L Ecoboost 4WD. It's a great tow vehicle.

But the computer in it is very particular with what it wants for trailer wiring. It does not like LED lights at all and will throw all kinds of error codes and erratic behavior. There is a TSB on this - but the fix is basically to rewire the car and to eliminate your proximity sensor on the BLIS system.

What happens is the computer, when a trailer is attached, wants to do all kinds of monitoring and diagnosis - but it can't really read anything and gets confused.

I found, quite by accident, that it will behave correctly if I run with the headlights on - turn off automatic mode. For some reason it clears up the issues.

I don't run with a brake controller. If you've wired that and a charging circuit separately to a 7 pin connector, and use the 4 pin wiring as-is. You should be fine, unless it is still conflicting with the trailer wiring thru the 4 pin. You might try my fix and see if it helps.

Good luck!
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Old 04-18-2015, 10:20 PM   #46
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I'm getting to the point that I wish I had not bought either!
No doubt that both of these fine product manufacturers of would concur!
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Old 04-19-2015, 06:45 AM   #47
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Ron,
Thanks for the tip about the headlights! :-)

I bought my 2014 Escape right at the end of the model year (just as the 2015s were about to come out) and, luckily, I've not experienced any of these computer problems (knock on wood!).
But, you never know if/when that tip might come in handy.

Ray

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Old 04-19-2015, 09:24 AM   #48
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Hooked the Escape up. Everything works except it still does not see the brakes. This will get rectified one way or dee udder soon!

Frank
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Old 04-19-2015, 09:28 PM   #49
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frank

Have you measured the resistance of the brakes at the trailer's connector?

Have you activated the brakes manually using the trailer's connector?

I assume you've done these two things. If you have not this is the first step.

where do you live in ny?

The sim[lest test. Go to radioshack and buy a 10 ohm resistor with a 5 watt rating ot antthing like that.. Stick the resistor in the hole of the tow vehicles 7 pin connector in the brake line connextion. Connect the oyjer end of the resystor to ground using either the connectors gnd pin or the chassis. manually axctivate the prodigy's controller with it's lever (i'm typing in the dark sorry.

if this diesnt work contact me and i'll give you a next step.




norm
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Old 04-20-2015, 03:38 AM   #50
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I don't think I have done either of those top 2 things Norm, but the trailer brakes do work fine with the F150. Wouldn't that mean they work fine, and it's the Escape with the problem?

We live just off exit 22 on I-87, about 15 miles south of Albany.

I think we still have a Radio Shack in Catskill (where I work). I'll see if I can find what you're suggesting I buy, and let you know.

Thanks for the help!

Frank

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frank

Have you measured the resistance of the brakes at the trailer's connector?

Have you activated the brakes manually using the trailer's connector?

I assume you've done these two things. If you have not this is the first step.

where do you live in ny?

The sim[lest test. Go to radioshack and buy a 10 ohm resistor with a 5 watt rating ot antthing like that.. Stick the resistor in the hole of the tow vehicles 7 pin connector in the brake line connextion. Connect the oyjer end of the resystor to ground using either the connectors gnd pin or the chassis. manually axctivate the prodigy's controller with it's lever (i'm typing in the dark sorry.

if this diesnt work contact me and i'll give you a next step.




norm
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Old 04-20-2015, 04:20 AM   #51
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Originally Posted by frank_a View Post
I don't think I have done either of those top 2 things Norm, but the trailer brakes do work fine with the F150. Wouldn't that mean they work fine, and it's the Escape with the problem?

We live just off exit 22 on I-87, about 15 miles south of Albany.

I think we still have a Radio Shack in Catskill (where I work). I'll see if I can find what you're suggesting I buy, and let you know.

Thanks for the help!

Frank
I have a simpler test I will perform on our vehicle today that should help. Don't do anything until I try it. I'm just waiting for Ginny to wake up.
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Old 04-20-2015, 04:28 AM   #52
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Okay Norm, just let me know. I'm off to work anyways, and planned on hitting the Radio Shack in Catskill on my noon hour. I'll hold off till I hear from you.

Thanks!

Frank
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Old 04-20-2015, 05:13 AM   #53
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Frank,

I'm trying to isolate the problem. Since the trailer works with your truck. it indicates to me that something is miss wired.

The brake controller, when using the controller's lever and not using the Escape's brake, is an independent device. The only information it gets from the Escape is brake pedal depressed.

This test has two parts, first to check the wiring to the tow vehicle's connector. Using a resistor to simulate the brakes at the connector should test the wiring to the connector and the controller.

We can perform a similar test at the controller's connector that will test the controller.

I went out to the tow vehicle connector and put a clip lead between the connector's brake pin and chassis ground. On my connector this is between pin 1 and 2. This causes the brake controller to overload, but shows that the wiring is correct to the connector.

If you used a resistor between these two pins, using two clip leads it would simply show 'connected' on the controller.

This would prove the wiring is correct from the controller to the connector. If this is correct the problem is between the trailer and tow vehicle connectors

The controller should show 'connected to the brakes' regardless of the state of the Escape.

If the controller is not showing connected with the resistor between the brake's connector pin and chassis ground, it indicates miss-wiring.

You can also perform the same test at the controller. Simply insert one end of the resistor into the blue wire's pin at the back of the controller's connector and the other end of the resistor into the white wire's pin. (You can use a piece of a paper clip in each pin and a couple of clip leads if you like. A piece of a paper clip into each pin, a clip lead off each piece of paper clip and a resistor between the two clips. This eliminates all wiring to the connector.
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Old 04-20-2015, 05:41 AM   #54
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Perhaps he should just check his notes. See post 32 I doubt Radio Shack will have anything. Not many play electronics these days. But if you are looking to load the circuit, a 12 v. lamp will work. Raz
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Old 04-20-2015, 05:46 AM   #55
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brakes

Is this normal to have problems with brake wiring or is this a ford escape problem ? Would'nt a RV place handle this easily ?What does Ford say about their car ?
We have a Snoozy and have surge brakes but no elec connection but thinking about a bigger trailer down the road
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Old 04-20-2015, 05:59 AM   #56
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Raz,

This should not be a Ford issue. The controller is really an independent device. It should see the presence of the trailer brakes, mine does even with the engine off. Yes an RV shop should be able to fix this problem.
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Old 04-20-2015, 06:29 AM   #57
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For what it's worth, here is a blow-by-blow of my installation. I was very careful, as I know wiring has to be correct or it just doesn't work. Where could the problem be? I've changed the plug into the controller, I've changed the plug at the back of the car. Last year I did continuity tests on everything I could, and no luck. Can anybody spot in these first few posts where I went wrong?

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...age-63140.html

Otherwise, I will get at these suggestions when I get home tonight. Thanks for the help Norm (and others). I will keep you posted.

Frank
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Old 04-20-2015, 06:38 AM   #58
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Frank,

Out of curiosity, what do you mean when you say the Ford doesn't see the brakes?

I'm guessing you mean that the P2 brake controller doesn't "see" the brakes, yes? (My Prodigy RF indicates ".c" when it sees the trailer is connected.)

The instructions for my Curt TriFlex
Controller (that we used in the CRV) had some very specific instructions for which wire you needed to tap into on a Ford vehicle. It said to not use one wire (color & stripe color) and to use another wire (color & stripe).

I think the Curt install instructions are available online. Also, since etrailer.com also sells Curt controllers, I'm sure someone at their help line would know which brake wire to tap into.

Good luck!

Ray

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Old 04-20-2015, 06:46 AM   #59
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Basically Ray, it just shows a very red screen with a little RV with a diagonal red line through it. That is when it is in the Escape. When it is in the truck, it works normally.

I still cannot for the life of me understand why Ford sells a vehicle with a 3500# tow capacity, and does not make it simple to connect a 7 pin rv plug. What state allows trailers weighing 3500#s to NOT have brakes? Maybe a few, but not many. We figured this car would be "the keeper" taking us into retirement, towing a lightweight fiberglass rv. I doubt that is the case after all the issues we've had with it.

My 2011 Ford Fiesta has developed a skip in the audio system after an hour or so of driving. It literally interrupts whatever audio is playing. Unfortunately, that Ford is out of warranty, so that's something else electronic I'm trying to get a handle on!

The only problem I have with my 2001 F150 is the mileage it gets!

Frank

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Frank,

Out of curiosity, what do you mean when you say the Ford doesn't see the brakes?

The instructions for my Curt TriFlex Controller (that we used in the CRV) had some very specific instructions for which wire you needed to tap into on a Ford vehicle. It said to not use one wire (color & stripe color) and to use another wire (color & stripe).

I think the Curt install instructions are available online. Also, since etrailer.com also sells Curt controllers, I'm sure someone at their help line would know which brake wire to tap into.

Good luck!

Ray
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Old 04-20-2015, 06:49 AM   #60
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Ray, the controller should see the brakes if the controller is connected to power and ground and the blue brake wire is connected to the trailer brakes.

Nothing else needs to be connected to see the trailer brakes, to see the little 'c' on the controller. No wires need to go to the Escape.

What I'm trying to do is verify that part of the wiring. I know it may be redundant with other tests already done but it's what I'd do as a first step.
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