What are the shower walls made of in a Scamp?

[Raya]

I can't see exactly what you're dealing with, but if you do go with a fiberglass panel, and you can't find a better way to deal with the need for a lip, you could add your own lip in fiberglass (to the pre-made panel). It'd be a bit messy and fussy, but it's doable. Probably there's a better way though.

One note is that some of those "tile" panels are (I believe) some kind of plastic coating on a fiberboard backing. I wouldn't recommend those, but would instead lok for a solid fiberglass panel. I'm prettty sure I've seen them there in "pebble" finish; I think you can get glossy too, although it might be somethin you'd have to order.

Or you might be able to get them online at someplace like McMaster-Carr. These would be able to be rolled up and shipped as tubes, I'm pretty sure.

Raya

[Tom Trostel]

I would use Marlite FRP (fiberglass reinforced polyester) for the walls. Home Depot and Lowes sell it in 4' x 8' sheets. It's used on the walls of commercial kitchens and public bathrooms. Pebble finish on one side and smooth on the other side.

http://www.fvvleck.com/marlite.cci

[Bryan L.]

I would use Marlite FRP (fiberglass reinforced polyester) for the walls. Home Depot and Lowes sell it in 4' x 8' sheets. It's used on the walls of commercial kitchens and public bathrooms. Pebble finish on one side and smooth on the other side.

http://www.fvvleck.com/marlite.cci

Ha, that is exactly what I picked up today at Lowes. I'm not too fond of the pebble side but the smooth side should work great. I liked the tile board but it was a wood product so I stayed away from it. I was worried about a little water getting in to the wrong side and it swelling up like a balloon.

[Scamping G]

Bryan, just wondering how Marlite turned out for you? I finally took a leap of faith, and picked up an 81 Scamp 16' last week. Adding a shower and toilet is my next project before the winter comes. I also read Rhalford's post on his adding shower post (Adding shower | Scamp Owners International). He used marine paint, but I just don't have the skills to cut out the wood panels like he did.

[Dennis mn]

Originally Posted by Tom Trostel

I would use Marlite FRP (fiberglass reinforced polyester) for the walls. Home Depot and Lowes sell it in 4' x 8' sheets. It's used on the walls of commercial kitchens and public bathrooms. Pebble finish on one side and smooth on the other side.

Marlite Slatwall from FV Vleck

My trailer was supplied to the original owner without toilet and shower, he later changed his mind and installed a bath! He used the pebble finished Marlite and it appears to have held up well in the eleven years that I have owned the trailer.

[redbarron55]

Here is a picture of the bath I added to my Scamp. I used the FRP from Lowe's.

[Scamping G]

Thank you, Dennis and redbarron55. I will check out the Marlite/FRP at the store. Quick question to redbarron55, did you install the shower pan? If so, where did you order it from? What about the white trim for the bathroom window? Thanks so much.

[redbarron55]

The shower/bath pan was bought off craigslist and I think it was for a Transvan conversion. I bought it with the toilet as a package. It measures about 24" X 37".
The white trim for the window is the trim that was with the window that was installed in the old side bath and I cleaned it and painted it with Epoxy white appliance paint in a rattle can.
The bath is mostly a flat wrap except for where the wall curves slightly in the left upper side. I added some wooden bars across the wall and trimmed the original curved bracing for a "flat" wall from side to side. It does curve from the bottom to the top to give the illusion of more space. It is backed up with 1/4" plywood screwed to those added wooden members. The window helps hold the wall in place. I have not yet finished with the bath. I sealed the corners with a small bead of caulk and I think I will add the bath and shower corner trim from Lowe's. I may not since it looks pretty good now and the stick on seal tape can look pretty ratty after a while.

This is what it looked like when I fitted it to the new frame I built.



Something like one of these.

- RV Windows

If I had this to do over again I would not cut the shower drain, but rather fabricate a drain "slot" at the low point to feed the filter and pump to keep the "P" trap from being so low. I don't think the trap is necessary with the back pressure valves in the pump.

[Scamping G]

Great. Thanks. That's very helpful information.