Adding more fasteners to Boler 1300

[Butsky]

Well members, I was thinking of adding more screws to my Boler to secure the body to the frame. Original 43-year-old screws seem to loosen up somewhat, and I don't want any cracked/twisted frame issues. I would add more, in line, to what is presently there. What kind/size should I use? Can I get chisel-head self-tapping kinds or what? Who else out there had "fortified" their Boler fastening system? Your thoughts would be welcomed here! Thanks.

[John in Michigan]

Hi Ronald,

My 1974 Boler 13 made in Alberta, which I have since sold to another forum member had:

- Four 1/4" bolts with fender washers (on the floor), lock washers and nuts below. These four bolts go through the FG floor into flanges that are welded to the rectangular tubing frame. Two of these fasteners are under the front bench. The other two are under the two rear benches.

- Approx. fourteen #10 x 1 1/2" sheet metal screws with fender washers (on the floor) go through the FG floor into the rectangular tubing frame.

All of the above appeared to be original. I replaced all of the fasteners. The sheet metal screws were loose, so I increased sheet metal screw size to #12, specifically #12 hex head self drilling screws.

-John

[Butsky]

Ah, John. Thanks for the info! #12 you say. Ok, I will look into that, and just bring along one of the originals. I suppose if I go oversize a bit, I won't need to add additional screws. Someone in the past had suggested those blue coated fasteners for concrete with the aggressive bite and corrosion resistance. The original fasteners lasted this long, so I guess I am worrying too much...

[John in Michigan]

Ronald, most of my original #10 screws were loose. I removed all of them and put in #12's, all of which held very tight.

[Butsky]

I was able to tighten up a few originals while sum just spun. I like the #12 screw idea. I will grease up the screws before driving them home. New fende washers will look nice, also! Should give a nicer bite into the frame and put my mind at ease as the frame is original, straight and no welding done. This Boler sat up on blocks in a garage for the past 16 years. Might sand blast the frame some day and rattle-can some black rust paint on it. Thanks again, my friend!

[Pamelia]

Hi there. A friend is re-doing my 1300 Boler and found after gutting it that only two screws were somewhat holding the trailer to the frame. Most looked good! We filled all the holes and rescue we rescrewed with the original size. Since I'm in a northern clim also I made sure these were rust-proof. Good luck, have fun.

[bullfrogeh]

Like John in Michigan, I decided to weld on four pieces of angle iron, one at each quarter of the shell to the corresponding frame locations, and then secured the shell to those 4 pieces of angle with 3/8" stainless bolts and oversize 'fender' washers. I also replaced the original 14 'screws' with heavier fasteners. I think I'm 'secure' now; but, I've always been a fan of the theme - "for an extra buck, go first class" or, "better safe than sorry".

[John in Michigan]

Originally Posted by bullfrogeh

Like John in Michigan, I decided to weld on four pieces of angle iron, one at each quarter of the shell to the corresponding frame locations, and then secured the shell to those 4 pieces of angle with 3/8" stainless bolts and oversize 'fender' washers. I also replaced the original 14 'screws' with heavier fasteners. I think I'm 'secure' now; but, I've always been a fan of the theme - "for an extra buck, go first class" or, "better safe than sorry".

Mine actually had the four angle brackets welded to the frame when I got it. They looked original and the four bolts were very rusted. I replaced with four SS bolts, IMHO its best to use nylock nuts when fastening bolts/machine screws through FG shell. This allows installer to minimize torque and reduce FG stress cracks around the fastener.

[RussL]

Originally Posted by bullfrogeh

Like John in Michigan, I decided to weld on four pieces of angle iron, one at each quarter of the shell to the corresponding frame locations, and then secured the shell to those 4 pieces of angle with 3/8" stainless bolts and oversize 'fender' washers. I also replaced the original 14 'screws' with heavier fasteners. I think I'm 'secure' now; but, I've always been a fan of the theme - "for an extra buck, go first class" or, "better safe than sorry".

Like Dave, I welded angle brackets (6 in my case) and used 3/8" stainless bolts. Mine originally was secured with only screws. I think there were about a dozen of them.

Russ

[Butsky]

You know, when I think about it, screws are a poor makeshift way of attaching a F/G body to a metal frame. Would it have killed them to use bolts instead and charge another $50? Yes, I know the Bolers were only $1700 new at the start....

[Jan Dyke]

some of mine were loose, tightining helped some but not all. I was thinking of using the self tapping bolts with a cap screw head, that was you could use a socket on them.
Jan

[John in Michigan]

Originally Posted by Jan Dyke

some of mine were loose, tightining helped some but not all. I was thinking of using the self tapping bolts with a cap screw head, that was you could use a socket on them.
Jan

I used #12 hex head self drilling screws w/fender washers purchased at HD. I replaced all of them.