1975 Boler Complete Restoration....my once in a lifetime project!

[Shanos]

Thanks Rob! I took the door off the trailer quite a while ago (read a few years ago ) and over time, the door flattened out since there is no support in the fibreglass doors. I also discovered that when you take the door off and remove all cabinets, there is nothing to support the trailer from "flattening". As a result, I have a bit of a "kink" in the body on the right side of the door frame. I did not try to fix this but rather custom fit the frames to this kink. For anyone else removing everything, I would recommend some support. I tried to remove the front fibreglass skin from the door but it was very difficult. I figured for the amount of time I would spend doing this and other repair that would be required, I'd make a door from plywood and have it fibreglassed. I've found someone in Richmond who will fibreglass it to "primer/paint-ready" for a reasonable price.

And that's correct...I'm not using any of the original fibreglass cabinets. I will be building all of the cabinets.

[FRED SMAILES]

I had noticed in previous pics that the door opening looked a little different.
Your talent is showing again, great work!
Fred

[Shanos]

Thanks again Fred! Yes, I was a little sad about that. I think if I had known then what I know now (how many times do you say that in a lifetime?!) I would have attempted to repair that. However, I can live with the quirk in my Boler

[FRED SMAILES]

Forgot to ask about the 'glass, will it be hand laid or chopper gun?
In both instances I would be concerned about the door edges and water penetrating in those areas. Be sure to inform/inquirer of your 'glasser of that concern.
Fred

[robeye]

Oh dear.. I better have a look at the door.. The one that came with mine is off of a newer trailer.. it has a radius window. And looks good. but yes... aside from the floor being removed so was all other support. When you keep these trailers somewhat original the light weight cabinets are important for supporting the roof and adding stiffness to the sides. You have done that with the wood framing. You have turned a Boler into a bigfoot. They have wood framing inside and rigid foam for insulation.. I'm inspired by your work..

[Shanos]

Thanks for that Fred. I expect it will be hand laid and I've asked him to wrap the fibreglass around the edges to the door frame. The inside edge of the frame will have resin applied and prepped to be painted as well. It's all about making sure water doesn't penetrate the wood!

[Shanos]

I know that Bigfoot trailers are well built but didn't know they used wood framing and spray foam insulation. I can see why they are more expensive!

[robeye]

A week ago I had a look at an older 16 ft Bigfoot . My brother has one that's a bit newer than the one I saw.. And yes they are nice. But the older one was needing a whole new interior because the roof leaked... all the wood framing was bad falling down.. as well as the paneling coming apart. The floor seamed to be solid enough...till I had a look under the trailer. Someone had wedged 2x4's between the frame to hold up the floor ! So a huge job to fix it to my standards... not a patch job.. The price was too high for that much work.. I love working on these small trailers.. and don't ever consider the cost of my time.. It's a hobby. But I never spend more than it's value.

[Jay H]

Shannon, you have done a fantastic job with your trailer so far. I can't wait to see what you do next. Not too many people would be as brave as you in their renovation - but I love to see someone as adventurous and capable as you take on a project like this.

[Shanos]

Very kind words...thanks Jay! Brave or crazy! Nearly done my door...will hopefully get it to the fiberglass shop next 1 - 2 weeks. Then to tackle the wall paneling!

[Shanos]

At long last, I will have a door that fits this trailer! After completing the door frame, it was time to apply the plywood. I wanted the edges to be 1/4" thick so I applied the first layer of 1/8" Baltic birch as strips that butted up to the 1/4" spacers I had previously attached to the trailer and wide enough to cover the frame. I very carefully matched the curve in the upper corners and left spaces to be filled in with 1/8" aluminum plates for hinge attachment...no wiggling loose with enlarging through holes in plywood or fibreglass!

[Shanos]

Using Titebond III, I glued a slightly oversized 2nd layer of 1/8" Baltic birch plywood to the first layer. I attached the 1/8" aluminum plates using screws and epoxy. Finally, using a router with a flush cutting bit, I trimmed the top layer of plywood using the first layer as my template. All screw holes were filled with epoxy putty, everything was sanded and the edges rounded over...one door ready to be fiberglassed!

[Shanos]

I also received the baggage doors. They aren't very big but will allow access to storage of smaller items in a space that would be very cumbersome to reach from the inside. It's all about maximizing space in these small trailers!

[Shanos]

Now for a little break. I'll tackle the interior panelling in the New Year. Lots of pattern making! It will make a huge change in the appearance of the inside! Will also start looking for someone to prep and paint the exterior...not a job I want to take on. I plan to use a 2-part paint that will be sprayed on so this is a job for a professional.

[Doobie]

Shanos, the work and detail are amazing! I think I will need to go this route as well in the spring. My 72 Boler has the typical upper corner split, cheap repair job and the existing door had it's corners shaved. I'm looking forward to see and learn how your going to glass the door. Nice work! Merry Christmas!

[Shanos]

Hi Randy,
Thanks! Yes, sometimes the repairs don't get at the cause of the problem around the door issues. Reinforcing the interior frame and having secure places to mount the hinges should take care of that. As for the fibreglassing, I have dropped the door off at a place in Richmond, B.C. to have it fiberglassed. Not in my skill set and I don't really care to learn...for the cost and the amount of time it would take me to do as good a job, it makes more sense to have a pro do this job.
Merry Christmas to you as well
Shannon

[Doobie]

Hey Shanos, curious where you live, I'm in Burnaby. I really like the idea of framing around the door opening as well, just gives the shell much more strength and keeps everything in-line. I'm curious, do you still have the templates or fitted and trimmed as you went? You may have discussed it earlier in the thread, just don't have time to look. I'm away in January, once I'm back plan to dive full on into my 72 rebuild, your a huge inspiration!

[robeye]

Sure glad I have a good door that fits.. Good work. !

[Kai in Seattle]

We got so lucky. The molded/sealed-in one-piece ceiling and the main door were in good shape. Go figure. We replaced nearly everything else and patched 84+ holes in the shell...but feel lucky at that.

Good work on this! Impressive, it really is. I cannot imagine we'd have been able to fabricate either ceiling or door.

We even have the original wood strips on the inside of the door...a magazine or towel rack? Anyone? Anyone?

(1973 Amerigo FG-16)

[Altemplet]

I too acquired a nasty 83 Casita that had to be totally gutted. I thought about the spray foam but went with Reflextics glued on instead. I did not like the rat fur so I used grass cloth wallpaper and glued it on. All the cabinets were rebuilt from quarter inch birch with oak frames. I modified the interior to have a full-size bed in back and then a two person dinette in the front. The table comes up and we have a slide out porta potty underneath the driver’s dinette for emergencies.