Air conditioner for 13 ft. Scamp

[Tonnie]

Hi,

Bought our 1979 13' Scamp today... So excited!!! It's definitely a project and one of the first things I want to do is add air conditioning. Can anyone suggest a good one to get and where it should be placed? I'd rather not use a window space if possible.

Thanks!

[Lynn Musgrave]

Many people have add AC units to their campers ...in all kinds of places...even in windows!
Go to the top of the page and find the search box drop down menu,when you click on the down arrow it will give you suggestions of ways to search...in the Google search box type in air conditioner...that will give you LOTS of topic links and you can look at them to see if you find anything you like.

Everyone here is very helpful and will answer your questions as best they can with advice on how to best do your Mod. Someone much better than me( Donna D ) is Great on pointing people to just the Right topic so she just might pop in anytime with some real good Topic links for you.

Good luck and Happy Camping

[Donna D.]

Hi Tonnie, to FiberglassRV, we're glad you're here.

Unfortunately, you will not be able to add A/C to the roof. The early Scamps were not built for A/C unless ordered that way. The roof won't support the weight without extra support put in during the initial build. You can add support, if you're completely modifying the trailer (removing headliner, etc.) Your best bet is a window A/C or one put into the closet, etc.

Best of luck!

[Tonnie]

Thank you to both of you!

Lynn, thanks for the instructions on how to use some of the features on this website.

Donna, thanks for the info. Sounds like roof air is more trouble than it's worth.

We don't want to put the egg into a deep freeze, just filter the air and cool it down.

[sarahspins]

If you poke around a bit, there are a number of examples of closet installs - I'm about to go that route myself, I've already bought a 5,000BTU window unit to put in my 13' scamp

A closet install WILL require the addition of an outside vent, which means cutting a suitably sized hole. If that doesn't scare you away, it does seem like a fairly easy job... I expect the hardest part for me is going to be running the electrical line to that side of the camper.. but I've half considered just adding an electric inlet (like this one - no extra wiring required) on that side since once I'm done with my "renovations" the only need for AC power will be for the air conditioner... everything else will run on solar/12v.

[floyd]

Frigidaire has a particularly small A/C, which works well with small fiberglass RVs.
They have been installed in many places ..
top or bottom of the closet
Through the front hull
Under the dinette(old Scamp factory location)
Front corner at floor level ( Casita Patriot location)

[Boler Dan]

I purchased a near new portable floor model 5000 btu AC for my boler off kijiji for $100.00 it has a remote and I set it up to vent out the door window. It cooled mine from 92 degrees F to 72 in 1 1/2 hours. Once the beds and sheets and everything was cool, I shut it off. The sun was down. I stuck it in my SUV and opened the windows and vent. I like the fresh air and it dehumidifies as well. If it was really humid I would leave it on, on low with just the dehumidifier on. Works great for me. Mine is a Hisense but Sears sells a Kenmore. I see used ones for sale all the time. They work well as a backup in the house as well if you have a hot bedroom far from the central air....Works on 110 volt. ...Works for me...fairley portable and light.

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Donna D.

Hi Tonnie, to FiberglassRV, we're glad you're here.

Unfortunately, you will not be able to add A/C to the roof. The early Scamps were not built for A/C unless ordered that way. The roof won't support the weight without extra support put in during the initial build. You can add support, if you're completely modifying the trailer (removing headliner, etc.) Your best bet is a window A/C or one put into the closet, etc.

Best of luck!

you are almost always right! But in this case....
On the older Scamps with the thinner top, supports were often added by putting a wooden support fore and aft of the rooftop A/C unit. These "rafters" were sanctioned and occasionally even (I think) installed by Scamp. They were attached using through the hull screw fasteners. Sorry, my archives don't contain any pictures of them.

[Tonnie]

Thanks so much to all of you!

I'm wondering about installing it in the center front low enough it can be supported by a metal piece welded on to the hitching assembly.

Has anyone tried this?

[Tonnie]

Floyd,

I love the little dinette area with the a.c. in the front. What a great idea! It's good I don't have any money left after buying the Scamp. It will give me more time to get all this good advice before I start working on it.

Thanks!

[Tonnie]

Sarah,

I love, love, love Ramblin' Rosie's fancy paint job! Classy, colorful, distinctive, and still sun reflective.

I'd love to paint mine red with black dots, but my husband makes a very good point that it would be too hot. Also, red fades so badly. However, it would make such a cute Ladybug!

Thanks!

[Bob Miller]

I think what Donna stated is correct in it's context.

I have never heard of the "Rafter" modification and, unless some documentation and/or images were available, it sounds like a bit of a risk for the newbie, especially if they have to start out by cutting a big hole in the roof.

And about putting it on the tongue.... Scamps are usually a bit tongue heavy to start, adding more weight out there to a now 35 y.o. frame might not be that good an idea either. The closet install puts the weight right over the axle, where it belongs.

[Tonnie]

You make a really good point Bob. Thanks!

[Bob Miller]

If you would like to look at some ideas for yours, feel free to look here and to browse around the other projects we have done with FGRV's:
The Best 13 Ft RV On The Planet Photos by advocateone | Photobucket

[floyd]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

I think what Donna stated is correct in it's context.

I have never heard of the "Rafter" modification and, unless some documentation and/or images were available, it sounds like a bit of a risk for the newbie, especially if they have to start out by cutting a big hole in the roof.

And about putting it on the tongue.... Scamps are usually a bit tongue heavy to start, adding more weight out there to a now 35 y.o. frame might not be that good an idea either. The closet install puts the weight right over the axle, where it belongs.

Well, you've heard of it now!
Never under estimate a newbie's ability to tackle a simple mod, originally suggested by the OEM.

A base Scamp's tongue weight of the era was under eighty pounds.(actually a bit too light)
The one in the picture was about 160# with a 24 battery and a full propane tank. The A/C unit weighs under 40# (less than the upper bunk which was removed.)

The "big" hole for a rooftop A/C is exactly the same 14"X14" that is required for a fantastic fan.

Each of the ideas proffered proved successful in application, and was presented in the spirit of the OP's request for viable suggestions.

Whether the particular<40# A/C "belongs" over the axle is a subjective judgment, but it certainly did well installed in the closet of the 1973 LoveBug pictured as one suggestion.

[Bob Miller]

I guess I fit into the mixed metaphor of being a "conservative liberal"
I think we have all have seen (at least I have anyway) the results of new RV owners tackling projects well over their heads and the disastrous results thereof.... The results show up in trailer ads that usually start out with leads like "A Blank Canvas" or "Make it your way" etc. I would hardly call installing a rooftop a/c a beginners task.

I will always underestimate an owners ability until discussions prove otherwise.

More than once I have posted "If you have to ask that question, maybe you shouldn't be doing that job".

I'm just not a fan of adding weight up forward and "over the axle" seems to be the long held credo when adding weight to almost any kind of trailer. When installing a group 27 battery in my Compact-II, I put it inside, as close to the axle as possible, a bit inconvenient, but the "right" place for the extra weight.

Maybe someone will chime in with more info about the "Rafters". A similar solution was used in the 1987 and later molded fiberglass Sunrader mini-motorhomes, but in that case they used stamped steel beams, that anchored to the side walls, below the curve, to reinforce the roof.

[Tonnie]

Beautiful Bob!

[floyd]

look here for another simple idea for A/C...
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post464901

[Tonnie]

Well, after looking at ac's, fridges, and microwaves online, and measuring, remeasuring (In case something had grown, I guess!), I'm thinking I need to put a small fridge where the icebox was originally, the microwave in the closet, and the ac at the front. Since I'm removing very heavy bunk beds added by the PO, I believe it will be actually fairly comparable in weight. I'm hoping by putting the microwave and additional storage in the closet, it will help balance the weight of the fridge on the other side. The gas burners were removed before I purchased it. So, there isn't any weight from that. I would like to cover the opening with some ceramic tile. Would that be too heavy?

Is this the right idea... to try to balance the weight side to side?

Also, the PO raised the height of the egg. The hitch on the back of the car is put in upside down with the ball then replaced on the top. It pulls really nicely.

The interior fiberglass units have yellowed. Is there something I can use to whiten them back up?

Also, I want to remove the carpet and replace it with vinyl tiles. Is there a secret way to do that, or is it the same as removing carpet anywhere?

I cannot express how much I appreciate all the input. This site is a Godsend!

We've looked for this egg for several years and now that I have it, I don't want to mess it up with pure ignorance. We plan to use it for the rest of our lives.

Thanks!

[Bob Miller]

I'm guessing that there is no longer any propane in the Scamp?
Before you go all electric, keep in mind that it's not always possible to find a campsite with power hook-ups. In fact, as it's sometimes difficult to find any sites, you may sometime in the future want/have to overnight in places as unthought of as a Casino, Camping World, Cracker Barrel or even a WalMart Parking lot. Sooo, I am suggesting thinking about getting a cooktop back and, if necessary, reinstalling the propane system.

When I have redone floors on Scamps I have first removed the seat units, they usually unscrew from the floor inside the seats, then removed or cut back as much of the old carpet as possible before laying down new floor, usually laminate.

Tip#1.... Take your time...