Trillium window wood, dry out or replace

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Carl V

I took great care when ungluing the Ensolite, and once the windows were back in, the Ensolite was just tucked behind the aluminium frame edge, over the wood but not glued. It looks like it's holding there, and every thing looks like original.

That is exactly what I did as well.

About that 54" vs. 52" question. Could you please measure it? I just went out to 45-1100980. It is 52". This is good, because when I cut up the 4' x 8' sheet of plywood, I cut it all up. Enough to do all the windows in three more trailers.

[Carl V]

Well, my apologies, you are absolutely right, it's 52 inches!


Not sure why 54 registered in my memory!

[Carlost]

Originally Posted by Patrick M

I removed and replaced all of our windows. Most of the lower pieces of wood were wet and only a few were starting to rot. I dried the wet pieces and replaced the rotten ones. The problem is that the original pieces are 7/8" plywood and for me, that was hard to find. I ended up using 1" plywood and that worked OK.

Hi Patric, how the 1" plywood turned out?
Thanks, Carlos

[Carlost]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

Part way to a front gaucho install drawing.
Two different profiles. One that is 1" thick, the other 3/4" thick. I did the 3/4" version.

Hi, David
Thanks for posting the drawings, it's exactly what I was looking for it top replace the rotten frames.
Thanks a million, Carlos

[David Tilston]

New plan.

I would like to use something that will not rot. Princess Auto is having a sale on extruded aluminum:
https://www.princessauto.com/en/3-4-...t/PA0008829376
https://www.princessauto.com/en/1-x-...t/PA0008829475
https://www.princessauto.com/en/1-1-...t/PA0008829483
https://www.princessauto.com/en/3-4-...t/PA0008829467

This is intended for my front dinette Trillium 4500. This means that the upper bunk will not need to hang on this, just the shelves, and the fibreglass table support.

The evolving plan is to weld those four pieces together to form the same cross section as the ¾" thick wood pieces. I would install the windows using aluminum rivets, instead of screws. The flat pieces that are shown not connected may not be necessary. Let me know what you think.
Trillium Aluminum Frame.JPG Views: 5 Size: 16.9 KB ID: 148225" style="margin: 2px" />

The angle is a 1" wide piece. using Pythagoras theorem
X²+Y²=Z²
or
¾²+¾²=Z²
1.125=Z²
1.061=Z (close enough)

All of the pieces are 96” long. So, four of each would be enough for both the front and back windows with 88” left over. Each big window: 96=52+22+22 plus another 52" for the other long side. So lets say 6 lengths to cover the side windows as well. I’m not sure what I would do with the kitchen window.

The materials cost, (in Canadian $) for the minimum version, (the first and second lines) would be $197.88, ($143.40 USD). If I include the “optional” parts, the cost would be $335.76, ($243.30 USD). I should also include the cost for the aluminum in the spool gun. Since welding is required anyway, I expect that I would weld the frame together as well, or not. It would probably be easier to install as seperate pieces.

I like working with aluminum. I can cut it with a carbide tipped wood blade on my little 18VDC Ryobi compound miter saw.

[Carl V]

Hi Dave
I would not use rivets to install the windows.
Butyl tape, or any sealant for that matter, isn't eternal.
One day, sooner or later, you will have to take those windows off and reseal them. I can't imagine drilling and punching out hundreds of rivets just to take the windows out without the occasional damage to the holes in the shell or in your aluminium framing.
Self drilling metal screws? I don't know.
Otherwise, nice plan!

[David Tilston]

Carl, I want to use aluminum rivits to prevent galvanic corrosion. Though I agree that they would make replacing the butyl tape difficult.

[David Tilston]

Revised New Plan:

I think I will just use the ¾" x 1-½" U channel and make up the rest in Styrofoam. Much easier and less expensive, $137.94 CDN, ($99.96 USD).

[Raz]

I doubt plywood will rot in your life time. You can always paint with a wood preservative for extra protection. In my Trillium they used the plywood to screw the upper shelves in place. Is yours the same? If so, will the aluminum accommodate the threads?

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Raz

I doubt plywood will rot in your life time. You can always paint with a wood preservative for extra protection. In my Trillium they used the plywood to screw the upper shelves in place. Is yours the same? If so, will the aluminum accommodate the threads?

Mine is the same. The shelves screw into the plywood frame. But for the most part, they rest on it. I will have to figure some way accommodate attaching the shelves. Currently the plan involves rivets as opposed to screws. But then I would have to duplicate the 45° bevel on the top of the frame. As discussed previously, that could involve welding more aluminum on. Enough Aluminum bar to add a 45° on just the top of the windows will add $35.96 CDN, ($26.06 USD).

This is still an evolving plan.

As for not rotting in my lifetime, you are also probably correct about that. In 40 years, (the time I expect wood to last) I will be 97 and no longer camping. However, this is more of an ideal design exercise. I'm looking to build a 100-year Trillium. I'm not always the most practical person.