Bigfoot battery needed for boondocking

[ZachO]

Yep, mine came as a kit. Aluminum carrying case, two 45W panels connected by a hinge, with telescoping legs, 3-stage charge controller and I think 3 different ways to connect to the battery.

Luckily my battery is right on the tongue. I just googled deep cycle rv battery. I found a Duracell online at Batteries Plus with a $10 coupon if I bought online but picked it up in the store.

I plan to monitor the battery level with a separate voltmeter, but it would be really nice to have something connected in line that I could monitor things with more closely.

The panels are a compromise, like everything. You don't have to mount them to the roof, and you can park in the shade and set the panels out facing directly at the sun, and move them as the sun moves if you feel like the effort. But you have to find a place inside the camper or tow vehicle to store a 30-40lb 2'x2' case, and worry about someone walking off with them when they're set up, if you leave them out and go somewhere.

With my last camper, I just connected the panels and called it good. I didn't monitor anything. But all I had in that camper were LED lights, a 12V fan, and I charged some batteries through an inverter. No water pump, and it was a motorhome, so the battery was charged well by the alternator when I drove, and I usually didn't sit in one place for more than 5 days. So I just never worried about it. I'm sure I'll use more power with the Bigfoot.

[Tyhee]

Well, time for an update. Thanks for the great conversation, meandering yes, but then I always wonder about starting another thread vs carrying on with the story.

I bought the 100 amp /hr group 31 battery locally. $ here it is, it weighs 70 lbs!

[Tyhee]

So now I have a few more questions. I hope it is ok to keep asking!

1 I have been charging the battery with a 1 amp trickle charger for the past 2 days off and on. When I disconnect the batt I usually read 13.1 volts, then letting it sit overnight it is down to 12.7v , will check it again tomorrow morning. If it drops again I think I will take it back. 2 yr no questions warranty.

2 with new 70 lb batt and 2 full 20lb propane tanks that is 70 + 70 = 140 pounds of tongue weight....probably at least 25lbs over what would be normal ...I wonder if any noticeable handling difference (towing) , and so much for the easy lift and spin routine in the bush!

3 I like the sound of those solar panel kits , but , I really want to have a digital or old school meter of the "live" battery volts/ amps, the trailer supply place did not have one. These kind of battery health indicators do not seem to be included with your basic charge controllers and panel kit. I have figured that a 40w panel will service our demands well. Anyone know a cheap, helpful, basic battery meter?
As always, thank you very much!

[Glenn Baglo]

The 13.1 volts that you get immediately after charging is called a 'surface charge'.
To get a proper reading you have to let the battery rest and it will fall to 12.7 or 12.8 which is a fully charged battery. So save your back. No need to return the battery.

Try your Walmart for a battery meter:

Equus Innova 3721 Battery and Charging System Monitor - Walmart.com

[Glenn Baglo]

Battery table:

[ZachO]

Great! Yeah those buggers are heavy.

[Uplander]

Looks like a sealed battery (AGM ??)....see you have a multi meter...smart...always a good idea to monitor the system.

The more these batteries weigh the better...indicates they have heavy lead plates....big box stores' batteries often weigh less indicating less lead in the plates.

Good Luck !

I hope all readers got some valuable information from this long exchange of viewpoints.
Always more than one way to arrive at the same result.

Happy Camping !

[Tyhee]

Glenn, that is a great little chart thank you for sharing.
Up lander, yes I think there is some great info in this thread, not one size fits all, of course, but combined with the "what solar panel size do I need" thread, all is well.

[larryc]

read this guys posts: https://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/

[ZachO]

Yes now that you've got that new battery I'd suggest learning about batteries and charging. No use buying a nice new battery then killing it quickly with misuse. 12.6-12.7 is exactly where it should be when "at rest", as Glen says.

[jjvirginia]

Originally Posted by Uplander

Roger H., The reason I did my study of deep cycle batteries was because after buying a Walmart RV/Marine so called deep cycle battery in the spring of last year and had it fail not once but twice before the fall of the year I had to educate myself....I vowed "never again". Note also the actual cost of a group 27 Marine/RV deep cycle type 12 volt battery at Walmart is $99.99 not $80.
It comes with a one year replacement warranty and if you return it and are not a happy camper they will give you a complete refund...I was an Unhappy Camper and took the refund last fall.

My motto is...."Always buy the best". But sometimes I forget...best for the travel trailer is an AGM deep cycle...buy it and forget it...never needs maintenance!!

Happy Camping!

I will take two 6V Trojan batteries wired in series over one 12V AGM any day. That is what I have in my trailer and I monitor amp hours in and out to ensure the battery is charged properly and not discharged too much to create damage.

Battery life is largely dependent on the charging / discharging cycle. Any battery will be toast quickly if it's not properly charged and discharged.

If you are charging properly you won't boil off fluid in a wet cell. A good battery monitor combined with the knowledge of when to charge, at what voltage and for how long will extend the life of wet cells beyond 10 years.

[WaltP]

Originally Posted by jjvirginia

I will take two 6V Trojan batteries wired in series over one 12V AGM any day. YMMV

I agree with that, but I'll still take two 12s over two 6s for reasons stated earlier.

Walt

[Raz]

Originally Posted by Uplander

On another matter (LED bulbs) the question of polarity came up regarding off air antenna television reception ....as I understand it the reception problem came from "RF" interference from some LED bulbs...the whole subject is all smoke and mirrors for my tiny brain...in my trailer...LED lights on = bad TV reception....
LED lights off = O.K. TV reception.

New technology = Confusion

Happy Camping.

LEDs, like all diodes, require a biasing circuit. The simplest biasing circuit is a series current limiting resistor. Unfortunately, with a resistor the light output varies with the input voltage. Your LED puts out less light as your battery discharges. To overcome this the resistor is replaced by a voltage regulator circuit. The cheapest voltage regulator is a PWM switcher. A byproduct of pulse width modulation is RFI. While your light is now steady with respect to battery voltsge , your trailer is filled with little radio transmitters. As well as LED lights you will find converters, solar controllers, USB outlets, battery chargers all use PWM circuits producing RFI. An AM radio in close proximity will pick up the noise. You'll be surprised at how many noise makers you have. Raz

[Uplander]

Raz, Thanks for this education...knowledge is power. Now I know why when LED lights are off my television reception improves....perhaps this RF thing is responsible for the current batch of presidential candidates !!! With the lights off everything looks better !

Happy Camping!

[Kevin A]

You may want to start a new thread with your question. People may not see it at the end of this old discussion thread.

[JC_In_Austin]

Originally Posted by Kevin A

You may want to start a new thread with your question. People may not see it at the end of this old discussion thread.

I just deleted it. I think I've made a decision, so I just deleted it. Happy Trails!