How do I replace wall covering in Perris Pacer???

[April Kelly]

Help! I have a vinyl type wall covering with a foam 2nd layer in my 1974 Perris Pacer. I have no idea what to replace it with or who I could hire to do the job. I don't even know what this stuff is called. I'm super new to this renovation!

[ValleyReb]

Originally Posted by April Kelly

Help! I have a vinyl type wall covering with a foam 2nd layer in my 1974 Perris Pacer. I have no idea what to replace it with or who I could hire to do the job. I don't even know what this stuff is called. I'm super new to this renovation!

Check my latest post:

Supplies
-AMERIQUE Laminate Flooring Underlayment Padding with Tape & Vapor Barrier 3-in-1 Heavy Foam 3 mm Thick, 200SQFT per Roll $37
- Marine waterproof carpet 200 sqft from Lowes - $150
-uxcell Car Sound Deadener Application Rolling Wheel Roller 5cm x 3.5cm $9
-3m 90 industrial spray adhesive $13/can 8 cans

I went with the underlayment padding because it is closed foam, provides the camper with a strong moisture/vapor barrier, mold and moisture protection, non allergenic, sound absorption, the bright blue look gives me some additional opacity to prevent light from penetrating, it has anti-crush technology for excellent performance and long life. It is perfect for fiberglass adhesion, 3mm closed foam technology for sound reduction, and a tiny bit of insulation. I don't see winter camping very often so it wasn't a concern for me.

TIP: I found that you must apply a coat of adhesive on both the wall and the foam and then the foam and the carpet for the adhesion to be strong enough.

[April Kelly]

You are awesome!!!! Thank you SO MUCH! Thank you for taking the time to give such detail! Are you covering the seams with anything or just matching them as closely as possible? Also, any reason you chose to use the flooring underlayment over the refectix like so many others seem to? It's really weird but the original fabric isn't glued to the fiberglass in mine. It's held up by the cabinetry and mouldings. I'm a little nervous to start gluing since it wasn't originally done that way but I don't think I could do it the same as the manufacturer. Here's a pic of it.

[k corbin]

It would certainly make for a faster and less expensive installation to not use glue but instead use compression from cabinets, window frames, etc. Also a lot easier on the respiratory health of the persons who did the installation.

As to being nervous about doing certain work. That is a perfectly normal emotional response. Most of us fear failing at a task, having it come out looking unprofessional. Most especially true for something we have not tried before. Research, patience, practice and pushing through the fear are what it takes.

Look on the bright side, you don't have to scrap old glue residue off the inside of the fiberglass shell as many of us have had to do. That is a very unpleasant chore and you are one lucky camper to get to avoid it.

[ValleyReb]

I am matching the seams and grain as closely as possible while trying to hide any seems in the odd recesses found in the camper. PATIENCE PATIENCE while I meticulously do this. I chose the underlayment because it offered me the same benefits as the reflectix material at about a quarter of the cost. I read through a lot of posts on this site along with doing my own research on the insulating/sound/mold/water protection and really didn't see a whole lot of difference other than expense and because everyone else was doing it that way. Didn't make sense to me, my opinion of course. Glad the info i gave you was helpful. Don't worry about screwing things up, you will mostly have to redo a thing here and there as you learn on the fly.