ParkLiner waste water leak - Fiberglass RV
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Old 10-15-2014, 08:50 AM   #1
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ParkLiner waste water leak

I posted about this a while back, and was advised to clean, dry and apply a two part epoxy. Well, if anything, the leak is worse. What aggravates me most is it never leaked before I left it at the ParkLiner factory for week!

So the leak is where the round outlet pipe attaches to the tank proper. Have other folks had this same problem and if so, what the heck causes it?

My outlet pipe is held up with thin metal strapping that is NOT tight to the fiberglass. Should it be tight, or should there be room for movement?

My two part epoxy repair did not work, but to be honest, I did not do a great job, as the epoxy was very difficult to mold around and press tightly to the seam. Having said that, am I looking at installing a whole new tank, or do RV shops know how to fix something like this permanently?

I will be bringing it into a local RV place soon for them to take a look at it, and just want to gain any advice, experience, or counsel before doing that. Even if I lived closer to the plant, I would NOT be bringing it back to ParkLiner!

Thanks for any help.

Frank
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Old 10-15-2014, 09:03 AM   #2
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You can hunt down an RV holding tank service (they do repairs) in your area that come to you and campgrounds. Two examples here

RV Holding Tank Cleaning San Antonio | Austin | Hill CountryRV Holding Tank Services

All Pro Water Flow
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Old 10-16-2014, 06:04 AM   #3
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That's okay. Tank is empty. I'll bring it to an RV place.

I was hoping to hear from other folks who have had this problem, and how it was resolved. I guess I'm the only one that this has happened to.

Frank
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Old 10-23-2014, 06:48 AM   #4
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If it's that milky white sort of greasy feeling material it's LDPE and almost nothing sticks to it. Certainly not epoxy.

It can be welded with special hot air tools.


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Old 10-23-2014, 06:52 AM   #5
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It's black Denny, but sounds like what you describe. I had one heck of a time getting the epoxy to stick, and I bet that's why.

I'll keep ya posted. The waste tank has been emptied, but I still need to winterize the water system. Soon...

Frank
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Old 10-23-2014, 07:21 AM   #6
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A shop should be able to plastic weld it.

Look up plastic welding.
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Old 10-23-2014, 07:35 AM   #7
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I did Danny, interesting. Normally I'm a do-it-yourself kind of guy, but I think I'll take this to somebody to do.

I still don't understand why it leaks. This is a 2012 trailer. Was it mounted incorrectly? The circular pipe is not mounted tight to the fiberglass. Should it be? I just don't want to get it fixed, then go through the same thing again. ParkLiner is no help, as I'm out of warranty, and they won't talk to me anyway.

Frank
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Old 10-23-2014, 07:52 AM   #8
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Sounds like it can be repaired but probably after removal. Check out YouTube on plastic tank repair. The tool they use is an inexpensive soldering iron and epoxy. Best of the best to you!

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Old 10-25-2014, 05:21 AM   #9
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I'm gonna try and remove it after breakfast and before we take off for a visit with in-laws for the weekend. To be honest, I'd rather be taking a waste water tank off than seeing my in-laws...

Frank
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Old 10-25-2014, 06:58 AM   #10
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So when the folks at ParkLiner installed the combined gray/black waste water tank they did it so it cannot be easily removed. Two tank stubs come up in each side of the trailer, and both have pvc fittings glued over top of them, making it nearly impossible to cut them off and have anything left to attach to. I guess I could cut above the glued on fittings, but the holes the stubs come through aren't big enough to have that extra width come through.





I would love to have some ideas as to how to disconnect these two stubs from interior plumbing in a way that would be easy to re-install after it's fixed. Or should I just buy a new tank?

Thanks,

Frank
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Old 10-25-2014, 08:37 AM   #11
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So my eye just caught this Oliver thread:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ver-66936.html

Oliver specifically makes their tanks easy to get out!

Looks more and more like ParkLiners a low life trailers...

Frank
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Old 10-25-2014, 08:42 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frank_a View Post

Looks more and more like ParkLiners a low life trailers...

Frank
That's a bit harsh IMHO. There's a HUGE difference between the Parkliner and the Oliver and it starts with price.
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Old 10-25-2014, 08:51 AM   #13
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Exactly! And it's not harsh at all, given the problems I've had both with the trailer and the factory. I like the trailer design, but that's about it!

See, that's what happens when you're limited by money.

Frank
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Old 10-25-2014, 08:57 AM   #14
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The tank is probably an off the shelf item and not specific to Parkliner so a replacement should be available once you figure out the company that made it. Then install new piping and secure it to prevent this from happening again. Just the kind of job us old guys with bad backs want isn't it Frank, laying underneath or twisted into some compartment to get at things. Time to get out the sawzall !
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Old 10-25-2014, 09:07 AM   #15
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Here is the answer but you may not like the price. Pipe Parana | The Parana Fish Tail I have used a forstner bits to clean old pipe out of old PVC fittings. Maybe you build a rig with a hole saw with a guide to cut the old fitting off. Looks like you may have enough pipe above the floor now to attach a rubber coupler. If you have the electric commode make sure the power to it is shut off or you could have a mess with the hose disconnected.
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Old 10-25-2014, 09:15 AM   #16
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Frank,

My waste tank which is black ABS had a leak at the 3" outlet where it joins the tank. It also had a hole drilled through it at the rear flat flange area. This was right out of the factory.

Per the factory, I sealed the flange and piping with ABS black heavy duty glue, two coats, and no further leaks from the flange. It is my understanding that the glue melts the adjacent parts and welds them together. I guessed not enough glue was used during assembly.

The hole in the flat flange area was probably done at the tank manufacturer to mark the center of both flat flange areas on the tank. The person doing it must have gotten a bit carried away with either a scratch awl or a drill. I repaired it by inserting a ss screw with a fender washer with a neoprene gasket bedded in ABS glue and over coated it with more glue.

No leaks so far.

The 2-5th wheels and the sob we have had also had lots of problems. Improperly installed storage doors, windows, bad converters, loose trim, and maybe mfg errors that lead to delamination. Every builder makes mistakes. My delam problem cost us over $8,000 in reduced trade value. Some are easy and cheap to fix, others costly.

Sorry you are having so many problems.

Lee
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Old 10-25-2014, 03:58 PM   #17
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My question is, are ABS and PVC normally considered to be compatible to be glued to each other ??
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Old 10-25-2014, 04:47 PM   #18
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No

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jane D. View Post
My question is, are ABS and PVC normally considered to be compatible to be glued to each other ??
NO PVC and ABS are not the same material They use different glue / solvents to join the pipe to pipe fittings Most plumbing codes do not allow the mixing of ABS and PVC in plumbing systems . They do make specific code approved fittings for connecting ABS and PVC but their use is limited by code
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Old 10-25-2014, 07:17 PM   #19
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Frank I know you don't like the choices, but I would say remove the tank, a new black water tank is about a $100 and just replace it, use the right parts and you know it will be good for years to come.

I know you are having issues but once you get them resolved you will know your ParkLiner so well you can fix anything that arises. Or sell it come spring time... but its always a toss up buying used... and even new. Yeah I wish I had the money for a new Escape 5th wheeler too...but that is gonna be a number of years down the road for me lol.
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Old 10-25-2014, 08:11 PM   #20
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So Lee, you have a ParkLiner & had this same problem?

This ABS black glue sounds interesting & might be an inexpensive alternative, I need to look into this more. Do you remember the specific brand of glue you used?

Figure the tank brand & model number are on the top of the tank where it can't be seen?

Thanks for the help!

Frank
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