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02-17-2014, 12:04 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Name: Carl
Trailer: 2013 Lil Snoozy #161 (SOLD)/2010 Tacoma
NE Oklahoma
Posts: 2,358
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The 110/12v unit would be good as it automatically switches
when hooked up to shore to 110. Then when unplugged runs
on 12v. The inverter would not be necessary for this unit.
So wouldn't want to wire to an inverter. Not necessary.
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02-17-2014, 12:13 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Name: Carl
Trailer: 2013 Lil Snoozy #161 (SOLD)/2010 Tacoma
NE Oklahoma
Posts: 2,358
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Gone with the Wynns Blog
Quote:
Originally Posted by blodn1
Jim, I believe it will be the Unisolar system of flexible solar panels. I've read that they are better than the rigid ones out of full sun. They're expensive, but with an all-electric trailer, the generator and the sun back each other up.
Here's a website: Solar Battery Charging Packages for RV, Boat & Off Grid Apps
When I went to the factory, Richard and I looked all over the trailer trying to decide where to drop the cables. They don't have to pierce the skin if the batteries are outside, so it's just an aesthetic and mechanical (maybe fiberglass them in) decision.
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From "Gone with the Wynns Blog"
We are having our new Flex Solar panels installed in Las Cruses next week and we can't hardly wait! We are heading into South Texas next (Marfa, Alpine, Big Bend) and plan on doing a solid amount of Dry Camping to fully test them out! Don't worry, well give a full report on how it all goes.
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02-17-2014, 12:23 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: Deborah
Trailer: Prius camping - want an Oliver
Virginia
Posts: 351
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Thanks Carl - I'm really impressed by what I've read about the Flex panels. Hoping Richard and crew can install them for me when I'm able to order the Lil Snoozy. And good news that the fridge doesn't have to run through the inverter.
__________________
I don't get lost, I go on interesting side trips.
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02-17-2014, 01:48 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Name: Denny
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Michigan
Posts: 552
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There would be no reason to run the fridge with an inverter. You would convert 12v DC to 120vac then the inverter built into the fridge would convert 120vac back to 12vdc, with efficiency losses at each conversion.
The AC or DC units make sense with the portable units as you could use them in your house.
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02-17-2014, 01:56 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Name: Denny
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Michigan
Posts: 552
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlkeigley
The 110/12v unit would be good as it automatically switches
when hooked up to shore to 110. Then when unplugged runs
on 12v. The inverter would not be necessary for this unit.
So wouldn't want to wire to an inverter. Not necessary.
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If you have a three stage battery charger you don't even need the 120AC feature on the fridge. When you are plugged in the charger will use 120vac to replace whatever 12vdc energy the fridge uses.
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02-17-2014, 04:20 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19
Oklahoma
Posts: 6,021
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That seemed like a high charge for shipping to me. But then I punched in an estimated size and weight on UPS, and the result was higher than that! So I guess it's actually pretty reasonable.
They say 2 amps per hour rating, so I would guess that in 95* or 100* weather it may run closer to that. Depending on where a person camped, I think worst case scenario would be the possibility that one might need to add one solar panel in extreme weather. All in all, this sounds like a great way to beat the warm-fridge blues.
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02-17-2014, 04:33 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Name: Carl
Trailer: 2013 Lil Snoozy #161 (SOLD)/2010 Tacoma
NE Oklahoma
Posts: 2,358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCDenny
If you have a three stage battery charger you don't even need the 120AC feature on the fridge. When you are plugged in the charger will use 120vac to replace whatever 12vdc energy the fridge uses.
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That's true.
But where does global warming figure in..............ROFL
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02-18-2014, 09:14 PM
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#28
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Member
Name: Keith
Trailer: Not yet
Florida
Posts: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlkeigley
The 110/12v unit would be good as it automatically switches
when hooked up to shore to 110. Then when unplugged runs
on 12v. The inverter would not be necessary for this unit.
So wouldn't want to wire to an inverter. Not necessary.
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Carl what unit are you speaking of? I am headed to LS this weekend and if the wife likes it, I may talk about an order. The lack of a 12v fridge is an issue for me so If I can pay LS a little more for a AC/DC fridge I would want that option.
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02-18-2014, 09:51 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: Former 13’Scamp, now Snoozy
Arizona
Posts: 2,316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flharleycop
Carl what unit are you speaking of? I am headed to LS this weekend and if the wife likes it, I may talk about an order. The lack of a 12v fridge is an issue for me so If I can pay LS a little more for a AC/DC fridge I would want that option.
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Denny Wolfe installed this Truckfridge TF 130 12 volt 4.2 C.F.
in his Lil Snoozy. I emailed Richard Micle at Lil Snoozy today to see if he would install this refrigerator in our ordered Snoozy, but no reply as of yet.
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02-18-2014, 10:19 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Name: Carl
Trailer: 2013 Lil Snoozy #161 (SOLD)/2010 Tacoma
NE Oklahoma
Posts: 2,358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flharleycop
Carl what unit are you speaking of? I am headed to LS this weekend and if the wife likes it, I may talk about an order. The lack of a 12v fridge is an issue for me so If I can pay LS a little more for a AC/DC fridge I would want that option.
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It's the same truck fridge Denny put in his snoozy
except it's dual voltage.
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02-19-2014, 03:21 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Name: Denny
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Michigan
Posts: 552
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Installing a 12v DC refrigerator in a Lil Snoozy
Quote:
Originally Posted by David B.
Denny Wolfe installed this Truckfridge TF 130 12 volt 4.2 C.F.
in his Lil Snoozy. I emailed Richard Micle at Lil Snoozy today to see if he would install this refrigerator in our ordered Snoozy, but no reply as of yet.
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I'm curious what Richard's response will be. Please keep us posted.
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02-19-2014, 05:33 PM
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#32
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Junior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 18
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I have been thinking about the same conversion for my Snoozy. Thank you for the instructions and the incentive to save up and by the fridge.
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02-19-2014, 09:46 PM
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#33
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Member
Name: Keith
Trailer: Not yet
Florida
Posts: 84
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When I visit LS and talk with Richard Friday I will ask him about the email and if they will do the fridge on purchase.
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02-20-2014, 08:17 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Name: Denny
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Michigan
Posts: 552
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Another important installation note: the fridge must be moved 3/4" out (toward the center of the trailer) to allow adequate adequate air flow in under the bottom, up the back and out over the top to cool the condenser.
It fits with the mounting flange fastened to the Snoozy cabinet face but the back bottom edge is nearly touching the wall, impeding much airflow. Because the snoozy walls are curved there is about 3" clearance at the top and I mistakenly assumed there would be clearance at the bottom as well. Not so.
The fridge was not slid all the way in when I first tested it and reported the 23ah in 24 hours power consumption. Yesterday I put some room temp food into the room temp fridge and turned it on. It ran continuously for two hours and the top was noticeably warm. After I moved it away from the wall 3/4" the compressor began to cycle on and off as expected. After an hour or so the top no longer felt warm.
We are off to camp tonight at Paynes Prairie near Gainesville Fl tonight. Even though we will be plugged into shore power there I'm going to leave the battery charger turned off and take notes on 12v consumption.
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02-21-2014, 07:35 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Name: Denny
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Michigan
Posts: 552
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Power consumption with the fridge running and other 12v loads measured while actually camping:
5:00 to 10:00 PM fridge opened and closed to make dinner plus two hours of fantastic fan plus led lights after 6:30. = 2.0 ah/h
10:00pm to 7:00 am. Just fridge running = 1.5 ah/h
7:00am to 10:00am fridge plus some lights plus some inverter/cell phone charger use = 2.4 ah/h.
Ambient temps were about 80F during day, 65F at night.
I'd guess our total usage would be around 50 amp-hours per day, depending on ambient temperature. At 50ah/d two days would use 45% of our battery bank, three days would take about 70%.
The tow vehicle fully charged the battery from -30ah plus offset the fridge usage in three hours driving.
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02-22-2014, 05:43 PM
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#36
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: 2012 Escape 19
Oklahoma
Posts: 6,021
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It's considered best to avoid discharging the battery below 50%, IIRC. So if dry camping for more than 2 days, a charge from some source would be preferable to maintain good battery condition.
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02-22-2014, 06:05 PM
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#37
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Senior Member
Name: Denny
Trailer: Lil Snoozy
Michigan
Posts: 552
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Another data point: 24 hours, 65F at night, 80 during the day, no shade. A couple of hours of lights, four hours of the inverter charging cell phones. 47 ah used.
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02-23-2014, 10:21 AM
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#38
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Member
Name: Keith
Trailer: Not yet
Florida
Posts: 84
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McDenny
I was at LS Friday speaking to Richard about the LS. One of my wants is the 12v fridge option. Richard said he was looking into it and spoke very highly of you and how knowledgable you were on the issue. I felt he has some great ideas for LS and is going to bring it to the next level. He said the they we're check the LS power /wiring etc. to assure the fridge will work with the current set up. I thought he said he was checking on the Norcold but not sure?
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02-23-2014, 03:58 PM
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#39
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Junior Member
Name: Absolute Beginner
Trailer: N/A at this time
Virginia
Posts: 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCDenny
The fridge was $599 plus $100 shipping. I didn't order the $50 extra flange kit but they shipped it anyway. Glad they did as it made it very easy to secure the refrigerator. (And a lot better than the three lag bolts through the sides of the Magic Chef).
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I really apologize for my ignorance, but what was your main purpose in replacing the Magic Chef refrigerator in your Lil Snoozy? It sounds as if the original unit failed. However, it also sounds like it gave you a good couple of years of service. You paid $700 for the 12v fridge. I commonly see those dormer style refrigerators at Lowes and Home Depot for $150. I could buy 4 of them for the price of the single 12v unit. I could just throw out the old one when it failed and slot in a new one. Doesn't this seem more economical?
Can you please explain your reason for going 12v?
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02-23-2014, 04:34 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: Former 13’Scamp, now Snoozy
Arizona
Posts: 2,316
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Beginner, the reason that we had replaced our 3 way refrigerator in our Scamp, and will be doing so in our new Lil Snoozy, is the fact that it is sooo simple to use. It connects directly to the battery, uses very little amp hours to run, cool/ freezes very fast upon startup (no matter what the arizona temp is), is able to be run while traveling, does not have to be level to operate, has a larger C.F. interior than a 3-way, and does not need venting to the outside. We rarely camp where electricity (110 volt) is available, and I am not wild about using a generator (no matter how "quiet" they are supposed to be).
Hope this helps.
Dave & Paula
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