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10-24-2017, 12:56 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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Thanks Fran....wish I could go straight to it. I'd pick some up this weekend. But I will Google it and check their website and see if I can find some. If anyone else knows what it is, if you could post it here, it would be appreciated. If I find it (the name) I will do the same. I know the wife will love it as well. Personally, I dont care if it's 1/2" or so thick.
But again, thanks for the pics and idea.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Franswa
I wish I could remember the name....got these at Home Depot....
12x12 squares click together....less than a quarter of an inch thick
(used the same product in a cockpit of a sailboat for years and loved it...so when I got the trailer I realized right away something was needed in bathroom and it HAD TO BE THIN !....you'd probably find it at a marine store too if that was more convenient)
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10-24-2017, 01:50 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,415
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Darral; look up "drainage tiles" or "dry deck" for the shower floor. Amazon has it. How did you cut the opening of your bushing tool. I have a milling machine and have been thinking about how I would do it.
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10-24-2017, 02:23 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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Thanks Bob! So far I found these...kinda wish they were "rubber" but we could add some rubber bumpers or something if I'm concerned about scratching the gelcoat from the shower pan. https://www.rubberflooringinc.com/in...loc-tiles.html
As far as the tool. I've included my drawing of the entire tool (a PDF attachment at the bottom of this post) if you want to use it. I lay it out on the alum sheet first and rough saw cut it in. Then I set it where I can machine the two uprights vertically...looking like a slingshot in the vice. Then you can rotate it and parallel your other 2 lines of the hex to the vice. I have it designed so an endmill can flat mill the two angles...one at a time of course. You wont have to rotate the head or anything. It will be accurate enough. AND, it will miss the uprights- BARELY. I can make a simple sketch if you need me to of how it would look as it cuts. I wont bore the forum with other details but feel free to ask away and I'll help if I can. My "mods" are usually not "simple" But I LOVE to come up with ideas and make things.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob
Darral; look up "drainage tiles" or "dry deck" for the shower floor. Amazon has it. How did you cut the opening of your bushing tool. I have a milling machine and have been thinking about how I would do it.
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10-24-2017, 04:47 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,415
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Darrel, impressive tool for sure. I'm fine with using a deep socket, but have a couple sets of crowfoots if needed. I was quite interested in how you machined that tool, been a long time since I worked in a machine shop, and have only used my old Timken milling machine a couple times.
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10-25-2017, 09:07 PM
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#25
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Member
Name: Marcia
Trailer: Bigfoot
Colorado
Posts: 50
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nylon drain plug atwood hot water heater
I flushed out my 17ft bigfoot water system today and discovered a 12" channel lock brand pliers worked well on the nylon plug and I could turn it about 1/4 turn before resetting the tool. I sprayed some silicone lub first and figured out the pliers only fit in one direction and had just enough clearance for the tight spot. The hollow inside of the plug was full on a white paste of calcium and guessing this is also inside my heater, probably needs more TLC, but at least it got a good flush for now.
After flushing, tried to clean up the metal female threads and the nylon threads of some of the dried up sediment, the plug went in pretty tight and now has a tiny leak, but I am bit scared to try and tighten it any more. I am going to get a new plug on order, see if that fixes the leak. The plug is probably original from 2004 and I do not want brittle nylon plug to break and get stuck in the threads.
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10-26-2017, 07:11 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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Just remember before you guys order HIGH $$ nylon plugs, you can get them at your local tractor supply store (TSC)!!
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...t?cm_vc=-10005
You may not have read my posts "MC" but I did recommend nylon (edit: TEFLON) tape on ALL plugs. I ordered some of my original plugs from US Plastics and they were very "hard" nylon and I couldnt stop them from completely dripping. That's when I went to the TEFLON tape and havent looked back- yes TEFLON tape on the nylon plugs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmars
After flushing, tried to clean up the metal female threads and the nylon threads of some of the dried up sediment, the plug went in pretty tight and now has a tiny leak, but I am bit scared to try and tighten it any more. I am going to get a new plug on order, see if that fixes the leak. The plug is probably original from 2004 and I do not want brittle nylon plug to break and get stuck in the threads.
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10-26-2017, 10:04 AM
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#27
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Member
Name: Marcia
Trailer: Bigfoot
Colorado
Posts: 50
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Nylon tape??
Is this same as teflon tape? Or maybe teflon thread paste works?
Not sure what nylon tape is, maybe you have a link? Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T.
Just remember before you guys order HIGH $$ nylon plugs, you can get them at your local tractor supply store (TSC)!!
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...t?cm_vc=-10005
You may not have read my posts "MC" but I did recommend nylon tape on ALL plugs. I ordered some of my original plugs from US Plastics and they were very "hard" nylon and I couldnt stop them from completely dripping. That's when I went to the nylon tape and havent looked back- yes nylon tape on the nylon plugs.
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10-26-2017, 10:08 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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MY BAD...sorry about that!! Good catch... Youre exactly right- TEFLON tape. For what it's worth, on my Flickr links I do specify "teflon tape".
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-0...s-Tape/4751313
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmars
Is this same as teflon tape? Or maybe teflon thread paste works?
Not sure what nylon tape is, maybe you have a link? Thanks!
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10-26-2017, 11:01 AM
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#29
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Member
Name: Marcia
Trailer: Bigfoot
Colorado
Posts: 50
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awesome!
I ordered some attwood plugs on amazon last night and will wait till I get new plug that might not be brittle before I install new plugs with teflon tape.
I like your link for the cheaper plugs, but I did notice the reviews on the attwood plug included several comments that some people think the non OEM plugs did not fit as well as the attwood plug (?). I also ordered the cheap ($6) hot water flush attachment amazon had linked together with the plug, so I get a proper flush of the tank next week.
The prior owner said she never really used the water heater much and by passed the tank. When she first went out to test things few days before I bought TT, the kitchen sink faucet would not work. She removed the faucet screen and it was full of calcium build up obstructing the flow. She said she had really hard water and I know many campgrounds near my area do as well. From the look of the white paste of build up I saw in the tank plug, I bet I will flush out a ton of calcium build up from the tank?? I wonder if you can add a bit of vineger or CLR to the fresh water tank and let it sit for a bit, then flush, for a good system clean out?? Might be a bit caustic and cause some leaks or damage??
BTW, I found a 15X15" Sterling (kohler made) stainless steel bar sink with cheap glacier bay faucet at local thrift store. I am going to replace the old smaller plastic sink and faucet soon. I found this nice Delta faucet on amazon for $37 as it was a "very good" return item : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Really impressed with the quality of the Delta faucet, all metal and brass. Amazon really marks the return faucets down, had same experience when I did kitchen remodel few years ago, guess it is hard for them to resell returns on bath/kitchen fixtures, so it is a great deal when they have them. Just need to jig saw out an inch from both sides of counter cut out, hook up new supply lines/drain and silicone it down. Maybe I take some pics and will post the sink/faucet relacement for others to see issues and procedure.
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10-26-2017, 12:27 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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The ONLY thing was the "harder" nylon plugs tended to leak no matter how tight- that's when I went to Teflon tape. Since I replace my nylon bushings often, I'll go the cheaper route and use the tape.
I posted a link to TSC. In reality, this link below is where I ordered about 5 of each...the 1/2" to 1/4" nylon reducer bushing and the plugs. If you scroll down, they even have the PDF for the specs etc. This is what I went by to make sure they could stand the hot water temps. I dont remember the shipping right off hand. Honestly, this is before I discovered that TSC carried them as well. Between tax and/or shipping, it's probably a wash since TSC's are a little more expensive. Plus, you dont have to buy but a couple at a time. Either way, they both will work...so will Amazon's..very pricey though!
I also have the "wand". Be careful when you turn it on. The high water pressure will cause the long tube to bend upwards and spray everything in sight! Ask me how I know!
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcmars
I like your link for the cheaper plugs, but I did notice the reviews on the attwood plug included several comments that some people think the non OEM plugs did not fit as well as the attwood plug (?).
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10-26-2017, 03:03 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon2
OIC
Well it probably takes about 5% or less as much propane to heat enough water on the stove for most things, as it does to heat six gallons in the inefficient water heater (ever feel how much heat comes out of the vent on it?).
And there is a big difference between showering in your camper vs. a Scamp. And in a Scamp with a side bath, most men will struggle to fit inside even. So the water heater in a Scamp makes less sense than in larger campers.
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We have a Scamp13 with a front bath which we use twice a day when traveling. The shower is comfortable and it is nice to have the hot water blended with the cold through the showerhead at a comfortable temperature rather than washing with one hand while pouring boiling water from a teapot over my body!
Once the water is heated in my water heater which has a pilot, the pilot will keep it hot until some water is used then it will reheat water to recovery temperature as efficiently as the stove will heat cold water in a pan.
In fact the water heater is so efficient that I have enjoyed a hot shower more than a full day after shutting it off.
It is hard to see the logic about the size of the Travel Trailer effecting the efficiency of the same water heater.
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10-27-2017, 07:34 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Name: Tom
Trailer: Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 864
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Darral, is this what you were looking for? They're 12" square tiles. Flexible and snap together. They can be trimmed to any size. West Marine is the only place I know of that sells them individually. Link:
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/dri-d...9618-_-2617611
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10-28-2017, 07:15 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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Thanks Tom. SO far- for the money- I've found these. I'm just waiting to look at some local stores before ordering. These will cover 5.5 sq. ft and $14.99 for a box. $7 shipping of course. The marine ones does look nicer though.
[QUOTE=TomK;669528]Darral, is this what you were looking for? They're 12" square tiles. Flexible and snap together. They can be trimmed to any size. West Marine is the only place I know of that sells them individually. Link:
/QUOTE]
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