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09-10-2018, 11:45 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: becky
Trailer: burro
Maine
Posts: 8
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burro roof leak
Hi, I'm looking for advice on how best to seal/coat the roof of my '82 Burro. Does anyone have any experience with products or methods for doing so?
There is about a 1 square foot area seeping moisture through the fiberglass because the roof is thinning from UV exposure, but I would like to preventively coat the whole rooftop if possible.
I am unsure whether something like 3M Gelcoat Marine products would be sufficient, or if I need to do some serious roof fiberglassing (which I would prefer to avoid).
Thank you for any help!
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09-10-2018, 12:55 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
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When it comes to making repairs with products that have special application instructions it is best to go always follow the instructions that come with the product. For instance here is a link to one companies Gel Coat Repair 101 instructions. If you go to youtube they also have a couple of videos showing DIY https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...t.do?docId=257
It is fairly typical now that companies put out video instructions on how to do the repairs the products are made for.
There can be variations in the instructions from one companies product to another. That is why you need to stick to the instructions for the product you purchase for the repair. Some of them do come in a kit.
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09-11-2018, 09:16 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: Bigfoot
Alberta
Posts: 211
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roof leak
i used bed liner it will last for years .the raptor brand is tintable .or get a shop to do it.
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09-11-2018, 08:10 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Name: becky
Trailer: burro
Maine
Posts: 8
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Thank you for the advice K corbin, and for pointing me in a direction with the link. I read through the instructions for that brand of product and the process sounds like something I could do to fix the area and coat the whole roof...if I wanted to go that route.
Although I could use that product (even if it was merely and example), I'm feeling a bit lazy and overwhelmed about getting into a process that involves that many steps. It may be what I decide to do after weighing my cost options, but I'll keep researching and thinking about it.
If I do try to tackle a gel coating procedure, I'll be sure to follow the specific instructions for the product I choose and seek out videos, rather than mixing products with procedures I read about elsewhere. Thanks, again.
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09-11-2018, 08:18 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Name: becky
Trailer: burro
Maine
Posts: 8
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Thanks MAP 56. I had considered this option, but I hadn't heard of anyone trying it on a fiberglass rv, so I wasn't sure if it could work, as far as adhesion and durability over time goes.
Did you apply the liner yourself? If so, do you remember what kind of prep you did to the fiberglass surface of your bigfoot roof? I am curious whether simply sanding over the area to be sprayed and then cleaning the surface with soap and water is all that would be required for prep, or whether I would need to coat the fiberglass with something specific to allow for better adhesion of the bed liner spray.
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09-11-2018, 08:22 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
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We had a similar leak on the roof of our Uhaul. A drip right through the fiberglass, not at the seam. I just mixed up some resin and brushed it over the area on the roof where the leak was. Didn't get too fussy because it can't be seen from the ground.
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09-11-2018, 08:31 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Kelly
Trailer: Trails West
Oregon
Posts: 3,047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burrowingowl
Thank you for the advice K corbin, and for pointing me in a direction with the link. I read through the instructions for that brand of product and the process sounds like something I could do to fix the area and coat the whole roof...if I wanted to go that route.
Although I could use that product (even if it was merely and example), I'm feeling a bit lazy and overwhelmed about getting into a process that involves that many steps. It may be what I decide to do after weighing my cost options, but I'll keep researching and thinking about it.
If I do try to tackle a gel coating procedure, I'll be sure to follow the specific instructions for the product I choose and seek out videos, rather than mixing products with procedures I read about elsewhere. Thanks, again.
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You could patch the obvious spots first. Take small bites of the project if you feel overwhemed by the total size of it.
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09-13-2018, 12:43 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Name: becky
Trailer: burro
Maine
Posts: 8
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I got a quote from Line-X for $1,000 to have their spray-on bed liner applied to the burro roof. Not going to happen. I was expecting a ridiculous amount so I wasn't surprised, but come on, this roof is teeny.
I will likely take the resin patch approach for now. Maybe then apply a tintable bed liner (Durabak or Raptor brands) to the entire roof myself as a more permanent fix down the road.
Thanks very much mary and bob, k corbin, and MAP 56.
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09-13-2018, 02:06 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
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Becky; look at Grizzly Grip (grizzlygrip.com). They mention trailer roof repair for their product. It's available in several colors. I put it on the lower front of our Uhaul to cover some damage repair. I used a small paint roller. It's not very thick. I believe you have to call them to order it.
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09-13-2018, 03:35 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: 1979 Boler 1700
Michigan
Posts: 2,048
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The gelcoat on your roof is failing. To restore it, sand and clean the old gelcoat, then apply either new gelcoat or a one or 2 part marine polyurethane paint such as Interlux Brightsides or Interlux Perfection. This is how old marine fiberglass (above the waterline) is restored when the gelcoat fails.
Gelcoat is tinted resin which provide protection to the underlying fiberglass.
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09-14-2018, 07:17 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: Lite House
Posts: 282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob
Becky; look at Grizzly Grip (grizzlygrip.com). They mention trailer roof repair for their product. It's available in several colors. I put it on the lower front of our Uhaul to cover some damage repair. I used a small paint roller. It's not very thick. I believe you have to call them to order it.
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Tell me about that awesome battery box.
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09-14-2018, 09:17 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davie B
Tell me about that awesome battery box.
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It's a storage box, advertised as "weatherproof" not necessarily totally waterproof, but never had any water get in it as the lid has a large overlap. It's made by NRS in Canada, called a Canyon Box. About $175.
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09-14-2018, 09:35 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Gordon
Trailer: 2015 Scamp (16 Std Layout 4) with '15 Toyota Sienna LE Tug
North Carolina
Posts: 5,155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davie B
Tell me about that awesome battery box.
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It does not appear to be vented. Perhaps appearances are deceptive, or it has an AGM battery.
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09-14-2018, 12:17 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gordon2
It does not appear to be vented. Perhaps appearances are deceptive, or it has an AGM battery.
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It is NOT a battery box, there is no battery in it !! It is not sold as or intended to be a battery box.
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09-17-2018, 11:38 AM
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#15
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Junior Member
Name: becky
Trailer: burro
Maine
Posts: 8
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Mary and bob, thanks for the photo. That method of application looks like it went on very nicely! Did you prep the surface by sanding, then use acetone, then apply the grizzly grip with a roller? Or did you skip the acetone step? I'd like to skip it if it isn't necessary...
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09-17-2018, 01:11 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
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I probably sanded the surface a little. I have some automotive paint thinner or reducer on hand so I wiped it down with that. I used a 4" roller and cheap disposable paint brush. I did two coats. The Grizzly Grip has some grit in it that gives a rough finish. It's been on a few years and has held up good.
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09-19-2018, 12:09 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Stephen
Trailer: Casita
Tennessee
Posts: 220
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Roof Failure
The primary reason for roof failure is flexing of the frame which, when transmitted to the roof, damages it. Trailer frames are adequate at best for highway travel, but inadequate to withstand the stresses of boondocking. Then, over time they rust out from the inside out which causes more flexing and more roof damage. Any roof sealing you do now is merely temporary unless the core problem of frame flexing is addressed first. Caveat Emptor
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09-19-2018, 02:48 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: Lite House
Posts: 282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob
It is NOT a battery box, there is no battery in it !! It is not sold as or intended to be a battery box.
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Thanks, but even without venting it might work for a SLA or LiON battery?
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09-19-2018, 02:49 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: Lite House
Posts: 282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen_Albers
The primary reason for roof failure is flexing of the frame which, when transmitted to the roof, damages it. Trailer frames are adequate at best for highway travel, but inadequate to withstand the stresses of boondocking. Then, over time they rust out from the inside out which causes more flexing and more roof damage. Any roof sealing you do now is merely temporary unless the core problem of frame flexing is addressed first. Caveat Emptor
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On my long term list of upgrades is replacing the current frame and axel and lifting the LiteHouse to ride on tires larger than the current 8 inchers.
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09-19-2018, 04:05 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davie B
Thanks, but even without venting it might work for a SLA or LiON battery?
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At it's price of $165 or so there is no way I would make holes in it for wires to a battery. I did not even drill holes in the bottom to bolt it down. Found an alternate way of securing it by threaded rod and electrical conduit using the existing holes in the handles. Note that NRS makes a similar but smaller box.
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