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07-26-2015, 02:00 AM
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#21
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Member
Name: Carol & Jim
Trailer: New 2015 16' Scamp
Georgia
Posts: 33
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WOW! I really wanted to know how most of y'all did your cooking; wasn't concerned about blowing up. I have a 40 lb propane tank with a tree; lantern on top, long tube to Coleman stove with pressure regulator, and the last to a grill. I hate those useless small green tanks that are good for one meal; plan on getting a generator down the road. We live on the top of a ridge just below Black Rock State Park, been hit by lightening 2x in past 2 weeks, get plenty cold with occasional ice storms and are tired of worrying about contents of freezer. We are used to every critter God made down South and have always behaved accordingly. Really appreciate all the responses and I know the DH wants electricity for his coffee, microwave and toaster.
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07-26-2015, 02:19 AM
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#22
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Member
Name: Carol & Jim
Trailer: New 2015 16' Scamp
Georgia
Posts: 33
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I have edited my last message to say THANK YOU to everyone who gave a thoughtful response, and I planned to leave it in for resale. Handy for my teakettle, and soup! Anyway, the edited message never worked-did before.
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07-27-2015, 01:22 PM
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#23
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Member
Name: Steve in NY
Trailer: Scamp
New York
Posts: 83
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Vanderscamper.....glad you found the info useful. I will just add for anyone visiting in the future that if you forgo ordering the stove, and wish to put it in later, there is the issue of running a propane line. Doable, but not fun. The stove is handy. And if you don't like the heat, put in a fan. I just installed and MaxAir and it's amazing how it takes the humidity out of the air.
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07-27-2015, 01:35 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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I didnt buy a furnace to go in my Scamp when I bought it new. Sometimes, I wonder if that will hurt the resale when I get ready to sell it. I could install one, but I can see it would be a big pain. With my stovetop, when I removed it, I capped off the copper line and it's still there. So I can still use my propane for my fridge and WH. BUT, if I sell it, yep, all I have to do is stick the "guts" back in my stove and it's good to go.
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07-27-2015, 03:09 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Name: Wayne
Trailer: Casita
Connecticut
Posts: 132
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Stove Removal
Hey Carol & Jim,
My wife and I will always cook outside when possible. Last year we spent a week at Big Meadow Camground in the Shenandoah National Park the last week of October. It was an unusually cold and windy week, I attempted to cook outside on our Coleman stove. It seemed that no matter which way I positioned it the wind greatly reduced it's efficiency and standing out there wasn't a ton of fun. We ended up cooking all our meals inside and was glad to have the option.
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07-27-2015, 03:36 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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Humidity Removal?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve in NY
I just installed and MaxAir and it's amazing how it takes the humidity out of the air.
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Not to be a picky science guy, but I don't think that a fan can have any significant effect on the amount of water content (aka Humidity) in the air.
Moving air over a body might provide some cooling, but the water content will stay the same. A dehumidifier works basically like a small a/c to take water out of the air.
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07-27-2015, 03:55 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Name: Sarah
Trailer: 1984 13' Scamp named "Ramblin Rose"
Texas
Posts: 158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darral T.
I have the stove and REMOVED IT.
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I also removed mine, but I did a complete job of it and I don't intend to replace it.... sure the stoves themselves are cheap enough, but I really couldn't imagine cooking in such a tiny space - because if weather really is too bad to cook outside and all four (or five) of us were forced inside the camper, it just couldn't work - we'd just have sandwiches If I wanted hot water for breakfast/coffee without going outside, I can use my jetboil and I am not too worried that the 2 minutes of burning that inside the camper are really risky - not compared to the 5-10 minutes it would take on a traditional stove.
My regular camping stove fits neatly inside my tongue box along with my 5lb propane tank and supply line (plus wheel chocks - my AGM batteries are relocated, no longer on the tongue).
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07-27-2015, 06:50 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Name: Kathy
Trailer: 2017 Escape 19
Washington
Posts: 600
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Vanderscamper - as you can see from all the responses, there's no consensus on this issue. A lot will depend on how you camp and what kind of cooking you like to do. Also on what size trailer you end up getting. My husband and I would never give up our propane stove top, nor our oven for that matter. Our trailer is 17' and we have a nice bit of counter space so we don't have to really give up anything to have our stove like one might have to do in a smaller trailer. Here are the reasons I like being able to cook inside with propane:
I can cook without the hassle of carting everything outside to do it and then carting everything back inside when I'm through. I like to get up in the morning, put on the kettle to heat hot water for coffee and then lounge around in my pjs while I drink it. I like being able to make a quick cup of coffee/tea or heat up soup on a lunch stop. I hate cooking outside in the cold, wind and rain! I don't like swatting mosquitoes or dodging yellow jackets while I try to cook! I like the flexibility of being able to camp with or without hook-ups (and no noisy generator). I like the convenience of a fully equipped indoor kitchen when on an extended trip. A camp stove might be fun for a weekend, but for two months maybe not so much.
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07-27-2015, 07:02 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: Carl
Trailer: 2015 Escape 5.0TA
Florida
Posts: 1,691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller
Not to be a picky science guy, but I don't think that a fan can have any significant effect on the amount of water content (aka Humidity) in the air.
Moving air over a body might provide some cooling, but the water content will stay the same. A dehumidifier works basically like a small a/c to take water out of the air.
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Picky, picky, picky.......but correct. The only way a fan could reduce humidity is by blowing humid air out and sucking dryer outside air in, if the outside air is dryer. That would effectively "reduce" the humidity within the enclosed space of a trailer, but in reality it doesn't actually reduce the humidity, it only displaces it to another location.
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
__________________
What a long strange trip it’s been!
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07-28-2015, 06:42 AM
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#30
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Senior Member
Name: Sarah
Trailer: 1984 13' Scamp named "Ramblin Rose"
Texas
Posts: 158
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evergreengirl
A camp stove might be fun for a weekend, but for two months maybe not so much.
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This is another place where opinions vary and the quality of the stove you choose also makes a difference. I've cooked with ours for extended amounts of time - it may help that mine is a high powered one (more BTU's than even a cooktop inside the camper would put out - it rivals my cooktop at home) so I'm not feeling "limited" by what it can do, nor is it particularly inconvenient.
The longest I've cooked exclusively on it was well over a month, and I could have gone longer, no problem.
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07-28-2015, 07:59 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 905
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If you base it on money and weight savings, I don't think that either will add up to that much. A stop top doesn't weigh that much. Now, a stove does weigh quite a bite when you have an oven though.
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07-28-2015, 09:02 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
Posts: 11,925
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Might want to check with Scamp... I vaguely recall seeing a unit in which the owner had omitted either the stove or the sink- can't remember which- and there way a slight raised bump in the countertop where the cutout would have been. Could be wrong, but if so, that would bother me...
Another option (assuming the countertop is smooth) would be to leave out both sink and stove, but have all the rough plumbing in place. You could install one of the recessed SMEV combo units. Wide open counter, but there if you need it. Downside is cost- they don't come cheap, and I doubt you'll get much of a credit from Scamp.
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07-28-2015, 09:20 AM
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#33
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Member
Name: Steve in NY
Trailer: Scamp
New York
Posts: 83
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[QUOTE=CPW;537831]Picky, picky, picky.......but correct. The only way a fan could reduce humidity is by blowing humid air out and sucking dryer outside air in, if the outside air is dryer. That would effectively "reduce" the humidity within the enclosed space of a trailer, but in reality it doesn't actually reduce the humidity, it only displaces it to another location.]
That's what I meant. No doubt cooking inside raises the humidity inside. If you open the windows a crack and turn up the MaxAir, it's a non-event.
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07-28-2015, 09:56 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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I think that the discussion was about being able to sleep in high humidity conditions, not about sleeping while the husband was cooking dinner.... LOLOLOL
My experience is that humidity does not often drop after the sun goes down.
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07-28-2015, 10:21 AM
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#35
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Moderator
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
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Well if you have a furnace and 3 way refrigerator then you probably won't want to eliminate the propane line because that is the most efficient way to run the refrigerator off grid. If it has none of these and no stove why not just buy a project camper that is just a shell?
I too take the old Coleman stove and cook on it or over a fire (did the same when I used a 38 ft. motor home with stove & oven) BUT removing the stove takes the camper out of the category of being "complete" kitchen to being a "stripped" to point of not being a kitchen. Which while it might suit your needs will probably hurt the resale value an inordinate amount. Even pop-ups and teardrops have kitchens. Way too easy to drop a cover or cutting board on stove so it becomes just more counter space in your use.
If you are ever traveling across country and want to be able to just pull in someplace, crash for the night, brew a cup in the morning and hit the road not having to set up the camp stove will come in handy for making that cup of go juice in the morning or a can of soup in the evening. Walmart parking lot, rest area or just a single night in a campground on the way are all situations where having a stove inside might prove useful. And built in is a whole lot safer than liquid fuel or small propane bottle rigs set up on the counter.
If your ordering camper then I would say the teeny, tiny amount of discount on the price of a new camper for no stove makes it totally pointless to remove it for cost saving purposes. If you can use a Coleman camp stove then using the one in the camper will be easier not harder so certainly not an issue. I say order stove with the optional cover and call it good.
Edit: Feel free to ignore what I say.... I'm married so totally used to it. DW proves me wrong about 1/2 the time, and right about 1/2 the time.
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07-28-2015, 10:39 AM
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#36
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Moderator
Trailer: 2009 19 ft Escape / 2009 Honda Pilot
Posts: 6,224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller
Not to be a picky science guy, but I don't think that a fan can have any significant effect on the amount of water content (aka Humidity) in the air.
Moving air over a body might provide some cooling, but the water content will stay the same. A dehumidifier works basically like a small a/c to take water out of the air.
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Yeah, way too picky.
I do as Darral described, and use my fan to move air out of the trailer, which reduces the humidity of the air inside substantially. This is the main purpose for a stove or bath fan, to remove potentially damaging moisture, not to rid the space of odour.
__________________
2017 Escape 5.0 TA
2015 Ford F150 Lariat 3.5L EcoBoost
2009 Escape 19 (previous)
“Most folks are about as happy as they make up their minds to be.” — Abraham Lincoln
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07-28-2015, 10:53 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Trailer: Class A Motorhome
Posts: 7,912
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One needs to travel in humid areas to appreciate my point.
Sucking in outside air at 85% humidity is not going to reduce the inside air below 85%. I think that we are talking about air exchange fans, like a Max Air fan., not dinky vent fans in bathrooms and kitchen hoods.
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07-28-2015, 01:30 PM
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#38
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Moderator
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller
One needs to travel in humid areas to appreciate my point.
Sucking in outside air at 85% humidity is not going to reduce the inside air below 85%. I think that we are talking about air exchange fans, like a Max Air fan., not dinky vent fans in bathrooms and kitchen hoods.
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Fan will not reduce the humidity below the ambient BUT it will prevent humidity inside the camper from being higher than ambient humidity . A real possibility with breathing, sweating, cooking, open beverages etc. (etc. includes wet dog)
We use evaporation of sweat to cool our bodies, moving air through the camper will both speed that evaporation lowering our temperature and avoid that sweat adding to the ambient humidity.
I would add in one other plus for a vent fan, pulling air in from under the shade tarp or awning. The air temp in the shade is considerably lower than in the sun. One non-AC house cooling system simply pulled air from under the roof soffits, just that little bit of shade was several degrees cooler.
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07-28-2015, 05:28 PM
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#39
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Junior Member
Name: Bea
Trailer: Scamp
Florida
Posts: 18
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Great idea Darral - excellent use of the space after you took out the cooktop!
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07-28-2015, 10:28 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Trailer: No Trailer Yet
Posts: 1,704
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Thanks for the kind words Beak.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beak
Great idea Darral - excellent use of the space after you took out the cooktop!
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