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07-29-2014, 12:45 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: Tracey
Trailer: Boler 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 28
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Fiberglass Cutting and Cleanest Tool to Use
I would like to cut down another inch of my boler closet fiberglass behind the door without removing the cabinet. Which would be the best and cleanest tools to use and type of blade. Any suggestions would be very helpful. Thanks
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07-29-2014, 12:57 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,861
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A multi tool, Harbor Freight sells a cheap one. I use the half round blade or you can use a a metal cutting type blade. Hold a Shop Vac hose next to the blade while cutting to capture most of the dust.
Eddie
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalog...q=multi%20tool
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07-29-2014, 02:52 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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The absolute cleanest cut and maximum control comes from using a Dremel 565 Mulit-Purpose Cutting Kit 565D. Amazon Sells them.
I was totally amazed at how easy it was to control and how smooth a cut it made.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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07-29-2014, 03:01 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: U-Haul VT16
Posts: 982
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Jigsaw
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07-29-2014, 03:23 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 1300
Cumberland, Indiana
Posts: 392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mszabo
Jigsaw
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I've tried a jigsaw, it seems to want to chip out on the edges, even with a metal cutting blade. I've used the oscillating type tool that Eddie suggested with very good success, providing a really clean cut, easy to control. Haven't tried the attachment for a Dremel tool that Byron suggested but it looks like it might work cleanly also, similar to a roto-zip tool for cutting electrical boxes in drywall.
My 2 cents!
Spanke
__________________
Trilliums Rock!
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07-29-2014, 03:40 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1971 Boler
Posts: 998
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I used a angle grinder for any fiberglass mods I have made. Use masking tape as a guide and it goes real easy.
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07-29-2014, 03:51 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: Toyota Sunrader and 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest
A multi tool, Harbor Freight sells a cheap one. I use the half round blade or you can use a a metal cutting type blade. Hold a Shop Vac hose next to the blade while cutting to capture most of the dust.
Eddie
Search results for: 'multi tool'
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Yesterday I cut a hole for a storage compartment access door under the dining seat on a Casita I'm refurbishing for sale.
I've cut many holes in fiberglass with the above tool.
It's a very clean cut.
I don't make a habit of buying H F electrical tools but for the limited use it gets I don't see the necessity for buying a more expensive tool.
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07-29-2014, 04:59 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spanke
I've tried a jigsaw, it seems to want to chip out on the edges, even with a metal cutting blade. I've used the oscillating type tool that Eddie suggested with very good success, providing a really clean cut, easy to control. Haven't tried the attachment for a Dremel tool that Byron suggested but it looks like it might work cleanly also, similar to a roto-zip tool for cutting electrical boxes in drywall.
My 2 cents!
Spanke
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I purchased and used that tool to cut a hole in bench to mount a propane detector. Looking at what Scamp and what I did will make a firm believer of you. The edges are perfectly smooth. There is no chipping at all. The only draw back is there's a lot of fine dust created. I was worried about control and cutting a line drawn with a sharpie. The control was great, no tendency to wander. I really surprised that none of you discovered this tool and how easy it is to use.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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07-29-2014, 06:06 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,547
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I just happen to own the finest oscillating tool extent, the Fein. And I used it, once, to cut a hole in my Scamp. After that experience I have used a jigsaw each time hence. The Fein worked superbly but was painfully slow and created a ton of very fine dust. The jigsaw, with suitable blade, works great and is quick and controllable. I also have the HF oscillating tool and can say that it is a best buy for what they get for it. I have it as a “loaner” or to have out on the job because I am not taking my eyes off my Fein.
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07-29-2014, 06:45 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: 1983 scamp 13
Florida
Posts: 21
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Any of these tools will work but you will want a carbide grit blade to cut with. It will cut the best with little effort and last.
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07-29-2014, 07:06 PM
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#11
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Moderator
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
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If you are going to use a jig saw get a fine tooth "up cut" blade. Normally jigsaw blade the teeth are angled to cut on the down stroke, up cut they are angled to cut on the up stroke. On the up stroke the blade is pulling into the shoe which cuts vibration and chatter way down.
Cutting through masking tape will help control splintering and chipping, some masking or duct tape on the jig saw shoe to keep it from scratching surface is also good. I would think the same for the dremal tool foot.
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07-29-2014, 08:09 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: bob
Trailer: 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
New York
Posts: 5,416
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Air powered die grinder with a thin cutoff disc
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07-29-2014, 11:53 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Conrad
Trailer: Bigfoot 3000 & Barth "slide-in" truck camper
Connecticut
Posts: 958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman
The absolute cleanest cut and maximum control comes from using a Dremel 565 Mulit-Purpose Cutting Kit 565D. Amazon Sells them.
I was totally amazed at how easy it was to control and how smooth a cut it made.
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That won't cut a strait line without some sort of guide.
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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07-29-2014, 11:55 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Conrad
Trailer: Bigfoot 3000 & Barth "slide-in" truck camper
Connecticut
Posts: 958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat
If you are going to use a jig saw get a fine tooth "up cut" blade. Normally jigsaw blade the teeth are angled to cut on the down stroke, up cut they are angled to cut on the up stroke. On the up stroke the blade is pulling into the shoe which cuts vibration and chatter way down.
Cutting through masking tape will help control splintering and chipping, some masking or duct tape on the jig saw shoe to keep it from scratching surface is also good. I would think the same for the dremal tool foot.
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I second that.
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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07-30-2014, 06:22 AM
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#15
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Commercial Member
Name: Mike
Trailer: Boler13/trillium4500/buro13
Ontario
Posts: 1,138
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The easiest way to make a strait and sharpest cut is to use a grinder with a diamond tile cutting blade and then use a multi function tool on the corners .i have found this to be the best combination
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07-30-2014, 07:16 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: Conrad
Trailer: Bigfoot 3000 & Barth "slide-in" truck camper
Connecticut
Posts: 958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikmay
The easiest way to make a strait and sharpest cut is to use a grinder with a diamond tile cutting blade and then use a multi function tool on the corners .i have found this to be the best combination
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Grinders are fast and easy but extremely messy. They out dust everywhere. An environmental suit with hood, goggles, gloves and a high quality mask is almost mandatory. For extended work a mask with a outside at supply and oil less compressor is the best choice. Googles get so dirty you can't see also.
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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07-30-2014, 08:05 AM
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#17
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Member
Name: Todd
Trailer: 1974 Scamp 13'
Malvern, Ohio
Posts: 48
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I just cut an 18x18 inch hole in my scamp. What I used was a jigsaw with a carbide grit blade I picked up at harbor freight. All the big box stores have them. Clean cut with no chips and hardly any dust.
2-3/4 in. U-shank Carbide Grit Jigsaw Blades 3 Pc
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07-30-2014, 08:39 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Night Sailor
That won't cut a strait line without some sort of guide.
Sent from my iPhone using Fiberglass RV
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I had zero problems following a straight line. The control was the best of any cutting tool without a physical guide. The cut off type of tool is hard to correct if needed.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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07-30-2014, 09:13 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Name: Tim
Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
North Florida
Posts: 1,547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerDat
If you are going to use a jig saw get a fine tooth "up cut" blade. Normally jigsaw blade the teeth are angled to cut on the down stroke, up cut they are angled to cut on the up stroke. On the up stroke the blade is pulling into the shoe which cuts vibration and chatter way down.
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Roger, I am not sure if are thinking about some other kind of saw blade but all of the jigsaw (and reciprocating saw) blades I have ever seen are made with the teeth angled back toward the foot ("up cut" in your description). You are correct that a blade with the teeth pointed away would be a miserable outfit to try and cut something with.
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08-02-2014, 03:11 PM
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#20
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Junior Member
Name: Tracey
Trailer: Boler 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 28
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Thanks guys. Great suggestions!!
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