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Old 12-21-2014, 09:12 PM   #21
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Fish poles.

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Originally Posted by TomK View Post
Byron you're a genius, Carol and Jon, thanks for checking that out. Now I'm anxious to try it myself. I guess the cushions fit so tight as a couch, I didn't try to stuff the banana behind the backrest. If it causes it to have a bit of slant; all the better. I've seen countless photos of the banana cushion balanced on top of the backrest. It never looked quite right, and it interfered with the curtains. I believe Scamp even recommends putting it on top. You learn something every day.

I was also thinking of looking for a way to mount a couple take-down fishing rods behind the couch some day. I'll have to see if there's still room for that. Our trailer is currently incarcerated in a U'haul storage lot for the winter. We're going to bust it out in Feb for some sun, sand and palm trees in FL. We can't wait!

Tom
I think was Joy's trailer I saw clips mounted on closet wall, between the screen door mounting and outside door for holding fishing rods. Looked like it worked pretty well.
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Old 12-22-2014, 07:04 AM   #22
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It will be interesting to see how things fit when I replace that single bottom sofa cushion
with 3 individual cushions. 😉

I've just recently replaced the foam in in the bed/dinette cushions with higher quality
N36 foam that is still very firm and supportive but indents/deflects more easily at hips
and shoulders. That should provide more comfortable sleeping and didn't cost much
more than buying a foam topper that I would have to find a place to store. 😃

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Old 12-22-2014, 09:39 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
I think was Joy's trailer I saw clips mounted on closet wall, between the screen door mounting and outside door for holding fishing rods. Looked like it worked pretty well.
I used that area to hang my awning pole. It would work well for fishing rods.
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:19 AM   #24
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Scamp front cushions

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Originally Posted by sharon_b View Post
would a couple of well-placed Velcro dots help the banana in place?

I'd guess it would, if you want to keep the banana cushion on top of the seat back.

I was glad to learn an alternate way to store the bunk parts and cushion, but as to the "right" way, I'll stick to my original response: anyway you want!

I am actually wondering whether storing it behind the seat back might result in deformation of the foam over time, since everything is squished pretty tightly. Thought I'd leave it a few weeks and see what happens when I open it up.

To turn this thread in a slightly different direction...

The one problem I have with the cushions is that the covers seem to want to rotate on the foam so the seams don't line up on the edges. Certain cushions seem to be more prone to do this, and the banana is the worst. Causes? Remedies?
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Old 12-22-2014, 11:24 AM   #25
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Jon,

I had the same issue and concern about the seams on the cushions
moving around.

When I replaced my bed/dinette foam, as I remember the conversation,
the owner of the foam shop told me that there were two reasons for this.
He said that (1) the foam was not a terribly snug fit inside the cover and
(2) they left the slippery plastic film on the foam after insertion into the cover.

With the existing cushions, he said that you could open the zipper and
reach inside and grab a handful (or two or ???) of that slippery plastic
and just rip it loose and remove it from the cover.

To get the foam inside those smallish zippers, I guess that most everyone
uses some thin plastic (even a trash bag might do if you were doing this
yourself) around the cushion and then applies suction (like a shop vac)
to a single opening in that plastic. That sucks the whole foam cushion
block down to about one third of its original size and makes it relatively
easy to insert into that zippered opening. Once the foam is inside the
cover, you simply allow the air to reenter the plastic and the cushion
expands back to full size.

In the following thread, Carol H suggests that leaving the plastic might
offer some protection from soiling due to spills or ??? (Maybe you
could just remove the plastic from the sides and leave some plastic
on the larger flat surfaces or maybe simply using Scotchguard (as I
did) on the cushions surfaces would offer enough protection from soiling? )

You will have to decide for yourself.

New Scamp "hard cushion" remedies

The new N36 foam (that I put in) not only deflects more at the shoulders
and hips but is also snugger fit. I have not yet pulled all (or lots) of the
plastic off of the new foam but, if the seams still slip around, that will
likely be my next move.

The owner of the foam shop also told me that, if I really wanted to stay
with those original harder cushions, that the best thing to do might be
to stomp on it or put the cushion between two clean sheets of plywood
and run over it with a truck (or car).

The idea seems to be that you would have to crush some of those more
rigid foam cells; just sleeping on the foam cushions is unlikely to do that
... or at least do it very fast.

When you put a cushion on the clean living room floor and stomp on it,
your entire body weight is concentrated into a very few square inches
on the bottoms of your feet and you truly crush the foam in small areas.
When you just sleep on the cushions, your body weight is spread over
many more square inches and, aside from sitting on the cushions or
kneeling on the bed, you are unlikely to sink in very far and crush many
of those rigid cells.

When I stomped on my old cushions, they did seem to soften up a bit.
However, I decided to get the higher quality foam and the snugger fit.
If the new foam is still a little uncomfortable, I will still have the option
of adding a mattress topper in the future.

That's what I think that I have learned so far.
I hope it helps!

As always, YMMV.

Good luck!

Ray
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Old 12-22-2014, 11:35 AM   #26
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You could also open up the cushion and slide in a square or strip of non skid drawer liner between the plastic and the cushion fabric on the bottom side of the cushion to keep the fabric from sliding on the plastic.
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Old 12-22-2014, 11:53 AM   #27
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Good ideas. Guess I'll start by looking to see what's inside already. If there's plastic, I may remove it entirely on the banana, since it's not as vulnerable to spills. Carol, your solution sounds good for the broad, flat cushions. Oddly, besides the banana, the only two that have the problem are the front seat bottom and one of the two dinette backrests. It'll be interesting to see if the plastic inside is what makes the difference.
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Old 12-22-2014, 01:22 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
Good ideas. Guess I'll start by looking to see what's inside already. If there's plastic, I may remove it entirely on the banana, since it's not as vulnerable to spills. Carol, your solution sounds good for the broad, flat cushions. Oddly, besides the banana, the only two that have the problem are the front seat bottom and one of the two dinette backrests. It'll be interesting to see if the plastic inside is what makes the difference.
Once you have taken the cover off & tried to put it back on the banana you will discover why I suggest that people seriously consider *not* removing the plastic Not to mention unless your on a first name bases with your dry cleaner you may find it hard to purchase the correct weight of plastic to use the next time you want to get the covers on or off.

The none skid stuff should work with the banana as well - just use a narrow strip - it does not need to cover the whole bottom of the cushions - a small section of it may just be enough to keep it the plastic from moving.
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Old 12-22-2014, 01:22 PM   #29
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Hello. I have a question related to cushions although I am not at that stage yet. I am at the overthinking stage. The front bunks ? The cushions will be the last hopefully late spring and will be the final item to make the trailer useable in a very basic sparton way. I want to go to 4" foam in the front. this means that when the top bunk terminates in the down position on top of the seat bottom (lower bunk ) the width of the top bunk will be drastically reduced. Has anybody ever tried to tuck the top bunk behind the bottom cushion. That way I would get full width ? Banana would fill in when both are in use. Maybe even have to use two bananas. Any pros or cons ? thanks in advance
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Old 12-22-2014, 07:47 PM   #30
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Charlie, all the cushions in a Scamp are 4" from the factory, except the top bunk/sofa back rest, which uses 3" foam on top of a plywood base. The top bunk is designed to fold down behind the seat cushion in sofa mode. If you increase the foam thickness to 4" on the top bunk, you will have to decrease the depth of the seat cushion by 1" (and increase the depth of the banana correspondingly). Since the seat is already narrow for comfortable daytime napping in sofa mode (or nighttime sleeping without setting up the bunk), I would be inclined to stick with 3" foam on the top bunk. It's only for kids anyway, and their young bodies don't need the padding my aging, creaky bones do.

There is an earlier discussion here: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...unk-53145.html. There wasn't a clear resolution or any follow-up from the original poster, so I don't know how it worked out in the end.

EDIT- just noticed you have a Casita, not a Scamp… So my information may or may not help.
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Old 12-22-2014, 10:22 PM   #31
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Jon, thank you very much. I actually have a casita with no foam no plywood. Had spent an inordinate amount of time and quasi experimenting with trying to make the top bunk out of one piece and finally gave up for the year. I recently saw a post that shows the top bunk plywood out of three pieces which will make the project move along faster. I understand how it is done now. The foam thickness makes sense to me. What added to the confusion was that I contacted two upholsterers and both of them told me the top bunk cushion should terminate in the lowered position on top of the bottom cushion ( I now realize they had no experience with egg bunks ) so I was trying to figure out how to make that work. 4" for the seat bottom and 3" for the seat back tucked behind the seat. Seems so simple now. Thanks again and Merry Christmas. I have my present ! Info !
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Old 12-23-2014, 07:57 AM   #32
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You're welcome, Charlie. Yes, using three pieces (one large piece with two small "wings") is the key, as it allows the seat back to conform to the curvature of the front shell when lowered. As I said earlier, it's really a well-thought-out design. The only real weak point is the glassed-in ledge under the window that supports the front of the bunk. Over time, leaks in the front window can cause the wood inside to deteriorate. Have you made sure yours is sound? (I'm assuming here that Casita does the same as Scamp...)

You might do a search or post a request for templates for the plywood and cushions, here and on the Casita forum. It could save some time.

BTW- have you considered looking into ordering cushion covers from Casita, or maybe even Scamp? I know Scamp's are very reasonable compared to custom work, and shipping shouldn't be too high if you just get covers and purchase foam locally. Of course, you may have a special fabric choice in mind, and if so, go for it! But if cost and functionality are your main considerations, it's worth checking out.

Best wishes with your bunk restoration project, and Merry Christmas to you and yours!
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Old 12-23-2014, 08:17 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carol H View Post
Once you have taken the cover off & tried to put it back on the banana you will discover why I suggest that people seriously consider *not* removing the plastic

Carol, I will yield to your experience. Thanks for the warning. Merry Christmas- sounds like y'all in the NW & BC may get a white one!
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Old 09-07-2017, 05:56 PM   #34
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Top Bunk Installation

Anybody have a picture of how the top bunk is supposed to be attached to the trailer? I've looked all over and can't find pics or instructions.

The bunk has never been installed because the lady I bought it from never used it, but now I'd like to use it for extra space...

Thanks in advance.
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:16 PM   #35
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There should be a ledge under the front window. The upper bunk rests on the ledge and is attached from the bottom using two offset hinges.

Upper bunk in raised position (from below looking toward front of trailer):
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Hinge attachment detail, looking up (ledge at bottom of photo):
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:29 PM   #36
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Bingo!! That's what we needed to see! Thanks so much!!
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:31 PM   #37
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Oh! Are there pre-drilled holes by chance?
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Old 09-07-2017, 07:20 PM   #38
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No idea, as mine arrived already attached. I don't think the exact location of the hinges is critical, but if you're interested I could take measurements for you.
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Old 09-07-2017, 07:40 PM   #39
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No idea, as mine arrived already attached. I don't think the exact location of the hinges is critical, but if you're interested I could take measurements for you.
I really appreciate that but, after much thought ~ and seeing that once the top bunk is in ~ it's there for good ~ we've decided to leave it out.

My husband is going to craft a wooden shelf to extend from the right of the stove to the front wall, to give us some extra counter space. It will be the same depth as the stove/sink area. The ledge and the hardware will work for that, and I would much rather have extra counter space than a bunk I'd have to sleep under forever...

Thank you to everyone who responded to this. I guess I just wasn't aware it would be a permanent fixture ~ I thought I could use it for extra bag space when necessary, and take it out when it wasn't needed.

(Anybody in the market for a never-slept-on bunk? )
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Old 09-10-2017, 09:00 AM   #40
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Quite a few people have done what you are thinking. I sleep on the bottom bunk, and I hear you about the headroom. For now it's necessary because one of the kids sleeps on top. I do like the top bunk as a backrest when folded- it's nicely angled and supportive. For that reason I'll probably keep it even when it's just two of us.

Keeping the bunk would also be good for eventual resale. Storing it is the problem. Under a bed or couch at home, maybe? Wrapped in plastic and stored in a basement, attic, or shed?
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