1974 Boler Resto. Oops, I did it again...

[Kenny Strong]

Robert can you buy resin that is thicker or sets differently, so that it doesn't run and stays put on vertical surfaces?

[Robert Johans]

I am certainly no expert on the chemical properties of FG resin, but I have experienced mixtures that have differing viscosities.

But there's not much one can do about keeping resin on a vertical surface except to infuse it into FG cloth or mat. Sometimes FG "fillers" can be added to create a very thick paste that can then be spread onto a vertical surface with little sag.

[Thomas G.]

Originally Posted by Robert Johans

..............Because I choose to run 15" wheels and tires, I have 10" (rather than standard 7") brakes for extra stopping power.

Nice work! I am impressed with the depth that you have taken this.

When I was messing with my UHaul I discovered that 10" electric brakes will fit into a 13" or larger wheel - just for others' reference.

[Sue and Henry]

Really great work Robert! That is going to be one very fine little egg.

[Robert Johans]

After the floor pan was completely re-glassed to the bottom shell, the entire bottom surface was coated with undercoating to further ensure protection from water. Perhaps overkill, but the undercoating will fill any tiny holes or gaps I couldn't exactly see, help protect any exposed hardware, and give the bottom a finished look.

[Robert Johans]

With the bottom now water tight, I made templates and cut patterns for the new subfloor. 3/4" plywood was bonded to the FG pan with construction adhesive and SS screws. I managed to get a pretty snug fit around the perimeter, but for good measure I sealed all of the gaps with caulk.

With the subfloor now locked down, I can layout floor-mounted "cleats" etc. in anticipation of the future furniture modules. Any exposed plywood gets a coating of 2-part epoxy paint — or finished surface material such as linoleum or cork tiles in the visible areas, or "outdoor" carpet for the hidden areas under benches, etc...

[Sue and Henry]

I love overkill!

[Robert Johans]

Since there has been a fair amount of work required to get the shell in shape for paint, I decided to "french" the Boler's taillight pot forms into the body for a custom look.

We saturated small strips of heavy gauge FG cloth with resin, then sandwiched them between the shell and the pots. Screws were used to hold them together until it all set-up and dried. After removing the screws, the pots were then fiberglassed again on the backside.

Next step is to bondo the outside seams and work the material into a nice, smooth look.

Also note the disk of plywood FG'ed to the backside of the pots. This gives me a lot of material to securely mount my taillights.

[Andrew Gibbens]

Originally Posted by Robert Johans

But there's not much one can do about keeping resin on a vertical surface except to infuse it into FG cloth or mat.

I used to work in a place making racing yachts, which needed glass cloth applied over the overhead join between keel and hull - no chance of rolling a 2-ton boat over to make it easy!

The technique used was to wet-out the cloth strips downhand on a piece of plastic. This was damp-proof membrane material so about the thickness of a fertiliser bag. Before applying the glass/plastic combo, the area it will be bonded to must be wetted with resin, and then the soggy mess is lifted into place - but having the plastic backing makes this much easier to do.

Using a small roller to press the glass/plastic combo into place is helpful, but doesn't do the whole job.

The plastic needs to be peeled off before the resin sets and that is a fairly tedious step, using a paintbrush to stipple down the bare glass as the plastic trip is peeled away. It's only with the plastic peeled away that you can see if the glass is properly bonded to the substrate without air pockets.

This technique can be used on vertical surfaces too, but doing those conventionally is just as easy.

[Rick Mooyman]

Wow awesome work I will be following this tread for sure. I am looking for another Boler to do a complete restore and modify it my way.

[dylanear]

Wow! Amazing work as always Robert!

And now I'm feeling even more silly about my procrastination about pulling up my carpets, and tearing out the front seats for my remodel. I think I start that tomorrow.

Someday, Robert, I'll want to you to do a frame up resto on my 2001. But that'll probably be in 2021 or later, it's looking very dull outside, but I think it's still a very solid trailer! I just worry how it'll hold up in heavy rains, I think it's lived in desert climates (So Cal, New Mexico) it's whole life.


So are you keeping this for yourself or will this go up for sale at some point?

How much does a new frame/running gear cost to have made? Speaking of using carbon fiber to save weight would it be possible to reengineer the frame in aluminum for some weight savings? I know for some types of structures steel is not much heavier than aluminum, but I've had that thought before.

[dylanear]

Originally Posted by Robert Johans

After the floor pan was completely re-glassed to the bottom shell, the entire bottom surface was coated with undercoating to further ensure protection from water. Perhaps overkill, but the undercoating will fill any tiny holes or gaps I couldn't exactly see, help protect any exposed hardware, and give the bottom a finished look.

I've thought about this on several occasions. What did you use and how is it applied?

I'd also like to paint the frame/tongue as there's bit of rust here and there. But I don't want to deal with stripping and sanding. But some prep would be needed or I imagine the new paint would just start flaking.

I will be passing through Oregon before long, do you do partial repairs/refinishing?? I'd love your skilled hands applied to my trailer!

[Robert Johans]

Dylan, I have not entertained the idea of an aluminum frame for various reasons. Strength and serviceability being key. With the axle and wheel assemblies removed from each, I would not guess that the weight difference between a steel frame and an equally sized aluminum frame to be greatly significant...

That said, a new custom frame (with powder coating) and axle assembly cost me about $2500.

Applying undercoating to your pan is no great challenge. Various spray can options can be found at almost any auto or home store. Just crawl under your trailer and spray it on!

As to your frame, obviously flaking paint needs to be removed, but not necessarily small amounts of surface rust... There are options out there made specifically for this application. Check out the "POR-15" line of products.

Yes, I do repairs on FG trailers, but you don't need me to address the easily resolved issues you've brought up in your past two posts.

[dylanear]

Kind of what I figured on the frame. But I was curious.

Did you use spray cans on the undercoat? Why do I get the feeling if I did it wouldn't look that good?

I'll look into the POR-15. I have had some success covering aging paint on steal with only mimimal prep work, but that can be iffy. The only thing worse than fading paint with a little tiny bit of rust here and there is a ugly uneven surface of paint coming off.

What I can do and what I want to do are very distinct! I'd love to see your operation, have you just inspect my trailer from your experienced perspective and I'd have no problem spending a little money to support an egg based business if that seemed like it would benefit all involved. We'll see how much of the thousand item list I get done before I head up to the Pac Nor West!

[Robert Johans]

The new frame is back from powder coating. Because the powder coating process requires a "bake" time in an oven, the Dexter TorFlex axle is bolt-mounted to the frame. The internal rubber "suspension" within the axle could not withstand the heat of the baking.

Cuz I'm a stickler for details, I went ahead and had the tube of the Bulldog-brand hitch jack coated to match the frame. (The paint on most of these jacks is really poor, and easy to scratch off anyway.)

Note the integrated spare tire carrier on the rear bumper. The weight of the wheel/tire combination is completely carried by the bumper without any attachments to the shell body.

As with all of my restos, new 15" wheels and tires give the trailer a nice ride height.

[shelley w]

Originally Posted by Robert Johans

Note the integrated spare tire carrier on the rear bumper. The weight of the wheel/tire combination is completely carried by the bumper without any attachments to the shell body.

As with all of my restos, new 15" wheels and tires give the trailer a nice ride height.

Fantastic work Robert! I snitched your frame schematic from this post: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post236955

I notice above that you indicated that you used 15" wheels and tires instead of the standard 13" and I'm wondering if you had to alter the placement of the axle or anything to accomplish this? I was hoping to use your schematic drawing as a template for planning out my new frame. Obviously I need to measure my old frame for my '73 model, and plug in the appropriate numbers, but you've done such a lovely drawing that I thought it might be handy for my welder to reference. Any chance you could send this image to me in a larger format?

Also curious ... what are the rods on either side near the back of the frame for?

[dylanear]

Man, I am jealous of that frame!!!

I'd love to have mine powder coated! Too bad you can't separate the frame from the rest of the trailer without taking so much of the trailer apart!

They must have a big kiln, that may be the biggest thing I've ever seen powder coated! Biggest thing I've ever had done was 16" wheels for my Miata.

[Robert Johans]

Shelly,
If you are having a new frame made, I recommend that you have your welder duplicate exactly all of the dimensions of your existing frame, but instead use stronger materials and welding techniques. (The original frames were built cheaply, in my opinion.)

And if you are buying a new axle to accommodate 15" wheels on your new frame, you must affix the axle to the frame in a position that maintains the original hub "center line." That is, the vertical travel orientation of your hubs must be consistent with what you have now, which I presume keeps your tires centered within your wheel wells.

The two short, perpendicular posts on the bumper are "arms" which holds up and bears the weight of the spare tire.

[shelley w]

Originally Posted by Robert Johans

Shelly,
If you are having a new frame made, I recommend that you have your welder duplicate exactly all of the dimensions of your existing frame, but instead use stronger materials and welding techniques. (The original frames were built cheaply, in my opinion.)

And if you are buying a new axle to accommodate 15" wheels on your new frame, you must affix the axle to the frame in a position that maintains the original hub "center line." That is, the vertical travel orientation of your hubs must be consistent with what you have now, which I presume keeps your tires centered within your wheel wells.

The two short, perpendicular posts on the bumper are "arms" into which hold up the spare tire, bearing the weight of the tire.

We are having a new frame built and yes, we will duplicate the exact dimensions, but we do want to add an extra cross support under the rear dinette and beef up the angles with a brace. We intend to stay with 13" wheels/tires. We'll be using the same type of frame tubing, but with 1/8th wall. We were going to buy a Dexter #9 axle but the turnover time is 4-6 weeks so we are hoping to get one from another company quicker (we are kind of on a timeline).

Any chance you could give me the specs (dimension, angle and how you embedded your bolts) for your tire rack and the location of the weight bearing arms shown in this thread? Are the latter necessary, or just an extra precaution? Wow - I sure admire your work and ingenuity!

[Robert Johans]

Good, sounds like you've thought things through. The dimensions of my tire carrier won't be of much help to you, 'cuz I've got 15" wheels. Your welder is gonna have to work out the details based upon your set-up. The posts on my bumper may be overkill, but I worry about the weight of the wheel/tire hanging only on the mounting studs, what with the trailer bouncing down the road. That's gotta be a fair amount of stress over time...IMHO...