1974 Boler Resto. Oops, I did it again...

[freddo411]

Very Nice work, as always.

Where did you source your rims? Do they also have 13" models?

--Fred

[Robert Johans]

Fred, check out: Ricks Tire & Wheel, Aluminum Trailer Wheels, Custom Trailer Tires and Rims

[Robert Johans]

If I haven't mentioned it earlier, this Boler is being built for me, my wife and our two dogs... So I'm able to test out a few new products for myself before possible installation for other folks down the road.

First up, a tankless water heater by Girard. Evidently these are going into a lot of bigger rigs, but I haven't heard anyone on FGRV.com discuss them. So I guess I'm the first.

The physical geometry of the heater is nearly that of a cube, about 13" per side. Being gas-fired, I'm assuming that it's probably engineered to burn best in a level orientation. And, it features a horizontal exhaust port in the rear that pokes through an access door on the outside of the trailer wall.

Problem #1: the heater has a square vertical sides, the trailer shell has an angled, slightly curving side. How do I get the heater to mate flat with the shell wall — without installing the heater on an angle?

Problem #2: the heater features a flat mounting flange and a flat access hatch door that is to be surface mounted to an angled, slightly curving side. So again, how to mate them?

Problem #3: IMHO, surface-mounted doors always look like an afterthought. I much prefer the look of built-in, body-integrated hatches and access panels.

Step 1: I break out the multi-tool and start cutting.(Cutting the FG shell wall to the shape of the door gives me that built-in look I prefer.)

Step 2: I build a wooden frame that matches (well, close, anyway) the curve of the shell wall, and allows the heater to remain level and square. This frame will get glassed in, and appropriately prepped in anticipation of the upcoming paint job.

[Robert Johans]

The exterior looks like this.

(The multiple screws holding everything together will be removed when the wood mounting frame gets glassed and prepped for paint.

[Robert Johans]

Here are the pix.

[Robert Johans]

The other "new" gadget I'm trying out is an outdoor shower hook-up with a quick-connect hose and wand set-up.

Since I have located it near the heater panel, I decided to give it a built-in look too. Again, this will all be glassed and prepped for paint.

BTW, both the heater door and this water access door will get painted the same color as the shell.

[dylanear]

That looks like a great heater! Had I known about that last fall I may have gone that route. But I am very happy with my Suburban trimode. Bigger, but in my installation not sure the saves space would be very accessible. And the outside door can be mounted at an angle and not have it affect the heater orientation.

I'll post some pics once I complete that area, I just had new fittings welded on my (cold) water tank (which has been uninstalled since last fall when the heater went in) so I could rotate it 90 degrees and fit it under the the left rear seat next to the hot water heater.

But I may need to put a new city water inlet on that side to simplify the pipe routing.

Robert, is that little box next to the heater an outside shower box? I just saw one that looked like it had a standard hose quick connect and two small knobs in a Sprinter type RV. It was more compact than the ones I've seen previously. By any chance is that that little box with the two black barb fittings? If it is, where did you get it? I'd love one of those, heck two, I'd but one in the front inside!

[Robert Johans]

Oh, though I don't recommend this method of testing, this morning my newly sealed plywood subfloor heroically withstood the ravages of 16 oz of hot black coffee when yours truly forgot where he left his mug!

[dylanear]

You answered my question while I was typing it!

Where did you get that!!!

[dylanear]

Originally Posted by Robert Johans

Oh, though I don't recommend this method of testing, this morning my newly sealed plywood subfloor heroically withstood the ravages of 16 oz of hot black coffee when yours truly forgot where he left his mug!

That will only make the trailer stronger. Coffee is good for you!!! (Says the hopeless caffeine addict.)

[dylanear]

All I can find online is the large Thetford and perhaps variations on that theme.

Amazon.com: Thetford 36765 Exterior Shower Box: Automotive

You're going to leave me hanging aren't you???

Too late to get an order in today anyway.

[dylanear]

Try desperately to read the brand name on that shower fixture door.....

[Robert Johans]

Spray Away

[dylanear]

Originally Posted by Robert Johans

Spray Away

Beautiful, thanks!

What's your assessment so far? The one I saw, while great in design, looked like it was a cheap plastic. I can deal with that given it's awesome form factor. But just curious if it looked long lasting to you. I guess that you've installed it and will paint it shows you have some confidence.

Let us know when you've tried the instant heater, I'd love to know how consistent and hot it is.

And I can't wait to see it all painted, your excellent craftsmanship always shows!

[RRIZZO]

Unbelievable work. Plese keep the photos coming. Have never seen a project taken from such a stripped down state. You will have something to be very proud of. Suggest putting your photos in an album to carry with you when you camp. People will be very impressed. Keep up the good work.

[dylanear]

Originally Posted by RRIZZO

Unbelievable work. Plese keep the photos coming. Have never seen a project taken from such a stripped down state. You will have something to be very proud of. Suggest putting your photos in an album to carry with you when you camp. People will be very impressed. Keep up the good work.

In case you'r not familiar with his work.

Contact TEP Fiberglass Camper Restoration

I'd love to have Robert build me a trailer someday. Beautiful work.

[dylanear]

Shower fixtures ordered. Sadly they use their own type quick connects, not standard hose quick connects, but they do offer hose adapters for their style.

[Robert Johans]

Every day we are making slow but steady progress...

In regards to the fiberglass body work and repairs, most of the heavy lifting has been accomplished. We now have the bottom shell mounted to the frame. (A layer of high-density RV foam tape went between the frame and the tub. Six carriage bolts run through the floor and frame tightened things down.) Very soon we will be mating the top shell to the bottom and re-glassing the "belly" seam.

We made quite a few "cut-outs" in the bottom shell to accommodate the side markers, access hatches, and utility ports. To ensure that these components can be secured well to the shell, we glassed-in wood "backers" that framed all of the holes on the inside. Now I can run my SS fasteners through the shell wall and into solid material for a strong hold.

We also glassed-in what I call "cleats" — wood blocks that will allow us to mount the cabinetry framework to the shell without drilling through it.

All of these backers and cleats are "glued" to the shell wall with a thick layer of resin-saturated FG matt, and held tightly in place with a few screws until dry.

The exterior of all of these cut-outs and screw holes will be dressed up and made pretty with body filler before we go to paint.

[Rick Mooyman]

Awesome, cant wait to find another Boler I can rebuild my way just as you are doing. I look forward to seeing your pics as you progress through the build.

[dylanear]

Originally Posted by Robert Johans

We also glassed-in what I call "cleats" — wood blocks that will allow us to mount the cabinetry framework to the shell without drilling through it.

I'd love more info on your "cleats" because I want to do exactly that. Attach shelves, shower curtains etc. without a hole in the shell.

I was thinking of just wrapping a bolt head in fiberglass cloth and sticking it on there. I have the added disadvantage of wanting to do this with the reflextix and fur in place.

A thread I started on this specific subject.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...-it-52994.html