Slinky stowage, Casita.

[Glenn Baglo]

Cable guy told me they don't use white cable ties because UV degrades them. They only use the black.

[SueC123]

How do the bungee cords work on the ends? I can't picture it and have ordered the 5" tube and end caps.

[Stephen_Albers]

Your trailer hitch box idea is golden. I did a couple of days of research and came to the informed conclusion that hauling an aging spare tire around made no sense. I lost mine last week after fitting premium tires.

Can you supply details on your hitch box?

BTW, How is the best way to get the decals off?

[Casita Greg]

I haven't carried my spare on the back of the trailer since I got it. Originally, I just threw it in the bed of the pickup, but I subsequently fabricated an upright carrier for the spare out of some scrap ends left over from other projects. This way, it has a very small "footprint" and sits along the side behind the wheel well, and is easy to get to if I should need it.

Here's a link to the company that makes the Stow-Away carriers. I got the one in the link, (but in white, which they seem to be currently out of the white ones,) and the fixed one piece 2" receiver mount bracket, as opposed to the "swing away" version that they also make.
https://www.stowaway2.com/standard-cargo-box-black

Additionally, if you don't have a 2" receiver mount on the back of your trailer, you'll also need to add one. I built my own years ago before they came out with pre-fabbed ones that just bolt on between our trailer's main frame rails. I also secure it with one of those hitch tighteners so it doesn't rattle in the receiver. Solid as a rock. I stand on top of mine when I wash the back end of the trailer roof, (and I weigh 250 lbs,) so it is very strong.
Here's a link to the hitch. It's made specifically for Casita 17's.
Casita Hitch Receiver

As to the removal of the decals, well, that was probably the first thing I did the first night after picking up the trailer. When they're new, they just peeled right off with my thumbnail. After they've been in place for a while, they get a little tougher to remove as they age.

[Stephen_Albers]

I need to put you on retainer. The factory told me they had one white box left with a fixed 2" mount. They won't be building any more until they find a new molder. I bought it off the showroom floor and had it shipped to Larry at Litte House Customs who is doing the upgrades on my Freedom. I'm very appreciative.

Stephen

[Casita Greg]

You're quite welcome.
Hope you enjoy it as much as I do. I find it to be an indispensable addition.

[Fred762]

Originally Posted by SueC123

How do the bungee cords work on the ends? I can't picture it and have ordered the 5" tube and end caps.

I used a 5x5" x 58" long piece of vinyl fence post. The light
weight caps are held on by those bungees in loops w the little red ball on one end.. drill hole near each end of post and stretch the bungees into the post and OUT thru a hole. Fix that loop w some kind of pin or something. I used a piece of aluminum pin bent to stay in the bit of loop stuck OUT a hole..experiment w your bungees to see where to drill holes. The stretched bungee holds the caps ON and allows one to pull them off to extricate the slinky. Smooth out the holes to avoid fraying

Hold the whole thing ONTO frame [behind propane] cover, by use 4 18" long, HEAVY DUTY black outdoor zip-ties..about 3/8" wide. They hold around frame thru 4 holes in bottom of post..on each side..up from outside, on one side, and back out and then around the frame and ZIP x4
I figured it out..so can you: ie..front frame dia below, w ~5/16" holes drilled in bottom of tube, for zips.



// \\
*//* * \\*
* // * * \\*


U may need to experiment to see what size holes U need to make in the bottom for those BIG zips. Do not use crappy puny zips..we got 50 of the BIG ones, "handcuff strength" from Amazon.

Good luck. I cannot make the diagram line up correctly..in yer mind move the top // to the right to simulate the angles of that frame in the tongue area..ok??

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by Fred762

I used a 5x5" x 58" long piece of vinyl fence post. The light
weight caps are held on by those bungees in loops w the little red ball on one end.. drill hole near each end of post and stretch the bungees into the post and OUT thru a hole. Fix that loop w some kind of pin or something. I used a piece of aluminum pin bent to stay in the bit of loop stuck OUT a hole..experiment w your bungees to see where to drill holes. The stretched bungee holds the caps ON and allows one to pull them off to extricate the slinky. Smooth out the holes to avoid fraying
Hold the whole thing ONTO frame [behind propane] cover, by use 4 18" long, HEAVY DUTY black outdoor zip-ties..about 3/8" wide. They hold around frame thru 4 holes in bottom of post..on each side..up from outside, on one side, and back out and then around the frame and ZIP x4
I figured it out..so can you: ie..front frame dia below, w ~5/16" holes drilled in bottom of tube, for zips.

Fred, I can see the bungees for the end caps but I really have to question any zip ties that are out in the weather. I may be biased as my desert summers easily hit 125*. Think I would use 1/4" round bar and bend it to fit the tube size and past the bottom of the frame with a flat bar and tighten it up with nylocks. All thread would work if you don't have a tap & die set for making end threads. A little matching paint to blend in.......

[John in Santa Cruz]

black zip ties are used from the factory to secure the wiring and hoses and bowdens and stuff on most motorcycles, they last decades. ultraviolet is the enemy, not heat.

[Borrego Dave]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

ultraviolet is the enemy, not heat.

The ultraviolet comes with the heat at no extra cost John and unlike a bike, my TT doesn't fit in the garage

[Fred762]

Originally Posted by Borrego Dave

Fred, I can see the bungees for the end caps but I really have to question any zip ties that are out in the weather. I may be biased as my desert summers easily hit 125*. Think I would use 1/4" round bar and bend it to fit the tube size and past the bottom of the frame with a flat bar and tighten it up with nylocks. All thread would work if you don't have a tap & die set for making end threads. A little matching paint to blend in.......

We used ~3/8 wide, black, heavy duty, "outdoor" zips we got from Amazon.. they are not exposed to UV and are under the tube and around the frames..two for each end. Can be checked each hitch-up easily and replaced if necessary. FWIW we did put a small piece of thick, outdoor 'dbl-stik' tape on top of frame rails for padding too.

[trainman]

I also used the 5x5 PVC fence post from Home Depot with the end caps. I drilled a 1/4" hole thru the end cap on opposite sides and then drilled to hole in the 5x5 with the cap in place, this is so all would line up. I put a 1/4" bolt 6" long thru the holes with the cap in place and use a wing nut to keep the bolt in place. The wing nut has never come loose and I just snug it up, not very tight. One note, for the 1/4" holes I did use the next size up drill bit as the 1/4" would be too tight to push through the holes.


trainman

[Fred762]

Originally Posted by M Scott

I built a storage tube similar to Fred's, using the 5"x5" vinyl post with buckles to secure both end caps. Where to store it? Won't fit under my 13 ft Scamp. Won't fit behind the battery box which is tight against the trailer.

I really don't want to store it on my car roof rack - yuck.

Suggestions desparately needed. Thanks.

1. under tongue? Should be some room for a 5" tube there ...my chains hang down that much anyways??

2. in front of propane tanks?

[trainman]

I have no idea what the 13' Scamp looks like, one other choice is attached to the rear bumper, but once again I'd have to see what the Scamp's rear bumper looks like. This should be a no brainer, it will either fit into a space, or it won't.


trainman

[Thomas A Cronquist]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

Cable installer apologized for using black ties to attach cable to my white house. He said the white ties were easily degraded by UV.

On any Fiberglass Trailer or any added items, should be sprayed/wipe with 303 UV spray. I have used 303 on my Fiberglass Kayaks over the last 10 years, and they look brand new.

[Fred762]

Originally Posted by Thomas A Cronquist

On any Fiberglass Trailer or any added items, should be sprayed/wipe with 303 UV spray. I have used 303 on my Fiberglass Kayaks over the last 10 years, and they look brand new.

Whatinthe heck is 303UV spray and where do I get some??

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Fred762

Whatinthe heck is 303UV spray and where do I get some??

this sstuff...

https://www.amazon.com/303-30306-Aer.../dp/B000XBCURW


note 303 has a bunch of other products, many of which are heads and shoulders better than anything else, but this is what they are most famous for. this is to be used on things like vinyl awnings, dashboards and door panels, really any non-porous surface. I have another 303 product for waterproofing the canvas top on my convertible, that you brush on, let soak in and dry off, its amazing stuff, the top still breathes but water rolls away like off a duck's back.

[Alex Adams]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

I have another 303 product for waterproofing the canvas top on my convertible, that you brush on, let soak in and dry off, its amazing stuff, the top still breathes but water rolls away like off a duck's back.

John, you wouldn't happen to know the name of this would you? Do you think it would work for the old fashioned awnings that attach to a rail on the trailer?

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Alex Adams

John, you wouldn't happen to know the name of this would you? Do you think it would work for the old fashioned awnings that attach to a rail on the trailer?

if the awning is a vinyl or plastic coated sort of fabric, use the stuff above. if its an open weave canvas, then you want the 303 Fabric Guard, like this,
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000221H08
(also available in gallon jugs)

application instructions:
https://www.sailrite.com/PDF/303%20F...structions.pdf

[steve dunham]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

Cable guy told me they don't use white cable ties because UV degrades them. They only use the black.

Clear Ty Raps are not rated for outdoor use because they are not UV resistant
Ty Raps also have a temperature rating ( It’s printed on the bag) and many are not rated for cold weather applications
Try to tighten up a Ty Rap when it’s below zero and watch them snap
Plus there are different grades of Ty Raps , the good ones are virgin nylon , the cheap ones are reprocessed plastic
Good Ty Raps have SS retaining clips , cheap ones have plastic clips