Scamp Lock-set Replacement

1. First I removed existing entrance lock-set. Held on by two screws.

2. Then I removed the steel extrusion on latch side of door that was used by old lock-set by drilling out the two rivets and removing the two screws. Note that the screws were cut off and slightly flanged over so it took a good Phillips screw driver of the correct size to avoid stripping the screw heads.

3. On the jam side a small piece of pine 2 x 6 about 2 1/2" long bought the jam out to the edge of the door opening. After sanding and shaping the corners it was mounted on the jam side as close to the door molding as possible with two 2 1/2" flat head hex screws and two more flat head screws from the front through the holes left by removing the old steel latch extrusion.

4. On the inside of the door I mounted another piece of sanded and shaped 4 1/2" long 2x6 directly opposite and abutting the jam piece with screws through the holes that held the original lock-set. This made the door at that point approximately 2 1/2 to 3 inches thick.

5. I went to a locksmith shop for a lock-set and found to my disappointment that the thickest door that manufacturers make lock-sets for is 2 1/4 inches. At this point there was no going back, so determined to make this work, I returned home with a Kwikset Titan lock-set with a 2 3/8" back set and a 21/4" adapter kit.

6. Now that the inside block was located, I removed it and after carefully measuring for the 2 3/8 back set I first drilled a 1/4" deep cut with a 3" hole saw. I then drilled the hole for the lock-set with a 2 1/8 Ō hole saw using the same pilot hole and then cleared out the resulting shoulder with a wood chisel. This was done to allow the inside knob to be inset to a thickness of 2 1/4" . I then drilled out the latch hole with a 1" spade bit.

NOTE that I had to maintain the full 2 1/2" thickness at the door edge in order to have enough overlap for the jam latch plate.

7. I then remounted the inside block on the door and using the same 2 1/8" hole saw drilled the hole through the door from the inside using the hole on the block as a guide. As soon as the small guide drill punctured the outside of the door, I finished the hole from the outside to avoid splintering the fiberglass.


8. I then mounted the lock-set and latch, countersinking the latch and making sure that it worked and didnÕt bind.

9. I put some graphite from a pencil on the edge of the latch in order to locate itÕs position precisely with the jam and closed the door firmly so that the graphite made a mark and noting itÕs position mounted the latch plate after drilling out the latch clearance hole.

10. Unfortunately, the new lock-set did not completely cover the old hole so I had to fill in a small (approx. 1/2" ) opening next to the doorknob with epoxy. It cured hard in about 2 hours, sanded smooth and cured white. After it cured I painted it with some high gloss enamel. Now the door closes with a satisfying thunk and is much more secure.

Larry Page