1970s duo therm gravity propane heater - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 02-18-2021, 11:28 AM   #21
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pics of my duo therm

more pics duo therm im having guy put in a few days any suggestions for him when he installs to make sure it don't leak. maybe around the venting system he would put some aluminum tape?? I HAD MY OLD RV GUY LOOK AT THIS HEATER AND HE PUT A NEW PART ON IT. IN PIC ITS SHOWN I THINK ITS A NEW THERMOCOUPLER
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Old 02-18-2021, 11:32 AM   #22
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putting in heater in a few days any suggestions for install

puttin this in very soon. any suggestions for the installer? the vent system is the weak link look at the heat box it looks very good. i had one rv guy say that pin needle holes come in heat box and that is the weak link. then others say no that box is beeefy even is a pin hole in it it ain't enuf of a leak to hurt you
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Old 02-18-2021, 11:38 AM   #23
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posted duo therm pics

so i posted pics of my duo therm. surface rust on the venting system should i sand that down? I am having an rv guy put this in my new camper. odd putting a 1970s heater in a 2020 camper. that is 50 years!!! but i thnk this might be the best heater for off grid in existence. i cut down the vent length ,,,,, but not a huge deal i plan to put a metal sheet on wall near vent on inside .
if it vents to outside i wont have problem. SOME RV GUYS SAY USE BLACK PROPANE PIPE BUT MY RV GUY SAYS USE COPPER PIPE. HE SAYS THE ONLY REASON THEY ARE USEING BLACK PIPE NOWADAYS IS ITS CHEAPER MY GUY GONNA USE COPPER................I USUALLY DONT DO WINTERS AT ALL AS IMOUT OF COUNTRY SO IM NOT THRILLED ABOUT PERMAENTLY MOUNTINGTHIS THING IN AS I WILL ONLY USE IT THIS WINTER. I WONDER IF I COULD HAVE A SET UP WHERE THE HEATER COULD BE REMOVED IN SUMMER? I DONT THINK SO. I THINK THIS IS MY BEST OPTION I JUST NEED TO MAKE SURE IT DONT JIGGLE AROUND TOO MUCH DRAGGING CAMPER DOWN THE ROAD AS IT MIGHT JAR SOMETING LOOSE OVER TIME? I SEE A HUGE AMOUNT OF DETECTORS ON EBAY. I BOUGHT A FEW CHEAP CHINESE PROPANE AND MONOXIDE DETEECTORS
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Old 02-18-2021, 02:19 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k0wtz View Post
I like the wave heaters KISS principal for me!
I am sorry that I tend to be argumentative, but how much simpler can you possibly get than a fire in a box? A catalytic heater is more complex in my opinion. O2 sensor, venting requirements, condensation...
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Old 02-18-2021, 03:33 PM   #25
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William, Copper is what Trillium used on all the installs I have seen. Your furnace looks a lot like my Duo-Therm 11HU:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...1hu-94007.html
The only other 65211 that I could find was a -1 version:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post195713

That one had a simple gas valve that didn’t have a thermostat, just on / off. But it still seemed to have a thermocouple that would cut of the gas if the pilot light went out.

I am curious about the model number of your gas valve. It would be difficult to take a picture of, but the model number is on the side of the gas valve that faces away from the fire box. Would it be possible to give it a try though?

As for sanding your exhaust, I don't see any reason to do that. It will just rust again. But what I do suggest is a high temperature anti seize compound on the inner exhaust tube. The main reason that these furnaces are not more common in the used market is that the hot inner tube gets so rusty that fuses and no longer telescopes. This means that it must be destroyed to remove it:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ter-49659.html
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Old 02-18-2021, 09:04 PM   #26
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version 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Tilston View Post
William, Copper is what Trillium used on all the installs I have seen. Your furnace looks a lot like my Duo-Therm 11HU:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...1hu-94007.html
The only other 65211 that I could find was a -1 version:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post195713

That one had a simple gas valve that didn’t have a thermostat, just on / off. But it still seemed to have a thermocouple that would cut of the gas if the pilot light went out.

I am curious about the model number of your gas valve. It would be difficult to take a picture of, but the model number is on the side of the gas valve that faces away from the fire box. Would it be possible to give it a try though?

As for sanding your exhaust, I don't see any reason to do that. It will just rust again. But what I do suggest is a high temperature anti seize compound on the inner exhaust tube. The main reason that these furnaces are not more common in the used market is that the hot inner tube gets so rusty that fuses and no longer telescopes. This means that it must be destroyed to remove it:
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...ter-49659.html
well if i got a 2 version then it must be better than a one version?....why are u interested in the gas valve ?? because those gas valves are not available anymore?????/ and they go bad????/ why? is the gas valve the other wire thing that comes out of unit beside the thermocouple.?? do u want me to look on inside of it to see if some numbers are their? I'm curious why u are interested in that valve. i think because that is the only other thing that can do bad on these units.? and those valves are not available anymore? i wonder if some old rv shop might have one sitting around. if i replace that gas valve then i have a NEW unit
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Old 02-18-2021, 09:07 PM   #27
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thanks david

david as u look at my pics what do you think of condition of my unit? does it look ok to you? nothing remarkable as far as deterioration? what year do you think it was made??? MAYBE WE SHOULDNT DISCUSS THIS HEATER HERE AS THIS IS THE DREAM HEATER FOR OFF GRID CAMPER. ESPECIALLY IF CAMPER IS SMALL..................IF IT WAS MADE IN 75. AND I BOUGHT IT IN 97. AND ITS BEEN SETTING FOR 20 YEARS IN MY GARAGE. THIS UNIT IS PROBABLY IN DECENT SHAPE . U SEE SOME SURFACE RUST ON SOME COMPONETS IS THAT MOST LIKELY ONLY COSMETIC ISSUE. WHAT ELSE COULD I REPLACE ON IT
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Old 02-18-2021, 09:10 PM   #28
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thanks david

DAVID u see i have a stove on top. i am gonna move that to the side of my heater and my rv installer is gonna make a box for the heater and the stove any suggestions for the box.? should the heater box be fireproof of any sort or does it matter? i think the heater box can be wood their will not be a lot of heat going around the box??? the box is just made as the heater is ugly as sin,
?? no need to make the heater box metal or any thing as the heat is coming out front not sides
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Old 02-18-2021, 09:54 PM   #29
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thanks david

david now the heater is at my new rv installer house. i go Monday for install thank for advise on the tape or whatever u think i should use for install i will tell him. again; I'm curious why u want to know about the gas valve. and where exactly do i look for that number u want. is it the little pipe right next to thermocoupler.? u say on inside of that pipe their is a number? can it be replaced? will i find a replacement or is that item discontinued years ago
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Old 02-19-2021, 11:43 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by yogavnture View Post
well if i got a 2 version then it must be better than a one version?....why are u interested in the gas valve ?? because those gas valves are not available anymore?????/ and they go bad????/ why? is the gas valve the other wire thing that comes out of unit beside the thermocouple.?? do u want me to look on inside of it to see if some numbers are their? I'm curious why u are interested in that valve. i think because that is the only other thing that can do bad on these units.? and those valves are not available anymore? i wonder if some old rv shop might have one sitting around. if i replace that gas valve then i have a NEW unit
I think version 2 has a thermostat.
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Old 02-19-2021, 11:50 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by yogavnture View Post
DAVID u see i have a stove on top. i am gonna move that to the side of my heater and my rv installer is gonna make a box for the heater and the stove any suggestions for the box.? should the heater box be fireproof of any sort or does it matter? i think the heater box can be wood their will not be a lot of heat going around the box??? the box is just made as the heater is ugly as sin,
?? no need to make the heater box metal or any thing as the heat is coming out front not sides
In a Trillium, the furnace is installed in a fibreglass wall, with a fibreglass top. Metal, or wood would work too. I beleive that the whole point of the metal housing around the fire box is to prevent the surounding surfaces becoming too hot.
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Old 02-19-2021, 11:54 AM   #32
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I did have one in a truck slide-in that had a thermostat.
I really liked that heater because it used no electricity.
With all our technology today you would think someone could design a safe one for campers today.
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Old 02-19-2021, 11:57 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by yogavnture View Post
david now the heater is at my new rv installer house. i go Monday for install thank for advise on the tape or whatever u think i should use for install i will tell him. again; I'm curious why u want to know about the gas valve. and where exactly do i look for that number u want. is it the little pipe right next to thermocoupler.? u say on inside of that pipe their is a number? can it be replaced? will i find a replacement or is that item discontinued years ago
Let's just say I have an insatiable curiosity about some things, (astro physics, quantum physics, genetics, Trillium trailers and their accessories.....). The data that I am looking for should be printed on the side of the valve.

The tube you are asking about is the pilot gas supply.
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Old 02-19-2021, 03:44 PM   #34
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i got a deal on a vermont castings gas stove none of the parts were available . It had a sit valve in it big deal they still make a sit valve. Everyone that looked at it gave up!


So i took a look i just ordered a new valve, pilot light and thermocouple and redid the whole thing.


it works perfect i may add i am thinking if the valve doesnt work you can replumb it!
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Old 02-19-2021, 09:25 PM   #35
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I did have one in a truck slide-in that had a thermostat.
I really liked that heater because it used no electricity.
With all our technology today you would think someone could design a safe one for campers today.
exactly!!! with all the off grid camping going on and tiny campers and vans that don't have a lot of space to heat. and those propane heaters needing electricity and are loud as all hell in a small space u would think someone would duplicate my duo therm idea............as i remember it the old duo therm type heaters were banned because a few fires happened when someone put a blanket on them. i mean cmon. their is a way around that problem. if u go to you tube their is a ton of interest in small space heaters propane or diesel.
but i just don't trust a buddy heater
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Old 02-19-2021, 09:26 PM   #36
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Let's just say I have an insatiable curiosity about some things, (astro physics, quantum physics, genetics, Trillium trailers and their accessories.....). The data that I am looking for should be printed on the side of the valve.

The tube you are asking about is the pilot gas supply.
on the side of the red knob or on the side of that small metal box that has the red knob on it. bottom line is can i get that replaced? do they tend to failover time
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Old 02-23-2021, 10:39 AM   #37
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on the side of the red knob or on the side of that small metal box that has the red knob on it. bottom line is can i get that replaced? do they tend to failover time
They do fail. After 40 years, or so, that should not be a surprise. They can be replaced, sort of. The Robert Shaw replacement is costly, and the gas ports are in different places, (https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/p...w63h3:20501231). So, some tube bending will be required. Most people would not think it is worth it. Since I have several, I would likely try to repair it first.

The model number can be found on the side of the valve housing. That is the side of the metal box, the same side that the small copper tube comes out of. Like the picture below. The model number in this case is RV18AA02 and it is made by ITT.
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Old 02-23-2021, 01:26 PM   #38
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They do fail. After 40 years, or so, that should not be a surprise. They can be replaced, sort of. The Robert Shaw replacement is costly, and the gas ports are in different places, (https://www.grainger.ca/en/product/p...w63h3:20501231). So, some tube bending will be required. Most people would not think it is worth it. Since I have several, I would likely try to repair it first.

The model number can be found on the side of the valve housing. That is the side of the metal box, the same side that the small copper tube comes out of. Like the picture below. The model number in this case is RV18AA02 and it is made by ITT.
thanks David i will try to find the model number. no chance of finding an original replacement? maybe their is a new old stock one still around? my guy is putting in my heater right now. i will assume its ok to put the non thermostat side up against wood wall of camper. its all a tight fit on top too.
up against the wood roof. i will assume since heater only used during cold. that having the top and one side up against wood wont be too hot.............any dangerous heat will only be around the heat box and surrounding chamber. and maybe some heat coming out the back vent? now my spot i am putting heater is very tight fit...........my guy might have to make an additional length on the vent tube. i like how u said it david. that this heater is about as simple as you can get. the monoxide goes out on the inner part of the exhaust tube and the oxygen comes in on the outer part of the exhaust tube. i guess since oxygen is coming in on the outer exhaust tube technically the camper can be completely sealed to everything during this heat process. which makes this gravity heater unique.
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Old 02-23-2021, 01:55 PM   #39
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david what do you call that piece ? valve housing./ couldn't i start looking around for a new old stock ? of this piece. are u saying that mine could fail or will fail ? what would and could happen if it fails? and what exactly fails in the product? i do see surface rust around it. mine works fine right now. what exactly fails on it?
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Old 02-24-2021, 09:53 AM   #40
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William, I think that the point of the outer housing on your furnace is to keep any dangerous heat from burning the housing that it is mounted in. Ironically, the only place that gets hot enough to start a fire is the front grill.
The part in the picture that I posted, I call the gas valve. While everything wears out, that part doesn't see much wear and tear. If it works, then it will likely work for some time. As for failure points, I have seen torn diaphragms and broken thermostats. I am sure there are more types of failure.
If you find new old stock, please let me know. I would purchase a few spares. However, I think that is unlikely.
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