AC Vented in Floor?

[melissab]

Ok, I'm still battling how to install an AC permanently in my T@B. I remember reading a long while back about some who have vented their AC through the floor after doing a closet install. A couple of folks suggested it to me when I've asked about A/C ideas in the past. Parkliner vents their A/C through the floor so it must work ok. My biggest concern with this has been water/grime intrusion from the road. How is that dealt with? At this point I think my only option is a closet install venting the A/C through the floor as my walls and ceiling have no supporting ribs whatsoever. I will take my trailer some place to have this done so as to get it drained and vented properly. Does anybody have any suggestions, warnings etc I need to be aware of? I've also posted over on the T@B forum about this mod but we'll see if I get a response.

I have lost countless hours of sleep and pulled my hair out trying to resolve the A/C issue permanently so I think this is my last hope.

Thanks for any and all suggestions/ideas/warnings etc.

Melissa (Frustrated in Fl, LOL)

[itlives]

Found it!
This should help whoever does yours.
https://picasaweb.google.com/brysthe...at=directlink#

And here's how I'm doing mine. I haven't run the drain tube yet. It will come down from the top duct and exit the drain hole of the original fridge.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ics-49850.html

[melissab]

Thanks for the pix, I noticed in both photo sets it looks like the A/C is also vented out the side, not just the bottom. I'm hoping this is not necessary and I cant cut a hole in the side of my T@b without compromising the entire structure.

Originally Posted by itlives

Found it!
This should help whoever does yours.
https://picasaweb.google.com/brysthe...at=directlink#

And here's how I'm doing mine. I haven't run the drain tube yet. It will come down from the top duct and exit the drain hole of the original fridge.
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ics-49850.html

[itlives]

I don't think it would be necessary to go out the side if you use the bottom cut-out for venting hot air and drainage.

You just want the hot exhaust air to not be mixed with the air the AC is trying to cool.
I really liked his design but already had the side vents.

I'm sure if you have to have vents put in the side it can be "shored" up. I say that not knowing diddly about trailer

[cpaharley2008]

Melissa, You can cut a hole in the T@b side, that is where the factory installs the CoolCat heat pump. The T@b forum has diagrams showing the studs in the wall locations. Contact Jerry, one of the moderators or Lil Guy who is making them now.
You also are not observing the notations on the pictures, in them they reference the exhaust exiting the side and fresh air intake underneath. They have to be kept separate for the unit to function efficiently.
The only downside to the sidewall/floor location is the need to keep your trailer tilted to the side to allow the condensate to drain or you tilt the a/c unit itself to insure proper drainage.

[honda03842]

Melissa,

I mounted mine without cutting the side of the trailer. Many others have as well and done it better than me.

Basically the area where cool out side air comes into the AC needs to be seperated from where the hot air exits.

The cool air comes in on the sides and top and blows thru the rear of the AC unit and comes out hot.

I have a hole thru the floor below where the hot air comes out. I use two small muffin fans to blow the hot air out.

I seperate the cool section from the hot section with a piece of foam that fits between the closet walls and air conditioner. The cool air comes up thru a seperate hole in the floor. Again it needs to be seperated from the hot air under the trailer.

As Jim suggests the AC needs to be tipped a little towards the rear so it drains towards the back. I 'gooped' a hose into the drain hole of the AC to drain the AC unit thru the floor.

If you look at Preparing a 1991 Scamp you can see my pictures. I'd be glad to provide more pictures though after I did it someone else did it more professionally than me and had some great pictures. Unfortunately I did not bookmark his thread.

[melissab]

Thanks Jim. I'm pretty sure it was Jerry who told me last summer I could not cut a hole in the wall b/c the first year T@b had no supporting structure in the wall of any kind. The Coolcat came about the next year and the walls were re-enforced for such. A member posted they had to take their first year trailer back to the factory, have the orginal wall completely removed and a new, re-enforced wall installed so they could have the Coolcat. Cost them about $2000 IIRC. I'm pretty sure mine is just an aluminum skin with a foam core but I did post the question over on the T@b forum to verify that. I hope you're right, I hope I can cut a hole in the side for the vent without my wall desintegrating from wind intrusion though the vent. Would hate to leave aluminum and foam on the highway, lol. I also have a call into Little Guy so I hope they have all the build specs on the first year T@b and not just the model in production when they bought the rights.

Originally Posted by cpaharley2008

Melissa, You can cut a hole in the T@b side, that is where the factory installs the CoolCat heat pump. The T@b forum has diagrams showing the studs in the wall locations. Contact Jerry, one of the moderators or Lil Guy who is making them now.
You also are not observing the notations on the pictures, in them they reference the exhaust exiting the side and fresh air intake underneath. They have to be kept separate for the unit to function efficiently.
The only downside to the sidewall/floor location is the need to keep your trailer tilted to the side to allow the condensate to drain or you tilt the a/c unit itself to insure proper drainage.

[melissab]

Good idea Norm, once I verify I whether I can cut a hole in the side I'll know better which way to procede and can print instructions/photos to take to wherever I find to do the job.

Melissa