Advice: Hauling canoe on FGRV - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-28-2018, 08:55 AM   #21
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Name: Mark
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Cheap inflatable kayak idea scares me , I tried the air mattress route for a couple years and couldn't get more than a couple uses out of them - I'm 6'5" and 280lbs - HENCE the whole idea of a FGRV - tired of tent camping, blown air mattresses, etc.
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Old 09-28-2018, 10:02 AM   #22
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I'm not talking about a cheap inflatable. You can buy an 8-10' plastic sit-inside (I'm not a fan of sit-on-tops because you get pretty wet, so they're not suitable for cold water conditions) for under $200. Some are outfitted with fishing rod holders and maybe a dry compartment if desired.

I toured Lake Powell for 5 days at a time twice in my 10'er before buying the 16'er. The 10'er is extremely stable and dry. I even took it in the ocean once near San Diego. The 16'er is narrower and has a rudder, so it makes for effortless long-distance paddling. My trips were usually around 150-200 miles.

You'd have to check weight ratings on the smaller kayaks. Not all are suitable for a larger person.
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Old 09-28-2018, 10:06 AM   #23
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Can you give me a decent brand name under $200
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Old 09-28-2018, 10:32 AM   #24
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Not sure what you mean by "decent" brand. My 10'er is a Dagger Bayou and my 16'er is a Perception Carolina. Both are well-regarded brands in the recreational category, but definitely cost more than $200. I had more disposable income when I was single...LOL!

For day use on smaller bodies of water- exploring or fishing a small lake- I'd have no qualms about using something like this, rated for 300#.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Sun-Dolph...uded/619556903
There are 8'ers, too, but they seem to be rated for only 250 pounds.
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Old 09-28-2018, 10:43 AM   #25
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I understand your experience and realize it's beside the point now, but quality inflatables are a completely different product than cheap inflatables. What people run the most challenging rapids in the world with are inflatables.

I mean just think of the difference between an air mattress and the tires on your truck. The tires on your truck are tougher than any plastic or fiberglass material that any hard sided boat is made out of.

So it just all depends. My friends have rafts that regularly slam into rocks in raging rivers, and they've had them for a decade. I have the same thermarest inflatable camping mattress I bought in college (almost 20 years ago now).

But you're going to pay for that quality. I'd say figure out a way to carry the canoe on your truck (there has to be a good way; I remember growing up we always put the canoe on my Mom's VW Rabbit), or like you say, rent when you get there. There's a roof carrying system for every 4-wheeled vehicle made.
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Old 09-28-2018, 01:16 PM   #26
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I wonder if there isn't a system where you could use the front bumper area for an extension upwards that would allow it to "roll" towards the back. Then you would not be lifting the whole thing, and could mount it from the front, and a simple rack on the bed that would get it to the cab height and provide for tie-downs would make it a great way to haul. Even without a camper behind, it would seem to be an easier lift system.
We have an old aluminum canoe (1949) and don't use it because of the lifting issues. It weighs 80lbs, and while I can carry it on my shoulders and lift it up, it isn't easy anymore. I'm trying to get a way to fabricate a set up to make it easier to load, maybe we would use it more. Or just buy a kevlar, but not sure I want to spend the money if we didn't use it.
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Old 09-28-2018, 01:38 PM   #27
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You can gets all kinds of racks for mounting canoes to trucks including ft
Upright support poles for the front bumper.

As to mounting things to the to of fiberglass RVs. It is certainly possible to work with a sheet metal fabrication shop to design custom brackets to put on the trailer that will adapt to various cross bar systems such as Thule. The closer you greet to the transition area where the rooms curves down to become the sidewall the stronger the structure for supporting weight. The shape of that transition area functions as a lateral structural beam. It is the strongest area on the trailer other than the 4 vertical corners which are your functional upright beams. All it takes is a little understanding for what makes a fiberglass structure self supporting. The top 4 corners are the strongest places on the trailer for supporting weight. So design your cross bar positions with that in mind, up y
To perhaps a a quarter to a third at most away from the front and back along the left and right side but spread width wise as close to the transition curve as you can get them.
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Old 09-28-2018, 07:33 PM   #28
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A Snoozy is probably the only shell I would be willing to carry a canoe on. The other thinner shell trailers might get deformed. Just my uninformed opinion. When I was a kid, Dad used styrofoam blocks to hold the canoe off the roof surface of our '73 Vega. The 4 blocks were shaped to fit onto the gunwales.
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Old 09-28-2018, 07:57 PM   #29
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When the primary objective of a trip is kayaking we'll put our fiberglass boats on top of the TV. For trips where there may be the occasional opportunity to paddle, we take folding pakboat Quests. http://pakboats.com/folding-kayaks/


The Quests are a nice compromise in that they handle more like a rigid boat but travel in a duffel bag like an inflatable.
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Old 09-29-2018, 10:39 AM   #30
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Talking small kayaks

These work fine for us, [as carried upside down] on the Bak-Flip pickup bed cover of the Frontier Long-bed TV (bed is 73")

https://www.academy.com/shop/browse/...-sports/kayaks

WE got them on sale as "demos" for about 35% off last sumer at our local Academy Sports emporium. .

Note, just bks these are "short boats" (Pelican Argo80s), do not get the shortest paddles.
Do not ask how we know.
The store was OK with us switching to longer paddles , after trying the short ones.
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Old 09-29-2018, 10:56 PM   #31
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I watched the Pakboat assembly video. Oh me oh my, so many pieces to put together in the proper order! Looks like a three ring circus to me.
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Old 09-30-2018, 03:37 AM   #32
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heh, the hobie 'mirage drive' kayaks are like 12-16 feet long depending on model... a couple of them would fit just fine on yakima racks on the roof of f250 longbed, and not even stick out
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Old 09-30-2018, 08:32 AM   #33
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Just like everything these days, there are a LOT of options, many of them good. I just got a surprise early Christmas present a little over a month ago, and it was a folding hard shell kayak. The idea was great, but it just wasn’t going to work for my lifestyle and what I use kayaks for. But it looked like a good quality boat and took up about the amount of space as my portable solar panel. Pretty cool.

They don’t come cheap though.

Around 8 years ago I made the decision that I needed my own way to get out on the water. I thought for a while about how I’d want to use a boat, and the best compromise was a canoe. It pretty strictly limits the types of rivers I can float (at my skill level), but felt like the best all around floatation device for my wants.

It has about the worst packability of any of the boats I considered, but checked the most boxes as far as use.
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Old 09-30-2018, 09:04 AM   #34
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pelican boats

https://www.academy.com/shop/pdp/pel...tSku=114095239

27 lbs, easy loaders and seem to work fine for me..(205 lbs). Sure, not as fine "tracking" as a loooonnng kayak, but it is a simple, inexpensive boat for playing around while camping w/o messing around w expensive carriers. Can often be found on sale, as we did, at Academy Sports...where of course they also sell paddles and life vests. We made our own simple tethers from papra-cord & a couple of small, light-weight caribiners............
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Old 09-30-2018, 09:31 AM   #35
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This may not help Mark (the OP), but may be of interest to others. About two years ago we sold two kayaks (37 lbs each) and a Royalex canoe (74 lbs) and bought two Hornbeck 10' boats (15 lbs each). Ultra Light Custom Pack Canoes made in the Adirondack Mountains Expensive, but easy to handle, carry in one hand. They ride on the Tacoma roof rack, stacked one above the other, in a light weight frame, to avoid interference with the Scamp.
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Old 10-03-2018, 11:51 AM   #36
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Sorry, I just had to

Sorry, I just had to be the grammar nazi
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Old 10-03-2018, 02:15 PM   #37
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I've been very happy with the Thule rack on my Frontier. The canoe is 16 feet and weighs about 60 lbs. Takes about 5 minutes to install or remove the rack once you mark the locations. Not cheap ($350 new?) but very secure. The last thing I want is my canoe travelling on its own.
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Old 10-07-2018, 06:22 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor Harold View Post
Sorry, I just had to be the grammar nazi
Then I need to police your post. It was a spelling mistake, not a grammar one.

BTW, I too saw the mistake right away, but thought best not to worry about it.
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Old 10-07-2018, 07:01 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor Harold View Post
Sorry, I just had to be the grammar nazi
Grammar Error Alert! There is no period at the end of the above sentence!

Note: Capitalization of the first letter of "Nazi" is more likely proper than not, but this is open to some debate and so it has not been flagged as a grammatical error in this case.



Now back to the watercraft discussion. I want to thank everyone for their comments. I have wanted to take a small kayak or canoe with me for some time. The $2,000 inflatables are nice but it is hard to justify that cost when something for 5% of that price might suffice. So I am still undecided and thinking about it. Keep the comments coming.
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Old 10-07-2018, 07:40 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctor Harold View Post
Sorry, I just had to be the grammar nazi
Since I may have been the party that prompted the lively spelling discussion, please let me clarify. I did in fact mean that my inflatable kayak came with a large "unattractive woman" who helps with tracking. A skeg may do the same but it wont keep you warm at night.

I hope this clarifies the issue for all concerned.
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