All Electric Casita

[HomeCamp]

Hello,
Has anyone here purchased the new Casita All-Electric Option, "No Propane Casita"? If so, I'm curious as to how it's working out for you.
Any Regrets? I've been considering it.
Thanks, Dan

[Sunnyfalls]

Originally Posted by HomeCamp

Hello,
Has anyone here purchased the new Casita All-Electric Option, "No Propane Casita"? If so, I'm curious as to how it's working out for you.
Any Regrets? I've been considering it.
Thanks, Dan

Castia has changed things up considerably since we purchased our 2023 LD. They likely offer an all electric option to provide a lower entry cost point for potential buyers. Having more options is likely a better business model for them and provides more flexibility for buyers too.

However, I wouldn't think the all electric option would be very popular with a small trailer like the Casita. I suspect most folks who purchase a small trailer do so to have the flexibility of doing dry camping where using propane makes more sense, especially in regard to operating power hungry refrigerators and air conditioning. I can understand how the folks who purchase behemoth MHs would prefer all electric because they are pretty much chained to hookups in parking lots...unless they also spend another fortune to create a battery and solar panel system to enable doing dry camping.

Gayle & Bob
"Los Gatos Casita"

[Mike Magee]

No experience here, but a couple of observations. The number of people who would buy an all-electric trailer in the aftermarket is a small subset of those would would buy some trailer. Resale value might be a factor. On the other hand, some folks are comforted by the absence of flammable fuels, so there's that also.

[Sunnyfalls]

Yeah, I can fully understand how one might be concerned about propane systems. But there are no shortage of electrical fires and people getting accidentally electrocuted. One should fully understand the systems being used, be fully aware of the associated issues and apply due diligence in managing and mitigating the risk.

BTW, Casita badly miss-wired our microwave outlet. Someone apparently cut the ground wire too short and then just jumpered the neutral to the ground. So the outlet tested fine with a typical tester, but it dangerously put 120VAC onto the ground system whenever something was plugged into this outlet and used. If it were not for the Casita fiberglass shell (e.g.. if we instead had a metal shelled Airstream), I might not be writing this now. I rightly or wrongly attribute this quality control failure to Covid era staffing issues. And we only discovered this issue when replacing all of our 15A outlets with 20A outlets given the wiring was 12AWG and the OEM circuit breakers were 20A.

Gayle & Bob
"Los Gatos Casita"

[Sunnyfalls]

And something else to consider too...

Our absorption cycle refrigerator can operate on 120VAC. In addition to our propane cooktop, we also have a 240VAC induction cooktop...and 120VAC induction cooktops are lame. We have a 240VAC/propane tankless water heater. Our air conditioner operates on 120VAC, but we can operate it on propane using our Honda EU2200i generator during the rare occasions it is needed.

So we can be either All-Electric or All-Propane as desired/needed. And only using a 100AH LiFiPO4 battery, 200 Watt portable solar suitcase that can always be placed in direct sun and a 3000 Watt Inverter, we can dry glamp forever as long as we can source food, water and propane. And when we have a hookup, we don't need to use any propane at all making removing the propane tanks an option if a lower tongue weight is desired/needed.

Gayle & Bob
"Los Gatos Casita"

[CarlD]

Being all electric doesn't preclude boondocking. The overlanding camper I built is all electric with a diesel heater. It has a 12 volt 230 Ah LFP battery, 600 watts of solar, portable induction cooktop, 12 volt compressor fridge, LED lighting, 2000 watt inverter. I tested the induction cooktop which consumed about 350 watt-hours of energy to make coffee, eggs and toast for 2 people. I also built a heat exchanger that mates to the diesel heater outlet for heating water for showers or whatever. Per my estimates I should be OK for 4 days with no solar charging. Fall back case, I can charge from the TV. As much as I dislike the smell of diesel I designed for it anyway as it has a 50% higher volumetric energy density compared to propane and is very easy to procure. Water is generally the limiting factor for boondocking with any camper.

[Sunnyfalls]

Originally Posted by CarlD

Being all electric doesn't preclude boondocking. The overlanding camper I built is all electric with a diesel heater. It has a 12 volt 230 Ah LFP battery, 600 watts of solar, portable induction cooktop, 12 volt compressor fridge, LED lighting, 2000 watt inverter. I tested the induction cooktop which consumed about 350 watt-hours of energy to make coffee, eggs and toast for 2 people. I also built a heat exchanger that mates to the diesel heater outlet for heating water for showers or whatever. Per my estimates I should be OK for 4 days with no solar charging. Fall back case, I can charge from the TV. As much as I dislike the smell of diesel I designed for it anyway as it has a 50% higher volumetric energy density compared to propane and is very easy to procure. Water is generally the limiting factor for boondocking with any camper.

True, you can be All-Electric and dry camp. There are folks who install 1000s of battery AHs, large solar panels and large inverters to enable operating everything including compressor refrigerators and air conditioning. Personally, I think that approach is overly expensive, foolish and more dangerous than using propane no matter how safe LiFePO4 batteries have become.

If I understand your approach, you use diesel in order to heat your living space and water while dry camping...so you are NOT All-Electric when dry camping. You essentially use diesel whereas we use propane when dry camping. We carry two 20 pound propane tanks when dry camping and we typically replenish the low propane tank about every one to two weeks. We just conveniently do this when replenishing our water and food. We also dislike the smell of diesel and gasoline exhaust and we also prefer to avoid the additional hassle of sourcing and storing it relative to just replenishing our propane tanks. Propane also never goes bad and doesn't gum up generator fuel systems. As long as you understand the energy capacity of whatever fuel you use and then design your system with that in mind, all will be good.

We also personally never use the term "boondocking". Having actually done wilderness camping in the real boonies most of our life, we now mostly do "dry glamping". We can't really call it dry camping because even though we don't have hookups, our Casita trailer is too comfortable or "glamorous" to call what we do camping. And while we take our Casita to very remote locations like the jungles of Costa Rica, these locations are reached via roads and have little resemblance in terms of natural beauty and being unspoiled by people compared to real boonies.

Gayle & Bob
"Los Gatos Casita"

[Jon in AZ]

I notice the OP has already owned an all-electric model, a Lil Snoozy according to his profile. So it seems like he knows what he is getting into.

I’m wondering what about the Casita is prompting the question. Is he asking how the electrical set-ups compare, or is this a more general question about layout, quality, towing, etc.?

The all-electric package on the Casita has only been out a year or so, and I’d guess the take rate is low. The odds of finding someone who has had one long enough to know the ins and outs will be greater on a Casita forum or FB group.

[jgilliam1955]

We almost bought a Snoozy but got a Casita. Stopped at a rest stop and used propane for lunch. I knew then I would never go with just one source. All electric Casita would have to be plugged in. It seems to small for solar you would need.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by jgilliam1955

We almost bought a Snoozy but got a Casita. Stopped at a rest stop and used propane for lunch. I knew then I would never go with just one source. All electric Casita would have to be plugged in. It seems to small for solar you would need.

If memory serves, Casita's solar package has 200AH of lithium batteries, a 200W portable solar suitcase, and a 2000W inverter. That would be a good start for making the all-electric unit off-grid usable. That's likely a pretty significant investment to avoid propane.

I'm also recalling the all-electric package has a 12V compressor fridge and a power hungry 120V induction cooking unit, but a microwave run off the inverter could serve for quick, on-the-go hot meals.

Space heating and cooling are always the stumbling blocks for 100% electric set-ups used off-grid.

[CarlD]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

If memory serves, Casita's solar package has 200AH of lithium batteries, a 200W portable solar suitcase, and a 2000W inverter. That would be a good start for making the all-electric unit off-grid usable. That's likely a pretty significant investment to avoid propane.

I'm also recalling the all-electric package has a 12V compressor fridge and a power hungry 120V induction cooking unit, but a microwave run off the inverter could serve for quick, on-the-go hot meals.

Space heating and cooling are always the stumbling blocks for 100% electric set-ups used off-grid.

Jon, as you say, space heating and cooling are the biggest issues for all electric. I am not fond of the diesel smells and mess, but opted for it for space heating in this design because of availability, smaller space requirements, and low cost of the heater. I haven't done the analysis but I also think diesel is cheaper especially when compared to the prefilled propane tanks. As I stated earlier in this thread, I can also use it to heat water for bathing. When heating water for cooking and dishes we use the induction cooktop. I also have a LG 5000 BTU AC unit from HD that draws 28 amps from the 12 volt system. My 600 watts of solar produces over 400 watts in December in New York. I am sure it will do better in the cooling months. My expectations are that 600 watts will be adequate to run the AC all day plus recharge the battery. Time will tell. As a side note, the trailer is well insulated, 1 1/2 inches of foam on the walls and ceiling and 2 inches on the floor. It is also only 10' x 7'. The solar panels cover about 85-90% of the roof so solar thermal loading is minimized. Time will tell. Regarding cost, I have about $1500 invested in solar panels, inverter, LFP battery and solar charge controller. Certainly more than a propane based system, but the AC will be nice to have and I don't have to carry a generator!

[jgilliam1955]

How many years does the batteries last and the replacement cost. I had a Electric Riding mower for 10 years. Replaced the batteries twice at $1200.

[CarlD]

LFP batteries last many years, many discharge cycles and have become quite inexpensive. You can buy my Li Time 230 AH 12 volt for $550. If it lasts 5 years, I won't complain.

[Jann Todd]

Originally Posted by CarlD

LFP batteries last many years, many discharge cycles and have become quite inexpensive. You can buy my Li Time 230 AH 12 volt for $550. If it lasts 5 years, I won't complain.

My lead acid battery lasts 5 years and costs less than $200. Plus I don't have to worry about lithium battery fires. I can dry camp for 5 days and don't need a generator or solar. I use propane for heating water, fridge and cooking. We fill the propane bottles once a year is all. If the furnace has to run then it does eat the battery fast but we can charge the battery with our TV or a small generator if we take it. Simple and easy system.

[Sunnyfalls]

Originally Posted by Jann Todd

My lead acid battery lasts 5 years and costs less than $200. Plus I don't have to worry about lithium battery fires. I can dry camp for 5 days and don't need a generator or solar. I use propane for heating water, fridge and cooking. We fill the propane bottles once a year is all. If the furnace has to run then it does eat the battery fast but we can charge the battery with our TV or a small generator if we take it. Simple and easy system.

Yep...precisely...critical thinking skills are wonderful...

The only reason we went LiFePO4 was we got it for free for experimentation. It's the same Group 27 size at the LA battery it replaced. But it is half the weight, has twice the usable AH capacity (100 versus 50AH), can be charged in one fifth the time and can discharge 270A continuously for 20 minutes. That enables powering everything for endless dry glamping except air conditioning...which we rarely ever need.

Gayle & Bob
"Los Gatos Casita"

[CarlD]

Originally Posted by Sunnyfalls

Yep...precisely...critical thinking skills are wonderful...

The only reason we went LiFePO4 was we got it for free for experimentation. It's the same Group 27 size at the LA battery it replaced. But it is half the weight, has twice the usable AH capacity (100 versus 50AH), can be charged in one fifth the time and can discharge 270A continuously for 20 minutes. That enables powering everything for endless dry glamping except air conditioning...which we rarely ever need.

Gayle & Bob
"Los Gatos Casita"

First let me say, I post on this forum to present ideas and designs that might interest and inspire others. We all have our opinions and opt for designs and
technologies that best fit our desires. I am building a camper from a blank piece of paper and, obviously, the rationale behind the build is not public, so here it goes.

Design criteria: We are not spring chickens anymore. Overlanding, cold weather capable, low weight, inside cooking, inside shower, sleeping for 2, low maintenance, all electric except for space heating. I guess you could call it an overlanding glamping trailer, but that's what we want.

1. Fridges: The only propane fridges that I have ever owned that worked great were Servels. No electricity, weighed a ton, required routine maintenance, and only killed one of my friends. We kept ours in our shed. My RV propane fridges never cooled well at high ambient temperatures or altitudes. There are numerous threads available on this subject. Why would I put one in my camper build! So a compressor fridge was chosen.

2. Batteries: As stated above LFP batteries have many advantages. I might add that, considering expected lifetime and percent of energy availability the cost is actually cheaper than LA batteries. You can find cost analysis at ytube university. This was an easy decision.

3. Electrical power sources: You have generators, shore power, TV, and solar and they all work fine and all have pros and cons. I opted for solar panels due to the independence they offer. You can purchase a 100 watt panel for $50-$60 online. 600 watts cost about the same as a mid-range generator but you don't have to carry it or fuel. You just have to design to reduce the EV equivalent of 'range anxiety'. I am comfortable with 600 watts solar and 230 AH LFP battery plus TV charging.

4. Cooking: Propane works great, I have it in my house, camp and Lil Hauley. The new camper is small and designed to be as light as I can practically make it. I could carry a small propane tank for cooking and water and space heating, however, I needed 12 volt for my fridge, so I sized the system to support induction cooking and heating water. Not good for space heating.

5. Space heating/cooling: The elephant in the room, as stated previously in this thread, for an all electric design. Perhaps with enough solar and energy storage one could run a heat pump. This was not an option for my design, so I opted for diesel over propane, based on availability, cost, and energy density (lower weight and space). In warmer months the camper is all electric and can truly run endlessly except for water and occasional very long stretches of cloudy weather. I even have enough electrical capacity to heat water for bathing using the induction cooktop. As stated earlier and, as a bonus, I have ample electrical capacity to run an AC unit on sunny days. Also I have a way to use the space heater to heat shower size quantities of water, reducing the usage of the battery. I derive great satisfaction realizing designs.

There are obviously other aspects to consider, however, I'm not going to get into the minutiae here. Maybe I will do a video of the build.

So, yes, I agree....critical thinking skills are wonderful...