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Old 05-20-2016, 05:20 PM   #21
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Name: Robert
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Originally Posted by Raz View Post
No dirt. I like lexel but the down side is it cures very quickly. Once out of the tube, you get about 10 seconds to do any tooling.

You got that right. I used a thin bead of clear Lexel on either side of an LED strip I installed under the awning. Started to gum up as I tooled it. Then I realized a bead more than a foot long wouldn't work because it was curing too quickly.



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Old 05-20-2016, 05:49 PM   #22
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Yes...Dicor self-leveling for roofs but the post wanted one general caulk for a fiberglass RV and they do not have roof seams and never leak ?
This is tongue-in-cheek, right?

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Originally Posted by Bluetang99 View Post
There is butyl tape around the windows, I figured since I'm doing everything else I might as well add some caulking to the windows as extra protection. The windows don't leak or anything so we'll see, maybe I'll just do everything else and leave the windows for some other time.
I know that window seals can leak. I had one on a fiberglass motorhome leak, but it wasn't leaking through the seal between the fiberglass and window, it was leaking through the rope seal on the automotive rubber seal. That took a different approach, NAPA #4121 windshield sealant. Black automotive-type seals can shrink with age, and the NAPA 4121 can be very effective at stopping that kind of leak.

The few window leaks I've had on trailers have been because the drain track (on sliding windows) got clogged, and the water backed up in the track and spilled over inside the coach. Before you go tearing windows out, run a piece of weed wacker line through the weep holes in your window to make sure they're free of debris and draining. The previous owner couldn't figure out why the top sliding windows were leaking (and rotted out the shelving) in my Class-B. He disclosed it, and had smeared silicone ALL around the seals... and it was that the weep holes had been plugged for fifteen years letting water run inside. They don't leak any more!
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Old 05-21-2016, 06:00 AM   #23
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It is not very hard to take out the sliding window pane and completely clean the drain channel and the weep holes. You need to pull out the U-shaped rubber piece that the pane slides in. Slide the pane part way and you can work on it more easily. When it is out, the pane can be lifted out. The drain system of the window frame is then exposed and accessible.
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