Cabinet Locks - Fiberglass RV
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:02 PM   #1
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Cabinet Locks

There are various versions of this.
Would this keep doors and drawers in place
during transport?

Amazon.com: Spring Loaded Cabinet and Drawer Latch, 4 pack: Home & Kitchen

Some are listed as child locks.

http://www.amazon.com/Parents-Magazi.../dp/B001YQT960
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:40 PM   #2
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I can only describe my situation. The doors on my Scamp cabinets have never come open. Yes, I stick to asphalt. I have purchased a couple of these bars... which keep the pots and pans and cans of soup from hitting the doors: Single Cupboard Bar, 3-Pack - White - Four Corners Sourcing 69818 - Space Savers - Camping World They also work in the refrigerator to keep items back away from the door.
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:56 PM   #3
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We've had a number of doors open over time, partially because we don't stick to black top and partially because we have a lot more drawers and cabinets than a standard Scamp. We have 10 or 11 drawers and cabinets that were not present in our Scamp when we bought it. We recently purchased door and cabinet locks by Phlip It as suggest by Dave and Paula.

Phlip-It RV Cabinet Latches
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:47 PM   #4
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We live in earthquake country (California) and these latches are recommended to minimize items from falling out of drawers and cabinets in case of quake. We used them when our son was a toddler but decided they are too much of a pain to use on a daily basis. We will take our chances in a quake. We, too, are looking for a cabinet latching system that will make sense for our trailer. Because of the thin fiberglass in our trailers, the Phlip-It seems to be the best solution, albeit a bit expensive. The latches also come in packets of left and right yet I do not have an even amount of left/right orientation and would end up with extras. Another solution could be locking cabinets, but I really don't need the security or the hassle of dealing with keys. Amazon.com: Prime-Line Products U 9943 7/8-Inch Diecast Cam Lock with 3 Cams, Stainless Face: Home Improvement
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Old 09-25-2013, 08:53 PM   #5
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Norm and Ginny,
In installing the Phlip-It latches did you do anything special to install the screw into the fiberglass? Does the latch come with a metal screw (flat back as opposed to pointy back for wood) with a nut and locking washer?
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Old 09-25-2013, 09:11 PM   #6
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The Phlip-it latches come with 4 screws for the two latches in the package. Two are brass like the latch to attach it to the cabinet door, the other two are plain, flat back, or sheet metal type screw for the latch to hook to, or maybe it's the other way around with the screws. I bought two sets thinking I would use them in our Uhaul, but our cabinet doors are not solid, they are hollow plastic so I'm not sure how a screw will hold in that or how the screw the latch hooks on will hold in the fiberglass, so I haven't tried to install them yet. At this time I'm probably not going to use them on the cabinets. I have a hook & eye to hold the closet shut, and a long dowel across the upper cabinets that goes through two screw eyes to hold them shut. Our Uhaul is an early production model that does not have the turn type cabinet latches. Gilda, I can open the package and send you a pic if you want to give me your email.
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Old 09-25-2013, 09:14 PM   #7
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Gilda, I just ordered 12. I 'll let you know when I install them.
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:08 PM   #8
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I use bungee cords--one bungee cord for the upper kitchen cabinet doors, one for the closet door, and one that holds the solar panel in its case against the lower kitchen cabinet doors so they don't open. The silverware drawer has its own lock as does the Dometic fridge. The overhead cabinet doors stay closed unless I'm going down a really bumpy road, which is rare.
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Old 09-25-2013, 10:53 PM   #9
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Mary and Bob,
You can send me a private message (PM) by clicking on my name. Others may be interested in the photos too, so you could just post them in your reply. Than you.
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Old 09-26-2013, 05:11 AM   #10
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Gilda, the link I included shows installation and operation. We have plywood doors. I believe the fiberglass will hold the locking screw. If not I'll use a screw and nut.
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Old 09-26-2013, 06:02 AM   #11
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I believe the fiberglass will hold the locking screw. If not I'll use a screw and nut.[/QUOTE]

If I proceed with installation of these latches I was thinking I would use a screw & nut. The screw that the latch hooks under has to stick out from the surface slightly, so these would work best in wood rather than fiberglass. We're off to a vintage trailer rally so not able to post pictures at this time.
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Old 09-28-2013, 11:38 AM   #12
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Philp-It Cabinet Locks.
I installed my first lock. It requires drilling in the fiberglass face. It seems the supplied screw will hold.

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Old 09-28-2013, 11:51 AM   #13
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Going back to the original question about using child-proof latches:

I have found (the hard way I might add) that drawers and doors have to be held closed tight. Drawers and doors that can move even the 1" required to release that type of latch, will slam in and out until they break the latch. I prefer turn-type exterior latches that hold things closed from the outside and can easily be seen when in locked.

Until they repeal that rule about "Objects in Motion", it's best to prevent any movement.



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Old 09-28-2013, 11:52 AM   #14
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Looks good Norm! Thanks for sharing.
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Old 09-28-2013, 01:15 PM   #15
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There are two issues with these latches. The first is general and described in the installation instructions. The screw head on the back of the cabinet door needs to be inside the cabinet door opening.

The second is the use of the locking screw in the fiberglass front of the trailer's cabinets. I've installed four in fiberglass and one of them resulted in a little chip around the screw hole.

Bob, you're right about motion. The worse culprit is the utensil drawer in our rig. I'll be curious to see if any of the locking screws lossen.

Gilda, I did not do anything special for the fiberglass mounted screws except open the holes a little more than suggested.

ALl screws are phillips head, I wish they were the Canadian square drive screws, particularly because the screw thru the fiberglass is brass and takes effort to insert.
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Old 09-28-2013, 03:44 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
All screws are phillips head, I wish they were the Canadian square drive screws, particularly because the screw thru the fiberglass is brass and takes effort to insert.
If the screw head tends to strip out, you could try stainless steel screws instead of the brass. Another positive-drive alternative to Robertson (which is apparently hard to find in the U.S.) is Torx.
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Old 09-28-2013, 06:40 PM   #17
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Norm,
Thanks for the photo. A picture is truly worth 1,000 words! I never thought of installing them on the side like that!
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:43 PM   #18
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Gilda,

I've installed a dozen latches now and found that a 9/64th inch drill in fiberglass for the brass screws eliminates chipping and holds the screw well.
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Old 09-30-2013, 12:58 PM   #19
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Why do I need cabinet locks?
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Old 09-30-2013, 02:01 PM   #20
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You may not need them. We have a couple that open regularly, the utensil drawer and the under fridge canned drink storage. As well the two large under the dinette drawers. In part it depends on the road and in part what's in them.

We have 24 drawers and cabinets and did 12.

The worse offender has been the fridge but we resolved that with an o-ring sometime ago.
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