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Old 12-21-2018, 05:11 PM   #21
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Name: John
Trailer: Black Series HQ19
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 2,372
I've never used or needed an anti-sway device and it may have partially been because I tend to have heavy, full sized trucks.

All trailers sway. Sway is not just the uncontrolled increasing type, it's just normal movement. Cross winds, passing trucks, ruts and steering inputs are a few things that initiate it, but the trailer should settle down within a couple of cycles. In fact, I test mine by making it do it and judging how quickly it returns to straight and stable.

I have never seen some specific speed at which sway is unavoidable. I'm sure 30 is safer than 60, but that doesn't mean 70 is a guaranteed crash or that there is a magic number where uncontrolled sway is guaranteed. And as far as towing at 55-60 MPH, try towing at that speed in some rural areas where the traffic is going 70-80. Idaho is a good example of two lane roads with semi-trucks and everyone else going way faster than I think they should. It's hard to say if keeping up is more dangerous than constantly being passed. Fortunately, my Oliver tows like it's on rails and I have never seen a speed that was inherently unstable.

Make sure the trailer brakes are working properly and set them to be slightly more aggressive than the tow vehicle. Know how to apply them manually at the controller, if needed, as that is how you fix uncontrolled sway. If your trailer seems "busy" back there, get an anti-sway device for peace of mind. Distribute the weight properly and be careful about putting weight on the rear bumper of the trailer. Or just don't put it there at all. Tow with a vehicle that is not near it's maximum tow rating, it's much better to have too much truck, than not enough. Have stiff trailer tires that are aired up properly. Try to pick a trailer that has no designed in weight distribution problems, such as a large water tank in the front or too much rear overhang. If it's a choice between a tandem axle and a single axle, pick the tandem. Etc, etc. Most of this is common sense stuff. I try to avoid any special hitches partly because they are a hassle and I disconnect and re-connect a lot. Just takes a minute and we are free to wander without the trailer. I also don't want to buy that complicated thing just as insurance. If I need it, fine, but if I don't, I don't.
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Old 12-21-2018, 05:17 PM   #22
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Name: John
Trailer: Black Series HQ19
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 2,372
I've never used or needed an anti-sway device and it may have partially been because I tend to have heavy, full sized trucks.

All trailers sway. Sway is not just the uncontrolled increasing type, it's just normal movement. Cross winds, passing trucks, ruts and steering inputs are a few things that initiate it, but the trailer should settle down within a couple of cycles. In fact, I test mine by making it do it and judging how quickly it returns to straight and stable.

I have never seen some specific speed at which sway is unavoidable. I'm sure 30 is safer than 60, but that doesn't mean 70 is a guaranteed crash or that there is a magic number where uncontrolled sway is going to happen. And as far as towing at 55-60 MPH, try towing at that speed in some rural areas where the traffic is going 70-80. Idaho is a good example of two lane roads with semi-trucks and everyone else going way faster than I think they should. It's hard to say if keeping up is more dangerous than constantly being passed. Fortunately, my Oliver tows like it's on rails and I have never seen a speed that was inherently unstable.

Make sure the trailer brakes are working properly and set them to be slightly more aggressive than the tow vehicle. Know how to apply them manually at the controller, if needed, as that is how you fix uncontrolled sway. If your trailer seems "busy" back there, get an anti-sway device for peace of mind. Distribute the weight properly and be careful about putting weight on the rear bumper of the trailer. Or just don't put it there at all. Tow with a vehicle that is not near it's maximum tow rating, it's much better to have too much truck, than not enough. Have stiff trailer tires that are aired up properly. Try to pick a trailer that has no designed in weight distribution problems, such as a large water tank in the front or too much rear overhang. If it's a choice between a tandem axle and a single axle, pick the tandem. Etc, etc. Most of this is common sense stuff. I try to avoid any special hitches partly because they are a hassle and I disconnect and re-connect a lot. Just takes a minute and we are free to wander without the trailer. I also don't want to buy that complicated thing just as insurance. If I need it, fine, but if I don't, I don't.
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Old 12-21-2018, 05:18 PM   #23
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Name: Shelby
Trailer: Casita SD
Tennessee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
I can ask you the same question. Safety and equipement wear and tear are concern. SO WHAT IT TO YOU WHAT I THINK OR TRY TO CONVIENCE SOMEBODY?
When we get so excited that we have to SHOUT and in such a hurry to post that we ignore our spell check, maybe we need a time out.
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Old 12-21-2018, 05:19 PM   #24
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Smith Valley, Nevada
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Double post for emphasis?! Dunno.
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Old 12-21-2018, 05:21 PM   #25
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Trailer: Black Series HQ19
Smith Valley, Nevada
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Originally Posted by ShelbyM View Post
When we get so excited that we have to SHOUT and in such a hurry to post that we ignore our spell check, maybe we need a time out.
Yep.
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Old 12-21-2018, 05:27 PM   #26
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Name: Fredrick
Trailer: Escape 21C
Tennessee
Posts: 318
Talking 2 sway or not 2 sway? THAT izza thuh ??

LOL we do not choose to sway..we tow our Casita 17' with our 2017 Frontier v6 2wd, dbl cab, long bed truck w T cap of 6500 lbs and with a decent load in the truck bed. We tow at factory recomended 60-62 mph..with the factory-installed anti-sway bar No problemo since April when we picked it up at Rice TX factory..6000+ miles of happy camping this season so far. AS U can see in our pix she rides level.
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Old 12-21-2018, 05:34 PM   #27
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Trailer: Black Series HQ19
Smith Valley, Nevada
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Hey Byron, I just read your signature. Please review it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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Old 12-21-2018, 05:39 PM   #28
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Name: Bruce & Kathryn
Trailer: Bigfoot 25 RQ
North Carolina
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Did not use any WDH with my Oliver behind a 2500 Chevy diesel, but many in that community love their Andersens. Never felt any need for it, but tongue weight was 680#. My Bigfoot is nearly twice that, and the Equalizer really gets the weight off the hitch. Both trailers tow straight and true in all road and traffic conditions.
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Old 12-21-2018, 06:57 PM   #29
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Name: Alan
Trailer: 2010 Little Joe / 2010 2 Dr Jeep Wrangler
Colorado
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Ok everyone needs to take a deep breath
This site used to be very helpful... when and why did it start to go down hill
Here is my take
Opinions are like A/-holes everyone has one
Letís all return to our normal programming
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Old 12-21-2018, 07:19 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by alan H View Post
Ok everyone needs to take a deep breath
This site used to be very helpful... when and why did it start to go down hill
Here is my take
Opinions are like A/-holes everyone has one
Letís all return to our normal programming

I guess that's your opinion.
How do you propose that the site return to your version of a helpful site?
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Old 12-21-2018, 07:48 PM   #31
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Name: John
Trailer: Black Series HQ19
Smith Valley, Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
I guess that's your opinion.
How do you propose that the site return to your version of a helpful site?
Yep. I'm waiting to hear why we can't have an opinion.
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Old 12-21-2018, 07:59 PM   #32
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The issue isnít opinions more like the tone and negativity that is being used on occasions
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Old 12-21-2018, 09:48 PM   #33
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I just rated this thread - how many stars did I give it?
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Old 12-22-2018, 12:18 AM   #34
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Name: Byron
Trailer: 2006 Scamp 13' towed with a 2005 Dodge Dakota 4.7l Magnum W/full tow package (over kill)
Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShelbyM View Post
When we get so excited that we have to SHOUT and in such a hurry to post that we ignore our spell check, maybe we need a time out.
Speak for yourself please. You don't have the right to criticize me or anybody else here.
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Old 12-22-2018, 12:22 AM   #35
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Trailer: 2006 Scamp 13' towed with a 2005 Dodge Dakota 4.7l Magnum W/full tow package (over kill)
Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raspy View Post
Hey Byron, I just read your signature. Please review it.
I would guess that doesn't make sense to you. Let explain. Since both of us are retired everyday is just like a Saturday used to .
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Old 12-22-2018, 02:03 AM   #36
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Name: John
Trailer: Black Series HQ19
Smith Valley, Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman View Post
I would guess that doesn't make sense to you. Let explain. Since both of us are retired everyday is just like a Saturday used to .
You made the point that everyday was Saturday and I get it. Just wanted to remind you of that.

Being yelled at with jumbled capitalized word spray, cracks me up, and is so not Saturday.

Peace.
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Old 12-22-2018, 06:25 AM   #37
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Name: Bruce & Kathryn
Trailer: Bigfoot 25 RQ
North Carolina
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Diesel versus gas
WDH versus none
Andersen versus Equalizer
LT versus ST
Instant potatoes
Okra
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Old 12-22-2018, 08:19 AM   #38
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Name: John
Trailer: Black Series HQ19
Smith Valley, Nevada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Olive View Post
Diesel versus gas
WDH versus none
Andersen versus Equalizer
LT versus ST
Instant potatoes
Okra
Oooops. You forgot to capitalize!
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Old 12-22-2018, 08:34 AM   #39
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,109
Some want a FGRV for the exact reason that they were advertised as small, lightweight, easy to tow with a smaller car.
I have one for that reason so that I could tow with my VW TDI Sportwagen. It did OK, but then they were recalled I bought a 2016 Town and Country that get 28 MPG highway, 22 around town and 16 mpg towing the 16' Scamp (heavy).
I don't want to drive a truck all the time or for that matter any of the time.
The T&C calls for a WDH over 1800 lbs and the factory hitch is designed for the load.
It handled better and safer with the WDH and since I use a light weight Reese Mini 350 anti-sway is an integral part of the hitch. If you know how ti use it is is not so bad to hook up and remove.
The T&C has trailer stabilization that also makes the rig safer See the You Tube below.
It is different strokes for different folks.
We just finished out long two month tour of Yellowstone and points in between and had absolutely no issues over the 9300 miles traveled.
The new vehicles, with the stabilization are probably far safer that the older one without.
Make sure that the one you get has ALL of the factory tow packages as many manufacturers systems can only be included at the factory during programming during the build.
The Fords come to mind as an example. These systems are due to the requirements from the European Union for towing there. Manufacturers who sell into both the North American zone and Europe are the ones with the most systems in their cars and trucks.
Often when you add a hitch to a vehicle without the factory system they are limited to much less weight than the full system.
https://youtu.be/w0RSLPBtCtw
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Old 12-22-2018, 10:49 AM   #40
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Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
British Columbia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Olive View Post
Diesel versus gas
WDH versus none
Andersen versus Equalizer
LT versus ST
Instant potatoes
Okra

Silicon.
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