First time RVer - Scamp parked outside full time?

[John in Kansas]

Hello everyone!


I'm trying to figure out a path for us, for sort of dual purposes.


We live out in rural Kansas, on an old farmstead (not farmers ourselves). There is a pasture with a creek on our property and I love to go hiking down there, and also camping with a tent. But as life gets busier, the hours of prep that go into tent camping (and the return from it) makes it increasingly rare. Plus, with rather hot summers it's unpleasant to spend a lot of time setting up, etc.


We also visit state parks and such periodically. We sometimes get a cabin there, but they tend to be booked up months in advance. Tent camping at those places takes even more time, and often there are no "primitive" tent sites, so you wind up near the RVs with their generators and ACs - not pleasant if you don't really have a door to close. We don't tend to take long road trips.


So I had this thought: why not get an RV of some sort, leave it parked out by the pasture, and then periodically we could also take it with us to go camping at a lake or something. While it's here, I could see myself spending an hour or two out there several times a week during most of the year - breakfast during summer, maybe take my laptop out there to work mid-afternoon during winter, etc.


We don't own a pickup, but our minivan ought to be able to tow something smallish without any problems. Being able to sleep 4 would meet our needs.


I started looking at the 13' Scamp trailers. If we got the one without a bathroom, we'd have windows out all 4 directions (which would be nice, including for natural breezes). I would hike down to it and work from in it when it's at our place, even camp out there much more easily. I don't like generator noise, but it looks like something like a Jackery (plug-in battery or solar generator) should easily provide enough power to run the AC for awhile if I need it, or a 1500W heater in winter or something. It also looks like, if we don't make much use of the water system, that the maintenance would be pretty minimal -- just battery care. (And without a bathroom, it may not be worth the annual winterization hassle to occasionally have tap water.)


I actually like the somewhat cramped, rustic appeal of the Scamp. It would be a step up from tent camping and yet could still feel pretty "different" from home. Having a cooktop would save having to bring a camp stove, but we're already used to not having our own bathroom so that would be fine. I sort of don't want it to feel too much like home, if that makes sense.

So, questions:


Would a Scamp be OK being left outside in the sun year-round?


What is maintenance and upkeep like? My wife remembers her family having a 5th wheel when she was a kid, and remembers that it was a lot of work whenever they went somewhere, but doesn't really remember why. I figure I could leave some pillows & sheets and such in the Scamp (or motorhome) and, barring water systems, it ought to be reasonably just "ready to go" at any point. Like if camping out on our own property, I'd need to bring a cooler with some food, a water jug, and maybe a change of clothes and that'd be it.

Is my plan even sensible at all?

Should I consider something other than a Scamp?

Thanks!

[Jon in AZ]

Fiberglass deteriorates when exposed to UV radiation. The process is slow but steady. Given enough time (decades) you’ll get pinholes in the fiberglass. In the short term, the fiberglass will develop a chalky appearance with a surface layer of oxidized fiberglass.

Prevention involves either regular waxing with a marine-grade, UV-resistant wax (frequency depends on your climate) or some kind of cover. If codes allow, a 10x20 carport structure will provide protection as well as some extra covered outdoor space. We stored ours outdoors on a concrete pad for about 8 years and waxed spring and fall. We now keep it in a garage.

To reduce critters- especially mice- keep grass cut short around the trailer. Even better, make a weed-free gravel pad to park on. Not only will it discourage critters, but you’ll get less rust on the frame than parking on grass. No food or paper in the trailer when parked. Make sure the electric cord port is tightly closed. On older units check for small gaps around the doors.

I’d recommend the optional factory furnace for cold weather use. All it needs is propane and a battery, which you can keep charged by bringing it to the house when not in use or a small solar panel.

I have used ours as an office retreat when not camping. I love the open roominess of our 13’ layout 1. Maintenance is minimal. We use the stove and furnace occasionally, but mostly cook outside when camping to keep food smells out of our bedroom. We use water from portable jugs, so there’s no winterization.

We love our little Scamp, and it sounds like your planned use is very similar to ours, except we don’t have or use A/C.

[justa25thTA]

Running ac is basically not doable on battery power, not without a lot of battery storage and a large inverter. If you have a gas furnace and a gas stove, you could get a small dual fuel generator to run AC.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by justa25thTA

Running ac is basically not doable on battery power, not without a lot of battery storage and a large inverter. If you have a gas furnace and a gas stove, you could get a small dual fuel generator to run AC.

From what I’ve read, you’ll need at least 2200-2500W to run a roof A/C (with soft start). A small window unit might go with 2000W.

[John in Kansas]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

Prevention involves either regular waxing with a marine-grade, UV-resistant wax (frequency depends on your climate) or some kind of cover. If codes allow, a 10x20 carport structure will provide protection as well as some extra covered outdoor space. We stored ours outdoors on a concrete pad for about 8 years and waxed spring and fall. We now keep it in a garage.

Thank you, your whole message is very helpful! A 10x20 structure should be easily doable and this makes perfect sense. It might take a bit if early-morning or late-evening sun, but that's way less intense than midday sun.

To reduce critters- especially mice- keep grass cut short around the trailer. Even better, make a weed-free gravel pad to park on. Not only will it discourage critters, but you’ll get less rust on the frame than parking on grass. No food or paper in the trailer when parked. Make sure the electric cord port is tightly closed. On older units check for small gaps around the doors.

I've heard some stories of problems with door fitting tight even on newer Scamps. I'm definitely concerned about rodents. They are sneaky little things... A gravel pad should be pretty easy.

I have used ours as an office retreat when not camping. I love the open roominess of our 13’ layout 1. Maintenance is minimal. We use the stove and furnace occasionally, but mostly cook outside when camping to keep food smells out of our bedroom. We use water from portable jugs, so there’s no winterization.


We love our little Scamp, and it sounds like your planned use is very similar to ours, except we don’t have or use A/C.

Yes indeed, this is great! Very similar ideas indeed. I'm glad to hear it is working out well for you! Another concern here is wind -- we do get 70MPH winds from time to time. I wonder how well the Scamp stands up to wind?

[John in Kansas]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

From what I’ve read, you’ll need at least 2200-2500W to run a roof A/C (with soft start). A small window unit might go with 2000W.

I've been looking at the https://www.jackery.com/products/sol...ator-2000-plus line. 2kWh and up, 3000W constant output, 6000W peak. That output is higher than the generators I've read of people using with Scamps. Of course, the runtime would be lower. But I figure, for occasional use on my own property, it is a quieter and lower-maintenance solution than a generator. And when camping somewhere else, we can either look for hookups or do without AC for much of the day (letting the solar panels recharge the battery).

I've noticed that Casita sells a solar solution for their fiberglass RVs with a 300AH battery, 2000W inverter, and 200W solar panels. That could be interesting also; I haven't explored their options as much as the Scamps yet. It would be one less thing to lug around.

What is the electrical story like inside the Scamp? Doe sit provide 120V AC outlets, 12V cig lighter ports (for USB chargers), etc.?

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by John in Kansas

Another concern here is wind -- we do get 70MPH winds from time to time. I wonder how well the Scamp stands up to wind?

I would not expect a problem. The low profile, rounded shape, and low center of mass make Scamps naturally stable. We've had over 50 mph winds while parked (chocked and stabilized) without a hint of unwanted movement.

There are some things you can do to make your parked trailer more stable beyond the basic chocks and rear stabilizers. One, plant or build a windbreak next to your parking spot. Two, raise the trailer and set it on a pair (or two) of jackstands on the frame (I use one pair just behind the axle). That's good for the axle, too. Three, use heavy rubber (rather than plastic) chocks. Four, cement a tie-down ring in the ground and cable it to the frame (also helps with security).

Tornados... that will be an insurance claim.

BTW, we also camped with four people for around ten years. The standard rear "double" bed in ours is only 44" wide (new ones since 2014 have an option for a wider 54" main bed, but it steals from the galley and closet). My wife felt crowded with both of us. After some trial and error, we settled on a workable arrangement. She shared the double bed with our younger daughter, sleeping head-to-toe for more room. I split the front bunks with the older. I use past tense, because as of this fall we are officially empty nesters! Time flies...

[Meadowlark]

As is usually the case with John in AZ, he gives you a great deal of GOOD information.

He's right about mousies...especially in the fall, they're looking for warm places to nest and raise lots of babies. Don't store anything that might give them the idea that you're providing shelter.

No food or paper. Not even TP. The less the scent of either, the more likely they'll ignore it. And again, park it on something non vegetative.

I wouldn't even cook in it, honestly. We don't cook in our casita. Oh, my husband will heat up his coffee, but that's IT.

Also, be aware that wasps like to find crevices in which to overwinter. Underneath the camper is a favorite spot. I don't know if your scamp has an AC unit, but they like that, too. When the wasp queens are out building nests, I'll take a mirror and routinely run it underneath the camper for their nests. (yellowjackets...they not only nest in the ground, they also will build paper nests. Bald faced hornets make big football shaped ones. Mud daubers will find those drain pipes and fill them up.)





I would get covers for the tires. UV light can eat them up, amazingly fast if the camper isn't moving often.


We park our casita under a covered carport, on gravel. And so far, knocking wood, during the winter, we've not had ummm, 'uninvited guests'.
We built the carport ourselves, and it's got 30A so we can keep it heated and de humidified in the winter. I live in Washington State and we don't call it the Carwash State for nothing.



Having only driven through Kansas, I can't speak to your winter conditions, but an unheated, un de-humidified camper in our wet wet winters is a guarantee you'll have mildew. Once that's in the rat fur (the carpeting, I don't know if Scamp has carpeted walls) it's in there to stay,and personally, I hate the smell of a musty camper.

If you don't have power to the camper, Dri-Z-Air containers work fairly well at drawing out water, but it's messy, environmentally a bit nasty and you have to have several containers to really do the job. And empty them often.



Jon mentioned creating a cement tie down for security. We did something very similar. We put 'risers' on our septic tank. This is a plastic? thick heavy duty plastic/PVC collar that one puts around the pump out ports. Now I don't have to dig out the septic tank every three or four years for a pump out. They have lids so one is left with the heavy cement covers for the ports.

THey're HEAVY. Which is a good thing, because nothing smells worse than an exposed septic tank. But they also have iron handles. SO we had four covers, two large and two small cement lids.



We repurposed them to provide some security for our Casita.



We buried the lids in the gravel underneath the Casita's tongue and lock the chains to it. Keep the locks lubed and covered from snow/rain etc.


But as has been mentioned elsewhere on this website, a determined thief will find a way 'round that. There's plenty of other security solutions.



The propane furnace in our casita works very nicely if ou don't have electricity, by the way.

Good luck. Sometimes we do what you do..if we can't go camping, due to time or lack of reservations or there's a few feet of snow on the ground, still, sometimes it's fun to go out to the camper with a thermos of coffee, fire up the propane furnace and pretend we're out in the wilderness.



GOod luck!

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by John in Kansas

What is the electrical story like inside the Scamp? Does iit provide 120V AC outlets, 12V cig lighter ports (for USB chargers), etc.?

Until recently, very basic. My 2008 has a single 120V outlet and no 12V outlets. Additional 120V outlets were an option, and recently they added some 12V outlets and charging ports. Overall quality of the 12V wiring is mediocre with lots of messy connections and splices. Good news is most of it is pretty accessible for additions and improvements.

Agree on protecting tires in storage. They make screens for some of the exterior vents to keep wasps out.

[vintageracer]

This line of products works great at UV protection.

Developed by NASA.

I use their products on our boat vinyl interior. Works great with UV protection.

This particular product in their product line works on the exterior fiberglass.

Take a look.

You might like it!

https://www.amazon.com/303-Vinyl-Pla...s%2C165&sr=8-4

[TeresaT]

I lived in western Kansas for a couple of years and everything everyone has mentioned is great. I didn’t see anyone mention the snow. Heavy snow on a scamp roof can be disastrous. The roof isn’t built for that much weight. I’ve see various things added during the winter to prevent snow accumulation. Kansas can be fairly dry snow but a couple of feet of snow could collapse the roof.

And I do understand the 70mph winds . I would find a way to tie it down somehow with cement anchors in the ground with straps over the top. If it’s out and unprotected.

[jerrybob]

Another option......why not just buy a shed from Home Depot or similar company and place it down by the creek. Set it up the way you want it and have it year round. They arre fairly inexpensive. This would not solve you camping issue but....you could pick up a good used tent trailer for that purpose. The Scamp idea isn't bad. Our Casita sits outside year round in very wet conditions......I use a product called BTS on it twice a year.....it looks new after 11 yrs. Any trailer requires maintanence.....tires...battery.....winterizing... .bearings....cleaning...etc.....just depends what you want to do. Good luck.

[computerspook]

Have thought of trying to get a car port or something for mime, but it has been stored outside for years. I got it used, but my understanding is that it was stored outside by the previous owner who likely was the original owner. So it has been outside most of its life. So far not a lot of problems. Good waxing is as has been mentioned your friend.


I have a farm that was in our family a state away and use it for lodging there. Now I have power there for it and can't see that being not necessary. I also built a dump station at the farm when we were doing some construction. Would recommend considering that. Of it you as you said don't have a bathroom, make sure you have a good other way to take care of this. I seldom camp at campgrounds so the bathroom is kind of well needed for me.



I use it operationally for volunteer work year around. Now mine is old enough it did not have the option of a roof air conditioner. It had one of the ones in the closet that did wear out. I had to find one that fit and then had to make a normal one into a Scamp one. Mostly that consisted of putting in wood ducting and then a drain system. And that has worked for a number of years now.


Any chance of using it in the winter and you really want a furnace. And if it is very cold out you will need a tank heater to keep the propane tanks warm enough to keep boiling off the propane to run the furnace.


Yeah the sleeping arrangements are very cramped. But I have in a pinch made them work.

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by TeresaT

I lived in western Kansas for a couple of years and everything everyone has mentioned is great. I didn’t see anyone mention the snow. Heavy snow on a scamp roof can be disastrous. The roof isn’t built for that much weight. I’ve see various things added during the winter to prevent snow accumulation. Kansas can be fairly dry snow but a couple of feet of snow could collapse the roof.

And I do understand the 70mph winds . I would find a way to tie it down somehow with cement anchors in the ground with straps over the top. If it’s out and unprotected.

Straps over the top are going to cause fiberglass damage from the rubbing. I'd just attach to the frame. Greatest danger during strong winds is damage from falling branches, so consider that when choosing your parking spot.

A carport structure would deal with the snow load, though of course the carport itself has to be rated for the maximum snow loads in your region, or it could collapse onto your trailer.

We managed snow loads when stored uncovered by brushing some off as it accumulated. On a 13' Scamp that's not a big deal. I used an extendable vinyl squeegee designed for washing windshields on large RVs. If you really felt it necessary, you could add a temporary brace in the center: a 2x4 or 2x6 wedged tightly between squares of plywood would do the job.

In a Scamp the factory interior cabinetry helps support the shell, especially the door closet and metal galley supports. In almost every case, catastrophic snow load roof failures are caused by removal of essential interior support.

[John McDonald]

Originally Posted by jerrybob

Another option......why not just buy a shed from Home Depot or similar company and place it down by the creek. Set it up the way you want it and have it year round. They arre fairly inexpensive. This would not solve you camping issue but....you could pick up a good used tent trailer for that purpose. The Scamp idea isn't bad. Our Casita sits outside year round in very wet conditions......I use a product called BTS on it twice a year.....it looks new after 11 yrs. Any trailer requires maintanence.....tires...battery.....winterizing... .bearings....cleaning...etc.....just depends what you want to do. Good luck.

Inexpensive shed and popup was a good suggestion. May not satisfy, but then again.

[computerspook]

Originally Posted by jerrybob

Another option......why not just buy a shed from Home Depot or similar company and place it down by the creek. Set it up the way you want it and have it year round. They arre fairly inexpensive. This would not solve you camping issue but....you could pick up a good used tent trailer for that purpose. The Scamp idea isn't bad. Our Casita sits outside year round in very wet conditions......I use a product called BTS on it twice a year.....it looks new after 11 yrs. Any trailer requires maintanence.....tires...battery.....winterizing... .bearings....cleaning...etc.....just depends what you want to do. Good luck.

Thinking that the shed would take a lot of outfitting to do what you are talking about.


Do have some friends who have found old RVs which were not road worthy and just parked them on a property. You can generally find really good deals on these. Might work better for the farm. Actually my friends use them for hunting cabins. But the principle is still there.


But that would still leave the travel camping and that a pop up might be good for.

[Steven Tonnesen]

Originally Posted by Jon in AZ

From what I’ve read, you’ll need at least 2200-2500W to run a roof A/C (with soft start). A small window unit might go with 2000W.

I had a 16' Scamp that had been fitted under the closet with a modified small window unit, 5,000 BTU if I recall. After one of the Florida Hurricanes, my Honda EU2000i 13Amp gas generator was able to run both that AC and our home's refrigerator with no trouble for several days in the heat back in, 2004, if I recall correctly. Good generators today are quite powerful and efficient, as are the air conditioners. Check the current draw requirements against the continuous output requirements and you will be fine.

[computerspook]

Originally Posted by Steven Tonnesen

I had a 16' Scamp that had been fitted under the closet with a modified small window unit, 5,000 BTU if I recall. After one of the Florida Hurricanes, my Honda EU2000i 13Amp gas generator was able to run both that AC and our home's refrigerator with no trouble for several days in the heat back in, 2004, if I recall correctly. Good generators today are quite powerful and efficient, as are the air conditioners. Check the current draw requirements against the continuous output requirements and you will be fine.

That is the configuration I have. I did have to replace it, as I have mentioned here, but either way it would run off of both of my generators. One like yours is a 2000 and the other a 4000 (being rebuilt currently). And like you I have to run my frig and camper in the summer off of the generator. (The small one). When I had to replace the air conditioner I ended up with one that was smaller so had to do some work to make the air flow work. But it was slightly higher BTUs but lower power requirement.

[John McMillin]

Originally Posted by TeresaT

I lived in western Kansas for a couple of years and everything everyone has mentioned is great. I didn’t see anyone mention the snow. Heavy snow on a scamp roof can be disastrous. The roof isn’t built for that much weight. I’ve see various things added during the winter to prevent snow accumulation. Kansas can be fairly dry snow but a couple of feet of snow could collapse the roof.

And I do understand the 70mph winds . I would find a way to tie it down somehow with cement anchors in the ground with straps over the top. If it’s out and unprotected.

Living about 300 miles west of western KS, I've parked a Scamp outdoors for over 15 years with no worries about snow load. That includes several storms measured three feet or more. Perusing the archives of this forum, I never saw an account of an "egg" trailer cracked by only snow. It takes something like a falling tree to do real structural damage. Am I wrong here?

As for the wind- it's best to raise most of the trailer's weight off the tires and axle for seasonal storage. This extends the life of both components. I use the rear stabilizer jacks and the tongue jack. Once you've done that, you have a 1500-3500 lb rigid structure standing on three steel stands. A hurricane might blow it over, but it's not going to wiggle in normal winds and storms.

[John McMillin]

Back to the OP's original proposal, I see one fundamental problem to using a Scamp or equivalent as a personal retreat and hangout space. Where will you sit? Typical side dinette seats and cushions make you sit bolt upright, in a tight space. I'm only aware of one design of Casita that features more comfy swivel chairs, but that robs space for a dinette table. Rear seating around the table is also square and unaccommodating (actually, the foam cushions from my 2021 Scamp are so rock-hard and boxy that I store them in the shed for resale day).
That leaves sitting the bed on a pile of pillows, something that often becomes sleep-inducing.

When I camp with a Scamp, I prefer to use it primarily as a sleeping shelter and cargo carrier. The cook table goes up beside the door, under the awning. My folding camp chair and recliner are more comfortable than any seat inside.

You really ought to keep a cover on an outdoor trailer. It's not an easy task to install a rooftop cover. When it's in place, your ventilation and light is drastically reduced. Forget about using a heater then.

With your sweet prairie land, I'd probably prefer a large tent set up on whatever flat land stands in earshot of the creek. Whether modern polyester parabola or time-tested canvas wall tent, tents offer advantages over fiberglass trailers. It's easy to make them open and airy, using them only as an insect shelter, then batten down the hatches when the weather turns. Tents can be wider, because they don't have to fit in traffic lanes. And much cheaper than a trailer.

None of this is to say that you don't need a fiberglass trailer, of course! That's just a different tool, for its own best function.