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Old 11-22-2019, 03:21 PM   #81
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Name: Phil
Posts: 12
sorry took so long - catching up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Justus C View Post
I found sleeping lengthwise in the bed to be uncomfortable. At only 5'8", my feet were pressed right up against the trailer so we ended up sleeping width-wise. While I like the idea of a little seat back there, I think I like the luxury of spreading out more.

For the 110v outlets, did you splice off of the dinette outlet or add new wiring from the fuse box? I've noted that the microwave outlet only has power when connected to shore power and have been trying to think of a way to take advantage of that. It wouldn't be difficult to wire it for two receptacles instead of one, and then reserve it for high loads, like a space heater, to avoid draining the battery in case of a power loss. Any loss of power would just shut it off instead of drawing off the inverter.

We do not experience the top flapping issue that you describe. I wonder if your hold down clips inside need adjusting? Maybe it has something to do with the way air coming off of your TV interacts with it?

The gaps in the weatherstripping up top do appear to be drains. If not exactly level, however, water will pool in the sloped ends. I wiped down the back of our roof this weekend as it had accumulated a dusty brown film after the pooled water dried out.

One issue you may run into is that the screws holding the refrigerator brackets in place will egg out holes in the plywood and possible fall out. I believe I have fixed this by drilling clean holes through the plywood and replacing the screws with #10 machine bolts, washers, and nylon lock nuts. I flipped the brackets around and positioned them to allow full opening of the refrigerator door. The long piece of trim above the fridge can be pried off for access to the top side of that plywood brace. I only have a few hours of travel with the new setup but so far there is no sign of the bolts coming loose.

Another minor issue is the ducting. I found one connector (of 3) coming out of the truma heater that was disconnected. I've also found that the ductwork was roughly installed, resulting in pinches and partially crushed sections. A "some day" project will be to replace with flexible instead of semi-rigid ducting.

On the Facebook page, one of our members found that Truma will provide an extra year of warranty coverage on the furnace/water heater just for registering on their website: Truma North America | Truma. She used her bill of sale as proof of original purchase.
the twin suits us and our purpose. we tested how we fit and since i am tallest, i am ok with it. space for a recliner was mandatory if i want to continue travel camping and the twin was best option.

I added one outlet by splicing into the microwave circuit. I made the batroom and rear outlet by splicing into the 2nd outlet circuit. the intent was not to add additional capacity just additional convenient access points.

regarding the top flapping - prior to anything else i installed small turnbuckles inside next to each of the original hold downs. they lock the top down hard. all the flapping is by the lift over the top and the lightness of the glass. a later post covers my thoughts and choice.

regards,

phil
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Old 11-22-2019, 03:30 PM   #82
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Name: Phil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justus C View Post
Phil, what thickness of plywood did you need to do the window repairs?

Did this involve removing the exterior window as well as the frame?

Is the tape you are referring to on the inside or outside of the shell?

i had 5/8 ply on hand - 1/2 would be fine. once installed, you check the length of screw with a coffee stirrer and use a screw accordingly. (you don't want to punch thru the fiberglass.

only had to remove the inside screen/blind frame assembly. then by removing or cutting their trim tape, able to access by simply opening space between inside wall and body. (i used a pool noodle to hold open the space and c-clamps for gluing the new corner attachment pieces to the inside surface of the fiberglass body.

the tape is to replace the trim tape and is all inside work. i wish i could say each was the same but each window had a slightly different need. the tape also works for repairing any access cuts into the fiberglass insulation needed to access the corners.

phil
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Old 11-22-2019, 06:02 PM   #83
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Name: Justus
Trailer: Hymer Touring GT
Illinois
Posts: 274
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pd001escape View Post
i had 5/8 ply on hand - 1/2 would be fine. once installed, you check the length of screw with a coffee stirrer and use a screw accordingly. (you don't want to punch thru the fiberglass.

only had to remove the inside screen/blind frame assembly. then by removing or cutting their trim tape, able to access by simply opening space between inside wall and body. (i used a pool noodle to hold open the space and c-clamps for gluing the new corner attachment pieces to the inside surface of the fiberglass body.

the tape is to replace the trim tape and is all inside work. i wish i could say each was the same but each window had a slightly different need. the tape also works for repairing any access cuts into the fiberglass insulation needed to access the corners.

phil
Thanks for the clarification.

I had to pull one of my windows off to reseal the hinge that runs along the top. I believe Hymer used VHB to stick the hinges up, as well as screws through the fiberglass and into a wood block. When I replaced it, I used butyl tape and a dab of wood glue on the screws. Now I'm a tad concerned the screws may not be enough to hold the window tight up against the shell over the long haul. I guess I'll tackle that if it becomes an issue.
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Old 11-23-2019, 08:10 PM   #84
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Name: Phil
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justus C View Post
I found a handful of issues with our new trailer, most of which will be shortly corrected. All drains seem to be intact, which seems to have been a common complaint. Sicard told me the PEX lines were pressure tested for leaks but I have no way to verify that and we haven't hooked up to city water yet. Fingers crossed!

First issue is that there is no cutout switch for the fridge, which is a 12v/120v compressor fridge. If the battery is on, the fridge is on. Conveniently, the switch panel on the side of the counter that controls lighting only has 3 out of 4 spots used. I think I've identified the switches used, Legrand Adorne 1/2-gang paddle switch: https://www.amazon.com/Adorne-Single...SWAFKXJYDFPG4F

Second issue is the brackets holding the fridge in place. The 1/2" screws attaching the brackets to the cabinetry had both come loose, and the only thing holding them in place was the lack of clearance between the cabinet and the fridge itself. The cabinetry they are secured to is 1/2" veneered plywood, and the screw holes are nearly egged out. I'll replace these with bolts, washers, and nylon lock nuts. I attached a photo of the brackets. The one on the left may prove problematic as it is right under the clasp mechanism for the false front for the counter.

The third issue, and the one I am still trying to wrap my head around, is the air conditioner. This has been a common issue, but it appears that not only has mine been installed without a filter--the intake is partially blocked! When I open up the vent, I can look in and see about an inch of the intake exposed. The rest is covered up by what I guess you could call a firring strip that is attached to the floor, and to which the base of the cabinets are screwed into. (Second attachment, please excuse the crude drawing.) The only way I can think of right now to remedy this is to drop the A/C unit and use a jigsaw to shave off some of the firring strip, but I am in no way interested in or capable of dropping the A/C. Accessing from the top would mean completely dismantling the countertop area and I would never hear the end of that!

Edit to add: After looking at another owner's picture of the same area, it looks like the A/C was just installed about 3 inches too far forward. I will have to look into getting the whole mess repositioned down the line.

Those issues aside, we are happy with our new trailer and it will serve us well for the short trips we are able to take now. I am not seeing some of the other quality issues some owners have mentioned, though they may show themselves with time.
Hi there - this post helped me identify a couple things.
a. the manual talks about two air filters - one should be on this return air duct and the other should be on the outside coil air intake side.

1st addressing your blockage - i also have a partial, but it will not really impede the air flow much so i will ignore. however, i will get a cut to fit filter and fit that into this area - so filter one solved

2nd - for the outside filter - couldn't really be in a worse spot. looks like i'll fit a debris sleeve for over the road and replace that with a filter when parked and using ac. first i'll contact mfg to see what they suggest. i am still concerned with the fan on the outside - since it blows down - i suspect it will kick up some dust/dirt at the campsites unless on a concrete pad. so i'll probably drop a poly doormat directly below to minimize that.

phil

ps - by the way - thanks for all the postings here - i do not use facebook.
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Old 11-23-2019, 08:18 PM   #85
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Name: Phil
Posts: 12
Hello John,
can you give me the mfg or model of the inverter charger. you indicated the manual over on facebook, but i do not work with that - the manual i can likely get from mfg.
i'm thinking the mfg plate is on the bottom of the inverter or in front - i tried getting a phone in for pics but came up empty. otherwise i'll have to disassemble some cabiner work to get to it.
thx
phil
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Old 11-23-2019, 08:39 PM   #86
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Name: Phil
Posts: 12
okay - found the label and got a phone pic of it

intertek/KS2 Corp model KS3K110.01
3000w
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Old 11-24-2019, 05:12 PM   #87
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Name: Justus
Trailer: Hymer Touring GT
Illinois
Posts: 274
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pd001escape View Post
Hello John,
can you give me the mfg or model of the inverter charger. you indicated the manual over on facebook, but i do not work with that - the manual i can likely get from mfg.
i'm thinking the mfg plate is on the bottom of the inverter or in front - i tried getting a phone in for pics but came up empty. otherwise i'll have to disassemble some cabiner work to get to it.
thx
phil
Phil, I've attempted to upload the inverter/charger manual (and a few others) to the Document Center on this site. They are currently "awaiting moderator review."

For future reference, KS2's warranty did not transfer to us, the end-users. This is a snippet from an e-mail exchange with them:
Quote:
Originally Posted by KS2
I know customers have been left in the dark, and that the warranty Hymer supported for every vehicle is now gone, and with that the warranty for our parts is gone too. Since this shut down, we have been working directly with RV service centres and offering tech support etc. to customers / vehicle owners like yourself.
The A/C has been a source of frustration for us in the FB group, as well as in the Hymer Aktiv group where the same model is used on the Aktiv Loft. Reports from our West coast members indicate that it simply can't keep up with summer temps in the 90s and above. I'm sure that is partly thanks to the clumsy installation.

I don't think you'll get much help from that manufacturer. These were built-to-order for Hymer. Without a customer, their support for the T-384 is non-existent and they seemed none too interested to help me. I got a verbal confirmation that warranty support was extended to the end-user, but I haven't been able to have it serviced yet so I can't confirm. MCC's warranty claim process is only available to commercial customers. I was told by the service center that they would push the warranty claim for their end. We'll see. Their warranty guy picks up the phone about half the time, and then he only gives non-committal half answers or promises to "look into it and call you back." You can guess how that's gone.
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Old 11-24-2019, 07:34 PM   #88
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Name: Phil
Posts: 12
inverter and a/c followup

Thx Mr. C.
Probably saves me from some aggravation as i was going to make certain contacts tomorrow. I probably will still do so to some degree, but it help to know what may happen.

It is unfortunate some companies do not follow the golden rule. that's on them.
I feel for the aktiv group because they probably have limited ability for a work-around since systems are in a vehicle.

for the inverter - i just finished doing some testing and while have not fully appreciated the wiring layout, i do have things working in good order there.

worst case if the inverter goes - eliminate or replace with a different more accessible brand. the bigger issue seems to be how completely integrated it is into the power system. from what i can tell that is for smooth power for all the 12v parts of the system. (not sure on this point)

for the a/c - whenever it goes, if it cannot be serviced locally or if its a parts problem i'll look at a mini-split in the front or a regular wall/window unit configured thru the back hatch. But treated with a little care, hopefully it'll give 10 years.

for now - i was able to fit a filter from a universal filter (cut to 5" x 18") and will get 4 filters from one original. I put the filter directly over the return duct not at the grill. (also put foam backer rod to seal the duct from surrounding areas to maintain only filtered air) For the outside - i might treat that as house type and just clean regularly, but i think i'll still mount a shield for traveling.

close examination of the inside return air for the a/c showed enough area for full flow. however the output side looks like the design restricts flow, and could be boosted with some rework/replacement of the ducting.
I know the 7500 btu unit could not keep up, but i'm hoping the 10k+ will be enough. I live in Florida.

I was hoping for a shakedown cruise next month, but it will be January. In the meantime i am going thru each system to test and check for any issues.
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Old 01-25-2020, 09:05 PM   #89
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Name: Joseph
Trailer: Hymer
Bakersfield
Posts: 17
Joe

Hi I'm just about to marry a new 2018 Buick Tourx and a 2019 Hymer GT Touring Travel Trailer installed a custom Curt Class II receiver Hitch 3,500lb and a T - connect trailer wire harness just about complete for a test run I couldn't find any info on this marriage but seems to be a great match up any ideas / Comments
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Old 01-25-2020, 10:06 PM   #90
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Name: Glenn ( second 'n' is silent )
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
British Columbia
Posts: 7,411
You need a Class 3 hitch receiver if you intend use or expect you might need a weight distribution hitch.
From etrailer.com


Class II
  • Typical loads: bikes, cargo carriers, kayaks, canoes, mobility scooters, small popup campers, small boats, and small trailers
  • Typical tow vehicles: midsize cars, full-size cars, SUVs, and minivans
  • Maximum gross trailer weight: up to 3,500 lbs
  • Maximum tongue weight: up to 525 lbs
  • Receiver opening: 1-1/4" x 1-1/4"
  • Accepts accessories like bike racks, cargo carriers, and drawbars that are made for Class I and Class II hitches
Class III
Typical loads: midsize campers, utility trailers, lawn maintenance equipment, bikes, cargo carriers, kayaks, canoes, motorcycles, and snowmobiles
  • Typical tow vehicles: full-size cars, SUVs, minivans, large SUVs, and trucks
  • Maximum gross trailer weight: up to 8,000 lbs
  • Maximum tongue weight: up to 800 lbs
  • Receiver opening: 2" x 2"
  • Accepts accessories like bike racks, cargo carriers, and ball mounts that are made for a 2" x 2" receiver
    • An adapter allows you to mount hitch accessories made for a 1-1/4" receiver
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Old 01-25-2020, 10:25 PM   #91
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Name: Joseph
Trailer: Hymer
Bakersfield
Posts: 17
Tourx

That was the info o found the hymer is 1500 lbs 150 tongue I didn't plan on using a weight distributer. What have me some nerve on this paiir was a tow back 1000 miles from dealer on a bumper hitch was without any effort the hitch I bought has a 3500 lb rating the hymer tongue is a single beam on paper is seems good the test will tell all
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Old 01-25-2020, 10:52 PM   #92
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Name: John
Trailer: Hymer
California
Posts: 191
Registry
There might be some Eriba models that weight 1500lbs, but the North American Hymer GT is 2700lbs empty.
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Old 01-25-2020, 11:09 PM   #93
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Name: Michael
Trailer: Former Scamp 13, Former Airstream 16
Connecticut
Posts: 72
Joee: I wish you all good luck with the TourX / Hymer GT combo.

Your hitch is not rated for weight distribution towing, and it's likely the chassis is not either. Many unibody cars/SUVs of European origin are not designed for weight distribution towing. Weight distributing hitches are generally not used in Europe.

As OCJohn suggests, I think you are underestimating the weight of your Hymer.
Second, Buick lists the tow capacity for your TourX at 1,000 lbs. The TourX is an Opel Insignia with Buick badges.

The tow capacity for the Opel Insignia in Europe is much higher than your Buick
https://gmauthority.com/blog/2017/08...o-4850-pounds/

So, the TourX may be capable of towing your Hymer but it may expose you to some personal risk/liability in the U.S. if you had a crash while towing.

Think this through carefully before proceeding.
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Old 01-25-2020, 11:46 PM   #94
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Name: Joseph
Trailer: Hymer
Bakersfield
Posts: 17
Thanks makes sense I was driven by the numbers I was able to bolt up the hitch to what looks like a frame but may not have the strength May use the hitch for other purposes wanted to sell the Hymer with the vehicle together I have no use for either one I'm going into a class B
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Old 01-26-2020, 12:03 AM   #95
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Trailer: 2009 Escape 17B 2020 Toyota Highlander XLE
British Columbia
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Probably you should sell them separately to relieve yourself of potential liability.
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Old 01-26-2020, 01:00 PM   #96
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Name: Joseph
Trailer: Hymer
Bakersfield
Posts: 17
Im keeping an eye out for another tow vehicle but nothing overkill is love to find an old AMC Eagle wagon with a straight 6 out here in the west
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Old 01-26-2020, 01:27 PM   #97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joee View Post
Im keeping an eye out for another tow vehicle but nothing overkill is love to find an old AMC Eagle wagon with a straight 6 out here in the west
I bet you’ll be the only kid on your block with one of those.
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Old 01-26-2020, 02:04 PM   #98
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Trailer: Hymer
Bakersfield
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Had one in the 80's and was a great bullet proof car once in a while one surfaces but ain't cheap
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Old 02-21-2020, 02:03 AM   #99
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Name: Mary
Trailer: Currently Shopping
Charlotte
Posts: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by Justus C View Post
I found sleeping lengthwise in the bed to be uncomfortable. At only 5'8", my feet were pressed right up against the trailer so we ended up sleeping width-wise. While I like the idea of a little seat back there, I think I like the luxury of spreading out more.

For the 110v outlets, did you splice off of the dinette outlet or add new wiring from the fuse box? I've noted that the microwave outlet only has power when connected to shore power and have been trying to think of a way to take advantage of that. It wouldn't be difficult to wire it for two receptacles instead of one, and then reserve it for high loads, like a space heater, to avoid draining the battery in case of a power loss. Any loss of power would just shut it off instead of drawing off the inverter.

We do not experience the top flapping issue that you describe. I wonder if your hold down clips inside need adjusting? Maybe it has something to do with the way air coming off of your TV interacts with it?

The gaps in the weatherstripping up top do appear to be drains. If not exactly level, however, water will pool in the sloped ends. I wiped down the back of our roof this weekend as it had accumulated a dusty brown film after the pooled water dried out.

One issue you may run into is that the screws holding the refrigerator brackets in place will egg out holes in the plywood and possible fall out. I believe I have fixed this by drilling clean holes through the plywood and replacing the screws with #10 machine bolts, washers, and nylon lock nuts. I flipped the brackets around and positioned them to allow full opening of the refrigerator door. The long piece of trim above the fridge can be pried off for access to the top side of that plywood brace. I only have a few hours of travel with the new setup but so far there is no sign of the bolts coming loose.

Another minor issue is the ducting. I found one connector (of 3) coming out of the truma heater that was disconnected. I've also found that the ductwork was roughly installed, resulting in pinches and partially crushed sections. A "some day" project will be to replace with flexible instead of semi-rigid ducting.

On the Facebook page, one of our members found that Truma will provide an extra year of warranty coverage on the furnace/water heater just for registering on their website: Truma North America | Truma. She used her bill of sale as proof of original purchase.
I'd recommend trying a sleeping recliner in case of little space. For me, it's the best solution. In the daytime, it takes even less space, so you can consider this option too. Here I attach a useful tip about sleeping recliners, maybe it'll help!
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Old 02-21-2020, 11:10 AM   #100
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Name: bob
Trailer: Was A-Liner now 13f Scamp
Missouri
Posts: 3,190
amc rig

wifey had a amc gremlin truly hated that car but oh man it held up to her and 4 kids.

built tough

bob

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joee View Post
Im keeping an eye out for another tow vehicle but nothing overkill is love to find an old AMC Eagle wagon with a straight 6 out here in the west
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