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Old 01-11-2017, 02:01 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by JWScarab View Post
... Tie them together with pex at floor level. When you add water to the main tank - they will all fill up at the same time! And they all drain at the same time as you use it! They will need to vent up top somehow, so this may requier a separate fill/vent cap on that side (uuggg - a hole.....ha). Just more wintertime food for thought.....
Since you would be connecting all the tanks together with a low pex water line, can't you likewise vent them all together with an interconnecting high pex air line? Seems like that should work.
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Old 01-11-2017, 02:05 PM   #62
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Since you would be connecting all the tanks together with a low pex water line, can't you likewise vent them all together with an interconnecting high pex air line? Seems like that should work.
Yes - I think that should work! I just need to figure out how to gt the line from one side of the RV to the other. The low line could tuck in the back wall/floor corner, but the vent line needs to stay high like you said. Maybe a way to get from one side to other without it looking too bad. It will be under the bed! Good idea! Thanks!
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Old 01-11-2017, 04:10 PM   #63
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The vent line doesn't need to stay high. The tap just needs to be high on the tank where the air is rather than low where the water is. Once the vent line comes out of the tank at a high location, the vent line itself can then be dropped down to the floor and run right beside the water line before needing to rising up again to go in near the top of the next tank. The air won't mind going up and down and up and down....
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Old 01-11-2017, 04:23 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
The vent line doesn't need to be/stay high. The air tap just needs to be high on the tank where the air is rather than low where the water is. Once the vent line comes out of the tank at a high location, the vent line itself can then be dropped down to the floor and run right beside the water line before needing to rising up again to go into the top of the next tank. The air won't mind going up and down and up and down....
...unless the water gets into the low part of the crossover leg, maybe by sloshing while towing.

Can the vent be tapped high up in each tank, then be routed upwards before dropping down to the floor level to cross over to the other tank? That might help it resist water getting into the low crossover leg.

Regardless, it sounds like you would benefit from adding a little tee and drain valve on a low point of the crossover leg. Then you could either drain it or perhaps even blow it out to dry it out, whichever works best. Perhaps you could even route the "drain" leg down through the floor...
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Old 01-11-2017, 06:09 PM   #65
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Mike makes a good point. Air should be able to push past any water that splashes in the vent line, but it could be a problem come time to winterize. How about installing one of these Attwood marine fuel tank vents on each accessory water tank (I believe they are two-way so they would vent when both filling the tank and emptying)? Available in black or white.
Fuel Tank Vent Straight : Attwood Marine
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Old 01-11-2017, 08:59 PM   #66
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These are good ideas! Maybe while I have the roof vent out I could run a pex vent line up the wall between the inner and outer shell and back down the other side.... ha. Sounds crazy but could work! Not sure of the spacing between inner and outer shell yet.

I need to stop tho! My mind ideas are way ahead of my progress...ha! I like the mods so much I want another camper to use while I spend a year upgrading this one lol. Patience I guess!
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:36 PM   #67
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I've run a standard TV coaxial cable from the upper cabinet in the rear curbside corner down between the inner and outer shell and out that bottom corner weep hole to connect to an outside over-the-air TV antenna. So I know you could slip a vent tube at least that diameter between the walls. And I think vent tubing with at least 1/8" inside diameter should do the job if you decide to proceed with your additional fresh water tank mod.
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Old 03-08-2017, 07:07 AM   #68
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MaxxFan Install

Well, spring is coming! So the couple we know with the 21 Escape has a pole barn and we got free winter storage this year only (ha) for helping them wire the barn. Well my storage is about over (April 1st was the deal) so I decided its time to get the MaxxFan installed while its under roof and out of the weather. This took me 3 full nights and I'm not done yet! But I'm enjoying it doing it!

First order of things was to get a way to work up there without putting my 250lbs on the roof. I built a small work platform hanging from the rafters. It worked pretty well and held my weight fine! Then I removing the interior trim ring, and cut the wires. Then up to the top.....

I'm not here to knock the EggCamper, but why anybody would put that tiny fan in there originally is beyond me. I bet if a MaxxFan was an $250 option would be ordered on every one! Anyway....
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Old 03-08-2017, 07:27 AM   #69
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Next order was to pull off the old vent all the screws!!!! But I took the screws out then started cutting with a knife. I also cut on the inside where more sealant was. After a LOT of cutting and a little prying I was able to get a corner to come up. From there I was able to cut/pry cut/pry till it finally came off!

Next order of business was to clean off all the old sealant. That took ALL DAY with a plastic scraper, goo gone, finger nails, more scraping. It was stuck on there like you couldn't believe! Maybe 6 hours later it was finally done. That was a horrible task. After that I countersunk the old holes a little bit to avoid future cracking. Then I filled the holes completly with butyl tape.

I also drilled new holes (the 4 corners old holes lined up so I was able to reuse those - but the others needed new. Also countersunk the new holes. I bought 3/4 butyl tape from Amazon and realized my flange was 1.25" wide. So I decided to buy 1.5" tape and have an entire flange seal with one strip. I applied the tape to the bottom of the new flange, put the 4 corner screws thru and started to tighten. Then put in the rest of the screws and tighten the heck out of all of them!
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Old 03-08-2017, 07:38 AM   #70
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While I was at it the old vent cap had to go! Those things get brittle. I bought a different kind that is supposed to be unbreakable, and not get brittle. Also, the old one was more sharp corners like a hockey puck and the new one is more dome shaped so I should get better mpg.....ha. So while I was doing this roof vent upgrade, it was time to replace this black water vent cap too. I have to admit, after taking the old one off and seeing the new one fit on the smooth surface - I decided I was NOT removing all the old sealant outside the base....ha!

So I cleaned up the seal area, put on more butyl, and reinstalled the new cap. After the butyl squished out the next day I removed the 3 screws out of the upper cap only, put sealant between the new base and the vent pipe, put sealant on the 3 spots where the 2 caps touch and reinstalled the screws.

More to come in a few days on the final sealant applied (flanges and screw heads) for both the MaxxFan, and pipe vent - along with fiberglass trimming to get the vent to close without hitting the EggCamper center rib.......
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Old 03-10-2017, 06:50 AM   #71
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So the finish sealing doesn't look all that neat - but it doesn't matter in my mind. First I laid a "small bead" around the entire MaxxFan and the pipe vent flanges. That was pushed in firmly with my finger and made the actual seal. It looked nice and smooth and with a good fillet. Then I went back over it with a much larger bead and that got very messy - just trying to add contact area between the vent and the fiberglass.

On the pipe vent I went on top of the old sealant I refused to clean off - but its sealed fine. This seal actually doesnt seal any water out anyway because the pipe itself is sealed against the roof from the factory and thats the area that keeps the water out (first pic in post 70). So all I really needed to seal was the screw holes - but I did this bead anyway.

Also at this stage I covered all the screw heads, and the areas where the rubber strip stops on the EggCamper seam - including that screw as well.

The sealant I used was called 3M Fast Cure 4000. Its a medium strength highly recommended for fiberglass and boaters swear by it even for underwater areas. I think either the butyl or the 4000 would have done the job by itself - but I'm guessing (hoping) that by using both there will be no leaks for the next 10 years!
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Old 03-10-2017, 07:09 AM   #72
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This last post of the outside I wish I had taken a few more pics but I got in a hurry and forgot and couldn't go back. Anyway, when you close the MaxxFan, it will hit the rib on the EggCamper. I took out the one and only screw that holds on the rib rubber strip and lifted that rubber strip off the rib a few feet back. Its only attached at the very end by the vent.

Then I took an angle grinder and ground down the rib in the area under the MaxxFan, then tapered it back to original height. I kept grinding down the seam till the MaxxFan closed fully with maybe a 1/4" air gap between it and the rib. The angle grinder made super fast work of the job (I started with a hand file and it was taking forever).

After that I reinstalled the rib vinyl strip and put the screw back in and sealed it up at the end with sealant.

You can see in the last pic how the rubber strip is now lower or closer to the roof. Its hard to see in the first pic, but there is a tiny gap between vent closed and the rubber strip.

That's all for the outside - I pulled the Egg from our friends place to ours so its now officially out of storage. Ya!!! I haven't finished the MaxxFan inside yet (wiring and trim ring) but will this weekend and add a final post.

I hope its OK to document all this step by step stuff here - I'm no means trying to come off as I know what I'm doing...ha! Just a do-it-your-selfer who wants to document stuff and hopefully help a few others along the way.
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Old 03-10-2017, 08:04 AM   #73
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The lid looks level to the base now, which is what you want, nice job! I see you went with the deluxe MaxxFan, with the smoke lens and remote, much better than then the fantastic fan.
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Old 03-10-2017, 02:25 PM   #74
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Hi Joe,
Just checking in....do you have any leads on an Egg Camper this Spring. You mentioned you'd keep an eye out for me. I appreciate your help.
Thanks, Big Daddy
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Old 03-10-2017, 02:47 PM   #75
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The lid looks level to the base now, which is what you want, nice job! I see you went with the deluxe MaxxFan, with the smoke lens and remote, much better than then the fantastic fan.
Thanks Jim! Yea I did some thinking about that. I like the features, in/out, thermostat to save battery, open when rain etc., smoked lid. the Deluxe model was a no brainer because this fan is one of the most important features if not running ac or heat!
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Old 03-10-2017, 02:49 PM   #76
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Hi Joe,
Just checking in....do you have any leads on an Egg Camper this Spring. You mentioned you'd keep an eye out for me. I appreciate your help.
Thanks, Big Daddy
I haven't seen any come up but I haven't been looking much. I'd just check craigslist and this forum on a regular basis. One will pop up soon I bet. Seems like a couple a year come up for sale.
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Old 03-10-2017, 03:27 PM   #77
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Hi Joe,
Just checking in....do you have any leads on an Egg Camper this Spring. You mentioned you'd keep an eye out for me. I appreciate your help.
Thanks, Big Daddy
Here's another place to check:

Molded Fiberglass Travel Trailers For Sale | Fiberglass RV's For Sale

You might also try SearchTempest: Search all of Craigslist nationwide & more.
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Old 03-10-2017, 04:07 PM   #78
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Egg Camper Search

Thanks Joe,

I'll keep looking. Let me know if you head of anything.

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Old 03-10-2017, 04:09 PM   #79
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Thanks Mike,


Let me know if you hear of any leads.


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Old 03-11-2017, 10:01 PM   #80
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Finished up the MaxxFan today. Basically just crimped on the connectors that came with the fan. I made sure to use 1 male and 1 female connector on the fan lead, and 1 male and 1 female connector on the camper wires. This will guarantee if anybody removes the fan in the future, they cannot get the wires connected wrong. Also added some shrink tubing then tucked the wires up in the fan.

Next, measured and cut the interior trim. Held it in place and marked the holes. Removed trim, drilled ceiling for new trim screw locations, and reinstalled trim for final time.

You can see in the last pic how the smoked cover is actually quite see thru. The sky was very clear and blue today, and the pine trees show thru too. This job is finished!

One interesting thing is the fan has a "ceiling fan" mode meaning you can run it with the lid closed and it will circulate the air in the Egg without drawing it out. This should help since the AC is on the floor - hopefully it will keep the temp even thru out.
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