Joe's EggCamper Journal - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-25-2017, 07:18 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
I'm not sure, but from previous threads, I think many if not most EggCamper frames were built with 3" channel iron. Like you, we feel luck to have the extra beefy 4" frame on our 2010 #083. We have done the polar opposite with our EggCamper compared to you. Other than a couple things that you'd have to look close to notice, ours is still all original, pretty much just like it was when it rolled off the production line, even though we are the third owners. Although we've upgraded the mattress and seat cushions for our personal comfort, we still have the originals in dry storage. We enjoy it in "classic" configuration. But to each their own....
That's interesting! I did not know most had the 3". Thanks for the info. Maybe 4" is not so much overkill then. He must have went from 3 to 4 for some reason it was necessary. Thanks!

Keeping yours original is great too! I can understand that approach too. Keeping things simple has tons of advantages too and that was one reason I was drawn to the EggCamper too.

Hopefully soon we will both be out USING them instead of me working on ours ha! Still a little cold here tho. Enjoy!
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Old 03-26-2017, 07:03 PM   #102
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Closet Shelves

Next was to tackle the closet shelves. I used 1/2" birch plywood for the shelves. Used cardboard to make patterns of the shelves, and trimmed the cardboard to fit. I transferred it to the plywood and cut the shelf.

With the spare tire out and this allowed for more room and a full bottom shelf. The front of the shelves are supported to the already existing 2x2's on the edges of the door opening using simple L brackets. The rear of the shelves are supported with 3/4" PVC. I drilled one hole in the end of the PVC caps and screwed them to the top and bottom of the shelves. Then once the shelf was in place, just fit in the 3/4 PVC pipe cut to length for proper spacing. The PVC supports the back so no need to hook to the fiberglass.
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Old 03-26-2017, 07:07 PM   #103
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Shelves (cont.)

Did the same to the closet behind the dinette, and under the sink. Under the sink was a bear to do with all the plumbing etc. Had to remove the fridge to install the front vertical wall. I had to add front and back vertical walls to keep things from sliding off into the fridge, or off into the back storage under the bench. Now the under sink area is boxed in, and has a shelf. Don't pay attention to the mis-measured cutout for the sing drain pipe right inside the door....ooops.
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Old 03-26-2017, 07:16 PM   #104
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Reversing Main Closet Door and Adding Mirrors

Once shelves were done I reinstalled the main closet door. It used to hinge on the left and that was very annoying because it was hard to get anything out of the closet while in the camper.

I reversed the door, added mirrors, and used larger longer screws on the hinges to help support the weight of the mirrors. Before and after pic.
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Old 03-26-2017, 10:39 PM   #105
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Next is to ditch the 4 year old 12v and throw in dual Trojan T-105 6v batteries. This will now have 225 amp hours which will be a huge improvement on dry camping! I dropped em in the box and hooked em up. That's it! The camper wire is 8 gauge so that is all that is needed for the jumper wire. When I went to solder the lugs to the jumper wire, I saw the lugs had enough room for a lot more wire. I wet ahead and just doubled them up. That was absolutely not necessary at all, but it was a more is better moment.
I like your dual battery box, where'd you get it? What is the lid like? I have (2) Trojans T-105s too but haven't gotten around to putting them on yet as I haven't seen anything but a single battery box in the big box stores...
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Old 03-27-2017, 04:43 AM   #106
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Hi Johnny M,

That battery box came from Amazon. It's NOCO 426 box.

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-HM426-Co.../dp/B003VAUG5A

I think it's made for inside a compartment such as a boat or internal rv but it should do fine. It's very sturdy. It has vents at the tops of the walls where a little water could get in only if you were driving in a good rain. I'll probably tape the 2 front vents maybe if it's an issue. The top is held on with 2 knobs. The knobs have studs molded into them that thread into inserts molded into the box. If I lose a knob on the road I may locktite 2 bare studs into the box sticking up, then use a washer and 2 nuts each.
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Old 03-27-2017, 05:46 AM   #107
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Speaking of reversing the doors, I also reversed the overheads and let gravity keep them open, saves using both hands to operate.
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Old 03-27-2017, 06:06 AM   #108
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Speaking of reversing the doors, I also reversed the overheads and let gravity keep them open, saves using both hands to operate.
Jim that's a great idea!! My wife keeps complaining about those because she is 5'1" and she cant access them too easily while holding them up! I'm going to have to look at yours to see how you did it, and what you did to keep them closed! Maybe a near future mod.....ha! THANK YOU
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Old 03-27-2017, 06:48 AM   #109
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Here are a couple of pictures, there are wooden block behind to hold the screws, they were relocated also.
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Old 03-27-2017, 06:50 AM   #110
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I also found where I reversed my closet door as well and the floor I put down....
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Old 03-27-2017, 07:17 AM   #111
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Here are a couple of pictures, there are wooden block behind to hold the screws, they were relocated also.
Thanks Jim! I was just looking at a lot of your mods again! How do these doors stay closed when traveling?? I dont see any kind of catch at the top. Just magnetic maybe?

I like the shelves you have built too! They leave room for a few tall items (broom, unbrellas) which we dont have. My wife and I discussed that - I may be cutting a slot out of the front of a shelf for storing those items....

The floor looks nice! We still use the original sit in place carpet - may steal what you did there too!

Thanks again!!
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Old 03-27-2017, 08:28 AM   #112
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I am trying to remember the set up, but I believe the hinges are springed and the doors stay shut with the hinge pressure. Besides, there is a lip that keeps things from hitting at the bottom and anything that hits from the middle on up have the fulcrum hold back.
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Old 03-27-2017, 08:33 AM   #113
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Good info! I wasn't sure if the spring hinges would hold them while traveling but that's good to know! I may have to do this soon! Thanks again!
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Old 03-29-2017, 07:24 PM   #114
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Tires

Well these will go on this weekend..... fingers crossed!
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Old 04-01-2017, 07:27 PM   #115
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Wheels and Tires

Got the tires mounted to the wheels yesterday and put them on the EggCamper today. The wheels are 15x6 and are Americana Loadstar 22653. The tires are Maxxis M8008 225/75R15 is a 8 ply "D" load rating.

I think these would be about the largest tired I'd attempt to put on. But they do fit nicely without risk of rubbing anything. They do clear the front and back trim by an inch or so, but there is no movement fore and aft so no big deal. The upward travel is ok too with plenty of room to spare.

Just my opinion but I like the load capacity being a tad overkill, and the larger diameter. Now the bearings aren't spinning so hard, and the tires are rated for much more weight so heat buildup should not occur.

The entire EggCamper now sits 4-5" higher and that should do much better for boondocking. I did a 3" axle lift kit late last year in preparation for the larger wheels. Drain pipes have much better clearance also. The spare is coming off the front and going above the rear bumper if I can ever get into the weld shop, so that low clearance will be gone hopefully soon.
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Old 04-02-2017, 06:27 AM   #116
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Sharp looking....
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Old 04-02-2017, 07:17 AM   #117
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Thanks Jim! Appreciate it.

My wife is working on valances and shower curtain so I'll get some interior pics up soon. I may slow down on mods now that camping season is here and hopefully post some pics of fun summer long weekends. I still have more improvements on the to do list. But the main ones I really wanted finished are good to go now!

I want to add a battery monitor, removable cord, additional fresh water tank and small tounge storage box at minimum. Still sleeping on the biggies like propane or solar or generator. We'll see how the summer goes without those for now. I don't want to get to the point to where we spent so much we could have bought that 5.0ta ha!
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Old 04-02-2017, 08:28 AM   #118
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Yes, when I contacted Hehr about replacing NestEgg windows with thermal window replacement, they said I was wasting my money due to the lack of insulation elsewhere. That is when I decided to go to Escape. BTW, I also replaced the Eggcamper's fixed door window with a opening slider window, it really helped with circulation after installing the better roof fan.
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Old 04-04-2017, 12:07 PM   #119
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Handeling

Got to take the Egg for a spin again to test out the handling now that it is lifted, and has larger wheels/tires. Luckily, I can report no ill effects at all to the increased height. I did high speed (a quick 84mph the back down), a quick lane change, and a hard stop test. It was still very steady as before. Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to lift an FGRV if desired as long as you keep your tongue weight in order and have a proper tv hitch height.

Now I need to build a taller entry step box...ha
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Old 04-04-2017, 12:16 PM   #120
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Got to take the Egg for a spin again to test out the handling now that it is lifted, and has larger wheels/tires. Luckily, I can report no ill effects at all to the increased height. I did high speed (a quick 84mph the back down), a quick lane change, and a hard stop test. It was still very steady as before. Personally, I wouldn't hesitate to lift an FGRV if desired as long as you keep your tongue weight in order and have a proper tv hitch height.

Now I need to build a taller entry step box...ha
84 mph?

I wondered who that was when you turned around in front of my place here.
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