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03-01-2021, 07:52 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Don
Trailer: Shopping
Alabama
Posts: 135
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Micro Air conditioner
Anybody have any experience with one of these?
https://www.rigidhvac.com/micro-dc-aircon
Was thinking of using 2 of them to cool the inside of my camper boat.
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03-01-2021, 08:15 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Jon
Trailer: Escape 21C
New York
Posts: 2,387
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Without a BTU & 12V current rating, I'd be concerned whether it would be worth the effort.
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03-01-2021, 08:53 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Don
Trailer: Shopping
Alabama
Posts: 135
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This is the one video I could find on it.
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03-01-2021, 09:43 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Name: Alexander
Trailer: 1979 Boler B1300
New Hampshire
Posts: 1,140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye
Without a BTU & 12V current rating, I'd be concerned whether it would be worth the effort.
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It looks like up to 10 amps for 1220 BTU's based on the spec sheet for the bigger pump:
https://uploads.strikinglycdn.com/fi...H)%20Spec..pdf
In comparison, my 6000 btu window AC would draw about 48 amps at 12 volt.
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03-01-2021, 09:52 AM
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#5
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Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
New Jersey
Posts: 52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex Adams
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I see compressor capacities quoted from 340Btu up to 1,876Btu on their website. You aren't going to do much cooling with that. These are made for very specialized spot cooling applications.
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03-01-2021, 12:35 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
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Forgetaboutit
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03-01-2021, 01:24 PM
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#7
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Member
Name: Bill & Jeanie
Trailer: Building camper in Ram Promaster van
North Carolina
Posts: 73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcs02d
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There isn't enough information given to draw any conclusions but my guess is that the cost would be prohibitive. You are better off repurposing a generic appliance such as an efficient window unit. I use a floor mounted 5k btu unit in my van with fan assisted 4" ducts through the floor to cool the evaporator. The Frigidaire unit has a remote control and I use a portable fan to help circulation. At a total cost under $200 it gives me quite adequate cooling with a very low noise level. You will need an inverter to power it but its very handy to have 110v AC available.
Link
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03-01-2021, 01:29 PM
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#8
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Member
Name: Bill & Jeanie
Trailer: Building camper in Ram Promaster van
North Carolina
Posts: 73
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Forgot to mention, the AC unit draws 460 watts maximum and has an economy mode that shuts the unit completely off between cycles.
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03-01-2021, 02:15 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Randy
Trailer: Casita 17 FD
Florida
Posts: 119
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Be aware that the unit would have to be somehow mounted such that the heat exchanger was outside the area to be cooled. It would have to be put in an opening to the outside. Otherwise, thermodynamics tells us that running the unit completely inside the space to be "air conditioned" would actually make that space hotter.
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03-01-2021, 02:36 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Tom
Trailer: BigFoot 25B25RT
Massachusetts
Posts: 592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye
Without a BTU & 12V current rating, I'd be concerned whether it would be worth the effort.
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$550.00 - $570.00
Product: Powerful Micro Air Conditioner (Pro version)
Compressor: QX1901VDH
Voltage: DC 12V
Capacity: 450W (1,535Btu)
Refrigerant: R134A
Size: 350*260*180mm (13.78*10.24*7.08 inch)
Weight: 5.0kgs (11.02lbs)
Applications:
Small Space Cooling;
Compact Air Conditioning;
Portable & compact cycle cooling;
Cabins, cuddy cabins and electric vehicles;
Carriage cooling for trucks and other specialized vehicles;
I had a 1985 Toyota van that had a cooler in the center console that would hold a six pack. It worked off the AC of course. The AC had three expansion valves and three evaporators. The front passenger area of the dash, that cooler, and another unit for the passengers. I heard that a lot of florists bought them for deliveries.
I miss that center console cooler.
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03-01-2021, 05:39 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Wil
Trailer: 2010 Casita 17' SD
Washington
Posts: 115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GatorCasita
Be aware that the unit would have to be somehow mounted such that the heat exchanger was outside the area to be cooled. It would have to be put in an opening to the outside. Otherwise, thermodynamics tells us that running the unit completely inside the space to be "air conditioned" would actually make that space hotter.
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Just to reemphasize: All the heat taken out of the air in the cube thingy (evaporator) with the two ports on the top (input and output) is going to be blown out the radiator thingy (condenser) with two computer type fans in the back. I other words, if you just set this thing on the floor of a Casita 17 (or other closed space) and turned it on you would get hotter. The heat coming out the back would be equal to the heat taken out of the air in the cube thingy plus the heat of the work needed to do that (somewhere around 460 watts). In other other words: That thing has to be outside the closed space to be cooled and have the input and output ports piped into that closed space. Not necessarily a handy thing to do.
The fellow in the video says he is going to "jamb it under the dash." Good luck!
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03-01-2021, 05:49 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Don
Trailer: Shopping
Alabama
Posts: 135
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Yeah, I was planning on a small exterior box (2 actually) with small ports for the hoses that will take air in and blow out.
figured it was better to keep cooling the cool air from inside.
I was also planning on 2 of them, blowing over the bed. At 13 amps / 12 volts / 156 watts each just one will probably do the trick and even running both it's substantially less power than the smallest window AC unit I could find.
Is there a 112 volt unity that uses that little power?
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03-01-2021, 06:46 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Wil
Trailer: 2010 Casita 17' SD
Washington
Posts: 115
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Just for interest I watched the rest of the installation in the car. He made one more mistake as far as cooling efficiency goes. Got the thing mounted under his dash with proper cooling cooling tubes, then realized he had to get rid of the hot air. So he made a shroud around the condenser box and piped it outside. Good try, but that pumps inside air outside through the condenser. Now that air must be replaced by warm/hot air from outside the car.
To make this work properly the condenser air path must be totally isolated from the evaporator air path: condenser outside and evaporator inside.
Putting the unit in a well ventilated box outside and piping the cool air path from-to the inside will work as best it can. Next question will be does it cool enough to be useful.
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03-02-2021, 08:52 AM
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#14
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Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: 2010 Escape 19
New Jersey
Posts: 52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcs02d
Yeah, I was planning on a small exterior box (2 actually) with small ports for the hoses that will take air in and blow out.
figured it was better to keep cooling the cool air from inside.
I was also planning on 2 of them, blowing over the bed. At 13 amps / 12 volts / 156 watts each just one will probably do the trick and even running both it's substantially less power than the smallest window AC unit I could find.
Is there a 112 volt unity that uses that little power?
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Don: You may be better off considering a small mini-split heat pump like I and several others have done. The benefits are numerous.
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post716179
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post714000
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03-02-2021, 11:05 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: Former 13’Scamp, now Snoozy
Arizona
Posts: 2,316
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Happier Camper was at Quartzsite AZ last year with a Dometic 12 volt prototype air conditioner mounted on the roof. Perhaps you could contact them for details and availability.
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03-03-2021, 10:38 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Roamer 1
Smith Valley, Nevada
Posts: 2,879
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At only 1,535 BTU, it seems too small, and not real easy to adapt to a trailer.
A small, approximately 5,000 BTU window unit might be better. Easier to install, and probably cheaper at some place like Home Depot. Something similar to what Snoozy does, or mounted in a window.
__________________
I only exaggerate enough to compensate for being taken with a grain of salt.
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03-04-2021, 12:35 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: Casita 16 ft
Posts: 112
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That 12v AC could work in a Casita size trailer if you put it in the back window. Then make a hanging plastic curtain in front of the bed to contain the cool air to the bed area.
Also might work if you sleep in the back of a pickup with camper shell. I used to use a small window unit set on the tailgate under the back window. Had a plywood cutout to seal the space between the AC and the other side.
Discomfort is more difficult to put up with when attempting to go to sleep. Daytime you would just have to sweat.
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