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Old 03-01-2021, 07:52 AM   #1
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Name: Don
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Micro Air conditioner

Anybody have any experience with one of these?


https://www.rigidhvac.com/micro-dc-aircon


Was thinking of using 2 of them to cool the inside of my camper boat.
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Old 03-01-2021, 08:15 AM   #2
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Without a BTU & 12V current rating, I'd be concerned whether it would be worth the effort.
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Old 03-01-2021, 08:53 AM   #3
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This is the one video I could find on it.
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Old 03-01-2021, 09:43 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye View Post
Without a BTU & 12V current rating, I'd be concerned whether it would be worth the effort.
It looks like up to 10 amps for 1220 BTU's based on the spec sheet for the bigger pump:
https://uploads.strikinglycdn.com/fi...H)%20Spec..pdf

In comparison, my 6000 btu window AC would draw about 48 amps at 12 volt.
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Old 03-01-2021, 09:52 AM   #5
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It looks like up to 10 amps for 1220 BTU's based on the spec sheet for the bigger pump:
https://uploads.strikinglycdn.com/fi...H)%20Spec..pdf

In comparison, my 6000 btu window AC would draw about 48 amps at 12 volt.
I see compressor capacities quoted from 340Btu up to 1,876Btu on their website. You aren't going to do much cooling with that. These are made for very specialized spot cooling applications.
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Old 03-01-2021, 12:35 PM   #6
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Old 03-01-2021, 01:24 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by dcs02d View Post
Anybody have any experience with one of these?


https://www.rigidhvac.com/micro-dc-aircon


Was thinking of using 2 of them to cool the inside of my camper boat.
There isn't enough information given to draw any conclusions but my guess is that the cost would be prohibitive. You are better off repurposing a generic appliance such as an efficient window unit. I use a floor mounted 5k btu unit in my van with fan assisted 4" ducts through the floor to cool the evaporator. The Frigidaire unit has a remote control and I use a portable fan to help circulation. At a total cost under $200 it gives me quite adequate cooling with a very low noise level. You will need an inverter to power it but its very handy to have 110v AC available.

Link
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Old 03-01-2021, 01:29 PM   #8
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Forgot to mention, the AC unit draws 460 watts maximum and has an economy mode that shuts the unit completely off between cycles.
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Old 03-01-2021, 02:15 PM   #9
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Be aware that the unit would have to be somehow mounted such that the heat exchanger was outside the area to be cooled. It would have to be put in an opening to the outside. Otherwise, thermodynamics tells us that running the unit completely inside the space to be "air conditioned" would actually make that space hotter.
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Old 03-01-2021, 02:36 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Jon Vermilye View Post
Without a BTU & 12V current rating, I'd be concerned whether it would be worth the effort.
$550.00 - $570.00
Product: Powerful Micro Air Conditioner (Pro version)
Compressor: QX1901VDH
Voltage: DC 12V
Capacity: 450W (1,535Btu)
Refrigerant: R134A
Size: 350*260*180mm (13.78*10.24*7.08 inch)
Weight: 5.0kgs (11.02lbs)

Applications:
Small Space Cooling;
Compact Air Conditioning;
Portable & compact cycle cooling;
Cabins, cuddy cabins and electric vehicles;
Carriage cooling for trucks and other specialized vehicles;

I had a 1985 Toyota van that had a cooler in the center console that would hold a six pack. It worked off the AC of course. The AC had three expansion valves and three evaporators. The front passenger area of the dash, that cooler, and another unit for the passengers. I heard that a lot of florists bought them for deliveries.

I miss that center console cooler.
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Old 03-01-2021, 05:39 PM   #11
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Be aware that the unit would have to be somehow mounted such that the heat exchanger was outside the area to be cooled. It would have to be put in an opening to the outside. Otherwise, thermodynamics tells us that running the unit completely inside the space to be "air conditioned" would actually make that space hotter.

Just to reemphasize: All the heat taken out of the air in the cube thingy (evaporator) with the two ports on the top (input and output) is going to be blown out the radiator thingy (condenser) with two computer type fans in the back. I other words, if you just set this thing on the floor of a Casita 17 (or other closed space) and turned it on you would get hotter. The heat coming out the back would be equal to the heat taken out of the air in the cube thingy plus the heat of the work needed to do that (somewhere around 460 watts). In other other words: That thing has to be outside the closed space to be cooled and have the input and output ports piped into that closed space. Not necessarily a handy thing to do.


The fellow in the video says he is going to "jamb it under the dash." Good luck!
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Old 03-01-2021, 05:49 PM   #12
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Yeah, I was planning on a small exterior box (2 actually) with small ports for the hoses that will take air in and blow out.



figured it was better to keep cooling the cool air from inside.


I was also planning on 2 of them, blowing over the bed. At 13 amps / 12 volts / 156 watts each just one will probably do the trick and even running both it's substantially less power than the smallest window AC unit I could find.


Is there a 112 volt unity that uses that little power?
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Old 03-01-2021, 06:46 PM   #13
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Just for interest I watched the rest of the installation in the car. He made one more mistake as far as cooling efficiency goes. Got the thing mounted under his dash with proper cooling cooling tubes, then realized he had to get rid of the hot air. So he made a shroud around the condenser box and piped it outside. Good try, but that pumps inside air outside through the condenser. Now that air must be replaced by warm/hot air from outside the car.


To make this work properly the condenser air path must be totally isolated from the evaporator air path: condenser outside and evaporator inside.


Putting the unit in a well ventilated box outside and piping the cool air path from-to the inside will work as best it can. Next question will be does it cool enough to be useful.
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Old 03-02-2021, 08:52 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by dcs02d View Post
Yeah, I was planning on a small exterior box (2 actually) with small ports for the hoses that will take air in and blow out.

figured it was better to keep cooling the cool air from inside.

I was also planning on 2 of them, blowing over the bed. At 13 amps / 12 volts / 156 watts each just one will probably do the trick and even running both it's substantially less power than the smallest window AC unit I could find.

Is there a 112 volt unity that uses that little power?
Don: You may be better off considering a small mini-split heat pump like I and several others have done. The benefits are numerous.
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post716179
https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...tml#post714000
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Old 03-02-2021, 11:05 PM   #15
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Happier Camper was at Quartzsite AZ last year with a Dometic 12 volt prototype air conditioner mounted on the roof. Perhaps you could contact them for details and availability.
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Old 03-03-2021, 10:38 AM   #16
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At only 1,535 BTU, it seems too small, and not real easy to adapt to a trailer.

A small, approximately 5,000 BTU window unit might be better. Easier to install, and probably cheaper at some place like Home Depot. Something similar to what Snoozy does, or mounted in a window.
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Old 03-04-2021, 12:35 PM   #17
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That 12v AC could work in a Casita size trailer if you put it in the back window. Then make a hanging plastic curtain in front of the bed to contain the cool air to the bed area.

Also might work if you sleep in the back of a pickup with camper shell. I used to use a small window unit set on the tailgate under the back window. Had a plywood cutout to seal the space between the AC and the other side.

Discomfort is more difficult to put up with when attempting to go to sleep. Daytime you would just have to sweat.
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