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Old 01-22-2010, 10:49 AM   #21
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I'll sit down this week and figure the right lengths and widths for each..and start making a plug for the uhaul 13 mold....It's harder to do than the scamp or burro because of the projected windows front and rear and the side depressions ...but certainly doable.
Scamps, burros, bolers and trills should all be a bit easier to do ....maybe.
I'll only be asking what it costs to make one and not looking to make extra off them. There are some things that can be done with them though if you have one...like...go after doll house or toy furniture and fixtures to do the inside...light them.......paint a scheme to stare at then change ..drag em around behind a rc car or truck..LOL....there are many 18th scale cars and trucks diecast ive looked at and I think thats the scale most doable actually..search diecast cars and trucks and see if they have yours or something close(they dont have my Ranchero but they have the car like it I could hack up)..theres alot of diorama accy's for them also..people garages tools etc........or you could just............look at it
I'm thinking mailbox?
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Old 01-22-2010, 04:42 PM   #22
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Very cool idea! I would be interested in a 13ft Boler.

And if you want to do the really obscure do a Bigfoot 5th wheel!
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:36 PM   #23
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Will one be able to gain access to the inside easily? I'd buy a 16' Scamp one if I could pop it open and make it exactly like mine inside. The interior stuff I could do and would love doing it - the making of the exterior, not so much! I've been contemplating carving one out of wood just for kicks but I'd really like to do the inside up. This sounds great.
well....they'll be hollow and two halves , soyes before joining you could add interior..I was saying earlier that doll house supplies might do or just toy stuff..I'm almost through with the uhaul rough shaping and have to add the flat areas to the roof and sides for the tail lights and side stripe area...the uhaul is actually the hardest to do I think because of these and the front and rear window area.....the rest look easier ....we'll see.
and yes I've seen the uhaul vt toy before...it's around 1/25th scale .......I'm going with 1/18th because of the many available die cast trucks and cars you can buy . ....Bruce
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:45 PM   #24
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Sounds great-I would be interested in a Compact Jr.-cream color-let us know if you make one. Thanks
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Old 01-23-2010, 02:07 AM   #25
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We have a car and trailer salt and pepper shakers. Whoever made them (china?) obviously had never seen a trailer, but they are still neat to have. We got them at the Tillamook cheese factory in Oregon.
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Old 01-23-2010, 07:51 AM   #26
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Hmmm, Escape... Similar shape to the Trillium, 17' long. That would really be a nice addition. Scroll to the bottom of the following page for some pics:

http://escapetrailer.com/Products/17FootEscape.aspx

Boy Bruce, you started something here... I really appreciate this idea!! Alone in this forum you will be able to sell quite some models! Are you sure it is not going to be too much work..??
I've made molds before for RC model airplanes with a friend..it's a bit time consuming yes..but definately doable..I'm surprised more at how many people are interested.I didnt think many would be...and actually once you have a mold ready it's not too hard to layup one...some of the materials are a bit pricy but these things are small..........Bruce
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Old 01-23-2010, 07:59 AM   #27
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I'm thinking mailbox?

cool idea
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Old 01-23-2010, 08:03 AM   #28
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I've made molds before for RC model airplanes with a friend..it's a bit time consuming yes..but definately doable..I'm surprised more at how many people are interested.I didnt think many would be...and actually once you have a mold ready it's not too hard to layup one...some of the materials are a bit pricy but these things are small..........Bruce
I'd love to see the process, through pictures that you're using for this entire process. Hope you're documenting and will share with us Perhaps others would like to do similar stuff, like fix broken items on a trailer that's no longer available for replacement.
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Old 01-23-2010, 08:16 AM   #29
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I'd love to see the process, through pictures that you're using for this entire process. Hope you're documenting and will share with us Perhaps others would like to do similar stuff, like fix broken items on a trailer that's no longer available for replacement.
There's alot of sanding and filling to do to get a plug ready for making the mold...when I start to frame that up I'll get you pics.
yes alot of things can be "splashed"...so a copy made for replacements etc.
Remember ordinary people did it the first time..no magic...lol


ps. this thing looks like a Uhaul camper! too funny.I'm gona run down later and grab a 1/18th diecast...Oh and those of you considering making your own..easy on the sanding with the foam plug....I just got to redo this thingbecause I wanted to daydream while working.
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:23 AM   #30
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there's another way of doing these if people are intereted and think they can shape what they want outta foam first by themselves....It's a bit messy but works okay, I've used it before to make cowlings for airplane models i fly.
Basically you cover what you came up with with epoxy glass or something like it....get it all sanded and smoothed how you like and pour laquer thinner in to remove the foam(that takes all of 3 seconds) and youre left holding what you carved etc....its called the lost foam technique.......I dont like it because youre holding the only one after youre done.basically......Bruce
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Old 01-24-2010, 02:27 PM   #31
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slight setback here...the dummies at the hobby shop where I buy my epoxy and finishing resin dont seem to be able to grasp that this stuff has a shelf life..so some of it isnt hardening on the areas around the front &rear windows. This will be three times in less than a year Ive had a plug ruined if it doesnt set soon.
Either way I'm gonna wait till morning before deciding what to do with it...give it more time(it's supposed to take 20 minutes).
What stinks about it is the windows on the uhaul are really tricky to get right and blend into the raised roof and for and aft panels..I hate to start over but we'll see.
On the plus side....the uhaul is the hardest to make...once outta the way things get easier.......Bruce
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Old 01-24-2010, 04:56 PM   #32
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Bruce,

Sounds like you know your way around epoxy, but have you tried a bit of heat to encourage the reaction? That will sometimes help.

What brand are you using? Lately I've been using WEST System. I am seeing mixed information about shelf life, but I had not thought it was overly sensitive to that. [Okay, last edit! This is from a source I trust:]

Shelf life is indefinite, unless the materials show visible signs of deterioration. Even partially crystallized product can often be salvaged, though unless you allow it to freeze this is unlikely.

The viscosity may change over a span of years, and the colors may change--particularly the hardener--but in general it lasts a very long time. When in doubt, and when beginning to use an old container that hasn't been touched in some time, it pays to mix a small test batch and allow it to cure to ensure that it works properly.


Of course all of the above might not apply if you using something a bit more newfangled, like G-flex in a dispenser tube set.

Also, are you being really nit-picky about your mix ratios? Are you going by weight or volume? I'm picturing you using small amounts so it would be critical. On small batches I make sure to add the resin to the hardener cup so that no hardener is left on the sides like it might be if the hardener cup was scraped into the resin cup (since it's a smaller amount, typically).

For regular resin, if it were me, I would be suspecting my mixing ratio of having an error. (see below for some troubleshooting info from WEST).


This project sounds really nifty! I can't wait to see how you go about it, and the results

Raya

PS: Here is a troubleshooting guide from WEST System's site on the subject of not curing. For their product, they don't list "too old" as a possible cause, specifically:

**************

Problem:

The epoxy mixture has not cured after the recommended cure time has passed.
POSSIBLE CAUSES & SOLUTIONS

Off ratio: Too much or too little hardener will affect the cure time and thoroughness of the cure.

1. Remove epoxy. Do not apply additional material over non-curing epoxy. See epoxy removal note in User Manual.
2. Check correct number of pump strokes: Use equal strokes of resin and hardener. DO NOT add extra hardener for faster cure!
3. Check for correct pump (5:1 or 3:1 ratio) and pump group size (Group B resin and Group B hardener).
4. Check pump ratio (see pump instructions). See Dispensing in the User Manual.

Low temperature: epoxy mixtures cure slower at low temperatures.

1. Allow extra curing time in cool weather.
2. Apply heat to maintain the chemical reaction and sped the cure.
3. Use a faster hardener, designed to cure at lower temperatures.
4. See Understanding Cure Time in the User Manual.

Insufficient mixing.

1. Remove epoxy. Do not apply additional material over non-curing epoxy. See epoxy removal note.
2. Mix resin and hardener together thoroughly to avoid resin-rich and hardener-rich areas.
3. Add fillers or additives after resin and hardener have been thoroughly mixed

See Mixing in the User Manual.

Incorrect products.

1. Remove epoxy. Do not apply additional material over non-curing epoxy. See epoxy removal note in the user manual.
2. Check for proper resin and hardener. Resin will not cure properly with other brands of hardener or with polyester catalysts.
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Old 01-24-2010, 07:20 PM   #33
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Raya

Ive been fiberglassing models for years and made a few molds.... I'm aware of ratio probs etc and have tried heat before... I wouldn't know where "model" supply houses get their epoxy but wouldn't be surprised if it were west systems relabeled or any other for that matter...I'm good with mixing and use normally and have had this happen before to other kits...no signs of crystalization though I wouldn't be surprised if it had frozen before I got them........ who knows......I mix in small measuring cups usually , it's actually easy.the epoxy is bad I fear... either way Im not trying this batch on another piece..I'll get it though, don't worry
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Old 01-24-2010, 08:25 PM   #34
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Okay, sounds like you have the methods in hand

Considering that you've had repeated problems with the epoxy from your source, maybe you might want to try WEST or some other brand? I've had really consistent results with the ones I've used (WEST, System Three, MAS).

Sounds as though you will prevail

Raya
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Old 02-14-2010, 07:27 PM   #35
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Wondering how it was coming Bruce. I know you were having problems getting the epoxy to dry. Having any success?
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Old 02-15-2010, 06:28 PM   #36
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Wondering how it was coming Bruce. I know you were having problems getting the epoxy to dry. Having any success?
yes It's coming okay though i havent been at it enough.......maybe by sunday i'll have it ready for some pics I will wana show instead of the last disaster that stayed wet.
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Old 02-15-2010, 07:31 PM   #37
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yes It's coming okay though i havent been at it enough.......maybe by sunday i'll have it ready for some pics I will wana show instead of the last disaster that stayed wet.
good for you and good for us!
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Old 02-17-2010, 10:57 AM   #38
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I was at the Quartzsite rally this weekend.

I was dreaming about learning to do this to make a 5th wheel dog house. I had lots of time to daydream!
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Old 02-19-2010, 08:26 PM   #39
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We would be interested in a UHaul model. We have the 16' VT but a 13' toy model would be fine, too. There are too few 16' VTs around to make it worth your while to do that one.

Kevin and Cindy
Oak Park, IL
There is a U-haul toy camper on ebay for sale.
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Old 02-19-2010, 08:30 PM   #40
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Thanks. We saw that. We also have more than one of these at home.

Cindy
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