New Blog Educate me on the 16 Foot Scamps

[RV NUT CASE]

Ok I am pretty much sold on a 16 footer. I know nothing about these trailers ok. I have done plenty of RV repair, but I am not knowledgable on these trailers;

Heres some questions :

Cold if your in extream cold which I am in some times when I am up in the North west are these trailers going to crack when you get in and out of them? I am talking snow and blizzards and 20 25 degree weather or worse.

2. I know as far as the floor plan they are all different like any other trailer depending on the years and what they were ordered with.
So with a 16 foot will it at least have a sink two way fridge hot water heater holding tanks? Don't want a shower nor comode. But will the 16 footers come with at least this or did some just come really bare with not options?

3. If you have to change out a roof vent and you have an older trailer thats been out in the sun and weather beaten how do you keep from busting the plastic all to hell getting up on the rooof to change out a vent or AC . This is a big concern for me. I am 6.2 and 250 plus guy. When I get on top is my fat A## going to fall through, And no I am not going to stand on it ! I would have carpet to kneel on.

4. can you still get all the parts doors windows etc from the factory for most of these. Are they standard through out the years?

5.Are the windows and any seams prone to leaking? If your in extream heat will the shell warp out of shape causing the door and other compartments not to close properly because the structure is out of alignment?

Ok these are my question for now. You have been so helpfull and supportive on my other blog guys . Can't thank you enough.

Oh do the 16 footers come standard with electric brakes?

[MyronL]

1. Fiberglass cracks when you whack it hard enough. My 16 ft Scamp survived some really cold winters. Once, under a canopy that became loaded down with heavy ice and snow which then collapsed onto it. Shell never cracked.

2. It came with a sink. I never used it. When I gutted the Scamp the sink area got replaced with a dinette. Came also with a 3 way fridge that did not work anyway so I dumped that too, and use an ice box. This eliminated a heck of a lot of for me-- redundant, weight. When you go hunting for your 16 you will find them that got those conveniences and them that ain't. Depends on if or what the previous owner did to make it his/her own.

3. I am about your size, maybe larger. You are not going to go walking on your Scamp roof. You work off a ladder. They sell replacement vent covers. You might realize your best move is to simply replace entire vent with a new one. My Scamp escape hatch cover was cracked and ugly but I refused to pay $75bucks for a replacement so I repaired it with liquid fiberglass resin and paint. Worked for me. Never had air conditioner in a trailer so cannot address that issue.

4. Factory bought windows are insanely expensive. I shopped ebay until I found the match I needed. Plenty of guys out there selling parts off wrecks, and even dealers that need to unload special order windows after the buyer stiffed them. You'll find many of us using butyl tape to reseal leaking windows. No problem. Search this forum.

5. Doors can warp, but it has never been an issue for me. In my opinion what is more likely to happen is the factory did a crappy job of fitting a door. Your biggest water leaks worry will be finding hidden rot in the flooring.

6. Never heard of a Scamp seam leaking. Their 6-zillion rivets though, could leak if they are tired enough.

[Frederick L. Simson]

Originally Posted by RV NUT CASE

Ok I am pretty much sold on a 16 footer.

2. I know as far as the floor plan they are all different like any other trailer depending on the years and what they were ordered with.
So with a 16 foot will it at least have a sink two way fridge hot water heater holding tanks? Don't want a shower nor comode. But will the 16 footers come with at least this or did some just come really bare with not options?

Oh do the 16 footers come standard with electric brakes?

Scamp 16' Trailers
It is possible that some of the used Scamp 16' trailers might be "bare-bones" basic. It depends on how much money the previous owners had to spend. The following is what a "Bare-bones" basic trailer has:

Scamp 16' Standard Specifications/Features
30 amp power converter
12 volt lighting
Ice box standard
12 gallon fresh water tank
Two burner propane stove
Propane tank
Side Porch light
Roof vent
Four inch cushions
Curtains
Sink
10” electric brakes
25ft 30amp electric supply cord
Spare tire & cover
Safety chains
Tires: 13” C load radial
Carpet
Privacy room
Fiberglass cabinets
Crank open windows & screens
Mounted rear stabilizer jacks
Small window over range

Everything not on the list above is an available option at extra cost:
Scamp 16' Standard Available Options
"Shower package" (The most common options asked for are sold together as a package)

• City water
• 1.9 Cubic foot refrigerator
• Battery pack
• Gravel Shield
• Screen door
• Side cabinets
• Cabinet over sink
• Silverware drawer
• Gas hot water heater
• 12 volt water pump
• Grey water tank

Toilet only (can be ordered without the "shower option")
Sani potti
Three speed roof fan
Cable TV hook up
Roof Mount air conditioner
Power range hood (12 volt)
4.6 cubic foot refrigerator
Furnace (16,000 BTU)
Conventional Oven
Extra interior 12 volt lights
10 ft awning
TV antenna
Dual gas tanks
Front cabinets
Rear cabinets
Outside step
2" receiver for bike racks
Exterior Ground fault outlet
Stove cover
Mircowave oven
Wheel on jack
Gas & electric hot water heater
Group 27 battery pack
Splash guard (per side)
Vinyl floor
Extra fresh water tank
Deluxe curtains
Deluxe carpet
Deluxe blue/grey wall liner
Propane gauge
Heat strip for roof air
12 volt plug
Extra 120 volt interior plugs
Phone jack
Front porch light

[RV NUT CASE]

Originally Posted by Myron Leski

1. Fiberglass cracks when you whack it hard enough. My 16 ft Scamp survived some really cold winters. Once, under a canopy that became loaded down with heavy ice and snow which then collapsed onto it. Shell never cracked.

2. It came with a sink. I never used it. When I gutted the Scamp the sink area got replaced with a dinette. Came also with a 3 way fridge that did not work anyway so I dumped that too, and use an ice box. This eliminated a heck of a lot of for me-- redundant, weight. When you go hunting for your 16 you will find them that got those conveniences and them that ain't. Depends on if or what the previous owner did to make it his/her own.

3. I am about your size, maybe larger. You are not going to go walking on your Scamp roof. You work off a ladder. They sell replacement vent covers. You might realize your best move is to simply replace entire vent with a new one. My Scamp escape hatch cover was cracked and ugly but I refused to pay $75bucks for a replacement so I repaired it with liquid fiberglass resin and paint. Worked for me. Never had air conditioner in a trailer so cannot address that issue.

4. Factory bought windows are insanely expensive. I shopped ebay until I found the match I needed. Plenty of guys out there selling parts off wrecks, and even dealers that need to unload special order windows after the buyer stiffed them. You'll find many of us using butyl tape to reseal leaking windows. No problem. Search this forum.

5. Doors can warp, but it has never been an issue for me. In my opinion what is more likely to happen is the factory did a crappy job of fitting a door. Your biggest water leaks worry will be finding hidden rot in the flooring.

6. Never heard of a Scamp seam leaking. Their 6-zillion rivets though, could leak if they are tired enough.

Why would the floor rot if the trailer is fairly tight ?

You have confused me I allready said I am not walking on the roof but in order to replace a vent you have to get on the roof and take out all the screws remove the vent clean all the gum tape off then reinstall the new one then coat with snow coat. I don't know how eles to do this job every one I did required getting on the roof????? You lost me I dont walk on a regular roof on a RV I get a board and carpet so I dont sag the roof material. Is there so way to do this job on a Scamp that I am not familar with??????? Even when you just replace the cover you still have to get on the roof????

[Hambone]

no getting on my Scamp roof and I weigh only 168 pounds. Replaced my Escape hatch by ladder and standing through the hatch. Installed a maxx fan, using ladder and standing through the escape hatch

[Mike Magee]

Why would a floor rot? If a water line inside the trailer leaked for a long time, or if a window or vent needed to be re-sealed and was neglected for a long time, the repeated doses of water could rot the floor. Old rivets can allow leaks also, but I don't think it's as frequent an issue as the other two I mentioned (I could be wrong though). Any time a window or vent is observed to be letting water in, taking it off and reasealing it with butyl tape (not silicone, ever!) is pretty straightforward, I've been told.

About replacing a vent: the Scamp is only 6.5' wide. My stick built trailer is 7' wide, yet I was able to stand on a ladder and easily reach the vent area to install a maxx-air cover. I just moved the ladder from the left side to the right side when I wanted to reach the other side. So I don't think you would have much trouble changing or resealing a vent from a ladder leaning against the side.

[RV NUT CASE]

Originally Posted by Hambone

no getting on my Scamp roof and I weigh only 168 pounds. Replaced my Escape hatch by ladder and standing through the hatch. Installed a maxx fan, using ladder and standing through the escape hatch

What if Bubba cant fit through the escape hatch? Where is the escape hatch?

Bubba get on top Bubba end up on floor! Wow if did not realize that these trailers had such big sunroof?

[Byron Kinnaman]

Originally Posted by RV NUT CASE

Why would the floor rot if the trailer is fairly tight ?

You have confused me I allready said I am not walking on the roof but in order to replace a vent you have to get on the roof and take out all the screws remove the vent clean all the gum tape off then reinstall the new one then coat with snow coat. I don't know how eles to do this job every one I did required getting on the roof????? You lost me I dont walk on a regular roof on a RV I get a board and carpet so I dont sag the roof material. Is there so way to do this job on a Scamp that I am not familar with??????? Even when you just replace the cover you still have to get on the roof????

I really suggest that you find somebody that has a Scamp of any size and take a look at it. Molded Fiberglass is NOT like any other RV construction. "Snow Coat" is not used or necessary.
The vent is oversized and used as an escape hatch. You go up through the vent from the inside and get at all the rivets (no screws). You can also get just the cover and not need to remove or replace the frame.
Like I said your best bet is to look at one, any size will do. to understand the construction.

[Otters]

I removed the old vent and installed a Fantastic Fan. I just stood on a ladder and leaned forward to reach it. I'm only 5'5" and had no trouble reaching it from each side to put the butyl tape down, trim ring, drill holes, install the screws and finally caulk. Not a problem with our little Scamps.

[RV NUT CASE]

Originally Posted by Mike Magee

Why would a floor rot? If a water line inside the trailer leaked for a long time, or if a window or vent needed to be re-sealed and was neglected for a long time, the repeated doses of water could rot the floor. Old rivets can allow leaks also, but I don't think it's as frequent an issue as the other two I mentioned (I could be wrong though). Any time a window or vent is observed to be letting water in, taking it off and reasealing it with butyl tape (not silicone, ever!) is pretty straightforward, I've been told.

About replacing a vent: the Scamp is only 6.5' wide. My stick built trailer is 7' wide, yet I was able to stand on a ladder and easily reach the vent area to install a maxx-air cover. I just moved the ladder from the left side to the right side when I wanted to reach the other side. So I don't think you would have much trouble changing or resealing a vent from a ladder leaning against the side.

Ok that is good to know. I have taken off and installed AC units I bet not being able to get on the roof this would be really tricky? I guess I really do need to see one.

The way the guy was talking about the floor rotting out I thought he ment it leaked in from bellow from the pan or somthing? Spraying up from the road So yeah Leaking roof would structure that would take any floor out.

[RV NUT CASE]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

I really suggest that you find somebody that has a Scamp of any size and take a look at it. Molded Fiberglass is NOT like any other RV construction. "Snow Coat" is not used or necessary.
The vent is oversized and used as an escape hatch. You go up through the vent from the inside and get at all the rivets (no screws). You can also get just the cover and not need to remove or replace the frame.
Like I said your best bet is to look at one, any size will do. to understand the construction.

You missunder stood me. I know the roof doesnt need resealed like a standard RV. When you install a new Vent assembly I am talking the complete unit you put down Gum tape screw it down or pop rivet it then just on top of the plate for the vent you put a coat of snow coat to seal the flange and rivets or sheet metal screws. That was all I was talking about. But yes you are correct I really do need to see one.

If you were just replacing the cover for the vent then you are correct then nothing would be needed just install the cover.

[RV NUT CASE]

Originally Posted by Frederick L. Simson

Scamp 16' Trailers
It is possible that some of the used Scamp 16' trailers might be "bare-bones" basic. It depends on how much money the previous owners had to spend. The following is what a "Bare-bones" basic trailer has:
Attachment 64080
Scamp 16' Standard Specifications/Features
30 amp power converter
12 volt lighting
Ice box standard
12 gallon fresh water tank
Two burner propane stove
Propane tank
Side Porch light
Roof vent
Four inch cushions
Curtains
Sink
10” electric brakes
25ft 30amp electric supply cord
Spare tire & cover
Safety chains
Tires: 13” C load radial
Carpet
Privacy room
Fiberglass cabinets
Crank open windows & screens
Mounted rear stabilizer jacks
Small window over range

Everything not on the list above is an available option at extra cost:
Scamp 16' Standard Available Options
"Shower package" (The most common options asked for are sold together as a package)

• City water
• 1.9 Cubic foot refrigerator
• Battery pack
• Gravel Shield
• Screen door
• Side cabinets
• Cabinet over sink
• Silverware drawer
• Gas hot water heater
• 12 volt water pump
• Grey water tank

Toilet only (can be ordered without the "shower option")
Sani potti
Three speed roof fan
Cable TV hook up
Roof Mount air conditioner
Power range hood (12 volt)
4.6 cubic foot refrigerator
Furnace (16,000 BTU)
Conventional Oven
Extra interior 12 volt lights
10 ft awning
TV antenna
Dual gas tanks
Front cabinets
Rear cabinets
Outside step
2" receiver for bike racks
Exterior Ground fault outlet
Stove cover
Mircowave oven
Wheel on jack
Gas & electric hot water heater
Group 27 battery pack
Splash guard (per side)
Vinyl floor
Extra fresh water tank
Deluxe curtains
Deluxe carpet
Deluxe blue/grey wall liner
Propane gauge
Heat strip for roof air
12 volt plug
Extra 120 volt interior plugs
Phone jack
Front porch light

I want the shower option with out the shower or the one holer can use that for closet space. Thanks for sending this to me !

[MyronL]

How would a floor rot if the trailer is fairly tight? When the trailer is not fairly tight. (Something you don't usually need to worry about if buying a factory new one.) Otherwise, ....Negligence, failed repairs, dumb repairs, ignored early signs of trouble, yes, the usual suspects. Water always finds a way. Take a look at the picture of the ovrsized escape hatch as it came with my 16. Ugly stuff, eh? Think water might find a way past that hatch? Yes it did.

Some sellers are ignorant they have floor rot, some will not hesitate to hide floor rot---been there--re: pix. Not likely to have a rotted floor caused by water coming anywhere else other than from above. Think windows, leaky hoses, rivets, or a bad door seal. These be the weak spots.

Compared to stick-built, where every seam is a potential leak, leaks are at absolute minimum. This is the beauty of the fiberglass trailer!

"When I get on top is my fat A## going to fall through, And no I am not going to stand on it ! I would have carpet to kneel on."

Don't think that carpet would help you much, Nut Case. I can see how I caused you to be confused about roof work. I thought you would notice the ladder in my picture, and figure out from there how that would work better.

[Bob Miller]

"Snow Coat" isn't used on FGRV's.

Standard RV putty tape is used to seal almost all openings, roof vents, side windows, side vents etc. Some owners also use a self leveling RV sealer like Sikaflex on roof vents, but that's about all. BTW: I never use any kind of silicone sealer on fiberglass. Most will peel back and leak and the few Marine products that do work, stick so well that you can't remove the item sealed in the future without damage.

I have seen a very few floors with water damage in FGRV's, it is very rare and most likely caused by a window or vent being left open rather than a structural leak. In actually looking at FGRV's you will see less than 1/10th of the examples of water leak damage that you will see in conventional "stick-built" RV's. It's one of the biggest reasons why we like them.

In the price range you mentioned it's a crap shoot as to what will be in the trailer and what still works. Some originally fully equipped trailers will have refrigerators, furnaces and water system that don't work, some basic units will be all accessorized by previous owners and be nicer than a new one as to features. In finding an FGRV it's a bit difficult to be choosy about floor plans and accessories, what ya see is what ya get.

Those that get a mind set about "exactly" what they want, are usually listed on the site as "still looking", sometimes years later.

[RV NUT CASE]

Originally Posted by Myron Leski

How would a floor rot if the trailer is fairly tight? When the trailer is not fairly tight. (Something you don't usually need to worry about if buying a factory new one.) Otherwise, ....Negligence, failed repairs, dumb repairs, ignored early signs of trouble, yes, the usual suspects. Water always finds a way. Take a look at the picture of the ovrsized escape hatch as it came with my 16. Ugly stuff, eh? Think water might find a way past that hatch? Yes it did.

Some sellers are ignorant they have floor rot, some will not hesitate to hide floor rot---been there--re: pix. Not likely to have a rotted floor caused by water coming anywhere else other than from above. Think windows, leaky hoses, rivets, or a bad door seal. These be the weak spots.

Compared to stick-built, where every seam is a potential leak, leaks are at absolute minimum. This is the beauty of the fiberglass trailer!

"When I get on top is my fat A## going to fall through, And no I am not going to stand on it ! I would have carpet to kneel on."

Don't think that carpet would help you much, Nut Case. I can see how I caused you to be confused about roof work. I thought you would notice the ladder in my picture, and figure out from there how that would work better.

Hey I like the one holer in the back is that an option on scamps? You can crap while ya cruise this will be a big hit with family and freinds! Sorry I am such a smart a##! You are right though I really need to find one and check for my self. Thanks for the pics and info!

[RV NUT CASE]

Originally Posted by Bob Miller

"Snow Coat" isn't used on FGRV's.

Standard RV putty tape is used to seal almost all openings, roof vents, side windows, side vents etc. Some owners also use a self leveling RV sealer like Sikaflex on roof vents, but that's about all. BTW: I never use any kind of silicone sealer on fiberglass. Most will peel back and leak and the few Marine products that do work, stick so well that you can't remove the item sealed in the future without damage.

I have seen a very few floors with water damage in FGRV's, it is very rare and most likely caused by a window or vent being left open rather than a structural leak. In actually looking at FGRV's you will see less than 1/10th of the examples of water leak damage that you will see in conventional "stick-built" RV's. It's one of the biggest reasons why we like them.

In the price range you mentioned it's a crap shoot as to what will be in the trailer and what still works. Some originally fully equipped trailers will have refrigerators, furnaces and water system that don't work, some basic units will be all accessorized by previous owners and be nicer than a new one as to features. In finding an FGRV it's a bit difficult to be choosy about floor plans and accessories, what ya see is what ya get.

Those that get a mind set about "exactly" what they want, are usually listed on the site as "still looking", sometimes years later.

I wellcome a trailer that needs all this work because I can service all of this. And besides I can steal it for rock bottom price. My main concern is structure damage roof floory etc. The rest I can fix. I would love to find one with hot water heater, sinks two way frige etc. As long as the cooling unit is good I can fix it. I have had these fridges apart and furnaces and hot water heaters just about any componet on a RV Electrical I have worked on. So bring it on!

[Roger C H]

Here is a brief explanation of the advantage of all around fiberglass.

Some have wooden floors exposed on the bottom, I think.

Trillium RV - Orange County RV - YouTube

The location and contact information is out of date. Here is the current:

trilliumrv.com

If you decide on new, Trillium is located in Florence, AZ just SE of Phoenix. Tell Tom Roger sent you. LOL

I understand that some brands actually had the plywood floor edges exposed in the wheel wells. I'm thinking Burro, but I might be wrong. I also think it is on this blog somewhere.

[Bob Miller]

Originally Posted by RV NUT CASE

I wellcome a trailer that needs all this work because I can service all of this. And besides I can steal it for rock bottom price.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

There are only a few things you have to do to "steal it for a rock bottom price":

1. Be first.... There may be as many as 50 vultures on this site (including moi) that check every FGRV for-sale venue 2-3 times a day looking for exactly what you are looking to buy.

2. Have cash in hand. "Wanna Trade" has almost no chance of success..... If for no other reason than the sellers phone has usually been ringing all day long with other interested buyers. In the hour that it took to buy our last FGRV, a 13' Lil' BigFoot, the sellers phone rang 4 times with interested buyers. When we picked it up the next day the seller offered to refund 150% of our deposit to cancel the deal.

3. Consider making an advance deposit to hold the trailer until you can inspect. There are several ways to make a deposit before inspecting, I use PayPal for immediate deposits. This tells the seller that you will show up. Walking away from a small deposit is a lot better than driving 325 miles only to see "Your" trailer leaving behind someone elses TV, as happened to us on one occasion.

4. Know what you are buying, not only in terms of the rig itself, but also know what documentation from the seller is needed. In some cases buyers have gotten stuck paying up to 5 years back registration and penalties on trailers that had sat unregistered for years. In another example it took almost 3 years to get a clear title.

5. Ferget finding a "Really dumb seller", one that is selling something cheap. For every one of those, there are 10 smarter sellers that are little more than scammers. If it sounds to good to be true, it usually is.

Other than that, it's pretty easy

[RV NUT CASE]

Originally Posted by Roger C H

Here is a brief explanation of the advantage of all around fiberglass.

Some have wooden floors exposed on the bottom, I think.

The location and contact information is out of date. Here is the current:

trilliumrv.com

If you decide on new, Trillium is located in Florence, AZ just SE of Phoenix. Tell Tom Roger sent you. LOL

I understand that some brands actually had the plywood floor edges exposed in the wheel wells. I'm thinking Burro, but I might be wrong. I also think it is on this blog somewhere.

Thanks for the video ! I am not going new cant afford it. I would have to be traveling alot to go new. I want used , steal it or trade for it and have it free and clear with title. If I go with the GTO its going to cost me thousands just to get the poor car back on the road. Other wise if I get one of these trailers I will take the Police Enterceptor Crown Vic. Just needs some upgrades on the rear suspension and a brake controller. But new is out definately. I have a very nice Nomad that is paid for and a truck that needs to much needed TLC to be road worthy again.

If I can get one of these for rock bottom or trade my bike for one then I will go for it as long as its not busted up to hell. Structure needs to be good the rest I can fix

I did enjoy the video thanks again!

[RV NUT CASE]

[QUOTE=Bob Miller;415687]

Originally Posted by RV NUT CASE

I wellcome a trailer that needs all this work because I can service all of this. And besides I can steal it for rock bottom price.

--------------------------------------------------------------------

There are only a few things you have to do to "steal it for a rock bottom price":

1. Be first.... There may be as many as 50 vultures on this site (including moi) that check every FGRV for-sale venue 2-3 times a day looking for exactly what you are looking to buy.

2. Have cash in hand. "Wanna Trade" has almost no chance of success..... If for no other reason than the sellers phone has usually been ringing all day long with other interested buyers. In the hour that it took to buy our last FGRV, a 13' Lil' BigFoot, the sellers phone rang 4 times with interested buyers. When we picked it up the next day the seller offered to refund 150% of our deposit to cancel the deal.

3. Consider making an advance deposit to hold the trailer until you can inspect. There are several ways to make a deposit before inspecting, I use PayPal for immediate deposits. This tells the seller that you will show up. Walking away from a small deposit is a lot better than driving 325 miles only to see seeing "Your" trailer leaving behind someone elses TV, as happened to us on one occasion.

4. Know what you are buying, not only in terms of the rig itself, but also know what documentation from the seller is needed. In some cases buyers have gotten stuck paying up to 5 years back registration and penalties on trailers that had sat unregistered for years. In another example it took almost 3 years to get a clear title.

5. Ferget finding a "Really dumb seller", one that is selling something cheap. For every one of those, there are 10 smarter sellers that are little more than scammers. If it sounds to good to be true, it usually is.

Other than that, it's pretty easy

You see I have the right frame of mind to buy one rock bottom price or trade I dont car either way. If I get one fine if I dont I dont really care. I have a very nice Nomad travel trailer and a very nice 3/4 ton pickup that needs a little work. I have dumped thousands of dollars into both. The Nomade tows beatifully! It backs up so nice I wouldnt trade it for one of these pille of junk new trailers its all solid wood inside and American made@ They don't make them like this anymore. I just love the way they made trailers in the 80s!

If I get one of these plastic trailers I might use it once a year. I would like to do the GTO and the trailer if it doesnt happen then it dont happen. I dont really need the trailer at all . I would be cool to put this project together but I am not going to get my butt hurt if I dont find one.

So if I cant steal it or trade I really dont care. I just wont get one. Not trying to sound mean or nasty please don't take it that way/

Iam not going to jump through hoops and do a song and dance to buy one of these if he dont want to deal or trade oh well no sale. I will keep the Nomad and go on my trip to the Oregon coast anyway/ I dont need one of these trailers really dont. It if happens it happens if not oh well no big deal