Newbie questions about a Scamp 13'

[floyd]

Originally Posted by rdickens

IMHO - If your tow vehicle permits, a wired brake controller is better. With the cabin layout of our 2014 Ford Escape, mounting a wired controller was going to be difficult and we did use the Techonsha Prodigy RF.

We have always used Group 27 batteries. Even a 35 watt portable (non-mounted) solar panel will likely keep your battery topped off for multi-day boondocking outings if your lighting is LED and you don't run the top-mounted fan all day and night. We use the 12v outlet both for charging electronics and for a 12v table fan when we are boondocking (i.e. at the Oshkosh Air Show).

Good luck with your decisions!

Ray

Perfect application for an "InSight"....

[Stephanie L]

Originally Posted by Civilguy

You may be at or over some of the manufacturer's published towing capacity limits for your vehicle. Volvo has some unusual language concerning exceeding their stated capacities in their manual for the 2020 model:



https://www.volvocars.com/ph/support...d-towball-load

It would be helpful to review the trailer weights in the real world spreadsheet, and it's always very important to understand the manufacturer's stated capacities and limitations for the actual model year that you own.

http://lakeshoreimages.com/spreadsheets/Weight.xls

You know what?! You're right. We're fine with the max weight of the trailer but the tow hitch is likely going to be an issue (it doesn't take that much). We want to be sure we have a good amount of capacity left over and given we were right at the limit with the standard trailer, we'd likely have issues.........I can't believe I'm saying this but I think it's back to the drawing board!

[thrifty bill]

The main problem I have with any range hood is it is just one more penetration (hole) through the side of the trailer. No thanks! When I need ventilation for cooking, I just use my Maxxfan (or whatever brand it is, I do not recall right now). It also takes up space, the smaller the trailer, the more each item inside needs to be useful enough to be worth the spot it is occupying.

As far as towing in the winter, the more flexible you are on schedule, the easier it becomes. And when the weather is right, head south as fast as possible. I have no interest in towing a trailer in the middle of a snow storm. But once the sun is out, and the roads are dry, its not a problem. Some state DOT web sites include active cameras of road conditions. We were sitting in Golden, CO last January, waiting for favorable road conditions. Delayed our travel by two days, then made a beeline on I-70 to Salinas, UT before the next storm rolled in.

Years ago, we lived in Atlanta and decided to drive home to Illinois (Chicago) to spend Christmas with family. The only snow we saw on the road for that entire trip was our driveway in Atlanta!

[Civilguy]

Originally Posted by Stephanie L

I can't believe I'm saying this but I think it's back to the drawing board!

You might try sending a PM to Ellpea in CA. She might be able to help connect you to with some answers about Volvos.

https://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/...+ca-64754.html

[rdickens]

Weight wise, you may be fine? 100kg = 220lbs
However, I second the notion of talking to a Volvo owner.

I also agree that everything you add onto or into a Scamp13 should be so worthwhile that it justifies the weight and/or drag increase.

Our first FGRV was a Scamp13 Std Layout 1 + 54" Bed that we initially pulled with a Honda CRV (Honda rating 1500lbs tow). We splurged on a refrigerator (instead of ice box), additional interior lighting (immediately converted to LED), additional electrical outlets [several 110v inside + 1 outside] and one 12v), and all available interior fiberglass cabinets. We omitted the furnace (used ceramic space heater), an awning (used a CLAM screen room/tent), the top-mounted AC (used a 5,000 BTU window AC in the back window whenever we needed AC), an interior bathroom (we used campground bathrooms or an emergency porta-potty), etc.

If I calculated correctly, the empty weight should have been about 1250 lbs; leaving us about 250 lbs for clothes, cooking gear, and food. We used our Scamp13 for about 4 years and never really felt deprived. You might find that there are trade-off for many/most things on some folks initial wish lists?

Despite urban legends, I'm not sure that the Deluxe wood interior weighs a lot more than the molded fiberglass interior? It's possible that all of the additional/upgraded stuff in a Deluxe increases the weight more than the wood interior components. Just a guess ..... ????

After our Scamp13 Std, we moved up to a Scamp16 Deluxe Layout A (with a free swap of front sofa/bunks instead of the usual front dinette - so that we could sleep at least a couple of grandkids). Our current empty tongue weight is around 220 lbs and our tow weight is about 2200 to 2400 lbs.

Best of luck with your decisions!

Ray

Our Scamp16D-A:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...EVhNVo1VHQ0WFU

Our Scamp13:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...CAYZjsemPLIDz6

[rdickens]

Stephanie,

Some of your previous respondents are veterans of the FGRV community and have provided excellent insights.

The one final piece of advice that I would offer is that you should try to take a "road trip" to the factory and/or attend a rally. With the amount of money that you are considering spending, either of those options should be time and money well spent.

If you go to the factory, I would call ahead and try to talk with Wayne Pitlick (our salesman for both our Scamp13 and Scamp16D). While others may also be good, I know that Wayne is knowledgeable and he does do email (some apparently don't) and he would likely sent a "sample kit" of cushion fabrics, wall covering, and vinyl flooring. (I don't want and likely won't get any benefit ... just maybe some good will if you mention my name.)

If you try to go to a rally, they generally have an "open house" on one of the days. You can see inside/outside many trailers, see their "mods", see their tow vehicles, and talk at length with the owners. Some campgrounds have "rental cabins". Otherwise, you might choose to stay in a nearby motel, buy/borrow a tent, or maybe rent/borrow a small trailer (I think that Camping World has small pop-up trailers for rent.)

It is so much better to be able to step inside an FGRV than to just look at pictures and an "options sheet". IMHO - it would be hard to stress this too much!

If we ever decided to downsize to a Scamp13D, I would try to pattern ours based on Floyd's Scamp13D (Floyd posted above). Floyd has done many worthwhile "mods" (including a very nice U-shaped rear dinette seating/bed arrangement) and I would regard him as a trusted source of Scamp13D and general camping information.

Again, best of luck on your decisions/choices!

Ray

[Stephanie L]

Thank you again to everyone. I am grateful for all of your insights and knowledge. We'll figure this out! All the best and have a safe summer!!

[Yank]

Hi Stephanie L
Accordibng to SCAMP Catalog they come in either 44 or 55 inch. Guess you will have to measure before you purchase. ss I couldn't be more exact.

Welcome to RVillage. hope you have great trips and precious memories.

Yank

[Yank]

HI STEPHANIE L

as for the Electric Brakes on a Scamp with the 7 pin connection, e-trailer.com has a plug in (No Wiring necessary) for the4 electric brakes. just plug it in to your 7 pin connector and plug the trailer into it. It is a Curt Echo Wireless 1-2 axel- proportionate- C51180 and sells for $229.00. You will need to remember to disconnect it when you get to where you are going so noone borrowes it from you. Hope this is a help.

Yank

[Scamp16]

Ok i just read this my 2 cents. Background, purchased new both a 13 and 16 delux both had a front bathroom.i trsveled thousands of miles in them.

Get everything you can except the strip heater , the fan is loud. Go buy a small ceramic heater ( 110 ) with a thermostat.on it.

1) Why everything ? because if your going to really use it youll be glad you didnt scrimp on stuff. Its going to take you at least a year on your order. Now here is where youll come out. Supply and demand ( remeber the enjoy part). I used my 13D for over 3 years and sold it for what i paid for it. Go try that with the Indiana junk thsts built. Both have held up but youll always have to fiddle with something but its no bjg deals..

Lee

[Doc Wood]

I have towed my 13' deluxe Scamp with my 2016 Subaru Outback for two years. I highly recommend the breaks Scamp installs. However, make sure that they wire them to your lights and you drive with your lights on! Also, you will find that the trailer is so light that sometimes the anti-lock kicks in giving you a thumping noise that will scare the bejeezus out of you. To solve that, put about 10-15 gallons of water on board so the trailer has some heft to it.

As for using the AC to heat, maybe. But the heater they install is so efficient and well regulated I only use it.

I also recommend the auto fan install. Does a nice job of keeping the trailer at a reasonable temp. on hot days when you are away.

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by Doc Wood

.... I highly recommend the breaks Scamp installs. However, make sure that they wire them to your lights and you drive with your lights on!

The brakes (not breaks) should be operational even when the lights are not on. Perhaps you are thinking of wiring to the brake light so the controller knows when the brake pedal is pressed. That is acceptable for some controllers.

Originally Posted by Doc Wood

....Also, you will find that the trailer is so light that sometimes the anti-lock kicks in giving you a thumping noise that will scare the bejeezus out of you. ...

Are you sure there is not a setting in the tow vehicle for use when towing that will prevent this? Or perhaps the brake controller or the actual brakes on the trailer's wheels are not properly adjusted. I'm not familiar with your vehicle but something does not sound right (or safe).

[TracyG]

Others have covered a lot, but I'll add a couple of points. First, maybe this is so basic that no one said it, but the 12v socket is necessary for those times that you do not have an electric hookup. It pulls straight from the battery and is a more efficient use of your battery power than 110V inverted from the battery for regular household plugs. I charge my electronics and run fans in my 12v socket and recharge my battery with a small solar charger. Second, I pull my 1980 Scamp 13 with a Subaru Tribeca and I installed the Autowbrake after market. Bought it on Amazon because it has great reviews and is about the only brake that will work with a 4-pin hook up and is powered through your car light power line. It is hardwired to your TV brakes but also has a little key fob that allows you to transmit extra braking power wirelessly -- I have never used that and cannot see myself doing it. I came down a 9-mile long 6% grade in the mountains of Arizona yesterday with no problem. The Autowbrake was a very easy hook up and I like it. Read the Amazon reviews. Happy travels!

[gordon2]

Originally Posted by TracyG

...I installed the Autowbrake after market. ... is about the only brake that will work with a 4-pin hook up and is powered through your car light power line....

The AutowBrake controller requires a very small amount of ~12 volt current from the brake light circuit so it knows when you are braking.

It also requires a much larger current from the tow vehicle to actually power the magnet that activates the brakes.

These are separate connections to the AutowBrake controller.

While it is possible to get both brake power and brake light signal from the lights circuit (and it might work OK for you), this is not the recommended way to do it for the following reasons:

1. Using the running lights to power the brakes means that if you forget to turn on the running lights on the tow vehicle then you will not have working trailer brakes. (See page six of the manual).

2. The substantial additional current draw on the tow vehicle's lighting circuit can cause different problems, including overloading the circuit and again, leaving you without trailer brakes.

Therefore the best practice is to convert the 4-way to a 7-way* with a independent lead to the tow vehicle battery that can safely supply the higher current for the brakes, and do so all of the time (lights on or off).
----

* While only five connections are used, the 7-way is the RV standard.