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Old 09-11-2014, 12:26 PM   #21
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Frank,
some more from etrailer.

Ford Escape Brake Controller | etrailer.com
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Old 09-11-2014, 12:42 PM   #22
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Frank,
Here is a long thread on installing a controller. Allot of fluff but there is some information in it.

Adding tow package? - 2013 / 2014 / 2015 Ford Escape Forum
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Old 09-11-2014, 01:18 PM   #23
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August always seems long to me but had no idea how long it goes on in FL! Jack
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Old 09-14-2014, 06:44 PM   #24
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Folks, take a look at this thread, then please tell me what I did wrong: http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...age-63140.html

I have gone through a baseline analysis with a multimeter and test light. I first established a baseline with the F150, recorded voltages for a number of things, and amps a few places. Went through the same thing with the Escape. Should work, same voltages, continuity in all wiring that requires it. Does not. Drives me nuts. Took the trailer (not using the manufacturer's name anymore, y'all can guess) to MD for the weekend with the F150. Never a hiccup. Thing sucks gas like it's going out of style (it is isn't it?).

There's maybe one of two things left to do on the Escape, but who can I bring it to that knows more than me? Heck, last thing I tried was running a ground direct from the battery, thinking maybe just not good enough ground connection back there. Nope.

More problems too with the trailer. Gonna get a heat gun out and remove the logos soon.

Frank
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Old 09-14-2014, 10:50 PM   #25
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what happened with the trailer?
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All that is gold does not glitter, Not all those who wander are lost; The old that is strong does not wither, Deep roots are not reached by the frost.... J.R.R. Tolkien
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Old 09-15-2014, 12:36 AM   #26
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Frank, since it works on the 150 fine your problem has to be with the other tug and not the trailer. Sure sounds like you've got a loose/corroded connection or ground to me. Doing static tests are fine but things change on the road as everything is moving around. I know nothing of how the computers work in cars now but have heard they may have to be reset or recoded to "see" something added in the system. Wonder if your Ford dealer could put it through a test run to see if your computer is working OK on the towing side. Keep us posted.
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Old 09-15-2014, 04:00 AM   #27
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Frank, since it works on the 150 fine your problem has to be with the other tug and not the trailer. Sure sounds like you've got a loose/corroded connection or ground to me. Doing static tests are fine but things change on the road as everything is moving around. I know nothing of how the computers work in cars now but have heard they may have to be reset or recoded to "see" something added in the system. Wonder if your Ford dealer could put it through a test run to see if your computer is working OK on the towing side. Keep us posted.
Dave, I installed this system on a new car that is garaged day and night. No corrosion I can see. It has not towed the trailer at all as the P3 cannot find trailer brakes. All the Ford garage will do for free is make sure the factory 4 pin works. It does. Next is me opening my wallet for somebody else to figure this out, but who?!?

Frank
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Old 09-15-2014, 04:05 AM   #28
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what happened with the trailer?
Basically, I took it to NC expecting a number of problems to get fixed, and nothing got done Deryk. I still have rusty door hinges, I still have water in the floor of my closet, I still don't have a low water drain, stuff like that. In the meantime I just had to replace the water pump, and my wastewater tank leaks.

Logos are coming off, and don't expect me at any ParkLiner rallies, at least ones that are involved with the company in any way. They ticked the wrong guy off. That trip cost me a lot of money basically just to have the batteries moved. Not worth it in any way you want to figure.

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Old 09-15-2014, 05:13 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by frank_a View Post
Dave, I installed this system on a new car that is garaged day and night. No corrosion I can see. It has not towed the trailer at all as the P3 cannot find trailer brakes. All the Ford garage will do for free is make sure the factory 4 pin works. It does. Next is me opening my wallet for somebody else to figure this out, but who?!?

Frank
Bypass all the factory/computer stuff with the wiring from etrailer as I posted before. The 4 pin does nothing when you are adding brakes. I use the P 2 not the P 3, that may be part of the problem with plug and play working, just saying. When I was looking for a controller I didn't see any advantage using a P3 over a P2. There may be some reason why the P3 is better and a menber or two will chime in.
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Old 09-15-2014, 05:40 AM   #30
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To make a long story short, it still does not recognize the trailer brakes.

Frank
Hi Frank. I'm not sure what you mean by this statement as there is really only one connection between the controller and the trailer brakes. I assume you are saying the controller is not activating the brakes. If I had that problem here's what I would do:

-unplug the plug from the controller.
-there are 4 wires; white, black, red and blue.
-with a voltmeter measure the pins that go to the white and black wires. Is there 12 volts? Check the polarity, black is positive, white negative. That is, red probe on black and black probe on white you see +12.
-finally with red probe on red and black probe on white, step on the brake. You should see +12 volts.

-If all that works plug back in and go to the 7 pin at the back of the vehicle. Measure between the pin with the brake signal (blue) and ground. Now have a helper activate the manual control lever on the controller. You should see a volt although it may not be 12 volts.

Raz
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Old 09-15-2014, 06:12 AM   #31
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Since I believe that you previously said everything worked until the Escape went through a car wash, I wonder if water got into the plug or wiring somewhere. If the Escape saw that as a dead short, I wonder if the onboard computer shut the whole trailer braking anti-sway system down?
Still .... If the 4-pin works .... .??? I would still call the toll free phone number for the etrailer.com folks. Just my $.02 worth. Good luck! :-)


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Old 09-15-2014, 06:19 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by P. Raz View Post
Hi Frank. I'm not sure what you mean by this statement as there is really only one connection between the controller and the trailer brakes. I assume you are saying the controller is not activating the brakes. If I had that problem here's what I would do:

-unplug the plug from the controller.
-there are 4 wires; white, black, red and blue.
-with a voltmeter measure the pins that go to the white and black wires. Is there 12 volts? Check the polarity, black is positive, white negative. That is, red probe on black and black probe on white you see +12.
-finally with red probe on red and black probe on white, step on the brake. You should see +12 volts.

-If all that works plug back in and go to the 7 pin at the back of the vehicle. Measure between the pin with the brake signal (blue) and ground. Now have a helper activate the manual control lever on the controller. You should see a volt although it may not be 12 volts.

Raz
We've done all that, and I kept notes. It still doesn't work. Maybe Dave is right, the P3 is not the way to go. If I wasn't so busy at work, I could play with it more, but even on my days off, life continually interferes!

Frank
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Old 09-15-2014, 06:21 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdickens View Post
Since I believe that you previously said everything worked until the Escape went through a car wash, I wonder if water got into the plug or wiring somewhere. If the Escape saw that as a dead short, I wonder if the onboard computer shut the whole trailer braking anti-sway system down?
Still .... If the 4-pin works .... .??? I would still call the toll free phone number for the etrailer.com folks. Just my $.02 worth. Good luck! :-)


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We took it to the Ford garage and they fixed the problem. It was the 4 pin. I honestly don't remember the Escape working with the brakes. Guess I'll have to go back and look at earlier posts.

The Escape is a nice car to drive, but like my nearly new trailer, has been driving me nuts with problems.

Thanks,

Frank
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Old 09-15-2014, 07:16 AM   #34
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We've done all that, and I kept notes. It still doesn't work.

Frank


Quote:
Originally Posted by frank_a View Post
We took it to the Ford garage and they fixed the problem. It was the 4 pin. I honestly don't remember the Escape working with the brakes. Guess I'll have to go back and look at earlier posts.

The Escape is a nice car to drive, but like my nearly new trailer, has been driving me nuts with problems.

Thanks,

Frank
All within two minutes. Wow
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Old 09-22-2014, 11:08 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by P. Raz View Post
All within two minutes. Wow
I am confused as well - does it work or doesnt it???

Those of us who have been following your attempt to get it up and running want to know please Frank - If its fixed what was the issue? Was the factory 4 pin missing or had a faulty modular or something like that?
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Old 09-22-2014, 11:40 AM   #36
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It is unfigureoutable (new word I just made up - whadya think?). I don't know what else to say. Gonna have to hire somebody to assess it and tell me where I went wrong, and that will be interesting, as usually people come to me for help with stuff like this. Hours and hours of diagnosis, swapping parts, etc, have only made me more and more frustrated. That, plus endless check engine lights on this car have made me VERY unhappy we bought it.

Frank
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Old 09-22-2014, 12:38 PM   #37
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Thanks
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Old 09-22-2014, 12:56 PM   #38
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Thanks
Sorry, I was just in the process of deleting my post, upon rereading it and anticipating your reaction. Wish you lived close, I would be glad to help.
I know things like this can be frustrating.
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Old 09-22-2014, 01:18 PM   #39
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Thanks Floyd. I wished you lived close too. Somebody looking over my shoulder would be helpful.

This 7 pin kit was not difficult to install. It took some time to do a nice neat job, but could have been done quick if I wanted. It was certainly easier than wiring my hot rod! I've done all sorts of 12V wiring stuff over the decades (not just trailers, but lots of them too), and have a rolling tool box just for all my 12V stuff. In general I enjoy it.

I've checked continuity of wires (especially the brake wire), made sure I had a good ground, checked voltages at pins on the connectors behind the controller and the 7 pin, and just cannot figure it out.

Yes, eventually it will go to somebody else, but I wonder how they will do. I just about have to take it to an RV place that has something with a 7 pin to test it. My plug-in testers do not work with this Escape.

My F150 was so easy to hook up (plug & play). My wife is well aware of my interest and skills in 12V stuff, and agrees that we need to look at another vehicle at some point, and in the meantime, just keep using my fuelish F150.

I have other reasons for not liking the Escape at this point (check engine lights and not even 20,000 miles on it). This 7 pin thing though is very frustrating.

Frank
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Old 09-22-2014, 09:27 PM   #40
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Frank, I think I mentioned this in a prior thread somewhere, but I had a 7-pin receptacle that drove me crazy - it would work, then didn't, then work, then didn't. I did all kinds of single wire-by-wire testing, and all tests were good. Finally took it to a trailer repair shop with high-dollar testers, and they discovered that I definitely problem - thankfully a low-dollar one to fix. The internal plastic housing of the receptacle was broken such that, some times, when you plugged the trailer plug into the receptacle, contacts were made properly = work. But sometimes, the trailer plug would simply push the electrical contact in the broken section deeper into the receptacle rather than make contact = not work. The trailer shop simply replaced the broken receptacle with a new one and the problem was solved. I hope your problem is as simple as that. Frustrating to find, but once found, easy (and relatively cheap) to fix.
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