ParkLiner Options - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-17-2013, 03:03 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo View Post
My Escape has a Suburban water heater ( propane only ). I don't have to go outside to light it. I flip a switch inside.
Spark ignition for the water heater...that sounds nice.
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Old 10-17-2013, 03:12 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by k8t View Post
Huck-just another FYI about galley work space...

My husband mentioned to Chandler that he was considering building a cutting board that could nest flatly into the kitchen sink, as another way to add work space to the galley. Good news is that, according to Chandler, there's one already commercially available at places like Campworld that fit the exact dimensions of the Parkliner sink. Sounds like a pretty standard item available for rv's. We look forward to looking into that!
Escape trims up the counter top cutout for the kitchen sink into a cutting board that fits perfectly inside the sink. This is provided standard with all of their trailers. Maybe you could request that PL do something similar?

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Old 10-17-2013, 05:48 PM   #23
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I would suggest a couple of 12 volt outlets. It allows us to plug a small inverter 150 watt cigarette lighter sty;e inverter into them and run our television or other light draw AC devices. 12 volt outlets should be inexpensive additions.

I like AC outlets because it's not the number you have but where they are. We now have AC outlets that have USB ports built in beside the AC outlet that allow us to charge our electronic devices without all those little chargers.

The cost of a propane/electric water heater sounds wrong. It only costs $65 to make a propane only water hwater electric also.

I believe a freezer's a waste, particularly if you're driving any distance unless you're running the fridge while you drive. We have a small fridge and find it adequate. We would take more refigerator space over a freezer.

AC adequacy turns out to be personal. For us we just want to drop the humidity and find our home AC adequate to 90 degrees.

Dead bolt is again a personal choice. For us it's not necessary. We had one on our motorhome but it used two different keys...

Floor material.. again a personal choice, we've had both and like them both. It's such a small space cleaning of either is easy. Since we don't wear footware in the trailer we like the carpet.
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Old 10-17-2013, 06:01 PM   #24
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Last trip with my buddy for fishing, we headed into the Skagit River Valley. We were there for six days.
I stocked up the freezer with a previously frozen chicken ( cut in half ), steaks, hamburger, pineapple skewers, frozen peas and corn. I don't run with the fridge turned on. It was a four hour trip in to camp. To head back out for groceries would be a two hour return trip on rough road.
Meat had to be removed from the freezer to the fridge to thaw ( helping to keep the fridge cold ). Often, it had to be left on a counter or in water to thaw further.
The fridge/freezer is 5.0 cu. ft. leaving plenty of room for beer.
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Old 10-17-2013, 08:21 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by k8t View Post
My husband mentioned to Chandler that he was considering building a cutting board that could nest flatly into the kitchen sink, as another way to add work space to the galley. Good news is that, according to Chandler, there's one already commercially available at places like Campworld that fit the exact dimensions of the Parkliner sink.
Each bowl of my Fiber Stream's kitchen sink is 14" x 10" and I found covers at a local RV store years ago.

Click image for larger version

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Camping World now has the Camco Sink Mate which is slightly different.
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:10 PM   #26
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Greetings and hope you enjoy fine tuning your PL build.

As many have stated...
Absolutely get the dead bolt. Our PL#35 came with that option and it was a high quality matching schlange door set (locking handle + dead bolt).

Glad to see you picked the MaxxFan. Like many on the forum, it's hard to say enough great things about that fan!!

12 volt receptacles... additional sockets will be singles. We had one extra installed on the street side dinette front facing side of rear seat (hope that makes sense!) Anyway, it comes in handy if you happen to want to do some 12v item at the side dinette.

ALSO a 12 volt note...(this is if you are not plugged in to AC power) If you do some reading on running a laptop from an inverter>standard wall unit you would probably find that if you went to a place like Best Buy and picked up a 12volt equivalent to the charger for your laptop that it would be more efficient use of battery power. They are affordable and then you are using the 12 volts directly to run the laptop (that will then convert to whatever appropriate amp/voltage your unit is looking for). We also have several 12volt to USB sockets i've installed so we can keep our Tablets/Phones/portable-devices charged.

OH, another easy change that has been GREAT!! Having Chandler swap out the sliding galley window with the same hing-at-top window (all weather design) that is used in the Shower area. We can open the galley window in pouring rain while cooking....the stock slider? Not so much!

Here is a pic of the side window swap:

The stock window in galley area would be the door's window turned on its side. And if you want privacy???...but the window in shower is already glazed for privacy!

Cheers,
Thom
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Old 10-17-2013, 10:56 PM   #27
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[QUOTE=Brian M. in NY;425623]
We had a double 12v receptacle installed in the cabinet over the stove and use it for the battery monitor. QUOTE]

Brian, What battery monitor do you have? Happy with it? Any particular features that need to be considered? Dale
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Old 10-18-2013, 12:36 AM   #28
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Huck, we don't have a Parkliner, but have done extensive changes to our Scamp. The water heater I installed can be turned on/off by a switch inside. We turn it on prior to using and turn it off after the water temp comes up to desired temp. We only have one (very small) 10 pound propane tank, and it usually lasts about 5-6 weeks on the road (usually always off the grid). We have a 2 burner stove and never use the furnace, as a small Coleman Sport Cat heater is more than enough for our 13' Scamp. We have a danfoss style compressor refrigerator/freezer (12 volt only) and a single group 27 battery that is charged by a 100 watt solar panel. We turn the refrigerator on when we leave, and turn it off after we get back home two months later. I installed a 750 Watt Black & Decker inverter to power & charge our lap top & phones. XM radio runs off 12 volt outlet. In 20 years of camping here in the southwest, the Fantastic Fan is all we've needed to stay cool, but we do avoid hot humid areas. I would encourage you to get the 2 battery option, but don't think you would ever need 2 propane tanks. Good luck on your decisions.
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:53 AM   #29
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[QUOTE=War Eagle;425772]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian M. in NY View Post
We had a double 12v receptacle installed in the cabinet over the stove and use it for the battery monitor. QUOTE]

Brian, What battery monitor do you have? Happy with it? Any particular features that need to be considered? Dale
Dale,
Here is a link to our setup which I posted in Thom and Cari's Parkliner Thread. http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post387624 It is very basic as it only gives a voltage reading rather than current drain stats like a Xantrex but then it was less than $15. We had it in our teardrop and moved it to the PL. Sometime in the future I'd like to go with something more sophisticated but this gives me a general idea of what is going on with the battery bank.
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Old 10-18-2013, 08:03 AM   #30
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Thanks everyone for the great help and ideas. I'm close to making my decision.
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Old 10-18-2013, 04:31 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by War Eagle View Post
Brian, What battery monitor do you have? Happy with it? Any particular features that need to be considered? Dale
Yes on everything Brian shared about his easy (& inexpensive) simple battery monitor.

If you want to go crazy like i did you can install a Xantrex. But i would only go that route if you are really OCD (Yes that is an admission of guilt on my part!) on having to know what each electrical component draws and the near-exact health in volts/AH of your batteries.

Here is the > link to the Xantrex install post < on my build thread if interested in more info.

image of install:


Cheers,
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:35 PM   #32
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Does anyone have any specs on the AC unit parkliner uses? It looks like a regular window unit, and I was a bit concerned that there doesnt seem to be a good path for the hot air to escape the rear of it from the photos Ive seen online. If anyone has photos of the back side of the AC unit in the trailer, I would appreciate them.

I almost think one of the low profile coleman mach 8 or polar cub rooftop AC's would be vastly superior for a trailer of this size. (I do most of my camping in the summer in the south, and my old Fleetwood Prowler had a 15,000btu rooftop that worked very well)
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:22 PM   #33
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Matt,

The AC is a Frigidaire FRA052XT7
5,000 BTU Window style unit
Works fine for us.

I attempted to explain the installation in an old post here.

Let me know if you need more information.

Scott
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Old 10-19-2013, 11:31 PM   #34
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Exactly what I was looking for, combined with the photos by Mimi. A little saddened by the rough cut fiberglass surrounding it in the photo, but I can fix that up myself.
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Old 10-20-2013, 03:20 PM   #35
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Dear Huck,

Its alot of $$ extra to add all those. THis will be our third camper and I can tell you a few things we don't use or I will make/add myself. But I am trying to keep my cost down, maybe that isn't an issue for you.

We never use the propane heater. We camp at campgrounds, elec is free, so we use a $20 ceramic plug in heater, works very well and saves you from having to refil your tank.

You can make a cover for the stove alot cheaper. Side table extension thingy for $85 is really small, again easy to make.

Am going to put my own deadbolt in, probably spend less than $40 vs $200.

I saw samples of both flooring options, just go with the standard, its the same material, just different pattern.

Also am going to build custom shelving where the bunk cushions go as we are not getting the bunk option.

Hope that helps.
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Old 10-20-2013, 05:51 PM   #36
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Just something to consider...reselling down the road, and what happens if you end up somewhere and the power goes out? If I wintercamped with power I would bring a ceramic heater to save propane... but not likely for that to happen often.
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Old 10-20-2013, 05:56 PM   #37
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I believe propane should be considered for bug outs... the time you may need your trailer because of what Mother Nature is throwing at you. Loss of power in the dead of winter can make staying in a sticks 'n bricks home very uncomfortable. With a trailer and all the propane appliances you can stay dry, warm and well fed. YMMV
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:27 PM   #38
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Good point Donna! We werent expecting the damage Sandy gave us last year. So its a good thing to have as an escape plan.
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:48 PM   #39
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Power went out for 4 days due to a big windstorm a few years back in mid December. House has gas heating and fireplaces that dont work due to having electric fans. Have a propane furnace in the trailer makes for warm spot to sleep - my neighbours went to hotels.
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:52 PM   #40
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Cool

Ah life on the soggy oregon coast... the NOAA weather station ~2 miles from our RV park clocked 110mph gusts with sustained 70mph+ winds last "Winter Storm" : )

And yes, we can imagine what it would feel like if trying to sleep in a 5th wheel going down the freeway! Crazy thing is the first storm we went through in the rig we barely slept the first night...by day ~4? the wind just rocked us to sleep without any mental stress.

Oh, yea, propane was nice too!
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