Portable Air Conditioner

[Kevin K]

I wonder if this AC would work in a trailer?
http://www.portableacguide.com/unit/Amcor-AF11000E



BTU's: 11,000
EER: 13.3
Cooling power used (watts): 830
Noise level:
Number of fan speeds: 2
Heater: No
Self-evaporating: Yes
Water tank: Non-removable
Moisture removal per day (pints): 60 pints
Non-removable
Timer: 12 hr
Hose type: Single
Size - Volume (cubic feet),
dimensions: 3.13 c.f.
12" x 15" x 30"
Weight: 50 lbs
(22.68 kg) lbs.
Notes: Has remote; Has "Innovative AutoDrain NanoMist Technology"; Has carbon filter; Available in Woodgrain, Silver, or White

[Terry G]

If it's an actual air conditioner then it's going to need someplace to blow the hot air. You would either have to put it in a window or put some sort of exhaust hose to the outside. Otherwise, you're just moving air around and not making your trailer cooler.

[Ricky 4]

The man we bought our Casita from had one in his other camper-he cut a hole in the side for the hose to vent to . His was like the one in the picture but it was white in color. He said preferred it to the window unit.
We bought a window unit because the price was much less.

[Ken C]

I saw one like that in an rv campground. It sat outide and they ran that flexible dryer hose up to the rv window.

[Per Walthinsen]

For my money a single-hose portable airc. is a fraud. It will pull in an equivalent amount of hot air through leaks, because of negative pressure, and pretty much nullify any cooling. Am I wrong, and if so why?

[Joe Z]

I bought a portable air conditioner for my van and it has the single hose that i made a plywood plate to fit in the side window and have to say it works pretty good...... not as good as a regular window ac but close. I also use that shiny silver bubble stuff on the windows which also helps alot on the sunny side of the vehicle. I was down in rock Hill So Carolina last week and it did a fine job in all that humidity.... Mine is 9000 btu's
Joe

[Bruce Thomas]

Per........if its mounted or put somewhere where it has its own air supply it shouldnt be a problem.....i think next to an egg is easiest like the people with the van are doing and into the window...oughta work.
Bruce

[Matt in SV]

For my money a single-hose portable airc. is a fraud. It will pull in an equivalent amount of hot air through leaks, because of negative pressure, and pretty much nullify any cooling. Am I wrong, and if so why?

These single hose portables are generally less efficient than a traditional AC with its condenser coils on the outside, but it's not a total fraud - the portable only needs to exchange enough air outside to cool the condenser. That portion, required to replace the heated air blown out through the back duct will enter the camper uncooled, through vents, or a slightly cracked window, mix and slightly warm the cool air inside. But, the majority of the air gets cooled and recirculated by the unit. Nevertheless, there is this additional loss that you wouldn't experience if the condenser intake was outside, because the condenser intake is robbing some cool air from the interior. It's kind of like the difference between the AC and Max AC settings on your car air conditioner. The portable is always recirculating some air, so you can't get the Max AC effect you'd enjoy with the vent closed.

Also, If you don't duct the hose out somewhere, you're going to have a big heater that blows a little cool air out the front.

Regards,

Matt

[Matt in SV]

Per........if its mounted or put somewhere where it has its own air supply it shouldnt be a problem.....i think next to an egg is easiest like the people with the van are doing and into the window...oughta work.
Bruce

This may be a little better, but there is a similar problem - with the portable located outside, its source is the hot air outside. So, say the AC cools the 100 degree outside air to 70, forces it through a duct to mix with slowly warming air in the camper to maintain 85 degrees, and an equivalent volume of 85 degree air has to get forced out of the camper as displacement. It's wasted.

The conventional, in a recirculating mode, could cool the inside 85 degree air to 65 and blow it back in with no displacement loss, so you'd be able to reach a lower interior average temp like 75 or something, for the same energy input.

Please note that in practical application in an small RV, the portable will probably work just fine. The volume of our little eggs is closer to the size of a traditional home bathroom than the bedrooms these coolers were designed to cool, although our insulation isn't nearly as good. Just be aware you will be exchanging a good portion of air with the outdoors, no matter how you use them. If you're the one paying for the power, the efficiency loss might make a difference. Finally, you are probably not going to be able to get it icy cold in there using a portable, no matter how big it is.

Regards,

Matt

[Scott B.]

How about this one, I am thinking of getting it, it has a hose for the exhaust and air intake on the side now located in my closet I could either let it suck in the air from the trailer which is as it is cooled it we will recool it or I can make it draw air in from outside.

Which method is better ?

[DonDeutsch]

I have just bouoght one this past weekend. I was reluctant to do so after hearing a about low efficiency, but I am VERY reluctant to cut holes in the shell and do not ike window installs. I hope I will be happy with it.

[Joe Z]

This is the portable air conditioner i am using Hair Commercial Cool 9000 btu ..... I am using this right now in a van and does a pretty decent job..... got it down to 73 degrees on a 95 degree humid day....took a while, not as good as a regular window unit and i have the bubble silver stuff on the windows (sunny side) which was an extremely big help (without it not so good).
For ease of use i would buy it again if needed.
Joe

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=...ed=0CDEQ8wIwAg#

[Al V]

Did it on my trillium 1300
it was a failure for the most part. mainly because while it exhauted hot air and mositure outside it was drawing hot mosit air inside thure window, door , ac connection ect . it did cool trillum a little very little and only felt good if you where right over the unit , kind of like haveing to sleep on a block of ice.
just for reference i tried it in my insulated garage 14 x 30 and it seemed to work pretty good there. being well insulated and much larger volume of air seemed to help. it also works well for cooling a room at home when there is a power outage.
if any one want to give it a try i will gladly sell you mine lol

[Aaronon]

Originally Posted by Terry G

If it's an actual air conditioner then it's going to need someplace to blow the hot air. You would either have to put it in a window or put some sort of exhaust hose to the outside. Otherwise, you're just moving air around and not making your trailer cooler.

No, in fact, there are ACs that do not require hoses. They have an evaporation system, you only need to drain them regularly in wet weather. I have one on RV, which is very convenient and does not take up space. It makes us feel comfortable when traveling in summer.^ _ ^
Look this: https://www.gearhunder.com/best-port...r-conditioner/