Public Opinion Sought on Vintage 1972 13í Scamp Restoration - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-09-2021, 08:08 AM   #21
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Name: Pat
Trailer: Scamp 19
Enchanted Mountains of Western New York State on the Amish Trail in Cattaraugus County!
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Originally Posted by FRED SMAILES View Post
Theyre selling for big dollars now.
Put the labour in to make it the best it can be and let it go.
Every dollar you put in is one more you'll want to get out and
will narrow your market,,, IMO.
Fred
Labor and lots of love and money!!!
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Old 10-09-2021, 08:32 AM   #22
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Name: bill
Trailer: 2013 Escape 19; 1977 Trillium 1300
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Doing something for FINANCIAL RETURN is a lot different than doing something for pleasure/pride/enjoyment.

I have taken on projects, restoring vintage homes for example, solely for the latter. Decisions I have made along the way, have reduced profitability (financial return). Fortunately, the increase in value on housing has bailed me out. But the flipper down the street from me made a lot better decisions financially. A project done for enjoyment will not garner the best financial returns, and a project done to maximize returns tends to be done to a different (lower) standard.

In the case of vintage bikes, rather than lower my standards, I either sell them as is or for parts. The bikes I have restored tend to go to family and friends, typically break even or worse.

I am an amateur "picker". I buy and sell stuff for financial return and for fun. My best pick this year was a plaque out of a McDonalds restaurant. You can make decent money as a picker, not job type income, but not bad either.
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Old 10-09-2021, 09:05 AM   #23
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Name: Jon
Trailer: 2008 Scamp 13 S1
Arizona
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I vote to clean and restore to original layout.

Replace carpet with vinyl.. If upholstery is worn or stained, consider new covers from Scamp. The current solids blend well with a vintage interior.

If the Ensolite looks dingy, clean, caulk seams, and paint.

Get the stove clean and working. I’d try to save the 3-way fridge, but if it’s kaput, you might find a used take-out for cheap. Obviously, safety check the whole LP system. Add safety detectors.

Update electrical as needed for the 21st century, including LEDs, a new power center with smart charger, and a charging port. No fancy battery, though, just a basic conventional deep cycle.

This is a biggie, and I suppose you could leave it for the buyer, but it looks like it really needs a new axle (with brakes and a modestly increased ride height).

Reseal all windows and vents, Install a new door seal. Replace badly weathered exterior fittings.

Remove oxidation and apply a couple coats of a good marine wax to the exterior.
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Old 10-09-2021, 09:28 AM   #24
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Name: John
Trailer: Scamp
Wisconsin
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
I vote to clean and restore to original layout.

Replace carpet with vinyl.. If upholstery is worn or stained, consider new covers from Scamp. The current solids blend well with a vintage interior

If the Ensolite looks dingy, clean, caulk seams, and paint.

Get the stove clean and working. I’d try to save the 3-way fridge, but if it’s kaput, you might find a used take-out for cheap. Obviously, safety check the whole LP system. Add safety detectors.

Update electrical as needed for the 21st century, including LEDs, a new power center with smart charger, and a charging port. No fancy battery, though, just a basic conventional deep cycle.

This is a biggie, and I suppose you could leave it for the buyer, but it looks like it really needs a new axle (with brakes and a modestly increased ride height).

Reseal all windows and vents, Install a new door seal. Replace badly weathered exterior fittings.

Remove oxidation and apply a couple coats of a good marine wax to the exterior.
Thank you very much for your detailed response. This is generally the direction I was heading but I am not the end-user of this sweet little camper. It’s not going to be a brand new camper but it’s going to be damn good for the fact that it’s nearly 50 years old and doesn’t look like every other belly button camper being pulled on the road or those sitting cutely in a campground.

Even though this little guy sits low I will end up putting a new axle on it from Dexter which will hopefully accept the brakes that are on it.

The stove will be replaced ( moisture won the battle on the metal surfaces over the years..) and the fiberglass cabinet reinforced. The fridge works on 110v, I have yet to try it on 12v or propane. The ensolite is cleaning up well, but will be painted to brighten it all up nicely. I’ll install LED Fixtures, but overall the vintage vibe will stay intact..

Thanks again and I’ll share project pics as I go with getting this little gem back in “ready to camp mode”
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Old 10-09-2021, 06:17 PM   #25
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If the fridge works on 110V, the basic cooling loop is intact, and you should be able to make it work on the other power sources with minimal cost. One small thing to double check is whether the back of the fridge is fully sealed to the shell to prevent exhaust from seeping into the cabin when running on LP.
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Old 10-09-2021, 08:46 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by Jon in AZ View Post
If the fridge works on 110V, the basic cooling loop is intact, and you should be able to make it work on the other power sources with minimal cost. One small thing to double check is whether the back of the fridge is fully sealed to the shell to prevent exhaust from seeping into the cabin when running on LP.
Thanks for the comment!

I agree with the refrigerator remarks-hopefully when I put it back in place-I can get it to function on all settings. 👍 as far as the venting-Iíll certainly be doing better with that than the crap job Scamp did 50 years ago with two pieces of scrap fiberglass duck taped to the inner cabinet and riveted to the top of the refrigerator casing! 😂
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Old 10-11-2021, 04:32 PM   #27
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Name: Rikki
Trailer: 1971 Scamp 13'
SC
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What did you use to wash the camper? It looks great! I am currenting restoring a 1971 13' Scamp but have not yet touched the outside. I scrubbed the elephant, caulked the seams, primered with Gripper primer, painted two coats with a Sherman Williams anti-mold and mildew paint (white), installed new curtain rods, made some adorable curtains, painted and installed new hardware on the cabinet doors, installed a battery volt indicator, installed a USB outlet that is wired to the batter, new battery, new brackets on the gravel shield, new propane tank, & new remote control roof fan. I still plan to paint the fibergalss benches, closet, and kitchen area with Tough as Tile bathub paint, replace all of the snap caps, make new covers for the cushions, install new bunk posts,& install new door weather stripping and window seals. All the paint is white and the hardware is black. It will be neural enough for anyone to change. I plan to use it for a bit then sell.
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Old 10-12-2021, 05:49 AM   #28
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Trailer: Scamp
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Originally Posted by Rikki D. View Post
What did you use to wash the camper? It looks great! I am currenting restoring a 1971 13' Scamp but have not yet touched the outside. I scrubbed the elephant, caulked the seams, primered with Gripper primer, painted two coats with a Sherman Williams anti-mold and mildew paint (white), installed new curtain rods, made some adorable curtains, painted and installed new hardware on the cabinet doors, installed a battery volt indicator, installed a USB outlet that is wired to the batter, new battery, new brackets on the gravel shield, new propane tank, & new remote control roof fan. I still plan to paint the fibergalss benches, closet, and kitchen area with Tough as Tile bathub paint, replace all of the snap caps, make new covers for the cushions, install new bunk posts,& install new door weather stripping and window seals. All the paint is white and the hardware is black. It will be neural enough for anyone to change. I plan to use it for a bit then sell.
Good morning!

I washed it with a mix of Simple Green and water, combined with some Krud Cutter grease remover. It really did the trick while scrubbing manually with a firm plastic bristle brush. It took awhile-but not as long as the years that it took for all the filth to grow on it.

It sounds like youíre doing much of the same as I am, however I decided that Iíll be giving it a new gelcoat. I like trying new things and have read enough and seen videos of boat restorers handling the task-so itíll get a fresh and bright white finish. Iím also adding new subfloor from front to back-not that it was needed, but the wood was dry and fresh 5/8Ē flooring will add a great breath of life as well as repairing the aging fiberglass bonded areas.

Iíll gelcoat the interior furniture as well as I trust itíll be more durable than paint on those fiberglass surfaces.
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Old 10-13-2021, 04:40 PM   #29
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Name: Gigi
Trailer: 1972 Lovebug 1970 Eriba Puck
Minnesota & Arizona
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Great job...Honor the Egg

Following with interest. I like your commitment to good structure and best materials. It's what I do with my home renovations. I wish you all good luck in your new endeavour.
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Old 10-13-2021, 08:36 PM   #30
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Trailer: Scamp
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Following with interest. I like your commitment to good structure and best materials. It's what I do with my home renovations. I wish you all good luck in your new endeavour.
Thank you-I think there’s more than one way to do things-but some are certainly better than others and the latter is the direction I’m leaning..

I’m attaching some photos of another Scamp problem area-the door. When these doors have windows and other holes even for the handles cut into them, the core is allowed to get wet if not properly sealed (maintained). Scamp did not drill any holes in the bottom for them to seep out any moisture which leads to heavy, wet innards that then leads to rotting wood and fiber board as the upper half is manufactured with. The doors routinely will lose their shape and when you add all that weight to a small surface area where the hinges connec, the shell of the door and body suffer-and crack/break. In my case-the door shape was ok and the body had only separated at the step/entry. I cut out the upper framed fiberglass and replaced the fiber “crap” with 3/8” plywood. Short of fully encasing the plywood in waterproof fiberglass or creating a lightweight skeleton of aluminum or a honeycomb structure internally-this is an upgrade. I Re-glassed the original inner panel in place and drilled two 5/16” holes in the bottom of the lower door for drainage. This should keep the door in shape for 50 more years.

(The access for the window will be cut back out an I’ll end up glassing the edges to better prolong the doors lifespan and hopefully keep water out).
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