Question about the Scamp flooring

[TWelch]

This is an information-seeking question, only. I do not want to start an argument and I am not trying to denigrate Scamp. I am trying to make a well-informed decision regarding which fiberglass travel trailer to pursue.

My question:
How many of you Scamp owners have had to replace/renovate the flooring in your Scamp? I am wondering what repercussions the wood content in the flooring may have. . . .

I know the Casita does not have any wood in the flooring, but I prefer the wider aisle in the Scamp. . .

I love the Lil Snoozy but I am looking at the price difference. . . and wondering if I will ever find a used one. . .

Thanks in advance for your input. I value the knowledge found in this forum.

Tonie and Abel
(I tried the search option, but couldn't get it to give me what I wanted.)

[Jon in AZ]

Both Scamp and Casita have a wood subfloor. Scamp protects the underside with a coating of fiberglass resin. Casita protects the bottom with a fiberglass underbelly. It is thin and non-structural. From a floor rot standpoint, there is little advantage either way, since most rot is caused by water infiltration from above. Floor rot is not uncommon on older trailers of either type.

A few manufacturers completely encase the structural wood in fiberglass above and below- Trillium and Escape (I think). That approach does seem to reduce the likelihood of floor rot, but it can still happen- cracks or screw holes in the top of the fiberglass can admit water- and when it does, it is a more complex repair.

Right now the only manufacturers that have completely eliminated wood in the floor (substituting structural honeycomb fiberglass) are Oliver, Lil Snoozy, and Happier Camper.

[TWelch]

Thanks, Jon. I had no idea there was wood in the Casita flooring as well.

Tonie

[LyleB]

One more point, meant to negate concerns over the Scamp floor, not denigrate the Casita, is that since water damage occurs in both, having the underside of the Scamp floor visible and accessible for evaluation, can be an asset.

Plus, if the time comes (as it has for me) to repair a small section of floor, it seems the accessibility of the Scamp is again an advantage.

[Glenn Baglo]

Escape deals with leaks this way:

In the event of a water leak or condensation build-up, there are areas in the bottom shell designed to channel water through the drain holes to the outside.

[TWelch]

Lyle, that is great to know. . .

Thanks

[TWelch]

Originally Posted by Glenn Baglo

Escape deals with leaks this way:

In the event of a water leak or condensation build-up, there are areas in the bottom shell designed to channel water through the drain holes to the outside.

Glenn, the Escape looks wonderful. It kills me that its weight (17 is above my vehicle's capacity (Odyssey van = 3500). . . . I just ran the conversion rate for the CAD -> Am $$, and it comes out actually less than the Lil Snoozy. . . . Big sigh. . . .

Thanks,
Tonie

[TWelch]

. . .and I have no idea why that emoticon came up. . . I typed in 17' in parentheses!

Tonie

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by TWelch

Glenn, the Escape looks wonderful. It kills me that its weight (17 is above my vehicle's capacity (Odyssey van = 3500). . . .

Are you sure? Here's what the data says (click to enlarge):

[TWelch]

Oh, my goodness! I would love for this to work out!

I was looking at the website chart at:

The 17 Foot Escape

for the "Gross Vehicle Weight Rating" listed in the table. . .

What does that mean?


Thanks for the help,
Tonie

[Glenn Baglo]

Gross vehicle is how much you can load it to.
My Escape 17B weighs about 3,200 # at most, with a 325# tongue weight. I tow it with a RAV4, which has tow/tongue of 3,500/350.

[TWelch]

Glenn,
Thanks! That makes a difference!

[Jon in AZ]

Tonnie, you may be confusing GVW (gross vehicle weight), which is the total weight of a vehicle or trailer as actually loaded, with GVWR (gross vehicle weight rating), which is the manufacturer's upper limit on the most it can weigh. The column labeled "TOTAL" in the chart I attached shows gross trailer weights. All are below your vehicle's tow rating, and only one even comes close.

The tongue weights in the chart are pretty variable, and a couple exceed your 350 pound rating. That tells me you would have to pay attention to where you store stuff in the trailer as well as how much stuff you bring. You want 10-12% of total weight on the hitch for stable towing.

One other factor needs to be considered. How many people and how much cargo will you carry in the vehicle? If you plan to load up the vehicle, you cannot pull as heavy a trailer. Things like axle weight ratings and gross combined weight ratings (total weight of vehicle plus trailer) come into play.

[TWelch]

Ron, thanks so much for the info. I am scrutinizing and absorbing, and will be using all this. . . . I am sure my van will be loaded. . .

I really appreciate the explanations and help.

Tonie

[Jon in AZ]

Originally Posted by TWelch

...I am sure my van will be loaded.

That may become an issue, and not just for the Escape 17. From what I can tell, the Lil Snoozy is similar in weight. Casita 16s and Scamp 16s are a little lighter, but could still be a problem.

Tow ratings typically only assume two people and minimal cargo. My Honda Pilot has a chart in the owner's manual showing how the tow rating decreases as you add more people (or equivalent cargo). You might check to see if your owner's manual has something similar.

[TWelch]

Thanks, Jon. I am imagining that at most it would be my husband and me and a large dog as far as occupancy goes. . . .Since my dog weighs over 110 lbs., I count him as an occupant. . . I will go get my Odyssey book out and check out that info for my van.

Thanks again,
Tonie

[stevebaz]

My 1987 Scamp 13 still has its original floor and sponge back carpet flooring. I am at least the third owner. The oriented strand wood sub-floor was coated on top by Scamp when built. The street side of the flooring is un-coated which is a good thing. If the wood gets wet it can dry out instead holding moisture between layers and forming dry rot. If your diligent with dealing with moisture issues you will have no problem with the Scamp flooring. Getting the floor wet is not an issue. letting it stay wet and soaking in is a big issue. Ignoring leaking openings in the shell or leaking water lines or holding tanks is a disaster. Allowing liquids to freeze in your trailer and damaging systems and then after it thaws out and leaks inside the trailer you come to use the trailer several months later your going to get really upset. Its no different than the home you live in. Spill something on your hard wood floors you wipe it up immediately no harm no foul same in your trailer.

What Scamp is using now and how its prepared is probably a little different than they did 30 years ago.

[TWelch]

Thanks, Steve. I appreciate the input. Common sense told me that there wouldn't be so many happy Scamp owners out there if there was a major problem. I learned there was wood in the flooring years ago, yet never heard much about it until lately, when the topic was brought up again. Since I know I am probably not up to tackling a real problem, like replacing a floor, I thought I needed to find out more about it all. And though nothing stays the same, I am encouraged by what I have learned in the discussion today. . .
Thanks again for the help.
Tonie

[Tonnie]

Hi Tonie,

My name is Tonnie and I've been asking a lot of questions on this site too. This may get confusing!

Tonnie (nickname for Tondra)

[TWelch]

Hi, Tonnie! It could get indeed confusing! My "Tonie" is a diminutive of "Toinette" - - lots easier to say, and spell (for most people)!

Tonie