Shaking Class A Envy - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-03-2019, 03:01 PM   #41
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Its when you are over 65 foot long, like my friends with a 40 foot class A, about 6 foot of hitch, then a 20 foot pickup truck (TOAD) behind them.

I have yet to have seen a Cracker Barrel that could handle such length, without unhitching the TOAD first.

Everything has its pluses and minuses. If I had the room and the $$$, I'd probably have a fleet of them: Class A, Class B, trailer, etc.

One thing for SURE, if I was set on a Class A, then I would get one. The Class A with multiple tip outs are incredibly roomy.
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Old 03-03-2019, 03:25 PM   #42
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Dolly towing, not sure about flat towing, means no backing up. Or at least not more than 10 feet or so. This means a lot more planning before making any turns into gas stations, restaurants, etc. It also means selecting a towed car that can be pulled along without lubrication problems caused by the engine not running as the wheels turn for miles. Some are approved for this, I think Subarus are, and some are not. It seems 4WD with a manual transmission is more likely to be approved because you can leave the transmission in gear and the transfer case in neutral (Samurai), for instance. Then, the towed car must have brake lights and running lights like a trailer, so they need to be wired for that and plugged in like a trailer. I've looked at a number of Samurais for sale that had high mileage being towed, but very low engine miles. You might still have to do differential and transmission oil changes, and replace the tires, according to miles, but the engine remains fresh

I saw a funny video about a motorhome guy that forgot to take the towed vehicle out of park and towed it until the rear tires were scraped off. A buddy looked at a Samurai for sale where the driver forgot to take it out of first gear as he hooked up to the motorhome and then drove away. The engine revved up until it disintegrated. A very sad loss of a nice little Sammy.

Towing a vehicle behind a motorhome has greater requirements than towing a trailer.
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Old 03-03-2019, 10:59 PM   #43
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I saw a funny video about a motorhome guy that forgot to take the towed vehicle out of park and towed it until the rear tires were scraped off. A buddy looked at a Samurai for sale where the driver forgot to take it out of first gear as he hooked up to the motorhome and then drove away. The engine revved up until it disintegrated. A very sad loss of a nice little Sammy.
I had a Sammy tintop that I towed behind my Class A. By the book, they are supposed to be towed in second gear/high range. That's why the extra miles are clocked.
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Old 03-04-2019, 01:06 AM   #44
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I had a Sammy tintop that I towed behind my Class A. By the book, they are supposed to be towed in second gear/high range. That's why the extra miles are clocked.
I don't think that's right. Please check the book. Transmission in second and the transfer case in Neutral is the way I remember it. Otherwise, with the transfer case in High Range, engine in second, the engine will be turning as you tow it. And besides that, the engine would overspeed in second and blow up on the highway. The transfer case is designed such that it can lubricate while in neutral with the input shaft not turning. Putting the transmission in second locks it to the engine. It can't turn in neutral while towing a long distance without damage, so transfer case in High and transmission in neutral won't work.

The speedo runs off the back of the transfer case, as I recall, so yes, the miles keep adding up as the driveshaft turns and the engine doesn't.
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Old 03-04-2019, 02:11 AM   #45
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I don't think that's right. Please check the book. Transmission in second and the transfer case in Neutral is the way I remember it. The speedo runs off the back of the transfer case, as I recall, so yes, the miles keep adding up as the driveshaft turns and the engine doesn't.
John, you are correct, neutral it is. Wish I could look at the manual but it went with the Sammy when I sold it. Sure did a double take and reread the towing instructions a few times before the first time I towed it as it just seemed so wrong, in gear?
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Old 03-04-2019, 01:00 PM   #46
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Dave,

Me too. That seemed weird at first.

I've only towed mine a couple of times, and those were behind my Ram.
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Old 03-05-2019, 01:24 AM   #47
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Oh happy day! Click image for larger version

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Old 03-05-2019, 01:26 AM   #48
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Thank you again for all the valuable insight.
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Old 03-05-2019, 08:41 AM   #49
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Roger,

This was an interesting post. Could you expand on the part I quoted below? I am interested because I have no experience with towing a vehicle (toad), but figured that towing a travel trailer gave us the most flexibility and convenience to unhitch and visit local destinations with our tow vehicle.
Sure... I'm not sure what questions you have, but my towed is a Jeep JKU. It is effortless to hitch up. You drive the jeep up to the rear of the moho, attach the towing arms that always remain attached to the moho, (there's no precision alignment required as with a ball and hitch) attach the electrical pigtail, make sure the parking brake is released and the transfer case is in neutral, and drive away. No jacks, no equalizer hitch... it literally takes three minutes and can be done anywhere. I've left the motorhome in parking lots and gone sight-seeing in the Jeep.

I always have 110 A/C with the generator. I don't have to plan trips from campground to campground for overnights. I stop when I want, pretty much anywhere I want... and eat, nap, or overnight and use all of the appliances including the A/C whenever I want.

It's just a really convenient way to travel that allows me to be less constrained in my options.

Did I answer your questions?
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Old 03-05-2019, 08:54 AM   #50
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Dolly towing, not sure about flat towing, means no backing up. Or at least not more than 10 feet or so. This means a lot more planning before making any turns into gas stations, restaurants, etc. It also means selecting a towed car that can be pulled along without lubrication problems caused by the engine not running as the wheels turn for miles. Some are approved for this, I think Subarus are, and some are not. It seems 4WD with a manual transmission is more likely to be approved because you can leave the transmission in gear and the transfer case in neutral (Samurai), for instance. Then, the towed car must have brake lights and running lights like a trailer, so they need to be wired for that and plugged in like a trailer. I've looked at a number of Samurais for sale that had high mileage being towed, but very low engine miles. You might still have to do differential and transmission oil changes, and replace the tires, according to miles, but the engine remains fresh

Towing a vehicle behind a motorhome has greater requirements than towing a trailer.
You're making some assumptions that are not in evidence.

Yes, you need to select a vehicle that can be towed 4-down, or have a vehicle modified to do so if it's not set up that way from the factory. I had a Toyota FJ Cruiser that had to be dolly-towed and STILL required the rear driveshaft to be dropped because of the center differential. Genuinely a poor choice. I traded it in on the Jeep. Like any other decision, you want to do your homework first.

And yes, the rear driveshaft, rear differential and tires still rotate, but none of the rest of the drivetrain is affected by towing. On any modern vehicle with an electronic odometer, the miles do not register.

I paid less to have the Jeep set up for towing four-down than many folks pay to have their tow vehicle set up to tow a trailer... I bought the like-new Blue Ox tow bar setup used for $100. It cost another $120 to have the $25 wiring harness installed in the Jeep, and I bought the tow bracket from Amazon warehouse for $150 and had it installed for $100. The Jeep is towed with the transfer case in neutral. It doesn't really matter what gear the transmission is in, but since mine is a six-speed manual, I usually leave it in 4th or 5th just to keep it from turning at all.

My super-C built on a Chevy Kodiak chassis is 32'; about the longest I'd want. I towed a 34' Airstream tri-axle with an Excursion and it was significantly more of a PITA to get in and out of places with than the Born Free and the Jeep. I've driven in LA traffic with the Born Free and Jeep and just had no issues at all. This is truly a case where the perception is far more onerous than the practice itself.

I'm not preaching against towing a trailer by any means... it's just that after having towed travel trailers for some forty years, I find that driving a Super-C motorhome and a 4-down towed is just a significantly more simple, comfortable, and better solution for the way I travel. YMMV.
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Old 03-07-2019, 11:10 AM   #51
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It's just a really convenient way to travel that allows me to be less constrained in my options.

Did I answer your questions?
Yes, thanks Roger. I don't think I'll ever quit trying to learn and explore other options even though what we are doing now seems to be working well for us, so this was helpful.
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Old 03-08-2019, 07:50 AM   #52
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The OP seems to be vacillating between two very different options: a smaller molded fiberglass trailer that can be towed with his Tacoma, so pretty much 17’ and under, versus a c.30’ Class A in the same price range, which he indicates is $10-15K.

You’ll never convince me that a $15K Class A is likely to be anything but a money pit.

One breakdown on the road with a tow and repair at an unknown shop far from home could get really expensive in a hurry, and you're at their mercy. I don't think an emergency budget of $5K is unreasonable at all. Doesn't mean it will happen, but you have to be prepared. $10K... maybe not. At that point- a catastrophic drivetrain failure in an older motorhome- you'd probably dump it for salvage and take a rental home.

A Class C is a better motorhome alternative- more options for repair if needed- but in this price range, you’re likely looking at ten-year-old units and older on gas cutaway vans. Have a mechanic check the condition of the drivetrain. Long periods of sitting are hard on a motor vehicle.

I still think the molded trailer is the best option, since the OP already has a nice, reliable tow vehicle. Whether he and his wife will be comfortable in a small space is something only they can answer.

Biased? Guilty. Ludicrous? Not at all, I think, in the context of the OP’s question.
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Old 03-08-2019, 09:45 AM   #53
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Oh happy day! Attachment 128194
I was unable to see what the envelope had in it, so am unable to rejoice with you two. Can you clarify please?
Happy Trails
Dave & Paula
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Old 03-08-2019, 09:59 AM   #54
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I was unable to see what the envelope had in it, so am unable to rejoice with you two. Can you clarify please?
Happy Trails
Dave & Paula
Guessing it's immigration papers! Woohoo!
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