Tow Vehicle Fuel Consumption - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

 Fiberglass RV Tow Vehicle Fuel Consumption

03-27-2008, 02:17 PM   #21
Senior Member

Trailer: Bigfoot 25 ft / Dodge 3500HD 4X4 Jake Brake
Posts: 7,316
Quote:
 About the milage on your Dodge diesel. My brother first bougt a Dodge V-8 Hemi as a TV for his RV (32 ft. stick built). After 3 months at 8-9 MPG (55 MPH) he took it back and got the very same truck with a diesel engine, I don't know which Model. His MPG went up to 13-14. He thinks that's pretty good.
That sounds about right for the size of the trailer being pulled.

 03-27-2008, 05:09 PM #22 Senior Member   Trailer: Quantum-5 5th Wheel 1980 Posts: 176 Not to make any point but I also have a 35FT diesel pusher with a turbo 5.9 cummings and a 6 speed transmision. I get an average of between 11 and 12 MPG. When I pull a trailer with a 3.9 Dakota I average about 14 MPG.
03-27-2008, 06:47 PM   #23
Senior Member

Trailer: 1996 13 ft Scamp
Posts: 471
Quote:
 Has any one towed with a small engine Toyota Tacoma 2wd? Reason I ask is I have a friend that drives super fast (130 km/h) which is about 80 MPH towing a 13' boler and claims that it hardly affects his fuel economy. I'm skeptical of his claims but would love to know if there anyone out there with a Toyota tundra 2wd 2.4L engine and what they are getting. Cheers Russ
For the last 2 1/2 years I have been towing with an 05 Tacoma, manual transmission, 2.7 L 4 cyl.. The worst mileage I ever experienced was a trip to Arizona with my 603 pond ATV in the back of the truck and towing my 13' Scamp. I averaged 19 mpg for the trip. I am one of those that drives with the flow of traffic.
With just my Scamp I average 21 mpg. I live in the Mts. so just usual driving I get about 24 or 25 mpg.
This was my 7th Toyota. I say was because I was by a Toyota dealership today and they had one 07 Tacoma left. I made them a stupid offer and they accepted so now I have a new truck with an automatic transmission instead of a manual to break in.

You can't beat a Toyota!
John

 03-27-2008, 06:58 PM #24 Senior Member     Trailer: Scamp Posts: 3,072 With the big diesel pickups, I suspect that the rear end ratio has a LOT to do with mileage. A friend bought one a while back to tow a mid-sized trailer, but he's the kind of guy who likes to have a lot of tow capacity, so he got a low rear end and then was disappointed by his mileage.
03-27-2008, 08:15 PM   #25
Senior Member

Trailer: 2006 (25B21RB) 21 ft Bigfoot / Dodge 2500 Diesel
Posts: 110
Quote:
 With the big diesel pickups, I suspect that the rear end ratio has a LOT to do with mileage. A friend bought one a while back to tow a mid-sized trailer, but he's the kind of guy who likes to have a lot of tow capacity, so he got a low rear end and then was disappointed by his mileage.
Yes, I also believe this to be true. The 4.10 axle ratio over the 3.73 in the Dodge will lower your mileage. In my opinion, the low rear end is certainly not needed pulling the fiberglass trailers.

 03-27-2008, 08:41 PM #26 Junior Member   Trailer: 2005 Casita Spirit Deluxe 16 ft Posts: 6 Has anyone tried using a higher octane fuel while towing. I have a Honda Ridgeline, and according to the Ridgeline forums, people have said that using a higher octane while towing will increase their mileage by 2 mpg. I haven't had the opportunity to try this myself yet (hopefully winter will end soon). Curious if this applies to other vehicles, or if this particular to the Honda VTEC engine. Oh, my Ridgeline gets anywhere from 12 to 17 mpg depending on speed.
 03-27-2008, 10:53 PM #27 Senior Member   Trailer: 2005 13 ft Scamp / 2004 Honda Odyssey Posts: 1,050 Russ, Trailer tire pressure is a loaded question. We have original tires on our 04. They now have about 25,000 miles on them. I can't check their size or brand for quite a while. I think we run around 33 in them, but it has been a long time for that memory. Our 13 loaded weighs around 1500 lbs. I do know that the door side needs air often. We carry one of those 12 v air things, plug it into the cig. lighter and pump the trailer tires often. (we go up and down mountains, and sometimes drive in 100 degrees during the day and hit 60's the next day). Here is a quote from Joy A (has a 13 that weighs over 2,000) who travels a lot and changed her tires: "I changed to a Tow Master 6 ply (B78 -13/6 ST ply rating C). They have now been on for 3 full years logging 20,906 miles. They aren't even showing any wear. The tread depth is 1/4" deep. I keep the tires filled to 45psi. I rotate the tires side to side and pack the wheels at the beginning of each year". Joy has been to Alaska since then so we need an update from her. This post was back in 2005. Maybe she even has different tires now. You could probably do a search on tire pressure to get more info. But, I think this is another personal opinion thing. We all drive with different tire brand and sizes, different weight trailers, and different driving speeds. Some of us have to put up with 10 hours of 100 degree weather. We try to adjust for the driving conditions. Hope this helps you. Nancy
03-28-2008, 01:17 PM   #28
Senior Member

Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 3,072
Quote:
 Has anyone tried using a higher octane fuel while towing. I have a Honda Ridgeline, and according to the Ridgeline forums, people have said that using a higher octane while towing will increase their mileage by 2 mpg. I haven't had the opportunity to try this myself yet (hopefully winter will end soon). Curious if this applies to other vehicles, or if this particular to the Honda VTEC engine. Oh, my Ridgeline gets anywhere from 12 to 17 mpg depending on speed.
Octane alone does not increase power; high octane fuel is associated with powerful engines, but the fuel only allows them to produce more power. Octane is the rating of fuel to NOT ignite under high compression until the spark plug fires; high compression engines need higher octane to function properly.

Notice that when in the mountains, when one would expect to need so-called "high octane" fuel for power, the octane ratings of the fuels are actually lower at the pump. That's because the compression ratios change with altitude....

That said, modern engines are computer controlled and can change the timing of the spark to suit conditions. IF an engine has the compression and computer to take advantage of high-octane fuel, then it might run more effectively or efficiently with that fuel. If not, then the money for the premium fuel (It's called premium because it yields more profit ) has been wasted.

A 2 mpg improvement is worth checking out.

 03-28-2008, 01:47 PM #29 Senior Member   Trailer: Burro 17 ft Widebody Posts: 868 Registry My ancient '99 Odyssey has a computer which automatically changes the timing to take advantage of higher octane. Probably in conjunction with a knock sensor (device used by earlier SAABs and others I seem to recall). Now if I weren't so cheap I would already have tested this out.
 03-28-2008, 07:03 PM #30 Senior Member     Trailer: No Trailer Yet Posts: 4,897 My truck which i have at present time is a Diesel 6.7liter. On my way to Chilliwack going empty i averaged 20 mpg Imperial. That was a distance of 1164KM. Most of this was highway driving and some town driving. On my way back i took the long hilly way and got 16 mpg Imperial pulling trailer. Trip back was 1429.8 Kms Lots of my route was in mountains and at times very slow. I never drove over 100kms/60 mph. Total fuel bill was $483.52 CDN. Total Kms was 2593.8 Kms Cost/Km is about$0.18 __________________ Retired Underground Coal Miner. Served in Canadian Army (1PPCLI)
 03-28-2008, 08:49 PM #31 Senior Member     Trailer: Boler American (#3104) Posts: 554 Registry [quote] Attachment 12305 Nice memories, huh? \$5 for 3 Gallons !!
 03-28-2008, 10:00 PM #32 Senior Member     Trailer: Scamp Posts: 3,072 That was taken in August 2001, on my way back to Washington from Alaska. People were complaining loudly about the cost of fuel at that time, they are complaining now and they will be complaining in the future.
 03-29-2008, 02:56 PM #34 Senior Member     Trailer: Scamp Posts: 3,072 If the bearings are a problem they should be heating up and be detectable. Umm, something wrong with your numbers -- They don't match your conclusion about slowing down, which of course, they should. From WiKi: QUOTE Power The power required to overcome the aerodynamic drag is given by: P_d = \mathbf{F}_d \cdot \mathbf{v} = {1 \over 2} \rho v^3 A C_d. Note that the power needed to push an object through a fluid increases as the cube of the velocity. A car cruising on a highway at 50 mph (80 km/h) may require only 10 horsepower (7.5 kW) to overcome air drag, but that same car at 100 mph (160 km/h) requires 80 hp (60 kW). With a doubling of speed the drag (force) quadruples per the formula. Exerting four times the force over a fixed distance produces four times as much work. At twice the speed the work (resulting in displacement over a fixed distance) is done twice as fast. Since power is the rate of doing work, four times the work done in half the time requires eight times the power. It should be emphasized here that the drag equation is an approximation, and does not necessarily give a close approximation in every instance. Thus one should be careful when making assumptions using these equations. END QUOTE
 03-29-2008, 03:02 PM #35 Senior Member     Trailer: No Trailer Yet Posts: 4,897 OK Pete---Put that in lay mans terms __________________ Retired Underground Coal Miner. Served in Canadian Army (1PPCLI)
 03-29-2008, 03:17 PM #36 Senior Member     Trailer: Scamp Posts: 3,072 Buried in the middle of that is: "the power needed to push an object through a fluid increases as the cube of the velocity. A car cruising on a highway at 50 mph (80 km/h) may require only 10 horsepower (7.5 kW) to overcome air drag, but that same car at 100 mph (160 km/h) requires 80 hp (60 kW)." Double speed, increase power need by eight times! However, that relationship is less true for lower speeds -- I recall reading somewhere that the air drag factor really starts to come into play at something like 45 mph. Maybe someone with a consumption readout in their buggy can look at 45 mph compared to 90 mph and give us some real-world readings (without trailer, of course). A lot might depend on the speed at which the car may have been designed to give the least drag.
03-29-2008, 04:32 PM   #38
Senior Member

Trailer: 2005 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,555
Registry
Quote:
 Umm, something wrong with your numbers -- They don't match your conclusion about slowing down, which of course, they should.
I read your post three or four times before I realized where you thought my numbers were off, then I realized: You were assuming I drove the trailer both ways, so . . .
Leg 1: I drove the Santa Fe northward without a trailer at 65mph (average) and got 24 mpg
Leg 2: I drove the Santa Fe southward with the trailer at 55-60mph and got 17.5 mpg

The loss in gas mileage was not because I slowed down, it was due to hauling 2000 lbs of trailer behind me.

--Peter

03-29-2008, 04:38 PM   #39
Senior Member

Trailer: 2005 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 1,555
Registry
Quote:
Thank you Steve . . . You need to teach a class in Trailer Tires for us!

03-29-2008, 11:22 PM   #40
Senior Member

Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 3,072
Quote:
 I read your post three or four times before I realized where you thought my numbers were off, then I realized: You were assuming I drove the trailer both ways, so . . . Leg 1: I drove the Santa Fe northward without a trailer at 65mph (average) and got 24 mpg Leg 2: I drove the Santa Fe southward with the trailer at 55-60mph and got 17.5 mpg The loss in gas mileage was not because I slowed down, it was due to hauling 2000 lbs of trailer behind me. --Peter
OK! Got it!

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