Wanting to paint my scamp yellow so it resembles the lemon that it is - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-12-2013, 10:57 PM   #1
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Name: Blake
Trailer: 13' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 5
Wanting to paint my scamp yellow so it resembles the lemon that it is

New owner of a 2013 13' and have had issue after issue. Has anyone else had problems or am I alone here?
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:59 PM   #2
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Name: Ron
Trailer: 2008 13' Scamp
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What sort of issues and what has been the factory response?
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:20 AM   #3
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Name: Randy
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...In principle, most RVs would have same basic set up and simple to work with, unless a RV which is modified by amarteur who doesn't want to follow codes. There are plenty of help from knowledged and experienced members in this forum. Just join the discussion and learning from new aspect....
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:43 AM   #4
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Hi Blake, to FiberglassRV, we're glad you're here

There are lots of kind and helpful people here on the forums. If you're having problems, post in the Problem Solving forum and we'll come running.
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:52 PM   #5
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Welcome Blake.

It is kind of hard to relate if we have no idea what your problems are?
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:41 PM   #6
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Name: Blake
Trailer: 13' scamp
Kansas
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I'm not sure if I just had high expectations in buying a brand new camper. For one the interior materials are extremely cheap. My table swelled twice the thickness because of a little moisture. The cabinet doors are basically compressed card board. Every time I take it out something else falls off of fails. Window cranks, fridge latch, stabilizer jack, the list goes on and on. Not a lot of help from the factory. About the only thing I like is the weight, awning and ac. Guess I wasn't looking for answers just wanted to see if its a common thing. Just venting out of frustration...
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:20 PM   #7
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Among the currently available range of moulded fiberglass travel trailers, I believe that Scamp takes the position of longest-established and least expensive. There are material choices which go with that... but some of what you describe is normal for RVs of any size or type.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blake View Post
Every time I take it out something else falls off [or] fails.
This is not what I see other Scamp owners reporting, but that's only my impression from following this forum. "Lemon", meaning a bad example of a product which is usually fine, might fit.

If the Scamp factory is not responding, I note that they are well known for not handling e-mail very well, but they are known for being helpful when contacted by phone. Even by phone, service depends on who you get, so trying again seems like a good idea. Again, this is just my impression from following this forum.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:20 PM   #8
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Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
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If just venting your description works, if you contact Scamp the specifics of what failed (and how) or fell off would be good to have laid out. What Brian says about calling them is true, most of the staff will be most helpful and want to resolve the issues you have if contacted by phone. Be prepared when you reach that person. However they seem to be very challenged by the whole email thing.

Posting the specifics here might lead to solutions being offered by forum members.

On Fridge latch breaking, having small spring loaded bars inside the fridge to hold the grocery items in place might help, these are sold at camper supply places for this purpose. Keeps the stuff in the fridge from slamming into the door and thus might keep a latch from breaking if that was what caused yours to break.

Lots of solutions could be offered if you post the specifics of what is going wrong.
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Old 08-13-2013, 09:48 PM   #9
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Trailer: 7/24/13...ordered a 2014 13 ft Scamp w/Shower/Toilet
Alabama
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Roger...what's your experience on the sewer hose tube in the front. My 13 ft is being built soon and they say they will only mount it on the front above the battery. Donna D has been a good source of info and she stated to not have them drill holes in the trailer and mount it else ware. My question is where? They said it would not fit under the tongue, nor the back bumper...I did get the bike hitch. Also, they said it will hold a 20ft hose but I believe I only get a 10ft one. Is this long enough? Will I need any kind of coupler when I actually use it? Thanks...H
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:59 PM   #10
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Name: Adrian
Trailer: Lance 1985~'Casita de Campo' ~23' 4"~Dinette Slide Previously: Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette, Front Bath
New Mexico
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blake View Post
For one the interior materials are extremely cheap. My table swelled twice the thickness because of a little moisture. The cabinet doors are basically compressed card board. Every time I take it out something else falls off of fails. Window cranks, fridge latch, stabilizer jack, the list goes on and on. Not a lot of help from the factory. About the only thing I like is the weight, awning and ac. Guess I wasn't looking for answers just wanted to see if its a common thing. Just venting out of frustration...
Wow! We have a 2005 16' Side Dinette & front bath/shower. Got it new in 2005.

Not had those problems. But no crank out windows on ours, different fridge but never problem with the latch (that would be from the manufacturer of the fridge), if the rear stabilizer fell off, I believe they are bolted on. Possible someone didn't tighten it on well enough. Some of the axels were welded on upside down at one time. Things can be done wrong.

We had a DC wire crimped where it entered the Scamp from the battery. I was able to find it & mend it. Started blowing fuses. Campground host suggested to check where it entered the body of the Scamp.

Dinette table in back has always been a bed, never noticed it swelling. The side dinette table has never swollen any with moisture.

Never had any complaint about the cabinet doors. Ours are some kind of composite wood, but not cardboard. Much like many of the other makes of stick built RVs. But have had them to open on rough roads. Often because I have too much stuff in the cabinets. We bungee them together through the pulls to keep them closed. Would have liked them to be fiberglass. We painted the inside of the shower door just to keep it more free from water effects when showering.

We chose the green material because it seemed thicker than the other materials in 2005. Still holding up, but just the side dinette seats get used.

We'd ordered ours sight unseen (never been in a Scamp). But did go by the factory before it was made.

But my son picked it up for us & brought it down to Loveland, CO where we meet them.

If wanting wood cabinet doors (& cabinets) one would have to order the Deluxe with wood interiors.

Ours hasn't been perfect, but no great disappointment. I would have liked a wider rear bed & at least 14" tires & wheels...15" would be even better.

Haven't broken any rivets, but have had a couple leak when rains hard. Rear Side Window by bed leaked once as well.

Have had trouble with leaking with the TV antennae a few times.

But other RVs (TT & MH) have had problems as well in the past.

Hope you get the defects worked out. And be able to Enjoy your Rig.

Give them a call, have a list of what has gone wrong with details of what has happened. Photos would be good. Keep calm.

If still too frustrating, I'm sure you will be able to sell it for what you have paid, maybe a little extra. Lot of people want one.

Good Luck with solving the frustration.

Post Edit: I have seen others get or make new doors for the cabinets.

Hman: haven't had any problems with the sew holder on front & still using the original hose. But have a better one since 2006. Can't remember if I bought the connections or if they came with them. It is the 10' one. But never have used it in a campground with sewer hookup.

With Scamp's the grey water drain is in back & the black water drain is in front. I added a sewer cap on the grey water drain with a garden hose fitting so a hose can be use to drain it without having to use the large according sewer hose.

Could the holder be placed on top of the tongue? Or on top of the bumper? Seem it would on the 16'. ???
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Old 08-14-2013, 05:32 AM   #11
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Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
California
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SCAMP Quality Issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blake View Post
I'm not sure if I just had high expectations in buying a brand new camper. For one the interior materials are extremely cheap. My table swelled twice the thickness because of a little moisture. The cabinet doors are basically compressed card board. Every time I take it out something else falls off of fails. Window cranks, fridge latch, stabilizer jack, the list goes on and on. Not a lot of help from the factory. About the only thing I like is the weight, awning and ac. Guess I wasn't looking for answers just wanted to see if its a common thing. Just venting out of frustration...
I don't agree with some of the other posts. On a NEW unit there shouldn't be those kinds of quality & assembly problems and, somehow, as often as they are reported, complaints about Scamp response and q.c issues seem to continue.

That said, because the basic Scamp is at the bottom of the price range for FGRV's there will be some "Cost Reduced" parts used. Unfortunately a lot of buyers of new Scamps do so sight -unseen and wind up disappointed when the Beer price didn't yield Champaign quality.

But issues like loose stabilizer jacks & window cranks etc. shouldn't be a problem and I see that as a very valid complaint. I am a little puzzled about the table comment, can you tell us more about what happened.
And BTW: A "Little Moisture" is never a good thing inside a trailer....

Again, please give us more details and make a phone call to Scamp.....



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Old 08-14-2013, 06:10 AM   #12
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Name: Ed
Trailer: 1982 Fiber Stream and 2002 Casita Freedom Deluxe,The driveway is a Dark & Lonely Place now!
Missouri
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I am with Bob here.
There is no excuse for the QC problems in a brand new trailer,is there?

My favorite example of this was Dennis's trailer that had the water system not even installed so upon connection for the 1st time his new trailer flooded on him!
They did make it right in the end and that one was a glaring example for sure but why is the lack of QC so evident in big and small ways?

Things will always happen and at any point in the ownership of the rigs but it is no mystery and should hardly be met with resistance from a manufacturer when it is often on them and a little more effort might have prevented the problem.

Blake I also agree that Scamp is a little challenged with Electronic communications which is sad as I like having a record of the conversations sometimes but it is what it is and a phone call should be more effective with them from my experience.

I have often had Kent answer the phone himself and though he does not always jump on my idea of a solution the buck will usually stop with him.

I also like the idea of a Yellow Scamp!

Good Luck
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:25 AM   #13
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Name: Blake
Trailer: 13' scamp
Kansas
Posts: 5
I'll give them another call. Thanks for all of your feedback
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:56 AM   #14
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Trailer: Trillium 2010
Vermont
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I know where your at. I wanted to paint the word lemon on the bumper of my Trillium but Maggie nixed the idea . It took a while but I got things right and learned a lot as well. If it's something Scamp made, they'll fix it or cover the repair at a local shop.. The trailer Ed mentioned had other issues and Scamp ending up replacing it. I saw the replacement. I looked good to me.

It's important to remember that many of the components are not made by the trailer manufacturer and that much of the RV stuff they use is of poor quality to begin with. I recently replaced the broken chrome plated plastic faucet that came with my trailer with an all metal one I found on Amazon. Much better than the original and cheaper too.

Finally, solving these little bumps in the road is what this forum is about. Keep us updated. Raz
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Old 08-14-2013, 09:30 AM   #15
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hman66 View Post
Roger...what's your experience on the sewer hose tube in the front. My 13 ft is being built soon and they say they will only mount it on the front above the battery. Donna D has been a good source of info and she stated to not have them drill holes in the trailer and mount it else ware. My question is where? They said it would not fit under the tongue, nor the back bumper...I did get the bike hitch. Also, they said it will hold a 20ft hose but I believe I only get a 10ft one. Is this long enough? Will I need any kind of coupler when I actually use it? Thanks...H
I have a 1977 Scamp - no bathroom or holding tank. I would defer to Donna D on good vs bad locations and just add any hole can leak, and when going down the road the front of trailer is running into the rain at 55 mph so probably not ideal place to drill holes for mounting tube. Appearance might also be a factor for some.

I would post the question of "Where should I mount the stinky slinky tube" and see where people have put them.

On the hose length, I have in the past had a self contained RV and 10 ft is pretty short. You might want to go with something like 15 ft, packing a 20 ft hose into a tube just big enough for 20 ft might be a little tight. 10 ft would mean needing to get pretty close to the dump drain.

Yes there is a coupler on the hose at one end and a ring at the other. Since this seems new to you I'l outline the basics.

You place the coupler on one end of the hose over the drain tube on your trailer holding tank, it twist locks on. The end of the hose with the ring or plug end you place in the campground sewer dump pipe. Then you pull a handle on your sewage tank that opens a valve and allows the sewage to flow through the hose and down into the campground sewer pipe.

You then typically run some water through the toilet to rinse the tank down the pipe. Push handle to close valve, disconnect hose and put it on the gray water tank to repeat the process. You do the toilet holding tank (black water) first, and the sink shower (grey water) second so that draining the second tank rinses the sewage out of the hose.

There is typically a rinse hose to flush out your hose before putting it away. Rubber gloves and hand sanitizer are your friends for this job and I'm pretty sure you understand why it's called a stinky slinky.

It would be really good to get someone to show you how the first time or two. It's not hard but it helps to have some experienced support.
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Old 08-14-2013, 02:12 PM   #16
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Name: Adrian
Trailer: Lance 1985~'Casita de Campo' ~23' 4"~Dinette Slide Previously: Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette, Front Bath
New Mexico
Posts: 1,185
Additional Comments

I believe we all expect a new unit would come without defects, but mishaps happen. I've often heard not to buy an auto made on a Friday or on a Monday. Friday, workers are thinking of leaving for weekend, Monday, workers are tired or hungover from the weekend. Not sure if they have a quality control inspections or not. Ours had a lot of 'sawdust' wood & fiberglass still in places in ours. Ours of course was made before the Big Fire. New place to work in now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adrian W View Post
Wow! We have a 2005 16' Side Dinette & front bath/shower. Got it new in 2005.

Not had those problems. But no crank out windows on ours, different fridge but never problem with the latch (that would be from the manufacturer of the fridge), if the rear stabilizer fell off, I believe they are bolted on. Possible someone didn't tighten it on well enough. Some of the axels were welded on upside down at one time. Things can be done wrong. If the stabilizer didn't fall off, perhaps it failed to work smoothly. They are a simple design & at times can be a little tricky to get to work easily. We had similar ones on a Komfort Lite TT. Not as friendly as a scissor type. I have scissor type on the front of ours. Thinking of replacing the back ones with scissor as well.

We had a DC wire crimped where it entered the Scamp from the battery. I was able to find it & mend it. Started blowing fuses. Campground host suggested to check where it entered the body of the Scamp.

Dinette table in back has always been a bed, never noticed it swelling. The side dinette table has never swollen any with moisture. Swelling table top, one would think would take more than a little moisture in the cabin. I have read of others replacing the table top with solid wood. Could have gotten a faulty top. Something to ask about a replacement.

Never had any complaint about the cabinet doors. Ours are some kind of composite wood, but not cardboard. Much like many of the other makes of stick built RVs. But have had them to open on rough roads. Often because I have too much stuff in the cabinets. We bungee them together through the pulls to keep them closed. Would have liked them to be fiberglass. We painted the inside of the shower door just to keep it more free from water effects when showering. It had never began to swell or deteriorate in anyway. Just wanted to keep moisture from the shower off of it as much as possible.

We chose the green material because it seemed thicker than the other materials in 2005 for the seat & back cushions.. Still holding up, but just the side dinette seats get used. Looks almost new still.

We'd ordered ours sight unseen (never been in a Scamp). But did go by the factory before it was made.

But my son picked it up for us & brought it down to Loveland, CO where we meet them.

If wanting wood cabinet doors (& cabinets) one would have to order the Deluxe with wood interiors.

Ours hasn't been perfect, but no great disappointment. I would have liked a wider rear bed & at least 14" tires & wheels...15" would be even better.

Haven't broken any rivets, but have had a couple leak when rains hard. Rear Side Window by bed leaked once as well. Had to seal them & tighten screws around the window.

Have had trouble with leaking with the TV antennae a few times. I'd never order one again.

A major frustration we have had was with the inverter (or is it called a converter? Always confuse the two). One went out, we bough a new one (same kind from the supplier). It broke, ordered a motherboard to fix it. Scamp is now using a different inverter I believe. I epoxied the nuts onto the small screws which came loose on the last one. So far so good. But this happen in 2007 & 2008. Still pretty new.

But other RVs (TT & MH) have had problems as well in the past we have owned.

Hope you get the defects worked out. And be able to Enjoy your Rig.

Give them a call, have a list of what has gone wrong with details of what has happened. Photos would be good. Keep calm. Document as much as you can with photos, keep a detailed log of what has not worked or has broken.

If still too frustrating, I'm sure you will be able to sell it for what you have paid, maybe a little extra. Lot of people want one.

Good Luck with solving the frustration.

Post Edit: I have seen others get or make new doors for the cabinets.

Hman: haven't had any problems with the sewer holder on front & still using the original hose. But have a better one since 2006. Can't remember if I bought the connections or if they came with them. It is the 10' one. But never have used it in a campground with sewer hookup. One must get close to the sewer to use it.

With Scamp's the grey water drain is in back & the black water drain is in front. I added a sewer cap on the grey water drain with a garden hose fitting so a hose can be use to drain it without having to use the large according sewer hose. I have used the 'grey' garden hose to drain the grey tank into sewer hookups in campgrounds.

Could the holder be placed on top of the tongue? Or on top of the bumper? Seem it would on the 16'.
Not sure of how much lower a 13' is than a 16', but we have a pair of stabilizer 'jacks' hanging on below the tongue on ours. I also have a spare tired attached on & below the tongue. Seems one could be attached to the front of the back bumper as well.

Photo was taken before the spare tire was added.

Haven't tried, but perhaps a 20' slinky hose would fit into the standard holder. But it isn't real long. One could request to have them leave it off & find a spot for it once you have it. One can fabricate a holder out of PVC pipe to work as well if not better.

Not sure if rain would be hitting directly onto the one in front, the tow vehicle will block much of the direct wind and/or rain from it.

For the fridge latch, you might want to call or email the manufacturer & explain what happened. Photo would be good.

Much like a boat, which is a hole in the water into which one throws money, a RV is a hole into which one keeps throwing in money. But they are so much fun!

I would believe there are a few Airstream TTs owners who have gotten a unit with a few problems to be worked out. Even a few which appeared to be a LEMON.

Might give them a call & also ask them if you could send some photos via email to them. To make sure someone is checking it. However, I sent an inquiry via the email on the site about the type of insulation they use. The owner answered back quickly.

Termination Cap with Hose Connector a must have. IMHO! Got ours at Walmart. If you do not have toilet, therefore no black tank to empty, one would not need a slinky hose at all, just use the hose connector to drain the grey tank. I do not have termination cap with a hose connector on the black tank sewer outlet. Of course it has the termination cap which came with the Scamp.
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Old 08-14-2013, 02:33 PM   #17
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Trailer: Li'l Hauley
Oklahoma
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Sometimes, a large number of QC issues can be symptomatic of a morale problem among the workers. They could be unhappy with their pay or with management. Sloppy work is a way of pushing back somewhat passively against whatever's bothering them. I don't know if Scamp has such a problem, but it's a possibility.

Centuries ago, the European mine workers were kept happy by feeding them a steady stream of free beer (in fact, that is about all they were fed, but beer was more full-bodied and nourishing back then). I wonder how that would work out nowadays?
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:30 PM   #18
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Name: Ken
Trailer: 2015 Scamp 16' deluxe 2008 FJ Cruiser
Pennsylvania
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We had one issue with our new 16. The shower drain fell off and you could see the ground thru the drain hole. The chrome floor drain threads were short because the floor was thick. the white plastic drain under the floor had no treads in a high collar that would not reach the threads. I ground off the collar all is well. I do not know how it made it 1050 miles home with out falling off. I also asked for no decals and not to mount the worthless 10ft hose holder. I mounted a 20ft hose holder under the back end myself. One more thing Scamp mounted the thermostat on the side of the stove area where when the bed is made up your feet will hit it and be covered by the blankets. I moved it. Oh we have a sd fb deluxe 16ft.
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Old 08-14-2013, 05:17 PM   #19
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Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 77 Scamp 13
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When you consider that most RV's have essentially all the features of a house, made out of the lighter material and then driven down the road to be bounced around..... Yet typically last for many years.

While an RV might have the features of a house those features often have RV specific quirks. After awhile dealing with them becomes routine, sometimes not until one has a problem or mishap.

For example always, every single time that one uses the fridge making sure the latch is in the open position, forgetting and pulling on the door, or closing the door on it even once will do some damage. It's only as heavy duty as it has to be to do it's job.

Same with things such as window latches and other hardware and things such as plumbing fixtures. They are lighter weight and typically lighter duty than what is found in a home.

Exposing the table to even a small amount of moisture over a period long enough for the wood to soak it up will make it swell. Can be something as simple as leaving a glass of iced beverage to melt where the condensation can get to the edge of the wood. Or a window open a crack when it rains and having water collect between table and wall so that wiping table still leaves water to be soaked up from that gap.

Even the delux wood cabinet doors are probably lighter weight than the same style installed in a house, as are the hinges which means they can not take as much strain.

RV is simply not the same as a house designed to be lived in 365 days a year for decades. Treating it as one will lead to complications. I can provide two examples.

Years ago my sister when washing dishes used to leave the faucet on the entire time to rinse each dish. Same as she would at home. Percieved as water tank being "too small" and the water pump failing "too soon".

A camper with a site rented for the season was having problems with the black water tank, it would not drain and the smell was pretty bad. Since they had sewer hookup they left the trailer hooked up AND the valve always open to drain. With no liquid in tank solid waste just piled up till it blocked the tank. Reasonable to think "hook up to sewer" like at home.

That is not to say that workers don't make mistakes. Forget to tighten bolts or properly assemble shower drains. The ability and willingness of the manufacturer to work to resolve problems and the purchaser to communicate effectively and reasonably with the manufacturer are the keys to positive outcomes.

OP has indicated they will be calling Scamp and I hope they will post how things are resolved. And go on to enjoy many happy years once things are worked out.
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:01 PM   #20
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Name: Ken
Trailer: 2015 Scamp 16' deluxe 2008 FJ Cruiser
Pennsylvania
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The shower drain was the problem on mine. It was assembled correct they just overlooked the fact the floor thickness. It was held on by one thread. Would not go any tighter. It was a fail waiting to happen. No threads on the first 1/4" of the fitting that screws to the floor drain. I worked in a machine shop this would not have made it past the drawings. The thermostat placement what were they thinking. Better yet not thinking? I can fix these things I have built two teardrops and restored a 1976 Scotty. Should I have to its brand new! Do not get me wrong I love it but?
Ken
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