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Old 04-03-2016, 07:19 PM   #1
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What are these and why does everything still work??

I took the cover off the converter and these 2 black things about the size of C batteries were laying in the converter. Its obvious they broke off the board from vibration or whatever.

So my question is what are they, what do they do, and why does everything still work fine??

Thanks again!!!
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Old 04-03-2016, 07:40 PM   #2
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They are capacitors. They're used to filter the power.


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Old 04-03-2016, 08:00 PM   #3
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Why does everything still work without them? Should I replace my converter? I do NOT use the converter to charge the battery - but I do use it for running everything on shore power.

Thanks!
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Old 04-03-2016, 08:13 PM   #4
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Without looking at your converter, there are a couple possibilities. Most likely those are output filter capacitors. They're wired in parallel across the output. Your unit will still work but you're have more noise in the system. Nothing to worry about if you're running lights and inductive loads like a water heater but you may have issues with components needing highly regulated power like some electronics.
They may also be input line filters. Those type protect your system from a line spike. Should be fine on normal shore power but I caution against running your converter off a generator.
Finally, they may be ground filters. Those are nice to haves and aren't really necessary.
My concern would be they didn't break clean and you have broken pieces of capacitor legs floating around your converter. If that happens they could short something and totally fry the unit.
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Old 04-03-2016, 08:19 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Keaner View Post
Without looking at your converter, there are a couple possibilities. Most likely those are output filter capacitors. They're wired in parallel across the output. Your unit will still work but you're have more noise in the system. Nothing to worry about if you're running lights and inductive loads like a water heater but you may have issues with components needing highly regulated power like some electronics.
They may also be input line filters. Those type protect your system from a line spike. Should be fine on normal shore power but I caution against running your converter off a generator.
Finally, they may be ground filters. Those are nice to haves and aren't really necessary.
My concern would be they didn't break clean and you have broken pieces of capacitor legs floating around your converter. If that happens they could short something and totally fry the unit.
Thanks!! My assumption is the fridge could be one of those delicate things! I sure dont want to hurt it. Maybe best to just change the converter out. I was just confused everything worked! Your explanation makes sense. Thanks!!
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Old 04-03-2016, 08:30 PM   #6
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There are lots of converters available on Amazon, I picked a 30amp unit up for $30.00.
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Old 04-03-2016, 08:35 PM   #7
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I would like to get a direct bolt in replacement - just hook up the 4 wires and go! I don't need it for battery charging - only power. Looks like I have research to do!
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Old 04-03-2016, 08:46 PM   #8
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Not sure a cheap China converter would be better than what you have. I would suggest a progressive industries unit which are very well made.


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Old 04-03-2016, 08:46 PM   #9
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Joe, I'm not familiar with the 2005 Casita electrical components. Are the 110vac circuit breakers, 12vdc fuses, and 110vac-to-12vdc converter all located in the same box? If so, then you are looking for more than a converter. What's the brand and model of your box?
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Old 04-03-2016, 09:52 PM   #10
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Thanks!! My assumption is the fridge could be one of those delicate things! I sure dont want to hurt it. Maybe best to just change the converter out. I was just confused everything worked! Your explanation makes sense. Thanks!!
There are folks out there that still can find and install components like that. Do you have any ham radio friends? I have ham friends that would make quick work of that. (Also, our sewing machine repair guy).

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Old 04-03-2016, 09:57 PM   #11
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I don't recommend using the Casita without them. They are electrolytic capacitors and are usually used to filter the DC after it's been converted from the AC. They contain a fluid in them that can dry out and short it out, or if they receive a heavy spike it will also damage them. The main problem is that your refrigerator's control board is powered by DC and if the DC is not filtered it can cause problems. The propane detector is also powered by DC. The battery acts like a filter capacitor too, but if they included the capacitors that fell out they are needed for a reason.
I would suggest you first take a picture of the converter. Then buy a roll of masking tape, put the tape on the wires like little flags and label them. Then remove the converter board.
Take the original capacitors to any electronics parts store or TV shop and buy new ones. Then check to see if there's are any electronics schools in your area and ask if they will solder them in for you. You can also take them to any TV shop and they'll put them in for you. It's a 30 second job. The converter is still good, just replace the capacitors.
I would also check the fuses, because if the capacitors caused a short, the fuse should have gone out. There might be a fuse with a larger amperage rating then what it should have. I'll be around if you have any other questions.
Happy Camping,
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:21 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Keaner View Post
...Nothing to worry about if you're running lights and inductive loads like a water heater but ...
It doesn't alter your advice one bit and may be a typo anyhow but for others reading through this topic just an observation, the water heater element is a resistive load. I'm probably showing my age but the water heater element is not unlike those little coffee cup immersion water heaters one would dip into a coffee cup to boil the water for coffee/tea. Resistive. (Still available it seems. An economical option for instant coffee or cup-of-soups.)

Motors and such are often inductive. Large induction motors often (and/or always?) need a capacitor.


There are inductive heaters, often used in heat treating metals and such, but the water heater element is resistive.
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:27 AM   #13
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I would just replace them. They appear to be 200 volt, 1200 micro-farad electrolytic capacitors. I can't tell if they are axial or radial lead from the picture but here a couple that should work (compare the terminals to the one's you have):

New Cornell Dubilier SLP122M200E4P3 Snap I Capacitor Alum Elec 1200uF 200V 20 | eBay

It should be a fairly easy repair but remember they are polarized. The board should be marked as to which are the negative and/or positive connection points. I would also secure them to the board with a cable tie or silicon adhesive to prevent this from happening again.

Best of luck!
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:34 AM   #14
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This is a dumb question I'm sure - but why do I even need a converter? Since I am charging my AGM with an external battery charger only - do I need the converter?

When on shorepower, I am on AC, and my DC stuff could run off the battery while the external charger keeps the battery charged. When boondocking, I'm 12v anyway.

I do understand the 12v wont work if my battery is turned off

So with an external charger - what is the advantage of even having a converter? Do I need it?
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:01 AM   #15
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I like MarkyVasquez' comment "if they included the capacitors that fell out they are needed for a reason." Manufacturer's generally don't add 'extra stuff' to a product and increase the cost unless there is a benefit. In this case the benefit is the filtering and the associated protection of the powered devices.

Thinking about your last post, the converter supplies power which does not have to come from (drain) your battery. It either eliminates or reduces the drain depending on the total load and the converter's capacity. If the total load exceeds the converter's capacity, the battery supplies the portion of the load that exceeds the charger's capacity.

So, using a separate dedicated charger, it seems that you would be trading the converter's capacity for the capacity of the charger. One may be higher than the other.

That said, I'll yield the floor to someone who knows more about this.
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Old 04-04-2016, 10:47 AM   #16
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It will be interesting to see others remarks. The more I ponder this - the better of an idea it sounds. I mean, you have to be on shore power anyway for a converter to work. So the only things that will be using 12v are lights (all LED), possibly fridge control panel, ceiling vent fan (night time only), possible water pump for very short periods of time if no city water. We heat with the roof heat strip or a cube heater, so we dont use the furnace fan at all. While these 12v things are on, the charger will be doing its thing. I cant imaging the battery charger not keeping up with this. And if your not on shore power - the converter is useless. So why not just keep it simple - ditch the converter all together???

The more I think about it - this also reduces the risk of spikes or issues in the 12V from a bad converter (like one with broken off capacitors). The battery will filter all the 12V. This setup seems very simple. I cant believe folks don't do this more offer vs messing with a converter. If the charger can keep up - your golden. The only other negative is you must have a battery installed for 12V to work, but no worries as I always have a battery installed.

What am I missing?
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Old 04-04-2016, 11:03 AM   #17
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"It will be interesting to see others remarks."

Plus one here.

It seems that the fuse and breaker panel is semi-integral to the converter on my 2012 Casita. So, there is the question of how you would maintain your circuit protection.

I have read the praises of converting the Parallax converter to a Progressive Dynamics unit. I believe this change left the factory fuses and circuit breakers in service, but it has been some time since I looked at how the various parts are situated.

http://www.progressivedyn.com/pdfs/4...tion_guide.pdf

So, that's a $200 plus labor option. I'm hoping for a simple & cheap approach to pan out...
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Old 04-04-2016, 11:35 AM   #18
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"It will be interesting to see others remarks." It seems that the fuse and breaker panel is semi-integral to the converter on my 2012 Casita. So, there is the question of how you would maintain your circuit protection.
This all started yesterday as I installed my battery charger and noticed the damaged converter. While doing that, I could not get back behind the bench to access a lot of the wiring runs for doing a tidy job and zip-tying everything factory fresh. Instead of removing the entire bench fiberglass, it looked like I could remove the converter and then reach in thru the hole once the converter was removed. That worked great.

As it turns out, my converter has only 4 wires to it total. 2 (110v +/-) wires coming from the 110v circuit breaker to power the converter. And 2 (12v +/-) going from the converter to power the 12v fuse panel. Thats it!!! Remove those 4 wires, pull the converter, and your done. All the 110v breakers and 12v fuses will still function as should.

The whole reason for all this is I dont want to use the converter to charge my battery period. I installed a group 31 AGM, and the requires a different charger made for AGM (hence the installation of the battery charger). So if Im not going to use a converter to charge the battery, why use it at all, is my thoughts.
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Old 04-04-2016, 12:31 PM   #19
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Yes, I recall a warning in regard to the incompatibility of the Parallax and AGM batteries.

I had a Progressive Dynamics charger and distribution panel in my teardrop trailer with an AGM battery and they seemed to work and play well together. Hence, I had read up on this previously, and chewed my lip quite a bit over the $200 ante for the Progressive Dynamics. So, no action to date.

I am interested in the charger - what did you install Joe?

And, Group 31. Hmmm. Maybe more bigger, more better? I was just reviewing battery sizes yesterday and was wondering if I might fit a bit more than the current Group 27 with 95AH.
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Old 04-04-2016, 01:20 PM   #20
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I am interested in the charger - what did you install Joe?

And, Group 31. Hmmm. Maybe more bigger, more better? I was just reviewing battery sizes yesterday and was wondering if I might fit a bit more than the current Group 27 with 95AH.
I installed a charger called a CTEK 4.3MUS. It is a smart charger and works on AGM in the correct setting. Its compact and a quality unit. I actually had it on an old car which had an Optima in it, but I sold the car so I thought - hey, lets put this in the Casita.

CTEK Multi US 4.3 - CTEK Battery ChargersCTEK Battery Chargers

As for the battery, I bought a Duracell group 31 from Sams and it "barely" fit into the compartment - but it did fit!! Yea - just for the more bigger more better factor! I had to mount the hold in bracket a little closer to the door, but that's it. Its a heavy sucker tho!!

Duracell® AGM Deep Cycle Marine and RV Battery - Group Size 31 - Sam's Club
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