Which fiberglass campers are 7' wide and narrow track?

[Donna D.]

IF you're interested in a molded fiberglass cargo trailer, check out HiPoint (or Hi-Point). They're popular with the motorcycle group.

[rebar]

I keep finding myself back here because most fiberglass camper trailers are 7' wide and narrow track. And that happy camper has got to be the cutest toyhauler out there, but not 30k cute..

Yes I'm a member of most of the cargo trailer groups and cant wait to get started on my build.

Iv learned featherlite will make me a 7x16 7k# single axle narrow track enclosed with rv window door etc etc for around $12-13k. Then another $7k maybe for the interior and I would have exactly what I want.

My only reservations are that I'm not setup or experienced at aluminum welding. But if I have the factory install the windows, the only other thing might be a custom suspension or at least longer leaf springs.. But there's always after thoughts.

No other trailer manufacturers will build me a 7x16 single axle narrow track, and Iv never seen one even.. Everyone else would be a 7x14

[neparker]

Originally Posted by Mikmay

The HC1 has a 7 ft wide bed ,a rear cargo door and has a frame rated to hold 3500 lbs .

And a very flexible interior configuration. Was wondering about the frame rating.

[Raspy]

Rebar,

You may find that a single axle 16' trailer is not very practical. Single axle trailers scrape their rear bumper and their front jacks much easier than tandems and their weigh carrying capacity is much less. Plus, weight can be farther from the axle which stresses the skin of the trailer more. If you do get a single, you'll probably need a 6,000 lb axle and heavy duty truck tires.

Not sure why you'd need to weld aluminum to install windows.

[rebar]

Originally Posted by Raspy

Rebar,

You may find that a single axle 16' trailer is not very practical. Single axle trailers scrape their rear bumper and their front jacks much easier than tandems and their weigh carrying capacity is much less. Plus, weight can be farther from the axle which stresses the skin of the trailer more. If you do get a single, you'll probably need a 6,000 lb axle and heavy duty truck tires.

Not sure why you'd need to weld aluminum to install windows.

Dual axles run over a uneven surface is asking for a bent axle, because you will load one axle with your entire weight eventually. I will be traveling over ruts and rocks so I'm trying to order a single 7k# axle with 8x6.5" so that I can run the same wheels as on my full size truck. I'm more concerned with the tire rating than with a single axle 7x16 configuration and trust featherlite would build me a safe trailer.. Yes the longer a trailer the easier to bottom out but single to dual on the same length would be negligible. The palomini is very close to the configuration I want. Single 17' enclosed.


Here's a high end Australian Matrix off road 16' single axle narrow track.

Installing a window the correct way requires welded headers imo.

[John in Santa Cruz]

most fiberglass trailers have about 1000 lbs of payload capacity give or take, and that includes water/holding tank loads... putting 800 lbs of dirt bikes in there, fergit it.

you are, indeed, looking for a small 'toy box' camper. nothing else has that rear ramp. on the casitas, scamps, the bed is across the back of the trailer... on my escape 21, the dinette is back there.

[Raspy]

Originally Posted by rebar

Dual axles run over a uneven surface is asking for a bent axle, because you will load one axle with your entire weight eventually. I will be traveling over ruts and rocks so I'm trying to order a single 7k# axle with 8x6.5" so that I can run the same wheels as on my full size truck.

Tandem axles with equalizers are designed to allow the wheels to individually step over bumps up to about 6" without loading one wheel unfairly. They share the loads over rough surfaces, not load one axle over bumps (I take my tandem axle Oliver over the roughest trails my Ram will pull it through and have experience with this). Tandem setups can also be built with 6,000 lb axles that will not break and have 12" brakes if you are worried or have a very heavy load (my oliver weighs 5,600 lbs).

Those Aussy trailers are great, but I've never seen any conventional box trailers with the rise behind the axle for ground clearance or with that nice swingarm suspension. Standard single axle setups are either leaf spring or torsion, and neither one has the travel or the ride of a long travel swing arm. Just be sure what you are actually looking at and expecting a trailer manufacturer to build. With conventional leaf srpings or even torsion axles, single axles ride much rougher on uneven surfaces, which increases stress throughout the trailer.

If you want to use the same wheels as your truck, which is a great idea, you have to adjust the width of the axle to allow for your truck wheel offset. Be sure to tell the manufacturer your wheel specs as conventional trailer wheels are zero offset. They will also have to do a custom wheel opening. You'll also probably need at least 6,000 lb axles in order to get the eight bolt pattern, as you have mentioned. I've looked into this before and was told that they would not put 8 bolt hubs on a lighter axle. You may have to get some special machining done.

I have two aluminum skinned box trailers and a box truck. They all have galvanized framing that supports the aluminum skin. The skin is a stressed member. In either case, cutting in windows does not require aluminum welding and trying to weld the aluminum skin would be a problem. The sidewall framing can be altered in a number or ways and still be strong, then a plywood inner skin screwed on for much more rigidity. Again, be sure you are familiar with the design used by your manufacturer before deciding it must be done a certain way.

Sounds like a nice project.

[rebar]

Originally Posted by Raspy

Tandem axles with equalizers are designed to allow the wheels to individually step over bumps up to about 6" without loading one wheel unfairly. They share the loads over rough surfaces, not load one axle over bumps (I take my tandem axle Oliver over the roughest trails my Ram will pull it through and have experience with this). Tandem setups can also be built with 6,000 lb axles that will not break and have 12" brakes if you are worried or have a very heavy load (my oliver weighs 5,600 lbs).

If you want to use the same wheels as your truck, which is a great idea, you have to adjust the width of the axle to allow for your truck wheel offset. Be sure to tell the manufacturer your wheel specs as conventional trailer wheels are zero offset. They will also have to do a custom wheel opening. You'll also probably need at least 6,000 lb axles in order to get the eight bolt pattern, as you have mentioned. I've looked into this before and was told that they would not put 8 bolt hubs on a lighter axle. You may have to get some special machining done.

I have two aluminum skinned box trailers and a box truck. They all have galvanized framing that supports the aluminum skin. The skin is a stressed member. In either case, cutting in windows does not require aluminum welding and trying to weld the aluminum skin would be a problem. The sidewall framing can be altered in a number or ways and still be strong, then a plywood inner skin screwed on for much more rigidity. Again, be sure you are familiar with the design used by your manufacturer before deciding it must be done a certain way.

Sounds like a nice project.

Thanks Raspy. Ive read about equalizers but I'm skeptical that they can keep equal loads on both axles through a 6" rut. Plus a 6" rut isn't very deep or uncommon in colorado. On the other hand if the factory would install two 7000# axles they would survive regardless, and then remove a few leafs to tame the stiff suspension? Do you have more details or pictures of the equalization system on your oliver?

Independent suspension on a single axle trailer is a waste imo. The hitch allows the trailer to articulate and you get allot more trailer sway and lean without the side to side load sharing characteristics of a straight axle. If I built a custom suspension, it would be airbag over a straight axle on a free moving 3 link (bushings on the trailing links and a wishbone upper to eliminate the panhard) and deal with body sway via a external sway bar. Or possibly a de-leafed single leaf spring each side to located the axle with airbags.

As far as the offset.. I'm still trying to bribe the factory into installing a heavier axle with 8x6.5" hubs. If I can do that, I will drop the offset bomb, but I kind of doubt they would accept wheels supplied by me for a new trailer build.. We will see. But I figure a spacer/adapters would correct the offset and lug pattern when they say they will only install 5 lug hubs.

1997 3/4 ton cummins truck wheels..

Lug Pattern - 8 on 6.5", 9/16" bolt
Rim Size - 16x6.5"
Backspace - 4.75"

So that would equal a 1 3/4" or 44mm positive offset so a 2" spacer would work because it gets the wheel back close to 0 offset.

If the trailer came with 16" rims, the 32" outside diameter tires I run on the truck will fit the trailer wheel wells, I assume.

As far as the window headers, they need to be welded in regardless if steel or aluminum, not the skin. I was simply stating I'm not comfortable welding aluminum at the moment if I buy the featherlite and will have the factory install the windows. If in the mean while I find a used narrow track built in steel, I would feel comfortable welding in steel window headers and anything else. Not so much with a new aluminum featherlite. But how much is a used narrow track worth when I need both axles replaced and the barn doors replaced with a ramp? That would add at least another $5-6k to the project Im guessing, turning my cheap $3k used trailer into a old expensive used trailer very quickly.

[Ed Harris]

Originally Posted by rebar

As far as the window headers, they need to be welded in regardless if steel or aluminum, not the skin. I was simply stating I'm not comfortable welding aluminum at the moment IF I buy the featherlite and should have the factory install the windows. If I find a used narrow track built in steel, I would feel comfortable welding in steel window headers and anything else. Not so much with a new aluminum featherlite.

The Featherlite framing is also Aluminum which is the thing you never mentioned while trying to explain this comment in the end.

I agree that windows would be better off with headers in metal and the factory can do it well and cheaper than I could as well.
On the other hand I have found windows that will fit right between the studs in my Featherlite that I plan to install with Wooden Headers anyway as I can easily do so and being less than 15" wide I am pretty satisfied that they will be strong and flex little too.

There are no FGRV in the end though that even remotely meet your needs in my opinion.

[ShelbyM]

Originally Posted by Ed Harris

There are no FGRV in the end though that even remotely meet your needs in my opinion.

Yep, it's a wrap....

[rebar]

Originally Posted by ShelbyM

Yep, it's a wrap....

Nope. You guys forgot one.. Looks like a rare steal
Yukon Delta




https://madison.craigslist.org/tro/d...652750041.html

[Ed Harris]

Originally Posted by rebar

Thanks Raspy. Ive read about equalizers but I'm skeptical that they can keep equal loads on both axles through a 6" rut. Plus a 6" rut isn't very deep or uncommon in colorado. On the other hand if the factory would install two 7000# axles they would survive regardless, and then remove a few leafs to tame the stiff suspension? Do you have more details or pictures of the equalization system on your oliver?

Independent suspension on a single axle trailer is a waste imo. The hitch allows the trailer to articulate and you get allot more trailer sway and lean without the side to side load sharing characteristics of a straight axle. If I built a custom suspension, it would be airbag over a straight axle on a free moving 3 link (bushings on the trailing links and a wishbone upper to eliminate the panhard) and deal with body sway via a external sway bar. Or possibly a de-leafed single leaf spring each side to located the axle with airbags.

As far as the offset.. I'm still trying to bribe the factory into installing a heavier axle with 8x6.5" hubs. If I can do that, I will drop the offset bomb, but I kind of doubt they would accept wheels supplied by me for a new trailer build.. We will see. But I figure a spacer/adapters would correct the offset and lug pattern when they say they will only install 5 lug hubs.

1997 3/4 ton cummins truck wheels..

Lug Pattern - 8 on 6.5", 9/16" bolt
Rim Size - 16x6.5"
Backspace - 4.75"

So that would equal a 1 3/4" or 44mm positive offset so a 2" spacer would work because it gets the wheel back close to 0 offset.

If the trailer came with 16" rims, the 32" outside diameter tires I run on the truck will fit the trailer wheel wells, I assume.

As far as the window headers, they need to be welded in regardless if steel or aluminum, not the skin. I was simply stating I'm not comfortable welding aluminum at the moment if I buy the featherlite and will have the factory install the windows. If in the mean while I find a used narrow track built in steel, I would feel comfortable welding in steel window headers and anything else. Not so much with a new aluminum featherlite. But how much is a used narrow track worth when I need both axles replaced and the barn doors replaced with a ramp? That would add at least another $5-6k to the project Im guessing, turning my cheap $3k used trailer into a old expensive used trailer very quickly.

Originally Posted by rebar

Nope. You guys forgot one.. Looks like a rare steal
Yukon Delta




https://madison.craigslist.org/tro/d...652750041.html

No one forgot anything?

This is a site for Fiberglass RVs and not Bike Trailers and we have mostly claimed no real intimate knowledge of the Bike Trailers,overlanding or off-roading with trailers at all.

This one looks interesting for you but seems much too small & Light Duty for what you say are your needs.

I hope it works for you if you decide to try it.

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by rebar

Hello everyone.

Iv been searching for a rare narrow track enclosed trailer to convert to a overland trailer and not having much luck. Narrow track means 7' wide with wheels under in wheel wells instead of on the outside in fenders. Which keeps the trailer no wider than a full size truck.


Does anyone know which fiberglass campers fall into this category?

Thanks!

I just realized there is a narrow track fiberglass trailer with a nearly full rear opening hatch that is available as an overland type of model with an elevated frame and 14" inch tires on it. They used to offer 15" tires so you could talk them them about that possiblity. That is the Happier Camper. You can customize what you want in the way of interior fittings. The Samuel Adams beer company has a contest on where they are giving away 3 of them that the winners get to specify the options on but you only have a couple of days left to enter it. The drawing for the winner is August 2nd.

https://happiercamper.com/wp-content...r-brochure.pdf

[Raspy]

KC,

Thanks for the heads up on the Happier Camper sweepstakes.

[k corbin]

Originally Posted by rebar

Thanks Raspy. Ive read about equalizers but I'm skeptical that they can keep equal loads on both axles through a 6" rut. Plus a 6" rut isn't very deep or uncommon in colorado. On the other hand if the factory would install two 7000# axles they would survive regardless, and then remove a few leafs to tame the stiff suspension? Do you have more details or pictures of the equalization system on your oliver?

Independent suspension on a single axle trailer is a waste imo. The hitch allows the trailer to articulate and you get allot more trailer sway and lean without the side to side load sharing characteristics of a straight axle. If I built a custom suspension, it would be airbag over a straight axle on a free moving 3 link (bushings on the trailing links and a wishbone upper to eliminate the panhard) and deal with body sway via a external sway bar. Or possibly a de-leafed single leaf spring each side to located the axle with airbags.

As far as the offset.. I'm still trying to bribe the factory into installing a heavier axle with 8x6.5" hubs. If I can do that, I will drop the offset bomb, but I kind of doubt they would accept wheels supplied by me for a new trailer build.. We will see. But I figure a spacer/adapters would correct the offset and lug pattern when they say they will only install 5 lug hubs.

1997 3/4 ton cummins truck wheels..

Lug Pattern - 8 on 6.5", 9/16" bolt
Rim Size - 16x6.5"
Backspace - 4.75"

So that would equal a 1 3/4" or 44mm positive offset so a 2" spacer would work because it gets the wheel back close to 0 offset.

If the trailer came with 16" rims, the 32" outside diameter tires I run on the truck will fit the trailer wheel wells, I assume.

As far as the window headers, they need to be welded in regardless if steel or aluminum, not the skin. I was simply stating I'm not comfortable welding aluminum at the moment if I buy the featherlite and will have the factory install the windows. If in the mean while I find a used narrow track built in steel, I would feel comfortable welding in steel window headers and anything else. Not so much with a new aluminum featherlite. But how much is a used narrow track worth when I need both axles replaced and the barn doors replaced with a ramp? That would add at least another $5-6k to the project Im guessing, turning my cheap $3k used trailer into a old expensive used trailer very quickly.

You don't have to weld in the headers. There are a lot of very strong pull fasteners used in aircraft construction and for other situations as well. Just because you are not familiar with them and don't find them in the local hardware stores does not mean they don't exist. One brand keyword is "Hi-Lok".

[Raspy]

We're getting off track with the concept of "headers". This is not house construction where weight from above must be supported over a clear span and upper studs need a place to stand. On trailers, windows are often just holes in the skin. If it's done on a riveted aluminum box trailer with steel studs, and the window is big enough to require cutting a stud, then the "header is really a stiffener that simply keeps the wall from flexing by bridging the cut stud. It can be a small piece of stud material put in horizontally, above and below the window, and attached to the next studs with screws or rivets. It's just a stiffener, not a load bearing member. If the window locations and sizes are known in the beginning, a framed hole can be built before the skin goes on.

Look at how windows are installed in fiberglass trailers. Simply cut out a hole in a single wall thickness piece of fiberglass and install the window. The window simply sandwiches the fiberglass wall between two pieces of window frame. No "headers".

Sometimes it's too easy to overthink things that are very well proven in their design. Best thing might be to visit a dealer and have a look, or call the factory you plan to contract with.

[Spongelander]

I've seen shorter toy haulers, mostly older, mostly stick-and-tin. Not sure about the quality of this one, having read mixed reviews. I'm looking for a toy hauler for a friend, and surveying the market.

https://dunesport.com/12_foot_toy_hauler.php

[John in Santa Cruz]

Originally Posted by Spongelander

I've seen shorter toy haulers, mostly older, mostly stick-and-tin. Not sure about the quality of this one, having read mixed reviews. I'm looking for a toy hauler for a friend, and surveying the market.

https://dunesport.com/12_foot_toy_hauler.php

the problem with something that small is, you'll need to unload your toys to setup the bed(s) and/or dinette table. when traveling, I have been known to want to pull over in the middle of the day at a road side rest or scenic overlook, and hop in the trailer, use the head, fix lunch, take a nap, then motor on. I'm not sure I'd want to leave my dirt bikes or ATV or whatever outside at a roadside rest while taking a nap.

[Ed Harris]

Originally Posted by John in Santa Cruz

the problem with something that small is, you'll need to unload your toys to setup the bed(s) and/or dinette table. when traveling, I have been known to want to pull over in the middle of the day at a road side rest or scenic overlook, and hop in the trailer, use the head, fix lunch, take a nap, then motor on. I'm not sure I'd want to leave my dirt bikes or ATV or whatever outside at a roadside rest while taking a nap.

Not so sure this is the case really.

My 7'x10' is so much roomier inside than the Eggs that I have owned or seen that I could easily just climb aboard even with a few bikes in there and grab a nap, fix lunch and/ or use the facilities, if I had any of course.

I understand the appeal now of a Box on Wheels that is tough to really feel until you have tried it.

Just like the difference between the 16' & 17' Casita feeling so huge, the wide open luxury of a square space with tall ceiling all over is liberating and feels dramatic to me.

I am not ready to ditch my Egg at all but the difference in space is really amazing for me!

[John in Santa Cruz]

that dunesport Spongelander linked, the 'beds' are fold down sofabunks which have to be stowed in the vertical position to put a couple bikes on board.... and those same fold down bunks double as the dinette seats, with a removable table between them... if there's a dirt bike strapped down in there, you aren't getting that table up.